Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing: Environmental and Social Aspects of Textiles and Clothing Supply Chain PDF
Preview Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing: Environmental and Social Aspects of Textiles and Clothing Supply Chain
Textile Science and Clothing Technology Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu Editor Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing Environmental and Social Aspects of Textiles and Clothing Supply Chain Textile Science and Clothing Technology Series editor Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR For furthervolumes: http://www.springer.com/series/13111 Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu Editor Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing Environmental and Social Aspects of Textiles and Clothing Supply Chain 123 Editor SubramanianSenthilkannan Muthu GlobalSustainability Services SGSHong KongLimited Hong Kong Hong KongSAR ISSN 2197-9863 ISSN 2197-9871 (electronic) ISBN 978-981-287-109-1 ISBN 978-981-287-110-7 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-981-287-110-7 Springer SingaporeHeidelberg New YorkDordrecht London LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2014937689 (cid:2)SpringerScience+BusinessMediaSingapore2014 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsarereservedbythePublisher,whetherthewholeorpartof the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation,broadcasting,reproductiononmicrofilmsorinanyotherphysicalway,andtransmissionor informationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation,computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. 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While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication,neithertheauthorsnortheeditorsnorthepublishercanacceptanylegalresponsibilityfor anyerrorsoromissionsthatmaybemade.Thepublishermakesnowarranty,expressorimplied,with respecttothematerialcontainedherein. Printedonacid-freepaper SpringerispartofSpringerScience+BusinessMedia(www.springer.com) Preface Thisisthesecondvolumeofaroadmapseriesonsustainabletextilesandclothing. As discussed in Vol. 1, the textile and clothing supply chain represents a formi- dable threat to our living planet and the environmental footprint of this massive supplychainisofformidablesize.Everylifecycleofapieceofclothing,starting fromtherawmaterialstage,followedbythemanufacturingprocess,transportation and retailing, consumer use,and the disposal phase isresponsible for the creation ofvarious potential environmental threats. This isthe cruxofthe problemaround which this second volume revolves and it will address this problem in detail. Following the first volume, which dealt with the eco-friendly raw materials, technologies, and processing methods employed to produce a sustainable textile product,thissecondvolumeisintendedtodealwiththeenvironmentalandsocial impactsofthetextilesandclothingsector.Thisquitelengthytopicisdiscussedin this volume in ten very informative chapters. ‘‘Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and Its Assessment Through LifeCycleAssessment’’—presentsanoutlineofenvironmentalimpactspertaining tothetextilesandclothingsector.Usingthelifecyclephasesoftextileproductsas a base, this chapter deals with the various potential environmental issues, such as the consumption of water, energy, chemicals, packaging materials, waste gener- ation, and the corresponding environmental impact caused by the textile sector. Clothingconsumptionisresponsibleforamajorshareoftotallifecycleimpacts created by textile products. Though the percentage contribution of the consump- tionphase tothetotal environmentalimpactsishighlyvariableforvarious textile products and depends on many factors, from the outset this phase contributes significantly. This is evident from the many research studies on life cycle assessmentofclothingproductsconductedsofar.Hencethisvolumehasachapter to deal with this very important aspect: ‘‘Environmentally Sustainable Clothing Consumption: Knowledge, Attitudes, and Behavior’’. This chapter presents an overview of environmentally sustainable clothing consumption and disseminates information pertaining to the knowledge and attitudes of apparel consumers towards the various potential environmental issues related to the different life cycle phases of a textile product. It also presents the details of current consumer engagement levels in environmentally sustainable clothing consumption and an interestinganalysisoftherelationshipsbetweenknowledge,attitudes,andclothing consumer behavior. v vi Preface ‘‘Emerging Green Technologies and Environment Friendly Products for Sustainable Textiles’’—deals with the details of various green technologies (such as supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing, plasma technology, and ultrasonic dyeing) to replace conventional textile wet processes, which are found to be environmentally detrimental. It also discusses the application of sustainable materials and utilization of by-products from other industries to achieve sustain- able textile products. Any product, including a textile product, is expected to be disposed of at the end of its life without environmental implications. This concept is addressed by biodegradation and the next chapter, ‘‘Biodegradation Studies of Textiles and Clothing Products’’—revolves around this concept and discusses the biodegrada- tion of textiles and clothing products. It addresses minute details pertaining to biodegradation, ranging from the mechanism behind it and the different factors influencingbiodegradation,methods,techniques,andconditionsofbiodegradation assessment. It also presents an overview of biodegradation behavior and studies related to various textile and clothing products. ‘‘Responsibility Without Means’’—discusses the consumer phase of clothing products. It deals with consumer behaviour towards environmental impacts of clothing and investigates how consumers can help to reduce these environmental impacts together with the capability and willingness of customers to change their behaviour. Details are presented in the light of the results derived from the out- come of two research projects on environmental challenges connected to textiles and clothing in this chapter. Two research questions posed were elucidated with the aid of data from various desktop studies, in-depth interviews in combination with wardrobe studies, and consumer surveys. ‘‘Environmental Analysis of Textile Value Chain: An Overview’’—covers the environmental impacts of the textile value chain. Beginning by highlighting the environmental and social impacts of textiles and clothing sector, this chapter contains detailed discussions on various potential environmental impact areas of the clothing sector. It also deals with the environmental impacts offibres and the various textile processes involved in the clothing and apparel production chain, along with a brief note on consumer responsibility. ‘‘Who Influence the Environmental Adaptation Process of Small and Medium SizedTextileandGarmentCompaniesinVietnam?’’—dealswiththecasestudyof VietnamSMEs(SmallandMediumsizedEnterprises).Thischapterbeginswithan overview of SMEs and the textile and garment sector in Vietnam. Discussing whether the stakeholders’ involved in the environmental adaptation process is the first step to fill the related knowledge gap, this chapter briefs the stakeholders’ theory. Stakeholders in this sector in Vietnam are dealt with in detail. ‘‘The SURF Framework Applied to the Textile Industry’’—deals with the details pertaining to the SURF (Supply chain, User, Relations, and Future) Framework, which addresses the quadruple bottom line of sustainability: social, environmental, economic, and intergenerational equity results and application to the textile industry. It includes discussions related to various textile-specific ini- tiatives,standards,methods,andtoolsthatrelatetoeachcomponentofSURFand Preface vii presentsinterestingcase studies onapplicationofthe SURFFramework tocotton textiles and to two different companies that sell cotton shoes and jeans, respectively. ‘‘Sustainable Business Development Through Designing Approaches for Fashion Value Chains’’—identifies and discusses the various challenges posed tothefashionvaluechainandtheenvironmental,economic,andsocialimpactsof the same. Having discussed the concept and model of sustainable business development, detailed discussions pertaining to a holistic designing approach on sustainable business development on fashion value chain are presented. ‘‘Eco-friendly Coloration and Functionalization of Textile Using Plant Extracts’’—includes discussion of the extraction and characterization of plant molecules suitable for textile coloration. Sustainable textile processing and fin- ishing using plant molecules, textile coloration with the aid of natural dyes, and variousnaturaldyesandtheirdyeingprocessesarealsocoveredalongwithdetails pertaining to health and hygienic textiles and various other textile factors such as flame retardancy and producing well-being textiles using plant molecules. Iwouldliketotakethisopportunitytothankallthecontributorsofthedifferent chapters included in this second volume of roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing for their timely efforts in bringing out this book successfully with enri- ched technical content in their chapters. I have no doubt that the readers will benefit from this book which brings out the important details associated with the environmental and social impacts of the textiles and clothing sector. This second volume in the roadmap series of sustainable textiles and clothing will certainly becomeanimportantreferencefortheresearchersandstudents,industrialists,and sustainability professionals working in this field. Contents Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and Its Assessment Through Life Cycle Assessment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 A. K. Roy Choudhury Environmentally Sustainable Clothing Consumption: Knowledge, Attitudes, and Behavior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Kim Y. Hiller Connell and Joy M. Kozar Emerging Green Technologies and Environment Friendly Products for Sustainable Textiles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Shahid-ul-Islam and Faqeer Mohammad Biodegradation Studies of Textiles and Clothing Products. . . . . . . . . . 83 Sohel Rana, Subramani Pichandi, Shama Parveen and Raul Fangueiro Responsibility Without Means . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Kirsi Laitala, Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Ingun Grimstad Klepp Environmental Analysis of Textile Value Chain: An Overview . . . . . . 153 T. Karthik and D. Gopalakrishnan Who Influence the Environmental Adaptation Process of Small and Medium Sized Textile and Garment Companies in Vietnam?. . . . 189 Nga H. Nguyen, Robert J. S. Beeton and Anthony Halog The SURF Framework Applied to the Textile Industry. . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Marilyn Waite ix x Contents Sustainable Business Development Through Designing Approaches for Fashion Value Chains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Rudrajeet Pal Eco-friendly Coloration and Functionalization of Textile Using Plant Extracts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Kartick K. Samanta, S. Basak and S. K. Chattopadhyay Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and Its Assessment Through Life Cycle Assessment A. K. Roy Choudhury Abstract The textile industry is considered as ecologically one of the most pol- lutingindustriesintheworld.Theissueswhichmakethelifecyclesoftextilesand clothing unsustainable are the use of harmful chemicals, high consumption of waterandenergy,generationoflargequantitiesofsolidandgaseouswastes,huge fuel consumption for transportation to remote places where textile units are located,anduseofnon-biodegradablepackagingmaterials.Theoverallimpacton theenvironmentbyatextileproductorprocessmaybebestassessedbylifecycle assessment (LCA) which is a systematic scientific approach to examine the environmental impacts of the entire life cycle of a product or service. Keywords Waterpollution(cid:2)Harmfulchemicals(cid:2)Wastegeneration(cid:2)Reuseand recycle (cid:2) Restricted substances list 1 The Textile Industry The global supply of manufactured fibers and the major natural fibers increased from 52.6 million tons in 2000 to 70.5 million tons in 2008, corresponding to an average annual growth rate of 3.3 % [67]. During that period, the share of the manufactured fibers increased from 59 to 63 %. Lenzing [57] reports that the global fiber usage in 2011 totaled more than 51 million metric tons of manufac- tured fibers and nearly 30 million metric tons of natural fibers, a record total representinga1 %increaseover2010fiberusage,andapercapitaconsumptionof nearly 12 kg. Over the last 3–4 years, manufactured fiber usage has steadily A.K.RoyChoudhury(&) GovernmentCollegeofEngineeringandTextileTechnologySerampore, Hooghly,Serampore712201,WestBengal,India e-mail:[email protected] S.S.Muthu(ed.),RoadmaptoSustainableTextilesandClothing, 1 TextileScienceandClothingTechnology,DOI:10.1007/978-981-287-110-7_1, (cid:2)SpringerScience+BusinessMediaSingapore2014
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