Riesling rediscovered: bold, bright, and dry

408 Pages·2016·171.932 MB·English

by  Haeger, John Winthrop

RIESLING REDISCOVERED
Bold, Bright, and Dry
John Winthrop Haeger
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS
SIMPSON
IMPRINT IN HUMANITIES
The humanities endowment
by sharon Hanley Simpson and
Barley Simpson honors
MURIEL CARTER HALEY
Whose intellect and senstivity
have enriched the many lives
that the has touched.
The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of
the Simpson Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of
California Press Foundation, and the General Endowment Fund
of the University of California Press Foundation.
RIESLING REDISCOVERED
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RIESLING REDISCOVERED
Bold, Bright, and Dry
John Winthrop Haeger
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS
University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university
presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by
advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural
sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and
by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For
more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.
University of California Press
Oakland, California
© 2016 by The Regents of the University of California
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Haeger, John Winthrop, 1944- author.
Riesling rediscovered : bold, bright, and dry / John Winthrop
Haeger. -- First edition.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
isbn 978–0–520–27545–4 (cloth : alk. paper)—isbn 0–520–
27545–4 (cloth : alk. paper)—isbn 978–0–520–96216–3 (ebook) --
ISBN 0–520–96216–8 (ebook)
1. Wine and wine making. 2. Riesling (Wine) I. Title.
tp548.h223 2015
663′.2—dc23 2015005475
25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements
of ansi/niso z39.48–1992 (r 2002) (Permanence of Paper).
contents
List of Maps / viii 7 • RIESLING HABITATS IN WESTERN EUROPE / 81
Acknowledgments / ix Box 7a: Making Sense of Vineyard Names,
Perimeters, and Reputations / 83
Introduction / 1
Box 7b: Viticultural Appellations and
part i Subappellations in Alsace / 85
Box 7c: Prussian Tax Maps and Vineyard
1 • THE RIESLING PREDICAMENT / 7 Names in Germany / 89
Box 1: How Is “Dry” Defined? / 13 Box 7d: Regions, Rieden, and 1ötw in
Austria / 102
2 • RIESLING BEHAVIORS, TYPICITY, AND Box 7e: Wine Styles and Grape Harvest
TERROIRS / 21
Dates: Germany versus Austria / 104
Box 2: What Is Balance in Riesling? / 25
8 • RIESLING HABITATS IN NORTH AMERICA / 115
3 • A HISTORY OF RIESLING, REVIEWED AND
Box 8a: American Viticultural Areas and
AMENDED / 31
Designated Viticultural Areas in North
Box 3: A Closer Look at Early
America / 117
“Riesling” / 40
Box 8b: Chateau Ste. Michelle / 130
4 • SWEET AND DRY WINE STYLES / 42
part ii
Box 4: A Rhenish Bias in Favor of
“Natural” Wines? / 46
INTRODUCTION TO SITES AND
PRODUCERS / 147
5 • HOW DRY RIESLING IS MADE / 60
RHINE BASIN / 150
6 • WHAT DIFFERENCES DO CLONES MAKE? / 68
Alsace / 150
Box 6a: Tasting Clones in Oregon / 76
Altenberg and Thalberg de
Box 6b: The Relative Popularity of Riesling
Bergbieten / 150
Clones / 78
Engelberg / 153 Klaus / 233
Geisberg, Osterberg, and Kirchberg de Viesslinger Bruck / 237
Ribeauvillé / 155
Dürnsteiner Kellerberg / 239
Grafenreben de Zellenberg / 158
Wösendorfer Kirchweg / 241
Kastelberg and Wiebelsberg
Schütt / 243
de Andlau / 162
Loibner Steinertal / 245
Kitterlé, Saering, Kessler, Spiegel,
Tributary Valleys of the Danube / 248
and Belzbrunnen de Guebwiller / 165
Senftenberger Ehrenfels / 248
Muehlforst de Hunawihr / 169
Getzersdorfer Engelreich and
Rangen de Thann and Clos Saint-
Berg / 250
Urbain / 170
Gaisberg / 252
Rosacker and Clos Ste-Hune / 172
Steiner Grillenparz / 255
Schlossberg / 178
Heiligenstein / 257
Schoenenbourg de Riquewihr / 181
Gedersdorfer Mosburgerin / 259
Sommerberg / 185
Senftenberger Pellingen / 261
Clos Windsbuhl / 187
Silberbichl / 263
German Rhine Regions / 190
Langenloiser Steinmassl / 264
Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg / 190
Haardter Bürgergarten / 194
ADIGE BASIN: ALTO ADIGE / 267
Oestricher Doosberg / 197
Kaiton / 267
Nieder-Flörsheimer Frauenberg / 200
Unterortl / 269
Monziger Frühlingsplätzchen and
Untersteiner / 271
Halenberg / 202
Freinsheimer Goldberg / 205 EASTERN NORTH AMERICA / 274
Kiedricher Gräfenberg / 208 Argetsinger Vineyard / 274
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle / 210 Bowers Harbor Vineyard Block II / 276
Königsbacher Idig / 212 Cave Spring Vineyard / 277
Laubenheimer Karthäuser / 215 Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Keuka Lake
Birkweiler Kastanienbusch / 218 Vineyard / 279
Pündericher Marienburg / 220 Falling Man Vineyard / 282
Westhofener Morstein, HJW Vineyard / 284
Aulerde, Kirchspiel, and Molly Devine Vineyard / 287
Brunnenhäuschen / 223
Nadja’s Vineyard / 290
Niersteiner Pettenthal / 226
Rosomel Vineyard / 292
Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg / 228
Sheldrake Point Vineyard / 294
Kallstadter Saumagen / 231
Terminal Moraine Vineyard / 296
DANUBE BASIN: LOWER AUSTRIA 233 WESTERN NORTH AMERICA / 298
Wachau / 233 Okanagan and Similkameen / 298
Weissenkirchener Achleiten and Mulberry Tree Vineyard / 298
Schales Family Estate / 300 Claiborne Vineyard / 326
Stoney Slope Vineyard / 302 Corda Ranch / 328
Tantalus Estate Vineyards / 304 Greenwood Ridge Vineyards / 330
Washington and Oregon / 306 Kick-On Ranch / 333
Brooks Estate Vineyard / 306 Paragon Vineyard / 337
Corfu Crossing Vineyard / 309 Platt Family Vineyard / 340
DuBrul Vineyard / 311 Smith-Madrone Estate Vineyard / 342
Elk Cove Estate Vineyard / 313 Stony Hill Vineyard / 344
Evergreen Vineyard / 315 Ventana Vineyard / 346
Figgins Estate Vineyard / 318
References / 349
Hyland Vineyard / 320
Index / 355
Solstice Vineyard / 322
Wascher Vineyard / 324
MAP SECTION FOLLOWS PAGE 114.
California’s Coastal Valleys / 326