RETURN TO ALEXANDRIA PUBLICATIONS OF THE INSTITUTE OF ARCHAEOLOGY, UNIVERSITY COLLEGE LONDON Director of the Institute: Stephen Shennan Founding Series Editor: Peter J. Ucko The Institute of Archaeology of University College London is one of the oldest, largest, and most prestigious archaeology research facilities in the world. Its extensive publications programme includes the best theory, research, pedagogy, and reference materials in archaeology and cognate disciplines, through publishing exemplary work of scholars worldwide. Through its publications, the Institute brings together key areas of theoretical and substantive knowledge, improves archaeological practice, and brings archaeological findings to the general public, researchers, and practitioners. It also publishes staff research projects, site and survey reports, and conference proceedings. The publications programme, formerly developed inhouse or in conjunction with UCL Press, is now produced in partnership with Left Coast Press, Inc. The Institute can be accessed online at www.ucl.ac.uk/archaeology. ENCOUNTERS WITH ANCIENT EGYPT Subseries, Peter J. Ucko, (ed.) Jean-Marcel Humbert and Clifford Price (eds.), Imhotep Today David Jeffreys (ed.), Views of Ancient Egypt since Napoleon Bonaparte Sally MacDonald and Michael Rice (eds.), Consuming Ancient Egypt Roger Matthews and Cornelia Roemer (eds.), Ancient Perspectives on Egypt David O’Connor and Andrew Reid (eds.), Ancient Egypt in Africa John Tait (ed.), ‘Never had the like occurred’ David O’Connor and Stephen Quirke (eds.), Mysterious Lands Peter Ucko and Timothy Champion (eds.), The Wisdom of Egypt CRITICAL PERSPECTIVES ON CULTURAL HERITAGE Subseries, Beverley Butler (ed.) Beverley Butler, Return to Alexandria Ferdinand de Jong and Michael Rowlands (eds.), Reclaiming Heritage Dean Sully (ed.), Decolonizing Conservation OTHER TITLES Andrew Gardner (ed.), Agency Uncovered Okasha El-Daly, Egyptology, The Missing Millennium Ruth Mace, Clare J. Holden, and Stephen Shennan (eds.), Evolution of Cultural Diversity Arkadiusz Marciniak, Placing Animals in the Neolithic Robert Layton, Stephen Shennan, and Peter Stone (eds.), A Future for Archaeology Joost Fontein, The Silence of Great Zimbabwe Gabriele Puschnigg, Ceramics of the Merv Oasis James Graham-Campbell and Gareth Williams (eds.), Silver Economy in the Viking Age Barbara Bender, Sue Hamilton, and Chris Tilley, Stone World Andrew Gardner, An Archaeology of Identity Sue Hamilton, Ruth Whitehouse, and Katherine I. Wright (eds.), Archaeology and Women Gustavo Politis, Nukak Sue Colledge and James Conolly (eds.), The Origins and Spread of Domestic Plants in Southwest Asia and Europe Timothy Clack and Marcus Brittain (eds.), Archaeology and the Media Janet Picton, Stephen Quirke, and Paul C. Roberts (eds.), Living Images Tony Waldron, Paleoepidemiology Eleni Asouti and Dorian Q. Fuller, Trees and Woodlands of South India Russell McDougall and Iain Davidson (eds.), The Roth Family, Anthropology, and Colonial Administration Elizabeth Pye (ed.), The Power of Touch John Tait, Why the Egyptians Wrote Books RETURN TO ALEXANDRIA An Ethnography of Cultural Heritage, Revivalism, and Museum Memory Beverley Butler Walnut Creek, California LEFT COAST PRESS, INC. 1630 North Main Street, #400 Walnut Creek, CA 94596 http://www.LCoastPress.com Copyright © 2007 by Left Coast Press, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. ISBN 978-1-59874-190-2 hardcover ISBN 978-1-59874-191-9 paperback Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Butler, Beverley. Return to Alexandria : an ethnography of cultural heritage, revivalism, and museum memory / Beverley Butler. p. cm. — (Publications of the Institute of Archaeology, University College, London) (Critical perspectives on cultural heritage) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-59874-190-2 (alk. paper) ISBN-13: 978-1-59874-191-9 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Aliksandrina (Library)—History. 2. Alexandria (Egypt)—Antiquities. 3. Revival movements (Art)—Egypt—Alexandria. 4. Library architecture—Egypt—Alexandria. 5. Egypt—Cultural policy. 6. Cultural property—Protection—Case studies. 7. Museum techniques—Case studies. 8. East and West—Case studies. 9. North and south—Case studies. 10. Postcolonialism—Case studies. I. Title. Z722.5.B88 2007 069.0932—dc22 2007027643 Printed in the United States of America ∞™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48–1992. 07 08 09 10 11 5 4 3 2 1 Contents List of Illustrations 7 Series Editor’s Preface 11 Acknowledgments 13 Introduction Preludes – Founding Myth and Archive 15 Chapter 1 The ‘Alexandria Project’ in the Western Imagination 31 Chapter 2 ‘On The Ruins’: Postcolonial Heritage Metamorphosis 63 Chapter 3 Contemporary Return to Alexandria: International Sacred Dramas 93 Chapter 4 ‘Revivalism between Worlds’: UNESCO and GOAL 123 Chapter 5 ‘Meltdown’: Revivalism’s ‘Time of Anxiety’ 157 Chapter 6 ‘Spirit of Aspiration’: Archaeological Revivalism and Recuperation 189 Chapter 7 Urban Shock Therapy: Alexandria’s ‘Las Vegasisation’ 213 Conclusion ‘Windows onto Contemporary Worlds’ 241 Bibliography 279 Index 293 About the Author 299 6 Return to Alexandria List of Illustrations 1. ‘Fourth Pyramid’: Ariel view of Bibliotheca Alexandrina 19 2. ‘Wonder of the Modern World’: Night view of Bibliotheca Alexandrina showing the ‘striped blue and black sphere’ housing a planetarium 20 3. Reemergent Heritage in Alexandria’s Eastern Harbour: Object lifted by archaeologists at the Qait Bey/Pharos site. The object is one of a number of 60-ton blocks surrounding the ancient lighthouse’s entrance. In the background is Qait Bey Fort, built in 1477 on the site of the ancient lighthouse. 22 4. Past in the Present, Royal Palace site, Alexandria’s Eastern Harbour: A diver is locating the exact position of a Sphinx, supposed to represent Cleopatra’s father, Ptolemy XII, with a differential underwater GPS. 22 5. Revivalism As ‘Heritigification’: Line drawing of Alexandria’s Eastern Harbour showing the proximity of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina to the archaeological missions 23 6. Plato’s Obelisk, Old Heliopolis, Ain Shams and Al-Matariyah Districts, Cairo 68 7. Mary’s Tree, Old Heliopolis, Ain Shams and Al-Matariyah Districts, Cairo 69 8. Contemporary Return: Overall view of the Eastern Harbour and downtown Alexandria. In the foreground is Fort Qait Bey. The corniche curves along the Royal Palace’s site and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina site. 94 9. Sacred Dramas, Members of International Committee, Aswan Meeting 1990: The Snohetta-designed model of the Bibliotheca Alexandria takes centre-stage. 102 10. Ritual Chorus, Members of International Committee, Aswan Meeting 1990: Again, the Snohetta-designed model of the Bibliotheca Alexandria is centre-stage. 102 11. Signing Their Support: Aswan Declaration, showing Signatures of International Committee, Aswan Meeting 1990 106 12. Object of Aspiration: Snohetta-designed model of Bibliotheca Alexandrina 107 13. Future Shock: Snohetta-designed model like that displayed in GOAL offices under perspex. 126 14. ‘Layers of Time’: Close-up of Snohetta-designed model showing exterior wall with ‘universal’ scripts 128 15. Materialisation on the Ruins: Early construction phase, preparing the foundations at the Bibliotheca Alexandrina site 133 16. Emergence of Technological Object: Later construction phase – Mohammed el Qot directing work on exterior roof of Bibliotheca Alexandrina 134 17. GOAL Logo: Merges the ‘old’ motif-icon of the ancient lighthouse with the ‘new’ Alexandrina’s futuristic architecture 136 18. Universal Visions: UNESCO Paris headquarters with view of Eiffel Tower 142 19. Picture Perfect: Snohetta-designed Model of Bibliotheca Alexandrina on black background as seen in GOAL Alexandria and UNESCO Paris offices 143 20. Vantage Point on Revivalism: The Greco-Roman Museum, downtown Alexandria 159 21. Object of Speculation: Building work taking place on Bibliotheca site with adjacent maternity and children’s hospital 178 22. At a depth of only 7 meters, a diver from archeologist Jean-Yves Empereur’s team comes face to face with a 2-ton sphinx whose cartouche was erased at the time of Pharaoh Ramses II (1300–1235 BCE). 192 23. The statue of an Isis priest holding an Osiris-jar found on the sunken Island of Antirhodos in the great harbour of Alexandria. The statue from black granite is 1.22 meters high. 193 24. Return of the Gods: The colossal statue of King Ptolemy takes part in a procession at the Eastern Port of Alexandria before being placed in a desalination tank for six months. 210 25. Civic Heritage: Governorate headquarters, downtown Alexandria 216 26. ‘Las Vegasisation’: A ‘Greek’ vase sculpture sponsored by local Alexandrian businesses 221 27. ‘Greek Gift’, statue of Alexander the Great, downtown Alexandria 230 28. ‘Vox Pop Backdrop’: New mosaic featuring Alexander the Great, downtown Alexandria 234 29. ‘World of Mixture’: Posters of the Spice Girls and Mecca for sale, downtown Alexandria 235 30. Migrant Heritage: Mr Nubia Nubia and family, originally from Nubia, in their shop, which sells souvenirs, notably amulets, from Nubia. The shop is situated near the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. 236 31. Mr Nubia Nubia’s shop also displays photographs of Presidents Nasser and Sadat. 237 32. Journey’s End: Rainbow arches over the Bibliotheca Alexandrina 242 33. Statue of Demetrius of Phaleron: Front entrance Bibliotheca Alexandrina 244 34. ‘Fire-works’: Inauguration celebrations 248 35. ‘Meeting ground’: Plaza of Civilisation 249 36. Entente with Images: Awad Collection, housed within Bibliotheca Alexandrina 250 37. Entente with Artefacts: The colossal statue of King Ptolemy, measuring over 13 meters high and weighing over 20 tons, discovered by archaeologists at the Qait Bey site, is repositioned at the entrance of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. 251 38. Antiquities Museum: Within Bibliotheca Alexandrina museum complex 269
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