OxfordArchaeologicalGuides GeneralEditor:BarryCunliffe The Holy Land JeromeMurphy-O’ConnorisProfessorofNewTestamentattheÉcole BibliqueetArchéologiqueFrançaise,Jerusalem,andauthorofPaul:A CriticalLife(1996)andPaul:HisStory(2004),bothalsopublishedby OxfordUniversityPress. BarryCunliffeisProfessorofEuropeanArchaeologyattheUniversity ofOxford.Theauthorofoverfortybooks,includingTheOxford IllustratedPrehistoryofEuropeandTheAncientCelts,hehasservedas PresidentoftheCouncilforBritishArchaeologyandtheSocietyof Antiquaries,andiscurrentlyamemberoftheAncientMonuments BoardofEnglishHeritage. ‘abrilliantaccomplishment...theonebookyoumustbringwithyou whenyouvisitIsrael.’ walter zanger ‘Alwaysrespectful,yetnevergullibleorpreachy,FatherMurphy O’Connor’sTheHolyLandisbyfarthebestpopularguidetoits subjecteverwritten.Everyentrybearstheindeliblemarkofhaving beenwrittenbysomeonewhoknowstheplaceitdescribes,andhas seenitwithanexpertintelligenceandanopenmind.Inshort,it’sthat rarething,anexcellent,up-to-date,well-writtenguidebook.’ john romer Oxford Archaeological Guides England TimothyDarvill,PaulStamper,andJaneTimby Rome AmandaClaridge Scotland AnnaandGrahamRitchie TheHolyLand JeromeMurphy-O’Connor Spain RogerCollins SouthernFrance HenryCleere Greece AntonySpawforthandChristopherMee Ireland AndyHalpinandConorNewman The Holy Land An Oxford Archaeological Guide from Earliest Times to 1700 JeromeMurphy-O’Connor,op ÉcoleBibliqueetArchéologiqueFrançaise,Jerusalem fifthedition Revisedandexpanded 1 3 GreatClarendonStreet,Oxfordox26dp OxfordUniversityPressisadepartmentoftheUniversityofOxford. ItfurtherstheUniversity’sobjectiveofexcellenceinresearch,scholarship, andeducationbypublishingworldwidein Oxford NewYork Auckland CapeTown DaresSalaam HongKong Karachi KualaLumpur Madrid Melbourne MexicoCity Nairobi NewDelhi Shanghai Taipei Toronto Withofficesin Argentina Austria Brazil Chile CzechRepublic France Greece Guatemala Hungary Italy Japan Poland Portugal Singapore SouthKorea Switzerland Thailand Turkey Ukraine Vietnam OxfordisaregisteredtrademarkofOxfordUniversityPress intheUKandincertainothercountries PublishedintheUnitedStates byOxfordUniversityPressInc.,NewYork ©JeromeMurphy-O’Connor,op.1980,1986,1992,1998,2008 Themoralrightsoftheauthorhavebeenasserted DatabaserightOxfordUniversityPress(maker) Fiftheditionpublished2008 Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced, storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans, withoutthepriorpermissioninwritingofOxfordUniversityPress, orasexpresslypermittedbylaw,orundertermsagreedwiththeappropriate reprographicsrightsorganization.Enquiriesconcerningreproduction outsidethescopeoftheaboveshouldbesenttotheRightsDepartment, OxfordUniversityPress,attheaddressabove Youmustnotcirculatethisbookinanyotherbindingorcover andyoumustimposethesameconditiononanyacquirer BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Dataavailable LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationData Murphy-O’Connor,J.(Jerome),1935– TheHolyLand:anOxfordarchaeologicalguidefromearliesttimesto1700/Jerome Murphy-O’Connor.—5thed. p. cm. ISBN 978-0-19-923666-4 1. Palestine—Antiquities—Guidebooks. 2. Palestine—Guidebooks. 3. Excavations (Archaeology)—Palestine—Guidebooks. I. Title. DS111.M82007 956.94—dc22 2007036902 TypesetbySPIPublisherServices,Pondicherry,India PrintedinGreatBritain onacid-freepaperby ClaysLtd,StIvesplc ISBN 978–0–19–923666–4 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 Series Editor’s Foreword Travellingforpleasure,whetherforcuriosity,nostalgia,religiousconvic- tion,orsimplytosatisfyaninherentneedtolearn,hasbeenanessential part of the human condition for centuries. Chaucer’s ‘Wife of Bath’ rangedwide,visitingJerusalemthreetimesaswellasSantiagodeCom- postela, Rome, Cologne, and Boulogne. Her motivation, like that of so manymedievaltravellers,wasprimarilytovisitholyplaces.Later,asthe GrandTourtookaholdintheeighteenthcentury,pietywasreplacedby theneedfeltbytheelitetoeducateitsyoung,tocompensateforthedis- gracefullyinadequatetrainingofferedatthattimebyOxfordandCam- bridge.ThelevellingeffectoftheNapoleonicWarschangedallthatand intheageofthesteamshipandtherailwaymasstourismwasbornwhen MrThomasCookfirstoffered‘AGreatCircularTouroftheContinent’. There have been guidebooks as long as there have been travellers. Though not intended as such, the Histories of Herodotus would have beenanindispensablecompaniontoawanderingGreek.Centurieslater Pausanias’guidetothemonumentsofGreecewaswidelyusedbytravel- lingRomansintentondiscoveringtherootsoftheircivilization.Inthe eighteenthcenturytravelbookstookonamorepracticalformofferinga torrentofusefuladvice,fromdealingwithrecalcitrantforeigninnkeep- ers to taking a plentiful supply of oil of lavender to ward off bedbugs. But it was the incomparable ‘Baedekers’ that gave enlightenment and reassurancetotheincreasingtideofenquiringtouristswhofloodedthe Continentinthelatterpartofthenineteenthcentury.Thebatteredbut much-treasured red volumes may still sometimes be seen in use today, poredoveronsitesbythosenostalgicforthegentleartoftravel. Theneedsandexpectationsoftheenquiringtravellerchangerapidly anditwouldbeimpossibletomeetthemallwithinthecompassofsingle volumes.Withthisinmind,theOxfordArchaeologicalGuideshavebeen createdtosatisfyaparticularandgrowinginterest.Eachvolumeprovides lively and informed descriptions of a wide selection of archaeological sites chosen to display the cultural heritage of the country in question. Plans, designed to match the text, make it easy to grasp the full extent ofthesitewhilefocusingonitsessentialaspects.Theemphasisis,nec- essarily,onseeing,understanding,andaboveallenjoyingtheparticular place. But archaeological sites are the creation of history and can only befullyappreciatedagainstthelongueduréeofhumanachievement.To providethis,eachbook begins witha wide-ranginghistoricaloverview introducing the changing cultures of the country and the landscapes whichformedthem.Thus,whiletheGuidesareprimarilyintendedfor thetravellertheycanbereadwithequalvalueathome. BarryCunliffe Preface to the Fifth Edition ArchaeologyinIsraelneverstops.Theresultisthatnoguidebookisever completelyuptodate.Thebestthatonecandoistokeepupgradingcon- tinuously.Inthepastenoughnewmaterialaccumulatedtonecessitatea neweditioneveryeverysixorsoyears,andthiseditionisnoexception. Six new sites have been integrated, ranging from a Middle Bronze watersysteminJerusalemtoaUmayyadfortbesidethebeachatAshdod, and perhaps the original Pool of Siloam. Final reports have nuanced andsometimeschangedthepreliminaryinterpretationsproposedinthe courseofexcavation.Anoriginalapproachtoasiteasthoroughlystudied as the Holy Sepulchre has yielded fresh information of crucial impor- tance.AtHazortwoancientbuildingsweremovedtoanotherpartofthe moundinordertoexplorewhatlaybeneath,andaCanaanitepalacewas broughttolight.TherestorationofthecolourfulfrescosatAbuGhosh andthedisplayofmagnificentmosaicsatSepphorishaveenhancedthe artisticdimensionofthebook.Evenwhenthereisnonewarchaeological materialentrieshavehadtoberewrittenbecausetheNatureandParks Authority haschangedthe accessroute(forexample, En Gedi, andthe Caesareadam)orthedirectionofpaths(forexample,Banyas).Discover- iesinmyreadingofancientauthorshaveledtoanumberofnewboxes. MarcelBeaudry,amajorcontributortopreviousrevisions,diedtrag- ically in a car accident in June 2000. His participation in this edition is greatly missed. To some extent his place has been taken by Christian Eeckhout,OP,towhomIexpressmythanks.Ioweaparticulardebtto twousersoftheguidebook,TarcisioZanette,OP,andTomPowers,who tookthetroubletosendmelistsofminor,butnonethelessmostwel- come,corrections.MygratitudeisalsoduetoHanlieBooysen,Heather Brophy,SeanandFranMcCann,andFrancescoMancawhobroughtme to sites that I needed to check, to Jennifer Dillon for ten excellent new drawings,andagaintoJean-MicheldeTarragon,OP,forthephotographs fromthecollectionoftheÉcoleBiblique. JeromeMurphy-O’Connor,op Jerusalem October2007 Contents Listof Maps xiv Introduction xv ScopeofthisGuide xv HowtousetheGuide xv Bibliography xvii PracticalAdvice xxi Acknowledgements xxii A Brief HistoricalOutline 1 Part 1: The City of Jerusalem Walls and Gates 11 Herod’sGateanditsVicinity 14 DamascusGate 14 NewGateanditsVicinity 16 JaffaGatetotheSouth-WestCorner 17 SionGatetoDungGate 18 StStephen’sGate 21 (cid:2)(cid:2) The Citadel 23 TheMuseum 24 TheBuildingandtheExcavations 25 The MuslimQuarter 29 StAnne’s 29 MinorMonuments 33 AntoniaFortress 34 MonasteryoftheFlagellation 35 EcceHomo 35 ViaDolorosa 37 (cid:2) MamlukBuildings 38 Aqabatet-Takiya 40 TariqBaben-Nazir 41 TariqBabel-Hadid 42 Suqel-Qattanin 43 TariqBabes-Silsila 44 The Christian Quarter 49 (cid:2) TheHolySepulchre 49 HiddenPartsoftheConstantinianHolySepulchre 59 viii Contents TheRussianMissioninExile 59 EthiopianMonastery 61 TwoMosques 62 TheMauristan 63 ChurchoftheRedeemer 64 ChurchofStJohntheBaptist 65 Hezekiah’sPool 65 RomanColumn 66 The Armenian Quarter 68 (cid:2) TheCathedralofStJames 68 TheMardigianMuseum 72 TheConventoftheOliveTree 73 MedievalChapels 73 The Jewish Quarter 75 IsraeliteandHasmoneanWalls 76 ModelofIronAgeJerusalem 78 CrusaderMarket 78 (cid:2) CardoMaximus 79 TheBurntHouse 80 (cid:2)(cid:2) HerodianHouses 80 StMaryoftheGermans 82 TheColumn 83 ApseoftheNeaChurch 83 TheFourSynagogues 84 HurvaandRambanSynagogues 84 ThePavedStreet 85 TheRoofsoftheMarket 86 Haram esh-Sharif(Temple Mount) 87 AlongtheNorthWall 90 (cid:2)(cid:2) DomeoftheRock 92 DomeoftheChain 97 ThePlatformoftheDomeoftheRock 98 (cid:2)(cid:2) FountainofSultanQaytbay 98 MadrasaAshrafiyya 99 Babel-Mathara 100 Babel-Qattanin 100 GoldenGate 100 El-AksaMosque 102 Solomon’sStables 104 IslamicMuseum 105 Excavations at theWesternWall Plaza 106 TheWesternWall 106 (cid:2)(cid:2) WesternWallTunnel 107