(Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style: Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts PDF
Preview (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style: Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts
NEW DIRECTIONS IN ISLAM (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts Edited by Viola Thimm New Directions in Islam Series Editors Joshua M. Roose, Faculty of Arts and Education, Deakin University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Bryan S. Turner, Australian Catholic University and The Graduate Centre, City University of New York, New York, NY, USA TheNewDirectionsinIslam serieswillpromotecreativewaysofconcep- tualizing the practice of Islam in new, challenging contexts and present innovative and provocative interdisciplinary studies examining intel- lectual, political, legal, economic, and demographic trajectories within Islam. Although recognised as the world’s fastest growing religion, many Muslims now live in secular societies where Islam is a minority religion and where there is considerable social conflict between Muslim commu- nitiesandthewidersociety.Thereforeitisvitaltoengagewiththemulti- tude of ways by which Muslims are adapting and evolving as social and cultural minorities. How are they developing their faith in line with local and national customs?Howareconvertsandsubsequentgenerationsadaptinginthese challenging contexts?This series moves beyond dichotomies about radi- calism, citizenship, and loyalty evident in the proliferation of descrip- tive and repetitive studies of Islamophobia and Orientalism, which have become both negative and predictable. Rather, contrary to the percep- tion of Muslims as victims of secular modernity, we are interested in ‘success stories’ of Muslims adapting in and contributing to society at local, national and even transnational levels, such as the case of Muslim middleclassesinCanada,theUnitedStates,SouthAfrica,andArgentina. This series will go beyond the geographic boundaries of the Middle East to examine Islam from a global perspective in vastly different contexts from Brazil toVietnam and Austria to Papua New Guinea. More information about this series at http://www.palgrave.com/gp/series/14746 Viola Thimm Editor (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts Editor ViolaThimm University of Heidelberg Heidelberg, Germany New Directions in Islam ISBN 978-3-030-71940-1 ISBN 978-3-030-71941-8 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-71941-8 ©The Editor(s) (if applicable) andThe Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2021 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whetherthewholeorpartofthematerialisconcerned,specificallytherightsoftranslation,reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way,andtransmissionorinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation,computersoftware, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publicationdoesnot imply,evenintheabsenceof aspecific statement,thatsuch namesareexempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. Thepublisher,theauthorsandtheeditorsaresafetoassumethattheadviceandinformationinthis book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made.The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Cover illustration: Picture Partners/Alamy Stock Photo ThisPalgraveMacmillanimprintispublishedbytheregisteredcompanySpringerNatureSwitzerland AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland Contents Introduction: (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style—Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts 1 ViolaThimm Modesty and Fashion: Reconfiguring Social Conditions and Identifications Beauty East, BeautyWest: Muslim Beauty in Indonesian Islamic Magazines 21 Diah Ariani Arimbi “Your LifeWould BeTwice as Easy IfYou Didn’tWear It, It’s Like a Superhero’s Responsibility.” Clothing Practices ofYoung MuslimWomen in Germany as Sites of Agency and Resistance 41 Sabine Damir-Geilsdorf andYasmina Shamdin “How I Wear My Headscarf.” Narratives About Dress and Styling fromYoung MuslimWomen in Copenhagen 65 Gülzar Demir, Marie-Louise Nosch, and Else Skjold v vi Contents Trending Muslim Appeal and the Discourse on Intersectional Diversity 89 Laura Haddad Men’s Non-Fashion: Embodying Authority in the Gulf 109 ViolaThimm Normative Orders, Subjectivation and Counteractive Practices The Halal Nail Polish: Religion and Body Politics in the Marketplace 129 Özlem Sandıkcı Hijab as Migration: Embracing and Leaving Hijab in Contemporary Indonesia 151 Yulianingsih Riswan After the Hijab: Liminal States of Post-veiling Embodiment 173 Alicia Izharuddin High Heels and Rainbow Hijab 191 Nancy Pathak Materiality, Political Discourses, and Power The Fabric of Diasporic Designs:Wearing Punjabi Suits Home and Away Among South AsianWomen in Europe 215 Sara Bonfanti Materiality, the Malahfa (MauritanianVeil), and Social . Hierarchy 241 Katherine AnnWiley More Than a Garment: The haïk in Algeria as a Means of Embodied Artistic Expression 265 Isabella Schwaderer Contents vii Toward a Self-Empowered Female Body: Body Language, Tactility, and Materiality in Contemporary Art 287 Rhea Maria DehnTutosaus Index 315 Notes on Contributors Diah Ariani Arimbi is currently teaching gender and cultural studies at Universitas Airlangga in Surabaya, Indonesia. She received her Ph.D. fromTheUniversityofNewSouthWales,Australia.Hermainresearchis about the intersection between women and Islam in Indonesia. She also researcheswomenandtheiridentitiesinIndonesia:beitinliterarynarra- tivesorpopularculture.HerinterestsincludeIslamicfeminisms,Indone- sianwomeninpost-colonialIndonesia,whilehercurrentresearchescover images of women and the conception of beauty in magazines, and the ways women are portrayed in popular culture. Sara Bonfanti is a Research Fellow at the Department of Sociology and Social Research, University of Trento (Italy). Dr. Bonfanti is a social anthropologist, specialized in gender studies, with expertise on South Asian diasporas and multisite ethnography. Keen on participa- tory methods, her research interests include kinship, religious pluralism, andmediacultures,approachedthroughintersectionalityandlifestories. Since2017shehascollaboratedwithinthecomparativeERCHOMInG Project homing.soc.unitn.it, exploring the home-migration nexus across ix x Notes on Contributors Europeancities.Herlatestbook“ShiftingRoofs:EthnographiesofHome and Mobility” was published by Routledge in 2020. Sabine Damir-Geilsdorf isaProfessorofMiddleEasternStudiesatthe University of Cologne, Germany. She obtained her Ph.D. in Islamic Studies from the University of Gießen with a thesis on the Egyptian IslamistSayyidQutb(1906–1966)andreceivedherpostdoctoralqualifi- cation(Habilitation)fromtheUniversityofBonnwithastudyonPales- tiniannarrativesoftheArab-Israeliwar1948.Hermainresearchinterests include transformations of religious concepts, everyday religious prac- tices, (forced) migration, and popular culture. She has carried out field research in various countries in the Middle East. Rhea Maria DehnTutosaus isaPh.D.studentandresearchassistantin art history at the Department of Fashion and Aesthetics at theTechnical University of Darmstadt. She earned her BA in art history and romance studies and her MA in art history from the Goethe University Frankfurt amMainandtheUniversitatdeBarcelona.Herresearchfocusesonpost- colonial theory, transculturality and visual representation, and intersec- tions with migration and gender in contemporary art. Her publications include “Der Schleier: Nexus zwischen Kunst und Mode” (Contempo- raryMuslimFashionsed.byMahretIfeonaKupkaandMatthiasWagner K., MAK Frankfurt a.M. 2019). Gülzar Demir is a Master’s in Spanish and History from UCPH. She works as a research assistant for the Danish partners in the Creative Europeproject,TheFabricofMyLife.Sheteachespodcastingandsuper- visesthecollectionofpodcastonemotionsandclothing.Forthischapter, GülzarDemirconductedinterviewsinCopenhagenin2020aboutdress practicesandchoices,andshedesignedandsupervisedtheonlinesurvey. Laura Haddad is a Research Fellow at the Institute for Social Geog- raphy and Member of the Institute for Migration Research and Inter- cultural Studies (IMIS) at Osnabrück University, Germany. She is a member of the IMISCOE Standing Committee DIVCULT (Super- diversity, Migration and Cultural Change) and the Global Decenter (GDC).
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