Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga

259 Pages·2016·18.028 MB·English

by  coll.

P
D
F
Rarotonga
Samoa
& Tonga
PDF ebook
Edition 8th Edition
Release Date Dec 2016
Pages 256
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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Rarotonga,
Samoa
& Tonga
Samoa
(p98)
American
Samoa Rarotonga & the
(USA) Cook Islands
(p144) (p44)
Tonga
(p164)
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Brett Atkinson, Charles Rawlings-Way, Tamara Sheward
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Rarotonga, RAROTONGA & THE Pukapuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Samoa & Tonga . . . . . . . . . 4 COOK ISLANDS . . . . 44 Suwarrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Rarotonga, Samoa Rarotonga . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Understand Rarotonga
& Tonga Map . . . . . . . . . . . .6 & The Cook Islands . . . . 91
Avarua & Around . . . . . . . . 46
Rarotonga, Samoa Around the Island . . . . . . . 58 Rarotonga & the
& Tonga’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . . 8 Cook Islands Today . . . . . . 91
Aitutaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16 Palmerston . . . . . . . . . . . 77
The Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ‘Atiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Ma’uke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
Month by Month . . . . . . . 20 Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Mitiaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 94
Mangaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Which Island? . . . . . . . . . 28 Northern Group . . . . . . .89
SAMOA . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Outdoor Adventures . . . . 33 Manihiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Upolu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
Rakahanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Travel with Children . . . . 39 Apia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
Penrhyn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Regions at a Glance . . . . . 41
DAVID KIRKLAND / GETTY IMAGES © CHRIS CHEADLE / GETTY IMAGES ©
VAKA (CANOES) OFF VAVA’U
(P185), TONGA
LEM
AIRE STé
PHANE / HEM
IS.FR / GETTY IM
AGES ©
SEA TURTLE, SAVAI’I (P123), LOCAL DANCER,
SAMOA RAROTONGA (P45)
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Eastern Upolu . . . . . . . . . . 115 The Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Rarotonga, Samoa
South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 & Tonga Today . . . . . . . . 208
Northwestern Upolu . . . . 121 Environment . . . . . . . . . . . 161 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Manono . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . .161 Culture, Religion
Apolima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 & Tradition . . . . . . . . . . .220
Savai’i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 TONGA . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Myths & Legends . . . . .224
Salelologa Tongatapu . . . . . . . . . . .166
& the East Coast . . . . . . . 125 The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Nuku’alofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Central North Coast . . . . 128 Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 230
Around the Island . . . . . . 175
Northwestern Savai’i . . . . 131
’Eua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Ha’apai Group . . . . . . . . 180
Understand Samoa . . . . 133 SURVIVAL
Lifuka Group . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Samoa Today . . . . . . . . . . . 133 GUIDE
Vava’u Group . . . . . . . . . 185
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Neiafu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
The Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Around Vava’u . . . . . . . . . . 193 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Southern
Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Vava’u Islands . . . . . . . . . . 194 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Environment . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Eastern Vava’u Islands . . . . 195 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 138 Niua Group . . . . . . . . . .195 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Niuatoputapu . . . . . . . . . . 196
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 255
AMERICAN Niuafo’ou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
SAMOA . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Understand Tonga . . . . 197
Tutuila . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 Tonga Today . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Manu’a Islands . . . . . . .156 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Ofu & Olosega . . . . . . . . . . 157 The Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Ta’u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Understand Environment . . . . . . . . . . . 201
American Samoa . . . . .159
Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . 202
American Samoa Today . . . 159
Survival Guide . . . . . . . .202
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
SPECIAL FEATURES
Which Island? . . . . . . . . . 28 Myths & Legends . . . . .224
OTC& ruu aTltvrtdaeuodlr oeiwtr, ii oRtAhned l .Cvig .eh .inoi .ltnd .u r .r ee .n .s . . . . . . . . . . .2233093 TFohoed A &rt sD . r .in .k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223206 3PLAN YOUR TRIP Which island?0TTaaanhSTtawATlamuh unnroihhhsiaaxgdehmttlddmeeetiuLSSARGAAURSKSNALTPVTTVNBE hhhsmd brrrce AtrueraateoaaoaoietaaurpXheeeiaeamEaheatehelnyine vv vvusr lg’’truiorinmrnayFussemeCiSPeloa otfaaaruaamtiatitsi retl caseud agrm pnnni us ti’’’iia TuVeE’iCa Wihctuueos.o’’nrolast ’aa)tua aaooiiskhesbc’ )) aiiaI ))eRh n aaatonaoFGlr’ttrocgiKi tfpeokss l)auLn ehg net hrrILgaooO aI auya ua ik sEeaaataes Bidoeos.osno oIkrt nbnwl l)Rr gl c saNf Fe eipdodd BuGar(se IagqG eloca AaIat lpe SSgte’n a(eC nunAreumss cdnroutmgcp8gnmeendanaooaeeeelala Eknihe1o 0i acLd ro mtsioass(lmLzx5eByc siloymsyp;hnCFn O tnzi roh 2(Etl n,emoo‘e s1a ol inu,AopdhhgHda;F bcciCp7skfa lhofnoxd6 t aoPaor aeagsuo1 oacoiiiaAenaumndgnu4l ;alusa)etn-husr aeaec.e r)T,Ra; tggLsse H ( sn tdstiextoFRhto ope eoisefh( dri wiavann(e ao1h ousp snP (e (pw(irl3g rertnieo7pspte Rapaet1oe l0aai r4a.ar6 1 tl3 g1hen t(jaetti ;t;iIi2nu9o4cp sonm3a eot’.r tSi(6 ans) 0;r1op; n a(up ma itote;t1wgt;utna e p1ve 8,so aa) irl9adarimpbg;n b)tme sii5 hhuh’ngofdtai;ue)s tata u’r ot rfnn kbto!roe edf er t - THfntsTAEIeaicgpibephprptcTOrhaiSMmdaaAAUioistssnnorifaetwhoxxnnnllualloooeai sn lmnSeiasluraaoomtnlgsihymppahxem ccnvlrp cdd eNadi oe agy oictTidm ogacngmeitleeR sngmud tgprho drseoteiwom puylukeca ehst erohdetsn yoa.ialstbeaaesr tom sftitn r gd a veoeshenmc sM nyoeceeio Cwirtiuioaoe auadrometrnrt a r,nuoaho nao adrigL ‘iriien nerstv or-farogtna nansi tnttulgtowercimeh aceoorany.eeeatsd nnlhiooAlcng te,o st gonetaoymodradsdifl hom.oih n ’tor iye ce ilam nnsto‘nnn letutp tv o nTrseaomfoo socrgtcit emakhreu,ttth da.aunrmroon’uon os theo col atnohlatna ebeOinmdnreas nso:s a r abdgsrn tai kIe trbae wt u latv. c icml’ef csrnlhyuS r toc , eiss cbeimson e sqe Elnytsemaa nduHceaoaha.m co.a s fe ,u i y.btulacdnl’lmve x slurdakt oSdaou nlrghaalart mprav eoeioro pg-snt oi,wfruetmo’A rceleom maoadpcliermatwSa eealmm ksn ibcord tes oprfen eiio,dmCsaconbheio aytadnsetlyiarmctoa etesregtd-m ur to o fgmyie.ss-hdalo lilcuytceim enrtvitetla.l ,oueasbcE i asn leeo s toeopeydooaraonmtvebIe unak te irpnarnut-adama rtl- fkie dicgerrnapdesuei i cnhc qet’o i nc lfsnitydsnV u’rp trrcnhl e ahsra n,ieu oidi ltaoooa ser srhntncarre.,syaeesm ha ud ema;nu ie nsscoel ,slv ctr dna gt oad eieefntfomheoln advtga hroiaoane iiand ctn,vlhlrturoyeoih’oaes robfhyrtuolladdelgeastot- olam nynnnle oat-l aliac.rpt mleoev neoaer.u seyggsd tcnece ot(Fndr l eicui cfmclr ghraa eh laeooen ndaaasomhs hsoecyono hiwtlwcltur nuttnnefgrso.oo recaaouule aeau ahigt ’ty-llndOdsaicminvntdwut psisyyt-cc-loa -neel )f yo d-rn ss-e tos-i- ir e -t. t o , f dh MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES ©TFagsbGIyttfTOtparrhofho cuoea nomoonehytua rceonpa iro gbk tsnivaueelitdhuatbeacii n thst gre rayaynhaCai haso ,r ielb anery mnaeubgsopeonuod c gusr saamutdk oeo eotAirpgrg n scB meaotpk lui e. hherttdrareteosun u eei i IBsi s clst ativhtieiaesye&nddmhedxo.s klt tBoep,scrriaiga utt,re.iueo geegasnsaDrlef,ldutteni l teeausldd sigtyhbtncyn ro–a iuseo acdgnray rdelcm ottg o raog eme wlpasftmxeasr .ctiiptnaiogilk pdo el’amhtT sl-rncn eb towii ets deabnnber on cie g tewnrRwkcaa ar aeh icatnyibn thehrtw -ahylroare-yceo iuds- tk uenh - , SSdtmwttaATovtTIdsosahhhofeofnnriaaah os aooumemaaasmmttod eioTp siitttrtpnmf rooi ecdtuoiobeocc-e tsnnhetpernsataugoai’mhsuos eino’erdsmnniis m iadnssiari a. ni adipcls nm bne saprtcrg di l,’sbeheogg,aolt ae aef f ae nrntiotpwraony Tnfe cha onfaaobrouresf,kh pnetm taruonellesu upyhrelmd Samuratveve car e yrceodr atetpt ctaeafohwrearrif roka ’mn dbuaoyn iomib reif(’eubodug’attfap rurbtb hs7w doinen tlytdlo2t,jue hd i ghdo ig)pnhbgn,o,osaee y ieeaAo eaeeingfn. tf dni btlr atfo- oTtsaesu a gseeecsratbntislht,casu .mhys,c yy p kstTestleafc-i l e r,uprabowet scrobtisehhlptnl uacvme.eoa e e atopaahmga AvcChsatmmrcoaoceco tte erym rhounos roherm t.kthue pms h dioaTIbtjessanclouehssalel.mhsatcg-ii ttsann ukrne t itdonat orsos dsya-ee n s PLAN YOUR TRIP Which island?31
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to Rarotonga,
Samoa & Tonga
Adrift on these daydreamy South
Pacific islands – deliciously remote and
unhurried – it’s easy to get back to the
simple pleasures of eating, sleeping and
succumbing to holiday whims.
South Seas Dreaming Island Time
Perpetuated by Hollywood, the paradisiacal Through the conduit of snorkelling, diving,
reputation of this part of the South Pacific sailing, swimming, hiking, drinking, feast-
can be traced back to the tales of returned ing and talking about nothing in particular
European explorers. These nations have with loquacious locals, visitors to these
modernised since then, but their allure is islands quickly change down a gear or two
undiminished: you’ll still find gin-clear and slip into island time. Indeed, time here
waters and gardenia-scented air. But what’s is a flexible commodity, and days roll in and
most amazing is how untainted by tourism out on the tide. One day you’re exploring
most of the islands are. Blame it on remote- vanilla-bean plantations, snorkelling with
ness, blame it on air fares, but few people tropical fish, swimming in sunken caves
who fantasise about the South Seas ever and dancing at a bar, and the next a plane
actually make the journey. This is the true is waiting to jet you back home. The trick is
gift of these Polynesian isles: here’s your to go with the flow – don’t stress too much
chance to get right off the tourism grid. if things don’t happen precisely when you
expect them to.
Polynesian Ways
Dinner Is Served
These cultures are so idiosyncratic that
almost every encounter yields a memorable These South Pacific islands don’t have a
moment. Locals burst into song in public, great rep for fine food and wine. But side-
and on Sundays the singing in church raises step the Westernised resort restaurants
the roof. Villagers casually swing bush and be adventurous: you’ll find hearty local
knives by their sides as they walk along; stews cooked with coconut milk, fabulous
kids sit on the scuffed tombs of their rela- fresh seafood (how’s that lobster?) and even
tives as if they were outdoor furniture; and the odd peppy Chinese noodle soup. And
games of rugby and volleyball erupt with who needs shiraz when the weather is this
gladiatorial intensity on threadbare patches humid? Sip a cold local lager instead – it’s
of grass. Locals sell traditional handicrafts the perfect thirst quencher as the sun sets
such as tapa cloth, woven mats, baskets and on another day in the promised land.
carvings by the roadside, as hotted-up cars
scoot past with Polynesian hip-hop blaring.
5
ZSTOCKPHOTOS / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga
By Charles Rawlings-Way, Writer
Sure, you’ve got the palm trees, the seafood, the hypercoloured reefs, the sweet scent of
hibiscus on the evening breeze… But the best thing about Rarotonga, Samoa and Tonga is
the pace of life here – or rather, the lack of pace. I spend most of my time careening around
Australia’s big cities, drinking too much coffee and talking a lot. Every slowed-down trip I
make to these islands is an antidote to the mayhem, extending my allocated time on this
lonely planet by unknown years.
For more about our writers, see page 256
Above: Samoa (p98)
Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga
Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga
170ºW 160ºW
TOKELAU
(New Zealand) 0 200 km
0 120 miles
(Islands not to Scale) Penrhyn
10ºS
Rakahanga
Cape Mulinu’u Manihiki
Gateway to the
underworld (p131) AMERICAN Pukapuka NORTHERN
SAMOA Nassau COOK
(USA)
SAMOA ISLANDS
SOUTH
PACIFIC
Savaaii'i 'Upolu PAGO OCEAN Suwarrow
PAGO
APIA
See 'Upolu Ofu Beach Aitutaki
Enlargement See Tutuila Isolated and beautiful Cook Islands
Enlargement (p157) cultural shows (p70)
Vava'u COOK
ISLANDS
Neiafu
ne Photogenic harbour,
HGAR'OAPUAPI nal Date Li buzzy bars (p186) APatolmllerston SOOIISSCCUULOTTAHONEKDRSN
20ºS nternatio NIUE Astonbiisrhd‘ilAniftgei uc(pa7v7e)s and Aitutaki TTaakkuuMteaanuaMe itiaro
I ‘Attiiu
TONGA
Ma'uke
Tongatapu
Ha’apai
NUKU'ALOFA Rarotonga AVARUA
Sea kayaking to isolated
See Tongatapu isles (p180) See Rarotonga
Enlargement Enlargement
Mangaia
Rarotonga
Punanga Nui Market
Polynesian produce
Rarotonga Ara ahoy! (p51)
Black InternAatiiropnNoaritlka'oMa(u1n54gmap)ikTRoadpuAvatiu AVARUPPPPPAuuuuee AraMeAturaa Tapu
RoHckospital Te Kaki MotuValleyAVvaallteiyu TaVkuavllae'yine Matavera
HillPToer Ra e(i4n3g8am( 3o)44m) yppaH MBlauuffn (g3a4t0ema)'I(kT4u8er5 Mamna)gniga O(2r9o2enmg)aT(e2 T35amng)a MWaatllavera
AraTapu'AroranRg(a3ie6m5mar)u M(50a9umng)aroaM(a5u2n3gmat)ea (653m)Te (V4a5a0kma)uta Ngatangi'iaHAavrabnouar
SOUTH Ara Northern Ridge T(eT Rheu aN Meedanleg)aTe Ko'u Te( 6A3t8umku)ra Motutapu
PACIFIC Metua (413m) (588m) Takitumu Muri Oneroa
OCEAN KaveraM(22a2umng)atongaiti ConsAerrevaation Koromiri
Vaima'anga Tikioki Taakoka
AraMetua Titikaveka
Up aCnrdo osvse-Irs Rlaanrodt oTnrgaac k(p61) PapuPaassage AraTaAvpaauvaroPaassage TBiekaiockhiAra Metua
0 2 km
0 1 mile
'Upolu
Fale'ula
APIA
Manono Leulumoega
Vailele
Apolima-uta Solosolo
Manono-uta Falefa
Falelatai Mt F(9ia6m0moe) Sauniatu Saletele
Samamea
Mt Fito Uafato
Lefaga (1028m) Ti'avea
Salamumu Mulivai Samusu
Salani
Poutasi Satitoa
To Sua Ocean Trench Vavau
An enchanted ocean
sinkhole (p115)
0 20 km
0 12 miles
Pola Tutuila
Tal
Pago Pago Harbour
Kayak paddling and
super scenery (145) Vatia Sa'ilele Onenoa
Afono Masefau
Amouli
Aua Alofau Aunu'u
PAGO PAGO
Fagasa
A'asu Matafao Peak Lauli'ituai Aunu'u
Fagamalo (653m)
Nu'uuli
Poloa A'oloaufoMut Olotele Tafuna
Nua (493m)
Fagatele Bay National
Leone
'Ili'ili Marine Sanctuary
Critter-filled submerged
Vailoa Vaitogi volcanic crater (p150)
0 10 km
0 6 miles
Tongatapu
Ha'atafu Velitoa
Fafá Fukave
Ha'akili
Fo'ui Monu'afe KoPloinhgaa Passage 'Eue'iki
Fatai Puke NUKU'ALOFA Niutoua
Ha'utu Nukuleka
Tofoa Folaha
Hoi
Houma
Pe'a
Ha'akame
Vaini
Fatumu
Pelehake
Lavengatonga
Nuku’alofa
Raffish bars and rampant
royalty (p166) Fua'amotu
0 10 km
0 6 miles
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8
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