Raising Curious, Creative, Confident Kids The Pestalozzi Experiment in Child-Based Education Rebeca Wild CHAPTER ONE Before the Beginning It is 1982, two weeks after the start of summer vacation in the Ecuacdorean Andes. The dry season has suddenly set in just before the end of the school year. Rainless white clouds rush across a dark blue sky, driven by strong winds that relentlessly bend the slender eucalyptus trees from one side to the other. If you close your eyes, you can imagine yourself to be at the seashore—so loud is the roar of the wind through the long rows of trees that border the grounds of the Pestalozzi School.1 1. Swiss educator Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi (1741-1827) was a pioneer in articulating and implementing principles of developmental education and in his commitment to social justice——educating children from disadvantaged backgrounds in their native language, for example. Behind us he five very busy years of work. The construction of an alternative school, the blazing of new trails and the day-to-day routine of operation have taxed our strength as never before. The active system demands a high degree of preparation, an inexhaustible capacity for the new, and the continual invention, production, collection, organization, and maintenance of materials. The days seem too short, and there are not enough hands to realize the myriad ideas that often come into our minds in a rush while working with the children. During these last few years, I have felt the desire so many times to put some of our experiences into writing and share some of the wealth of observations we have made about “free” children. But this project kept being shelved, put aside for more urgent tasks: talks with parents; meetings with teachers; courses with teachers, parents, and students from different disciplines; discussions with Indian groups from remote parts of the country or with the Ministry of Education and Culture—an endless list of activities directly or indirectly related to the school that all absorbed our afternoons, evenings, and weekends. Yet my urge to share our experiences in Ecuador with our friends in Europe has become stronger and stronger in the last few months. More and more young people from many different nations have visited us recently. They raised many questions and showed that a certain dismay and confusion over the meaning and purpose of existing educational methods prevailed even in the developed countries. This impression was further confirmed by various European periodicals that happened to come to our attention in these months. This desire to communicate our experiences to our European friends in more detail than had previously been the case coincided with a growing personal need: by remembering, reflecting on, and setting down certain experiences, I wanted to achieve a better balance between our all-too-active life and a more contemplative one, to bring some order into my thoughts and feelings and perhaps gain some new insights here and there. Not long ago we welcomed a young friend from Hamburg who visited us during a trip through South America from which he hoped to gain new perspectives and make a decision about what to study. His first impressions here led him to the conclusion that this type of work could never be achieved through the initiative of a few lone individuals. Only after hearing from us at length about the founding of Pesta did it become clear to him that this was no institution but a project of work that had grown organically out of the interaction between internal and external needs and that was still very much in progress. It is a project of a highly personal nature, closely linked to our own personal life histories and to a process of maturing familiar to all who, in dealing with their own children or others, have come to question the meaning of education. In order to fill in the background of our experiences and clarify just how the connecting of inner and outer worlds became an orientation for us, I will turn back the clock to the year 1959. It was a sunny September morning in southern Germany, at the end of the summer vacation season, during which I was earning a bit of extra money to help finance my German philology studies by working as an impromptu tour guide. On that particular day I had been assigned to a tour bus going to the Bavarian castle of Neusch-wanstein with forty visitors from all corners of the globe looking forward to a pleasant day. While the tourists took in the rococo wonders of the architecture, the guides from the various buses lunched on prosaic cheese sandwiches. Among them was a young man who had already shown himself to be looking for some fun and games and now seemed intent on disturbing my peace on this Sunday. Slightly annoyed, I was trying to fend off his unpleasant advances when a somewhat foreign- looking young man of about my age whom I had not seen before among the guides suddenly appeared at my side. I have since forgotten what it was he said but not the effect that his quiet voice had upon the obnoxious tour guide. There was a particular authority about him that made my tormentor unsure of himself and caused him to back off. I gave the stranger a look of thanks and felt suddenly touched by his presence: this was a man who, in an unusual way, was simply himself. His facial expression, his bearing, his tone of voice, and his choice of clothing all indicated harmony and a natural, easy way of evaluating situations. We met again down at a lake called the Alpsee. Given the splendor of this lovely late summer day, we decided to row out on the lake and leave the tourists to admire the castle on their own. We spent a pleasant hour indulging in small talk and laughter. Before we returned to our respective buses, the new guide, who in the meantime had introduced himself with a foreign first name and a Germ an-sounding last name, invited me to go to the cinema with him and succeeded in taking my telephone number. This subse- quent date to go to the movies turned into a three-hour walk through the streets of Munich. It was then that I learned that Mauricio Wild was born in Ecuador of Swiss parents and had come to Switzerland at the age of twelve for further schooling but had never been able to adapt himself completely; thus, six years later he had begun traveling around Europe. He took on odd jobs when his money ran out and learned several languages, hut above all he was in quest of an identity that, after the contrasts of his childhood in Ecuador, his youth in Switzerland, and his years of travel, had eluded him and demanded to be found. It was already during this first walk together that we talked about “learning to be oneself” and “seeking authenticity, the true self” or “being honest with oneself”: terms that might seem overly philosophical for twenty- year-olds but that corresponded perfectly to our frame of mind at the time. My childhood during the war years had taught me to live every day to the fullest in spite of fear and insecurity. My school years, however, often obscured the need for an authentic sense of life and hindered more than promoted true understanding and clarity in thinking and feeling. During my studies at university, Romano Guardini’s lectures on Plato had more meaning for me than my required courses in philology. In those few weeks Mauricio and I enjoyed together during that sunny Indian summer, 1 was impressed over and over again by his clarity and certainty in thought and feeling, quite in contrast to the uncertainty of his external circumstances. My own conviction of being exactly sure of what I wanted in life was considerably shaken by our encounter. And suddenly the idea of a journey leading both inwardly and outwardly into the unknown seemed to me more real than my previous goals. Three weeks later, when the tourist season came to an end, we parted ways. Mauricio wanted to commence a long hiking trip through Italy to Africa that autumn, while I returned to my studies of German philology, which soon occupied my full attention—save for the unforeseen distraction offered by regular letters from Italy. The letters, full of travel impressions and personal reflections, entailed no response, since the writer had no fixed address and could not he reached by mail. Then, however, shortly before Christmas, Mauricio suddenly interrupted his travels and returned to Switzerland. A friend of his who was paralyzed—and who painted with his mouth—had asked Mauricio to undertake his care for a few months to replace his father, who had injured his back with the constant lifting. And thus it happened that letters began to arrive with a return address, enabling me to write back, and in the following winter months we were able to visit each other a number of times. During this period of time, our plan to venture a life together in Mauricio’s native Ecuador gradually took on clearer contours. We thought that perhaps there we would find more freedom of movement and opportunity, freedom to make our own decisions, than in Europe, and that these circumstances would help us in our common quest for an authentic life. In 1960 Mauricio returned to Ecuador. I went to join him there in July 1961, to embark on a journey into the unknown, a journey that is still in progress today. Whoever has traveled to South America has surely experienced the feeling of arriving in a country where everything is different from what one has known at home: from things such as the air, the smells, the sounds, the language, the food, and the feeling for time to the sense of what is important or unimportant, what is cause for laughter or for tears, how one walks or dances. There is such a different feeling for life that many tour- ists, after having seen the obligatory sights and snapped a sufficient number of pictures, withdraw in exhaustion back to the neutral atmosphere of a hotel. As I mounted the watch one long, sunny tropical afternoon on the deck of a banana-bearing steamboat that had come in on the Rio Guayas to see if Mauricio—whom I had not seen for a year and a half—would finally appear from one of the many docked boats, I was still floating between two worlds: on the one hand, the spotless white German steamer that had all the elements of my familiar and comfortable world, and on the other, not far away, this strange land that was supposed to become my home in the future. Now and then a ship’s officer or steward would come by, gesticulate toward the brown river and nearby Guayaquil, which boasted few modern buildings at the time, and exclaim, “You’d be better off coming back with us. This is a filthy country. The people here are just primitive rabble. You certainly won’t adapt to it!” The idea was not far from my mind, as Mauricio still had not shown up. The explanations that usually come to mind in such situations of waiting could take no clear shape, since I did not have the slightest idea under what circumstances, that is to say, how and when he would finally appear in flesh and blood. In the letters that had arrived frequently and regularly in the long months of our separation, he had made only passing mention of the external conditions of life in Ecuador, just enough to create a backdrop for his inner preoccupations. He wrote in one letter, “If you expect to find anything that is beautiful and familiar here, then stay where you are. Expect nothing but my love and the hope that, together, we will be able to accomplish something that, as yet, remains unknown.” Or course, at our age of twenty-two, we had only a vague notion of what the reality of this would be; however, we assumed that the way that lay before us would have both an inner and an outer direction. Our ideas were rooted in the Christian tradition and the mystics as well as in the wisdom of the East and the psychology of C. G. Jung. Even if orientation was difficult for us in this apparent chaos, we were confident that unexpected doors would open for us. Our first encounter after this long period of writing letters and speculating about our common path was less festive than (characteristically!) turbulent. Mauricio had inquired about the arrival date of the Perikles in good time and even driven the two hundred kilometers from Quevedo to Guayaquil one day earlier to have his less-than-new Volkswagen van overhauled in the garage. But the Perikles had arrived a day ahead of schedule, in time for a planned harbor celebration for banana shippers, which was to be held onboard the ship. Mauricio, still dusty from his long drive, had just left the car at its repair shop and was making his way along the docks back to the hotel for the evening when he noticed the newly arrived ship in the distance. He counted the number of letters in the ship’s name, and they agreed with the name of the Perikles. He began to run until he could read the ship’s name clearly and immediately hailed a boat. On the ship’s ladder he ran into the duty officer on watch, who did not want to let anyone on board at that hour, but he managed to win the argument. As for me, with the onset of night I had given up my wait on the upper deck and invited an Englishwoman with whom I had become friendly during the three-week crossing to open a bottle of wine with me. Just then I heard my name being called and started to run toward the ship’s exit. For fear of thieves, all the doors onboard were carefully locked. I had to beg someone to open every door for me, which was then shut tight behind me again. Mauricio was going through the same thing on the lower deck. What a miracle it seemed when, after this endless opening and closing of doors and before the eyes of the astonished steward, we finally fell into each other’s arms! And then we were in a hurry to leave the ship. When I set foot on land, a welter of sensations and impressions of the most unusual kinds assailed me. In those few days in Guayaquil, we went shopping to buy what we believed to be the essentials for our young household. Our purchases were rather modest, yet they made quite a load for the VW van. Finally we were ready to leave for Quevedo, which was to be the location of our first domicile. At that time it was a small town, center of export for the banana trade and sur- rounded in all directions by jungle. For the first time in my life, I drove past broad rice fields, fields flooded by the rivers all year-round, where cows and horses stood up to their fetlocks in water, looking for fodder on small green islands. In every village, we were overwhelmed by a noisy avalanche of merchants wanting to sell us provisions for the rest of the trip. Other than hard-boiled eggs, none of the dishes offered were recognizable to me as edible. The trip went on through plantations with mixed produce, the plants of which I saw for the first time: mango trees, coffee, cocoa, tapioca, and then the first bananas. After four hours we reached our destination; Quevedo had a population of just under seven thousand inhabitants at that time. From the height of the road, one had a view overlooking the whole town. The first thing we noticed was a small water tower, which was supposed to supply the town with drinking water; however, it did so only once in a while. I could compare the whole appearance of the town only to pictures of the Wild West, the only difference being that most of the houses were built of bamboo, which gave them a tropical look. Among these bamboo huts were a few houses of brick and wood, and a very few cement houses. The streets were unpaved, and since it was the dry season, every vehicle raised huge clouds of dust, against which pedestrians tried to protect themselves by means of handkerchiefs pressed to their faces. In the rainy season this dust metamorphosed into—as I was later to learn—thick mud that required of pedestrians feats of Olympian proportions m jumping, leaping, and evading. In these surroundings the small half-naked children of Quevedo were obviously and surprisingly quite at home, together with pigs, dogs, and chickens. They ran away in all directions only when a banana truck or a jeep disputed their right to the street. Our first apartment was located on the second floor of one of the “better” houses in Quevedo. Below us on the ground floor was a small store where the necessities of life could be bought. There lived the proprietor of the store as well, a friendly grandfather, with his children and numerous grandchildren. They seemed to be a happy family, even though their worldly possessions consisted of a few beds, a wobbly table, and two hammocks. On the upper floor they had constructed the simple apartment where we lived; Mauricio had paid a pretty penny to have running water installed, which worked only sporadically. Our first supper in the only Chinese restaurant in Quevedo and a short walk around the town, which awoke to noisy liveliness in the evening, were soon finished. The apartment furnishings were simple enough and the move into our new home quickly completed: a table and four chairs and a comfortable hammock, a shelf of simple wood hung on the wall with chains to provide a place for our books and the record player, on the wall some pictures that had been wedding presents from our handicapped friend in Switzerland who painted by mouth. A bed, a wardrobe, and a chair furnished the bedroom; its most attractive decoration was a large white mosquito net. In the kitchen were more handmade shelves for the basic necessities in the way of household utensils, a kerosene stove, and a washing trough made of wood. In these plain and simple rooms, our modest wedding festivities took place, with a few friends. We did not regard our circumstances as poverty because we felt ourselves to be rich, and no one was bothered by these homely surroundings, since, with only a few exceptions, everyone in the country lived like this. When we think back to our first year of marriage, it seems like a year of vacation to us. It was our ideal to get along with the absolute minimum of external luxury. This minimum was covered by the income from a wood business that worked in the following way: Every once in a while. Mauricio went off into the jungle with a group of young people in order to locate and estimate the volume of certain woods that a lumber dealer in Guayaquil who was a friend of his had promised to buy from him. The young men then made a trip into the jungle every day, loaded as much as they could onto their antediluvian vehicle, and came back into Quevedo with their load of wood around four in the afternoon, making a great commotion. Then we went down to the nearby river by bicycle to measure, appraise, and pay for the logs before they were unloaded at the edge of the broad river and tied together. And so, in the course of days of work, we had an impressive float, which could be taken downriver to Guayaquil when the rains set in, an adventurous trip lasting several days. In the early sixties, life in Ecuador was unbelievably cheap. We spent the equivalent of one or two German marks (about a dollar at the time of this writing) a day for food; equally cheap were our rent, gasoline, and travel. A bus ticket to Guayaquil two hundred kilometers away cost about one mark at that time. This simple life was exactly what we wanted. We felt free, free to spend our days just as we liked. At sunrise we rode our bicycles upriver. where the water was still crystal clear and deep, and bathed and swam to our heart’s content. Back at home we did a considerable number of yoga exercises. Then we had a simple breakfast consisting of fruits, oatmeal, and roasted barley. While I put my limited school Spanish into practice at the market and made my first independent attempts at cooking on the kerosene stove (which kept blackening the pots), Mauricio devoted himself to his autodidactic studies in the held of comparative religions and learned to type as well as to play the flute. The afternoon was reserved for reading and learning Spanish. After our daily work at the riverside measuring logs, we often bathed in the river again under the hot afternoon sun. After supper we frequently had long conversations in the hammock, visited friends, or had them to visit at our place. Occasionally we went to a movie at the only cinema in town, in which the loudspeakers hummed so loudly that it was impossible to understand the spoken word—one had to depend on the subtitles. We did not worry about the future; we lived from day to day, as only seems possible in the tropics, and enjoyed a life without the pressures of responsibility that was devoted entirely to our own personal interests. The idyll was interrupted only by occasional explorative trips into the jungle and short journeys to Guayaquil on business. And yet, little by little, we began to feel certain uneasiness, a slight disquiet. The avoidance of “worldly tumult” or the necessity to earn more money no more brought us to the “inner way” that we longed for than did the daily yoga exercises or the reading of books describing such ways, it seemed. No baby was on the way, which would have demanded greater responsibility from us. Gradually our breakfast granola began to lose its flavor, and we began to droop more and more, from doing almost nothing. Or was it just the hot rainy season that was robbing us of our strength? But in what direction were we to seek meaning and enrichment? In the course of time, we took on a bit more work: private lessons in English and music for interested villagers. However, in reality we waited, without knowing what we were waiting for. Around this time we became friends with a Dutch family who lived not far from Quevedo on a large farm that consisted of—in the typical style of the Dutch in Indonesia—several tasteful houses with tropical gardens around them. The farm was completely surrounded by jungle; on approximately thirteen hundred hectares (a hectare is just under two and a half acres) were planted bananas and cocoa. During one of our visits, our Dutch friend cautiously inquired of Mauricio whether he might be interested in taking over his position in the management of this farm so that he would he free to accept an interesting job offer in Surinam. This friend could only terminate his contract in Ecuador if he found a successor. We were full of objections: Mauricio had no idea of tropical agriculture, pesticides, export, or the administration of a plantation. But our friend brushed aside all our doubts. He himself, as he told us, had studied agriculture, but his real learning had only begun when he left theory and got into practice. In addition, a friend of his, a biologist, could fly over from another farm once a month and give Mauricio an introduction to the most important Techniques of plant protection. This is typical of Ecuador: only two weeks later we accompanied our friend to the airport and moved to the farm with all our paltry possessions from our first household. The spacious house there was equipped with all the necessities, and suddenly we found ourselves in a “larger” world—our horizons had broadened. At twenty-three Mauricio was suddenly a man with much responsibility. With great enthusiasm, we learned about everything that now was part of our new field of work: the planting, cultivation, and protection of one thousand hectares of bananas and three hundred hectares of cocoa, then the supervision of the harvests (consignments of thirty thousand to fifty thousand bunches of bananas of different degrees of ripeness were shipped to Germany, the United States, and Japan every month) and the organization of the transport by truck to Guayaquil, 250 kilometers away, over roads often washed out by tropical rainfalls. For all these tasks, including the care of the still young cocoa plantation, Mauricio had about one hundred workers, who lived in three camps. One of the most serious responsibilities was the daily estimate of the bananas to be harvested, which had to be made to our agent in Guayaquil by shortwave radio; on this estimate depended to a great extent the financial success of the farm. All these responsibilities had the heady effect of an elixir of life on us. We felt so much more alive. There was work of all kinds to he done. Every day we learned something new. We came to like our very social life with our Dutch neighbors. Often came cars full of unannounced visitors who wanted to spend a nice day or even a week of vacation with us. Fortunately for us it was not a problem to feed all these unexpected visitors, because when they went around the plantation, they stuffed themselves so full or our wonderful bananas that they could eat only small servings at meats. During this time we had innumerable celebrations on the farm: at the birth of a child, weddings, all kinds of occasions and festivities. There were typical dances, loud music, cheers called out: the festive party atmosphere that is only imaginable in South American countries. And even on the quiet evenings that we spent alone in the farmhouse, we were surrounded by the natural
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