Qmin : a fresh new approach to Indian cuisine

208 Pages·2008·3.44 MB·English

by  Ashokan

Qmin
Dedicated to my mother, Leela
Qmin

A fresh new approach to Indian cuisine
anil ashokan
photography by greg elms
First published in 2008
Copyright © Anil Ashokan 2008
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Cataloguing-in-Publication entry:
Ashokan, Anil.
Qmin : a fresh new approach to Indian cuisine.
Includes index.
ISBN 9781741750669 (pbk.).
1. Cookery, Indian. I. Title.
641.5954
Photography by Greg Elms
Food styled by Virginia Dowzer
Edited by Susin Chow
Indexed by Trevor Matthews
Text designed and typeset by Nada Backovic Designs
Printed and bound in Malaysia by Imago
Our thanks to Empire 111 for the generous loan of the crockery used in the photography.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
C o n t e n t s
The fresh approach 1
Seafood 11
Poultry 35
Lamb 57
Other meats 81
Vegetables 99
Breads 129
Rice 145
Desserts 159
Accompaniments 177
A meal plan 192
Glossary 195
Index 196

T H E F R E S H A P P R O A C H
i n d i a n c u i s i n e :
t h e Q m i n p e r s p e c t i v e
After love there is only cuisine.
ChArL I E T r OT T Er
Food is central to Indian culture. It’s an integral part of daily life and dominates much of
our conversation.
Like all other old-world cuisines, Indian cuisine has had an interesting evolution.
What began as home cooking became different regional ‘styles’ that were then influenced
to different extents by traders and invaders like the French, British, Dutch, Portuguese,
Arabs, Persians and Chinese. Taste, colour and texture are determined by the available
ingredients of the region, and this can vary enormously within the space of a few
kilometres.
Today when I am asked to describe the nature of Indian cuisine, I find it most useful
to simply compare it to European cuisine: its variety as contrasting from region to region
as, say, French is to German or Spanish to Italian.
One of the biggest challenges in compiling a collection like this is that on the
whole, traditional recipes have never been written down. Family secrets, special tricks,
closely held traditions and beliefs have meant recipes and methodologies have not been
precisely documented so universal standards are often vague. Fortunately there are
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some fundamental rules to the preparation of most classical dishes. For example, the
internationally famous North Indian dish ‘Butter chicken’ always has tomato and would
never have creamed corn as the base.
What’s more, because masters of the art avoided recording their works for fear of
losing their secrets, as a cuisine it is largely misunderstood and misinterpreted outside
the country. The words ‘hot’, ‘spicy’ and ‘curry’ are used the world over in relation to
Indian food; the words ‘pungent’ and ‘aromatic’ less so, though they are probably more
appropriate. But times are changing.
For centuries cooking methods have involved a long list of ingredients and hours of
intensive labour to produce a meal—both things that the modern cook lacks. My aim is
to maintain the authenticity of traditional flavours without having to resort to shortcuts
like boiling up curry powders. I like to promote new techniques, products and appliances
to simplify the process and I always encourage exploration and experimentation with
the best and freshest ingredients available.
I believe that looking back at the evolution of this cuisine is intrinsic to understanding
it. I also believe in furthering that evolution.
Over the years I have arrived at the idea of representing certain dishes in a set
style by combining a number of different interpretations, with an eye to simplifying
preparation and enhancing flexibility. With this in mind I have included tips and special
notes suggesting you try different flavours, using your own local produce or perhaps
healthier alternative ingredients.
Although a meal may comprise several recipes on one plate, I would never suggest
cooking a North Indian fish and smothering it with, say, a South Indian style sauce.
So please do not mistake this as ‘fusion’ food. All the recipes are based on authentic
ingredients for the cuisine without introducing any foreign influences. however, I may
suggest a more locally available fish, or an easier or more accessible cooking method.
For me, one of the greatest pleasures in cooking is to express yourself in the dish, to
find your creativity and sensuality in the choices you make and the way you prepare it.
Use this book as an inspirational starting point or a step-by-step guide—it’s up to you!
e v o l u t i o n o f m y a p p r o a c h
Born into a working-class family in an average Bombay suburb, I had no official links
with the culinary world. Yet my mother was truly one of my greatest inspirations. With
limited resources she turned out the most wonderful meals on her little kerosene-fired
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