EYEWITNESS TRAVEL 10 TOP PUERTO RICO 10 LPauC dAeMMerPtu OoC rDrauErLlil lqtMauOurReaROñBaClBaaPEBnLNsACEEcaOZNFRaAIPDLLEC EDLAEFaRAEN IOR ZCLCFOUAEIAoG EN LArCATtIIH RaEOVDCASINPITATlOAE LOe E S TSE zALaNAdMSS e OSMlu ELONsB lNaeiPACñSJAsoLaAASLE o N SPr T qDJIaELOLC Au la SCoRSNeaÉIBS T mO Pat daenraeudi nstJriucasealt PasndaaSeANb JOSlÉ o RCAPaFLAAnsAERaLZM CAlsAO CRDUSRZ D EE RO FORSATTN JEAUSTOTL UEZAAN LUS 1111100000 FUCBFaaenobssslctopu ioulonoruaiufltuetdsildn obfg eone srama tiatcvuuachsreteelisv us ti &mrtaie sinsl s &a t iaornt agl ahlolelirdieasy s 10 Most fun places for children 10 Best hotels for every budget 10 Liveliest bars 10 Top restaurants in each area 10 Insider tips for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING TOP10 PUERTO RICO CHRISTOPHER P BAKER EYEWITNESS TRAVEL s Left Old San Juan Centre Bacardi Rum’s logo Right Parque Ceremonial Indígena Caguana t n e Contents t n o C Puerto Rico’s Top 10 Old San Juan 8 Design, Editorial and Picture Research by Quadrum Solutions, Krishnamai, 33B, Castillo de San Cristóbal 10 Sir Pochkanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai, India Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Condado 12 Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd El Yunque 14 First published in Great Britain in 2009 by Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand, Vieques 16 London WC2R 0RL, A Penguin Company 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Culebra 18 Reprinted with revisions 2011 Copyright 2009, 2011 © Dorling Kindersley Parque de las Cavernas Limited, London del Río Camuy 20 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any Centro Ceremonial means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior Indígena de Tibes 22 written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. San Germán 24 ISBN 978 1 4053 6101 9 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no Museo de Arte de Ponce 26 hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Moments in History 30 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage, Museums 32 ie the “first floor” is at ground level. Musicians 34 Outdoor Activities 36 Beaches 38 Festivals and Holidays 42 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, or email: [email protected]. Cover: Front - Alamy Images: Mark Bacon bl; Photolibrary: age fotostock/S Murphy-Larronde main. Spine - DK Images: Linda Whitwam b. Back - DK Images: Linda Whitwam tc, tl, tr. 2 Left Arecibo Observatory Centre Museo Indígena Cemí Right Castillo de San Cristóbal’s entrance C o n Children’s Attractions 44 Arriving in Puerto Rico 104 t e Places to Shop 46 Getting Around 105 n t Restaurants 48 s Sources of Information 106 Puerto Rican Dishes 50 Banking and Trees and Flowers 52 Communications 107 Animal Life 54 Security and Health 108 Around Puerto Rico Things to Avoid 109 San Juan 58 Tours and Special North Coast 66 Interests 110 West Coast 72 Budget Tips 111 South Coast 82 The Cordillera 88 Eating and East Coast & Islands 94 Accommodation Tips 112 Places to Stay 113 Streetsmart Planning Your Trip 102 General Index 118 General Information 103 Phrase Book 126 Left Scenic Playa Flamenco Right Vejigantes, Carnaval Ponceño Key to abbreviations 3 Adm admission charge PUERTO RICO’S TOP 10 Puerto Rico’s Highlights 6–7 P Old San Juan U 8–9 E Castillo de San Cristóbal R 10–11 T Condado O 12–13 El Yunque R 14–15I C Vieques O 16–17 ’ Culebra S 18–19 T Parque de las Cavernas O del Río Camuy 20–21P Centro Ceremonial 1 Indígena de Tibes 0 22–23 San Germán 24–25 Museo de Arte de Ponce 26–27 Top Ten of Everything 30–55 Puerto Rico’s Highlights Puerto Rico packs tremendous diversity into a relatively small space. From exquisite coral reefs and white-sand beaches to lush rain forests, desert-dry coastal plains, and a rugged mountain spine, this isle enraptures with physical 0 1 beauty. Past and present intertwine too, as pre-Columbian sites, massive castles, and charming colonial buildings contrast with hip restaurants, hotels, p o and nightclubs. Spanish-speaking yet inarguably American in style, the people T are equally diverse, reflecting a potpourri of bloodlines – indigenous, African, s and European – and a creativity expressed in colorful culture and arts. ’ o c ! Old San Juan Ri This blue-cobbled historic district of restored colonial o buildings is the jewel in the t capital city’s crown. Its delightful r e plazas, centuries-old cathedrals, u and dramatic castles are well- P preserved reminders of a bygone era (see pp8–9). (cid:44)(cid:86)(cid:68)(cid:69)(cid:72)(cid:79)(cid:68) (cid:43)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:79)(cid:79)(cid:82) (cid:36)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:70)(cid:76)(cid:69)(cid:82) (cid:57)(cid:72)(cid:74)(cid:68)(cid:3)(cid:37)(cid:68)(cid:77)(cid:68) (cid:39)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:71)(cid:82) (cid:36)(cid:74)(cid:88)(cid:68)(cid:71)(cid:76)(cid:79)(cid:79)(cid:68) (cid:36)(cid:74)(cid:88)(cid:68)(cid:71)(cid:68) (cid:48)(cid:82)(cid:70)(cid:68) (cid:79)(cid:68)(cid:51)(cid:86)(cid:68)(cid:3)(cid:38)(cid:85)(cid:84)(cid:68)(cid:88)(cid:89)(cid:72)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:71)(cid:81)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:86) (cid:48)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:175) (cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:53)(cid:175)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:38)(cid:68)(cid:80)(cid:88)(cid:92) (cid:53)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:181)(cid:81) (cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:54)(cid:72)(cid:69)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:68)(cid:81) (cid:38)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:93)(cid:68)(cid:79) (cid:48)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:89)(cid:76)(cid:86) (cid:36)(cid:179)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:70)(cid:82) (cid:47)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:86) (cid:56)(cid:87)(cid:88)(cid:68)(cid:71)(cid:82) (cid:47)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:48)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:163)(cid:86) (cid:45)(cid:68)(cid:92)(cid:88)(cid:92)(cid:68) (cid:50)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:89)(cid:76)(cid:86) (cid:48)(cid:68)(cid:92)(cid:68)(cid:74)(cid:190)(cid:72)(cid:93) (cid:37)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:84)(cid:88)(cid:76)(cid:87)(cid:68)(cid:86) (cid:36)(cid:71)(cid:77)(cid:88)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:68)(cid:86) (cid:43)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:80)(cid:76)(cid:74)(cid:88)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:86) (cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:69)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:68) (cid:57)(cid:76)(cid:79)(cid:79)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:69)(cid:68) (cid:36)(cid:76)(cid:69)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:87)(cid:82) (cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:37)(cid:81)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:42)(cid:84)(cid:88)(cid:72)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:80)(cid:85)(cid:181)(cid:81)(cid:163)(cid:81) (cid:42)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:60)(cid:68)(cid:88)(cid:70)(cid:82) (cid:44)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:175)(cid:74)(cid:72)(cid:38)(cid:81)(cid:68)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:72)(cid:80)(cid:38)(cid:3)(cid:72)(cid:55)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:69)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:82)(cid:86)(cid:79) (cid:45)(cid:39)(cid:88)(cid:76)(cid:68)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:93)(cid:68) (cid:38)(cid:82)(cid:68)(cid:80)(cid:82) (cid:47)(cid:68) (cid:51)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:74)(cid:88)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:68) (cid:48)(cid:88)(cid:86)(cid:72)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:36)(cid:85)(cid:87)(cid:72) (cid:42)(cid:88)(cid:163)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:70)(cid:68) (cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:51)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72) (cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:68)(cid:86) £ Condado San Juan’s lively beach- front is lined with trendy cafés and restaurants, fashionable boutiques, and high-rise hotels interspersed with parks (see pp12–13). @ Castillo de San Cristóbal $ El Yunque This fortress, which The only tropical rain has been restored to forest within US territory its former grandeur, offers great hiking along has bulwarks looming mountain trails. Water- over the shoreline, falls and coquí frogs are cannons, and other among the many lures interesting exhibits of this natural paradise (see pp10–11). (see pp14–15). 6 Preceding pages Fortaleza San Felipe del Morro, Old San Juan % Vieques This island, off the east coast of Puerto Rico’s main island, is surrounded by idyllic beaches. It has become a magnet for independent travelers P seeking a laid-back lifestyle u and trendy boutique hotels e (see pp16–17). ^ Culebra rt Boasting the most spectacular beach in Puerto o Rico, this small island is popular with day-trippers R and is easily reached by ferry. It also delights i snorkelers and surfers (see pp18–19). c o Parque de las & ’s Cavernas del Río Camuy T o Only an hour’s drive p from the capital, the world’s third-largest 1 known cavern system 0 is accessible through guided tours. Flood- (cid:50)(cid:79)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:81) (cid:38)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:79)(cid:79)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:38)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:181)(cid:69)(cid:68)(cid:79) lights illuminate the (cid:45)(cid:88)(cid:68)(cid:81) (cid:38)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:68)(cid:71)(cid:82) dripstone formations (cid:47)(cid:82)(cid:175)(cid:93)(cid:68) (see pp20–21). 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It is the including works by perfect place to learn Rossetti, Constable, and about ancient Taíno Reynolds (see pp26–7). culture (see pp22–3). ( San Germán The best-preserved colonial town outside Old San Juan retains its yesteryear mood. Historic buildings here include Puerto Rico’s oldest church, which is full of interesting religious antiquities (see pp24–5). 7 Old San Juan Old San Juan (Viejo San Juan) is the historic heart of Puerto Rico’s capital city. This intimate quarter boasts an astonishing wealth of well-preserved forts, cathedrals, and convents, as well as colorful mansions and other 0 1 important buildings spanning five centuries. The footsteps of friars and conquistadores seem to echo down cobbled streets and plazas that exude p o plenty of colonial charm. Easily walkable, the narrow, shaded streets of T Old San Juan are lined with museums, hotels, restaurants, boutiques, and s trendy bars. No museum piece, this lively quarter is a thriving community ’ o where families gather to enjoy the irresistible ambience. c Ri Top 10 Features 1 Casa Blanca o t 2 Fortaleza San Felipe er del Morro u 3 Castillo de San Cristóbal P 4 Plaza de San José 5 Plaza del Inmigrante 6 Paseo de la Princesa Statue of an immigrant at Plaza del Inmigrante 7 Catedral de San Juan Baútista Shorts are fine for ex ploring the old city, 8 Plaza de Armas but should not be 9 Parque de las Palomas worn in churches or 0 Instituto de Cultura upscale restaurants. Puertorriqueña Women should cover their shoulders and ! Casa Blanca dress modestly when Considered the oldest entering churches. continually occupied structure in the western The El Patio de Sam hemisphere, Casa Blanca (see p64) is ideal for (1521) (below) was built for a cool drink, snack, Ponce de León (see p30). or simple meal. It now houses a museum. @ Fortaleza San Felipe del Morro • Casa Blanca: Map T5; This fort ress (main image) Calle San Sebastián 1; guards the entrance to San 787 725 1454; currently Juan’s harbor and took over closed for renovation 200 years to complete. Its • Fortaleza San Felipe stone ramparts rise six del Morro: Map S4; levels, and feature cannons Calle del Morro; that point out to sea. A 787 729 6777; open museum displays military 9am–5pm; adm $3 uniforms and weaponry. • Catedral de San Juan Castillo de # Baútista: Map U6; San Cristóbal Plazuela de la Monjas • Instituto de Cultura This massive fortress, built Puertorriqueña: Map T5; between 1634 and 1783, Calle del Morro; 787 724 fea tures seven convoluted 0700; open 8am–noon lines of defence connec ted & 1–4:30pm Mon–Fri; by moats and tunnels www.icp.gobierno.pr (right). It contains cannons as well as an interesting museum (see pp10–11). 8 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com