Promenades in Rome

509 Pages·1957·28.589 MB·English

by  Stendhal

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A ROMAN
I
N A L
by STENDHAL
edited and translated by HAAKON CHEVALIER
THE ORION PRESS: NEW YORK
distributed by Crown Publishers, Inc.
First printing
(Č) Copyright, 1957, by The Orion Press, Inc.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 57-13279
This translation is based on Henri Martineau’s critical edition of
PROMENADES DANS ROME
Designed by Charles Kaplan
Text printed and volume bound in The Netherlands:
Production: Timun Mas N.V., Amsterdam
Binding: van Rijmenam N.V., The Hague
Printing: N.V. Drukkerij Levisson, The Hague
Illustrations printed in Italy:
Officine Grafiche Nicola Moneta, Milan
CONTENTS
editor’s foreword XV
PREFATORY NOTE X
3
I. AUGUST—DECEMBER, 1827
First Days 5
The Colosseum 12
Roman Society 23
In Pursuit of Painting 26
Raphael 31
Considerations on Italian Painting and on the Italian
Character 36
Melancholy Beauty of Rome 52
St. Peter’s 55
Roman Realism, Superstitions and Miracles 69
Of Churches, Palaces and Gardens 72
The Piferari 84
The Capitol 86
II. JANUARY—MAY, 1828 87
The Forum 91
The Baths of Caracalla 97
Murder and Social Classes 97
Decline of the Nobility 101
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Trajan’s Basilica 102
The Vatican Palace 106
How to Travel from Paris to Rome 118
The Pantheon 123
Of Poisons 127
The English Character 130
An Idle Ramble 132
The Villa Ludovisi 135
The Piazza Montecavallo 139
The Trevi Fountain 140
Raphael’s Stanze in the Vatican 141
Within Convent Walls: Adventures of Lucrezia Frangimani 153
The Forum Revisited 161
. JUNE—NOVEMBER, 1828 167
Castel Sant’Angelo 169
The Holiest of Relics 175
Popess Joan 196
Of the Importance of Cardinals 201
Trajan’s Column 206
Clarice Porzia and the Vetturino Berinetti 208
Temples, Theatres and Arches 211
The Farnese Palace 216
St. Paul’s beyond the Walls 221
San Giovanni in Laterano 226
Santa Maria Maggiore 231
Anecdote of Cardinal Ippolito d’Este and of His Brother
Don Giulio 234
San Stefano Rotondo and the Psychology of Martyrdom 236
A Letter of Bonaparte 240
Church of St. Augustine 241
A Glimpse of Naples 244
The Convent of Sant’Onofrio and the Death of Tasso 246
The Story of Francesca Polo ' 248
The Churches of Rome 253
How to Prepare Oneself to Enjoy Rome 255
Crime and Punishment 257
The Church of San Clemente 259
Three Great Popes: Alexander VI, Julius II and Leo X 261
V1X
Hadrian VI, Clement VII and Paul III 275
The Popes after the Council of Trent 278
Banditry 280
IV. NOVEMBER, 1828—APRIL, 1829 285
French and Italian Manners 287
Montaigne and the French Incapacity to Feel the Fine Arts 289
A Musical Evening 292
The Story and Trial of Laffargue 294
Scandal in a Convent 307
Another Musical Evening 309
The Facial Tranquility of a Roman Woman 315
Customs Vary from Town to Town 316
Frenchmen are Becoming Unsociable 318
A Papal Mass 319
The Church of Sant’Agnese beyond the Walls 320
The Church of Santa Constanza 321
The Temple of Minerva Medica 322
The Circus Maximus 324
How to Improve Paris 327
A Rich American in Rome 328
A Book that Will Transform Our Knowledge of Ancient
Rome 329
A Carriage Attacked by Bandits 332
The Illness and Death of Pope Leo XII 335
The Conclave and the Nomination of Pius VIII 338
Farewell to Rome 354