Project. Earrings

89 Pages·2012·102.751 MB·English

by  Kalmbach Publishing Company

EARRINGS
Hoops Chandeliers Dangles Drops
P
R
O
J
E
C
T 44 Designs Using
:

E
A
R Beads, Wire, Chain,
R
I
N
G and More
S
Add some WOW to your
earring wardrobe!
Create 44 fabulous earring designs from
the pages of Bead&Button magazine!
From stitching and stringing to
wirework and chain mail, Project: Earrings
covers a broad range of your favorite
jewelry-making techniques.
Show off crystals, gemstones, jump rings, pearls,
seed beads, and more, in quick projects that will
keep you in style!
www.KalmbachBooks.com
From the publisher of Bead&Button,
Bead Style, and Art Jewelry magazines
64896 U.S. $17.95
CAN $22.95
ISBN 978-0-87116-489-6
51795
0 64465 16489 9
9 780871 164896
BKS-64896-CV1,4.indd 1 9/7/12 11:15 AM
:
EARRINGS
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Kalmbach Books
21027 Crossroads Circle
Waukesha, Wisconsin 53186
www.Kalmbach.com/Books
© 2012 Kalmbach Books
All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in whole by
electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher.
The jewelry designs in Project: Earrings are the copyrighted property of the contributors, and they may not be taught
or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal enjoyment only.
Published in 2012
16 15 14 13 12 1 2 3 4 5
Manufactured in the United States of America
ISBN: 978-0-87116-489-6
EISBN: 978-0-87116-757-6
The material in this book has appeared previously in Bead&Button magazine and the Beading with Gemstones special
issue. Bead&Button is registered as a trademark.
Editor: Elisa R. Neckar
Art Director: Lisa Bergman
Technical Editor: Lesley Weiss
Designers: Rebecca Markstein, Lisa Schroeder, & Michael Soliday
Illustrator: Kellie Jaeger
Photographers: Jim Forbes & Bill Zuback
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Project. Earrings / [compiled by Kalmbach Books].
p. : ill. (some col.) ; cm.
Issued also as an ebook.
“44 designs using beads, wire, chain, and more”--Cover.
“The material in this book has appeared previously in Bead&Button magazine.”--T.p. verso.
ISBN: 978-0-87116-489-6
1. Earrings--Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Beadwork--Handbooks, manuals, etc. 3. Jewelry making--Handbooks, manuals, etc. I.
Kalmbach Publishing Company. II. Title: Earrings III. Title: Bead&Button magazine.
TT860 .P76 2012
BKS-64896-FM.indd 2 9/4/12 1:33 PM
Contents
Introduction ....................................4 Hexagonal pillows ..............................42
Double up ...........................................45
Tools & Materials .........................4
Make a wish .......................................46
Techniques .......................................6
Woven royalty .....................................49
Dutch treat ..........................................50
LOOPS & Victorian inspiration ............................52
STRINGING PROJECTS Spinner rims .......................................54
Sparkling loops ...................................10 Enchanted gazebo .............................57
Crystal trio ..........................................11 Fleurs de cristal ..................................58
Chalcedony drops ..............................12 Mosaic medallions ..............................60
Cup-chain conundrum .......................14 Love thy lobes ....................................62
Parisian nights ....................................16 Rivoli dangles .....................................64
Emeralds & pearls ..............................17
Moment in time ..................................18
WIREWORK &
Can’t-beat copper earrings ................19
CHAIN MAIL PROJECTS
Clusters & vines ..................................22
Floral filigree .......................................66
Playing the angles ..............................23
Dotty dangles .....................................70
Swingy chandeliers ............................24
Pearl on a wire ....................................71
Tiny dancers .......................................26
Swinging crystals ...............................72
Geometric style ..................................74
STITCHING PROJECTS Twisted sisters ....................................75
Beadwoven beauties ..........................27 Night on the town ...............................76
Touch of paradise ...............................28 Lovely lines .........................................78
Beaded bead caps .............................29 Paisley perfection ...............................80
Kaleidoscope connection ...................32 Ruffled rings .......................................82
Star power ..........................................34 Square wire, naturally .........................84
Pearls in a pod ...................................36 Delicate drops ....................................86
Lemon squeezy ..................................38
Add it up .............................................39 Contributors ..................................87
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Introduction Tools & Materials
Clearly whoever said that you
Excellent tools and materials for making
can’t have too much of a good jewelry are available in bead and craft
thing was talking about earrings. stores, through catalogs, and on the
Internet. Here are the essential supplies
you’ll need for the projects in this book.
As beaders and jewelry makers
know, there’s no such thing as too chainnose pliers TOOLS
many earrings — and Project:
Chainnose pliers have smooth, flat
Earrings is proof of that. The
inner jaws, and the tips taper to a
wealth of projects included here
point. Use them for gripping, bending
represents the wide range of styles, wire, and for opening and closing loops
materials, and techniques that can and jump rings.
be combined to create beautiful
roundnose pliers Roundnose pliers have smooth,
baubles for your ears.
tapered, conical jaws used to make
loops. The closer to the tip you work,
If you prefer the challenge of the smaller the loop will be.
complex wire-wrapping projects,
Use the front of a wire cutters’ blades
you’ll love Sonia Kumar’s stunning
to make a pointed cut and the back of
“Paisley perfection” (p. 80). Or the blades to make a flat cut. Do not
maybe you’ve been searching for use your jewelry-grade wire cutters on
memory wire, which is extremely hard;
stitched earring projects —
wire cutters use heavy-duty wire cutters, or bend
Virginia Jensen’s “Spinner rims”
the memory wire back and forth until
(p. 56) will be just what you’re it breaks.
looking for. Or maybe you just
Crimping pliers have two grooves in
need a pair of earrings you can
their jaws that are used to fold or roll a
make quickly for a party tonight.
crimp bead into a compact shape.
Cathy Jakicic’s “Tiny dancers”
(p. 26) use only basic loop-making Make it easier to open split rings by
inserting the curved jaw of split-ring
and stringing techniques to create
crimping pliers pliers between the wires.
charming dangles. The three
sections that make up this book Beading needles are coded by size.
represent the variety of techniques The higher the number, the finer the
beading needle. Unlike sewing needles,
that you can employ: loops and
the eye of a beading needle is almost as
stringing, stitching, and wirework
narrow as its shaft. In addition to the
and chain mail. size of the bead, the number of times
you will pass through the bead also
affects the needle size that you will use.
Whatever the technique you
If you will pass through a bead multiple
choose, the 44 projects packed
times, you need to use a thinner needle.
into these pages are sure to delight split-ring pliers
you with their style, versatility, and
just plain fun. Can you really ever
have enough earrings? Project:
Earrings is here to help you try!
beading needles
4
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jump rings earring findings
bench block
hammer wire
head pin crimp beads
A hammer is used to harden wire or Earring findings come in a huge variety almost unbreakable, doesn’t stretch,
texture metal. Any hammer with a flat of metals and styles, including post, and resists fraying. The thickness can
head will work, as long as the head is French hook, hoop, and leverback. You make it difficult to make multiple passes
free of nicks that could mar your metal. will almost always want a loop (or loops) through a bead. It is ideal for stitching
The light ball-peen hammer shown on earring findings so you can attach with larger beads, such as pressed glass
here is one of the most commonly used beads or beadwork. and crystals. Parallel filament GSP, such
hammers for jewelry making. as Fireline, is a single-ply thread made
WiRE from spun and bonded polyethylene
A bench block provides a hard, smooth fibers. Because it’s thin and strong, it’s
surface on which to hammer wire and Wire is available in a number of best for stitching with small seed beads.
metal pieces. An anvil is similarly hard materials and finishes, including brass,
but has different surfaces, such as a gold, gold-filled, gold-plated, fine Other threads are available, including
tapered horn, to help form wire into silver, sterling silver, anodized niobium parallel filament nylon, such as Nymo
different shapes. (chemically colored wire), and copper. or C-Lon, and pre-conditioned parallel
Brass, copper, and craft wire are filament nylon, like K.O. or One-G
Findings packaged in 10- to 40-yd. (9.1–37m) (best used in bead weaving and bead
spools, while gold, silver, and niobium embroidery); plied nylon thread, such as
A head pin looks like a long, blunt, are sold by the foot or ounce. Wire Silamide (good for twisted fringe, bead
thick sewing pin. It has a flat or thickness is measured by gauge — the crochet, and beadwork that needs a lot
decorative head on one end to keep higher the gauge number, the thinner of body); and polyester thread, such as
beads on. Head pins come in different the wire. It is available in varying Gutermann (best for bead crochet or
metals, diameters (or gauges), and hardnesses (dead-soft, half-hard, and bead embroidery when the thread must
lengths. hard) and shapes (round, half-round, match the fabric).
square, and others).
A jump ring is used to connect two Flexible beading wire is composed of
loops. It is a small wire circle, oval, or sTiTCHing & sTRinging steel wires twisted together and covered
decorative shape that is either soldered MATERiALs with nylon. This wire is much stronger
closed or comes with a split so you can than thread and does not stretch. The
twist the jump ring open and closed. Thread comes in many sizes and higher the number of inner strands
strengths. Size (diameter or thickness) is (between three and 49), the more flexible
Crimp beads are large-hole, thin-walled designated by a letter or number. OO, and kink-resistant the wire. It is available
metal beads designed to be flattened or O, and A are the thinnest threads; B, D, in a variety of sizes and colors. Use .014
crimped into a tight roll. Use them when E, F, and FF are subsequently thicker. and .015 for most gemstones, crystals,
stringing jewelry on flexible beading and glass beads. Use thicker varieties
wire. Crimp bead covers provide a way Plied gel-spun polyethylene (GSP), (.018, .019, and .024) for heavy beads or
to hide your crimps by covering them such as Power Pro or DandyLine, is nuggets. Use thinner wire (.010 and .012)
with a finding that mimics the look of a made from polyethylene fibers that for lightweight pieces and beads with
small bead. have been spun into two or more very small holes, such as pearls.
threads that are braided together. It is
5
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Tools & Materials Techniques
THREAD AND KNOTS
BEADS
Adding thread
Many of the projects in this book To add a thread, sew into the beadwork
will call for seed beads as the main several rows or rounds prior to the
elements of the design. The most point where the last bead was added,
common and highest-quality seed beads leaving a short tail. Follow the thread
are manufactured in Japan or the Czech path of the stitch, tying a few half-hitch
Republic. These seed beads are the most seed beads knots (see “Half-hitch knot”) between
uniform and predictable in size, shape, beads as you go, and exit where the last
and hole size. Bead sizes are written as a stitch ended. Trim the short tail.
number with a symbol, such as 11/0 or
110 (pronounced “eleven aught”). Sizes Conditioning thread
range from 20 (6mm) to 240 (smaller Use beeswax or microcrystalline wax
than 1mm) — the higher the number, (not candle wax or paraffin) or Thread
the smaller the bead. The most common Heaven to condition nylon beading
seed bead size is 110, but most suppliers thread and Fireline. Wax smooths
carry sizes ranging from 60 to 150. Seed cube beads triangle beads nylon fibers and adds tackiness that
beads smaller than 150 are difficult will stiffen your beadwork slightly.
to work with as their holes are tiny, Thread Heaven adds a static charge
and thus are rarely used and very hard that causes the thread to repel itself, so
to find. don’t use it with doubled thread. Both
conditioners help thread resist wear.
Japanese cylinder beads, which are To condition, stretch nylon thread
sold under the brand names Delicas, to remove the curl (Fireline doesn’t
Treasures, or Aikos, are very consistent stretch). Lay the thread or Fireline on
in shape and size. Unlike the standard top of the conditioner, hold it in place
round seed bead, they’re shaped like with your thumb or finger, and pull the
little tubes and have very large, round drop beads twisted bugle thread through the conditioner.
holes and straight sides. They create beads
an even surface texture when stitched Ending thread
together in beadwork. These beads To end a thread, sew back through the
are also sold in tubes or packages last few rows or rounds of beadwork,
by weight. In addition to round and following the thread path of the stitch
cylinder beads, there are several other and tying two or three half-hitch knots
seed bead shapes: Hex-cut beads are (see “Half-hitch knot”) between beads
similar to cylinder beads, but instead as you go. Sew through a few beads
of a smooth, round exterior, they have after the last knot, and trim the thread.
six sides. Triangle beads have three hex-cut beads
sides, and cube beads have four. Bugle Stop bead
beads are long, thin tubes that can Use a stop bead
range in size from 2 to 30mm long. You to secure beads
might also find tiny teardrop-shaped temporarily when you begin stitching.
beads, called drops or fringe drops, Choose a bead that is different from the
and magatamas. Cube, drop, and bugle beads in your project. Pick up the stop
beads are sold by size, measured in bead, leaving the desired length tail. Sew
millimeters (mm) rather than aught size. through the stop bead again in the same
direction, making sure you don’t split
Some projects may also use a variety of the thread. If desired, sew through it
accent beads to embellish your pieces, one more time for added security.
including crystals, gemstones, fire-
polished beads, and pearls, to name
only a few types. Czech seed
beads
6
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c b a
Techniques
c
a b
Half-hitch knot sew back up through the up two beads, and sew down through
Pass the needle under the second bead added. To the next bead (b–c). Repeat across the
thread bridge between secure this first stitch, first row.
two beads, and pull sew down through the [3]To turn to start the next row, sew
gently until a loop first bead and back up down through the end bead in the
forms. Cross back over through the second bead. previous row and back through the last
the thread between the [3]For the remaining bead of the pair just added (a–b). Pick up
a
beads, sew through the stitches in the row, pick two beads, sew down through the next
loop, and pull gently to up one bead per stitch, bead in the previous crow, abnd sew up
draw the knot into the sew under the thread through the following bead (b–c).
beadwork. bridge between the next Continue adding pairs of beads across
two beads in the previous row, and sew the row.
Overhand knot back up through the new bead. The last
Make a loop with the stitch in the new row will be centered b c
thread. Pull the tail above the last two beads in the previous a
through the loop, row, and the new row will be one bead
and tighten. shorter than the previous row.
Tubular
Square knot Increasing [1]Work a row of ladder stitch (see
[1]Cross one end of To increase at the “Ladder stitch”) to the desired length
the thread over and start of the row, using an even number of beads. Form it
b c
under the other end. repeat step 1 above, into a ring to create the first round (see
Pull both ends to then repeat step “Ladder stitch: Forming a ring”). Your
tighten the first half 2, but sew under threada should exit the top of a bead.
of the knot. the thread bridge [2]Pick up two beads,
[2]Cross the first between the first sew down through d
end of the thread over and second beads the next bead in the
a
and under the other in the previous previous round (a–b),
end. Pull both ends to row. To increase at the end of the row, and sew up throcugh b c
tighten the knot. work two stitches off of the thread the followibng bead.
bridge between the last two beads in the Repeat to caomplete the
Surgeon’s previous row. round (b–c).
knot [3]You will need to
[1]Cross one end Crossweave technique step up to start the next
of the thread over and Crossweave is a beading technique in round. Sew up through two beads — the
under the other twice. which you string one or more beads on next bead in the previous round and the
c b a
Pull both ends both ends of a length of thread or cord first bead added in the new round (c–d).
to tighten the first and then cross the ends through one or [4]Continue adding two beads pcer d
half of the knot. more beads. stitch. As you work, snug up the beadbs
[2]Cross the first end of to form a tube, and step up at the aend
the thread over and under Herringbone stitch of each round until your rope is the
the other end. Pull both ends to tighten Flat desired length.
the knot. [1]Work the first row in ladder stitch
(see “Ladder stitcch”) to the desired Ladder stitch
a b
Brick stitch lengath,b exiting the top of an end bead in Making a ladder
[1]To work the typical method, which the ladder. [1]Pick up two beads, c b
results in progressively decreasing rows, [2]Pick up two beads, and sew and sew through
c a a
work the first row in ladder stitch (see down through the next bead in the them both again,
“Ladder stitch”) to the desired length, previous row (a–b). Sew up through the positioning the beads side by side so that
exiting the top of the last bead added. following bead in the previous row, pick their holes are parallel (a–b).
[2]Pick up two beads, sew under the [2]Add subsequent beads by picking
b
thread bridge between the second and a up one bead, sewing through the b
a bb
third beads in the previous row, and previous bead, then sewing through a
c b
7
aa b
b c
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a
d
c
b
a
b c
a
c
b
a
the new bead (b–c). Continue for the Peyote stitch Circular
desired length. This technique produces Flat even-count Circular peyote is worked in continuous
uneven tension, which you can correct [1]Pick up an rounds like tubular peyote, but the rounds
by zigzagging back through the beads even number of e stay flat and radiate outward from the
c
d
in the opposite direction or by choosing beads, leaving center as a result of increasing the number
a b
the a“Cbrossweave the desired of beads per stitch or using larger beads.
method” or length tail If the number or size of the beads is
b
“Alternative (a–b). These beads will shift to form the not sufficient to fill the spaces between
method.”c first two rows as the third row is added. stitches, the circle will not lie flat.
a
[2]To begin row 3, pick up a bead,
Crossweave method skip the last bead added in the previous Right-angle weave
a b
[1]Thread a needle on each end of a step, and sew back through the next Flat strip
b
length of thread, and center a bead. bead, working toward the tail (b–c). For [1]To start the first row of right-angle
b
[2]Wcorking ian crbobssweave technique, each stitch, pick up a bead, skip a bead weave, pick up four beads, and tie them
a a
pick up a bead with one needle, and in the previous row, and sew through into a ring (see “Square knot”). Sew
cross the other needle through it (a–b the next bead until you reach the first through the first three
and aa–bb). Aadad abll subsequent beads bead picked up in step 1 (c–d). The beads again.
in the same manner. beads added in this row are higher than [2]Pick up three beads.
b
a bb the previous rows and are referred to as Sew through the last
a
“up-beads.” bead in the previous
[3]For each stitch in subsequent rows, stitch (a–b), and continue c
aa b pick up a bead, and sew through the through the first two
b
Alternative method next up-bead in the previous row (d–e). beads picked up in this a
[1]Pick up all the beads you need To count peyote stitch rows, count stitch (b–c).
to reach the length your project the total number of beads along both [3]Continue adding three beads per
requires. Fold the last two beads so straight edges. stitch until the first row is the desired
they are parallel, and sew through the length. You are
second-to-last bead again in the same Tubular stitching in a
direction (a–b). Tubular peyote stitch follows the same figure-8 pattern,
a b
stitching pattern as flat peyote, but alternating the
b
instead of sewing back and forth, you direction of the
c work in rounds. thread path for
a
[1]Start with an even number of beads each stitch.
a b
[2]Fold the next loose bead so it sits tied into a ring (see “Square knot”).
b
parallel to the previous bead in the [2]Sew through the first bead in the Adding rows
ladder, and sew through the loose bead ring. Pick up a bead, [1]To add a row, sew through the last
c b a
a bb in the same direction (a–b). Continue skip a bead in the stitch of row 1, exiting an edge bead
a
sewing back through each bead until ring, and sew along one side.
you exit the last bead of the ladder. through the next
aa b bead. Repeat to Knot
b
a bb complete the round.
a
[3]To step
up to start the
Round 4
aa b next round, sew [2]Pick up three beads, and sew
Round 3
Forming a ring through the first c b through the edge bead your thread exited
a
With your thread exiting the last bead bead added in in the previous step (a–b). Continue
in the ladder, sew through the first bead round 3 (a–b). through the first new bead (b–c).
and then through the last bead again. Pick up a bead, Round 2 Round 1
c
If using the “Crossweave method” and sew through
or “Alternative method” of ladder the next bead in round 3 (b–c). Repeat b
a
stitch, cross the threads from the last to complete the round.
bead in the ladder through the first [4]Repeat step 3 to achieve the desired
bead in the ladder. length, stepping up after each round.
8
BKS-64896-FM.indd 8 9/4/12 1:33 PM
[3]Pick up two beads, and sew back [1]Position the crimp bead Wraps above
through the next edge bead in the in the hole that is closest a top-drilled bead
previous row and the bead your thread to the handle of the [1]Center a top-drilled
exited at the start of this step (a–b). crimping pliers. 1 bead on a 3-in. (7.6cm)
Continue through the two new beads [2]Holding the wires piece of wire. Bend each
and the following edge bead in the apart, squeeze the pliers to wire end upward, crossing
1
previous row (b–c). compress the crimp bead, them into an X above
making sure one wire is the bead.
2
a
b on each side of the dent. [2]Using chainnose
c [3]Place the crimp bead pliers, make a small bend
in the front hole of the in each wire end to form 2
pliers, and position it so a right angle where the
3
the dent is facing the tips of wires cross.
[4]Pick up two beads, and sew through the pliers. Squeeze the pliers to fold the [3]Wrap the horizontal
the last two beads your thread exited crimp in half. wire around the vertical
in the previous stitch and the first new wire as in a wrapped loop 3
bead. Continue working a figure-8 Opening and closing loops (see “Wrapped loop”).
thread path, picking up two beads per and jump rings Trim the excess wrapping wire.
stitch for the rest of the row. [1]Hold a loop or a [4]If desired, make a wrapped loop
jump ring with two pairs (see “Wrapped loop”) with the vertical
of pliers, such as wire directly above the wraps.
chainnose, flatnose, or 1
bentnose pliers. Wrapped loop
[2]To open the loop or [1]Using chainnose pliers, make a
jump ring, bring the tips of right-angle bend in the wire about 2mm
one pair of pliers toward above a bead or other component or at
2
Whip stitch you, and push the tips of least 1¼ in. (3.2cm) from the end of a
Use whip stitch to the other pair away from you. Reverse naked piece of wire.
join two layers the steps to close. [2]Position the jaws of
of fabric with the roundnose pliers in the
a finished edge. Plain loop bend. The closer to the tip
[1]Sew up [1]Using chainnose pliers, make a of the pliers that you work, 1
through one layer, right-angle bend in the wire directly the smaller the loop will be.
and cross over the above a bead or other component or [3]Curve the short end of
edges diagonally about 1⁄16 in. (2mm) at least 1⁄4 in. (6mm) from the wire over the top jaw of
from where your thread is exiting. the end of a naked piece the roundnose pliers. 2
[2]Sew down through both layers of wire. For a larger loop, [4]Reposition the pliers
diagonally, exiting about 1⁄16 in. (2mm) bend the wire further in. so the lower jaw fits snugly
from where your thread exited at the [2]Grasp the end of the 1 in the loop. Curve the wire
start of step 1. wire with roundnose downward around the 3
[3]For each subsequent stitch, cross pliers so that the wire is bottom jaw of the pliers.
over the edges diagonally, and sew flush with the jaws of the This is the first half of a
down through both edges as in step 2. pliers where they meet. wrapped loop.
2
The closer to the tip of [5]To complete the wraps,
4
STRINGING & the pliers that you work, grasp the top of the loop
WIREWORK the smaller the loop will with one pair of pliers.
be. Press downward [6]With another pair
3
Crimping slightly, and rotate the of pliers, wrap the wire
5
Use crimp beads to secure flexible wire toward the bend made around the stem two or
beading wire. Slide the crimp bead in step 1. three times. Trim the excess
into place, and squeeze it firmly with [3]Reposition the pliers in the loop to wire, and gently press the
chainnose pliers to flatten it. For a more continue rotating the wire until the end cut end close to the wraps
finished look, use crimping pliers. of the wire touches the bend. with chainnose pliers. 6
9
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