Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers

542 Pages·2008·137.39 MB·English

by  Julie Christine Cole

SEWING TECHNIOUES
FOR DESIGNERS
.
JULIE COLE SHARON CZACHOR

To Jules' dear Mum, Megan Clark, and Sharon's dear mother, Marie Rose Novotny, who encouraged us in our
love of fashion and pursuit of design excellence.

CONTENTS
EXTENDED CONTENTS viii CHAPTER 6 CHAPTER 13
PREFACE xii Seams: Joining It All Together 135 Cuffs and Other Wrist Finishes:
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii
Encircling the Wrist 345
INTRODUCTION xiv CHAPTER 7
STYLE KEY xvii Tucks and Pleats: Tailoring a Texture 187 CHAPTER 14
Sleeves: Rounding Off the Arm 375
CHAPTER 1 CHAPTER 8
The Design Process: Why Construction Zippers: Fastening Your Way into CHAPTER 15
5,: Should Matter to the Fashion Designer 1 the Garment 207 Hems: Defining the Length 399
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, . CHAPTER 2 CHAPTER 9 CHAPTER 16
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:,:;, ':...':, , Getting Prepared: Avoiding Snags 13 Waistbands:P lanning the Linings: Covering the Inner Surface 437
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c:<:,: Horizontal Edge nas
;.., - CHAPTER 3 CHAPTER 17
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%7::; _ Introduction to Stabilizers: Fabricating CHAPTER 10 Closures: Closing the Garment 473
fi::.. . ' a Stable Foundation 61 Ruffles and Flounces: Feminine
I,,,,. ;k., . 1 and Flirty 261 CHAPTER 18
'y$i..2. . i CHAPTER 4 Finishing Touches: All Sewn Up! 507
6,y$z,s2:,,2.. . :, . ;i- Darts: Tapering to Fit the Garment 91 CCHolAlaPrsT:E SRil h1o1u etting the Neck 283 GLOSSARY 514
fi: CHAPTER 5 APPENDIX: WHERE TO BUY 525
%.: ..::: !Ii, - Pockets: Building a Handy Compartment 109 CHAPTER 12 NOTES 527
Facings: Encasing Unfinished Edges 313 INDEX 528
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EXTENDED.C ONTENTS
PREFACE xii Needles 45 Fabric Stabilizers 75
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii Stitches 51 Stabilizing Tapes 75
INTRODUCTION xiw Let's Stitch! 51 Underlining-Fully Covering the Fabric 79
STYLE KEY xvii Project Preparation 53 Interfacing Garment Parts 82
Fitting the Garment 54 Interfacing Tricky Fabrics 83
Pressing Equipment 56 Transfer Your Knowledge 86
CHAPTER 1 How to Press a Garment 57 Stretch Your Creativity 86
The Design Process: Why Construction Should Transfer Your Knowledge 58 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 87
Matter to the Fashion Designer I Stretch Your Creativity 59 Self-critique 90
Style I.D. 1 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 59 Review Checklist 90
Key Terms 1 Self-critique 59
Gather Your Tools 2 Reeiew Checklist 59
Now Let's Get Started 2 CHAPTER 4
The Fashion Designer 2 Darts: Tapering to Fit the Garment 91
The Importance of Having Construction CHAPTER 3 Style I.D. 91
Knowledge 4 Introduction to Stabilizers: Fabricating a Stable Key Terms 91
The Design Process 5 Foundation 61 Gather Your Tools 92
Review Checklist 12 Style I.D. 61 Now Let's Get Started 92
Key Terms 61 Stitching Tricky Fabrics 99
Gather Your Tools 63 Transfer Your Knowledge 104
CHAPTER 2 Now Let's Get Started 63 Stretch Your Creativity 107
Getting Prepared: Avoiding Snags 13 What Are Stabilizers? 63 STOP! What Do I Do If. . . 108
Style I.D. 13 Why Use a Stabilizer? 63 Self-critique 108
Key Terms 13 How to Judge if the Garment Needs Review Checklist 108
Gather Your Tools 15 a Stabilizer 63
Now Let's Get Started 15 Who Chooses the Stabilizer for the
Know Your Fabric 15 Garment? 67 CHAPTER 5
It All Begins with the Pattern 21 Types of Stabilizers 69 Pockets: Building a Handy Compartment 109
Seam Allowance 25 How to Choose the Best Stabilizer for Your Style I.D. 109
Laying Out and Cutting Fabric 31 Project 72 Key Terms 109
Thread Types 45 How to Apply Stabilizers 74 Gather Your Tools 109
Vllt
Extended Contents
Now Let's Get Started 111 More Advanced Seam Stitching 171 Transfer Your Knowledge 235
Interfacing in Pockets and Flaps 111 Stitching Seams in Tricky Fabrics 178 Stretch Your Creativity 235
Pocket Linings 111 Transfer Your Knowledge 182 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 235
Pocket Styles 113 Stretch Your Creativity 183 Self-critique 237
Bar Tacks 129 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 183 Review Checklist 237
Closures on Pockets 130 Self-Critique 184
Pockets in Tricky Fabrics 130 Review Checklist 185
Transfer Your Knowledge 131 CHAPTER 9
Stretch Your Creativity 131 Waistbands:P lanning the Horizontal Edge 239
STOP! What Do I Do If. . . 133 CHAPTER 7 Key Terms 239
Self-critique 133 Tucks and Pleats: Tailoring a Texture 187 Style I.D. 241
Review Checklist 133 Style I.D. 187 Gather Your Tools 241
Key Terms 187 Now Let's Get Started 241
Gather Your Tools 188 Stitching Tricky Fabrics 255
CHAPTER 6 Now Let's Get Started 188 Transfer Your Knowledge 258
Seams: Joining It All Together Tucks 190 Stretch Your Creativity 258
12,
Key Terms 135 Meats 196 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 259
Style I.D. 137 Stitching Tricky Fabrics 201 Self-critique 260
Gather Your Tools 137 Transfer Your Knowledge 204 Review Checklist 260
Now Let's Get Started 137 Stretch Your Creativity 204
Let's Prepare to Stitch 138 STOP! What Do I Do If. . . 2C '
Let's Begin to Stitch 142 Self-critique 205 CHAPTER 10
Open or Closed Seams 145 Review Checklist 205 Ruffles and Flounces: Feminine and Fli~ty2 61
Serged Seam Finish 145 Style I.D. 261
Safety Stitch 147 Key Terms 261
Shaped Seams 147 CHAPTER 8 Gather Your Tools 262
Piped Seams 149 Zippers: Fastening Your Way into Now Let's Get Started 262
Eased Seam 154 the Garment 207 Let's Stitch Ruffles and Flounces 264
Gathered Seam 156 Style I.D. 207 Stitching the Hems 265
Topstitched Seams 157 Key Terms 207 Surface Application 269
Sandwiched Seam 161 Gather Your Tools 207 Seam Application 272
Intersecting Seams 161 Now Let's Get Started 209 Edge Application 273
Other Seam Finishes 164 What Is a Zipper? 209 How to Press 275
Some Essential Hand Stitches Used for Zipper Types 211 Stitching Ruffles and Flounces in Tricky
Stitching Seams 170 Stitching Tricky Fabrics 228 Fabrics 276
Professioaal Sew~ngT echniques for Deszgner,
Transfer Your Knowledge 278 Gather Your Tools 313 Closed Cuffs 361
Stretch Your Creativity 279 Now Let's Get Started 315 Other Wrist Finishes 363
STOP! What Do I Do If. . . 280 Shaped Facings 320 Casings 363
Self-critique 281 Keyhole and Slashed Openings 325 Bias Binding with Ties 365
Review Checklist 281 ExtendedISelf-Facing 329 Shirring Elastic 366
Bands 331 Sleeve Vent 366
Bias Facing 334 Stitching Cuffs and Other Wrist Finishes in
CHAPTER 11 Bias Bindings 338 Tricky Fabrics 367
Collars: Silhouetting the Neck 283 How to Join the Facing to the Lining 339 Transfer Your Knowledge 369
Key Terms 283 Other Edge Finishes 339 Stretch Your Creativity 369
Style LD. 285 Stitching Facings in Tricky Fabrics 339 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 372
Gather Your Tools 285 Transfer Your Knowledge 342 Self-critique 373
Now Let's Get Started 285 Stretch Your Creativity 342 Review Checklist 373
. .
Types of Collars 286 STOP! What Do I Do If. 342
Stitching Collars Begins with Correct Sclf-Critique 344
Patterns 287 Review Checklist 344 CHAPTER 14
Stitching the Collar to the Neckline 288 Sleeves: Rounding Off the Arni 375
Get the Stabilizer Right! 289 Style I.D. 375
Collars Stitched with No Neck Facing 290 CHAPTER 13 Key Terms 375
Collars Stitched with Front Neck Facing Cuffi and Other Wrist Fiiiishes: Encircling Gather Your Tools 377
Only 300 the Wrist 345 Now Let's Get Started 377
Collars Stitched with Front and Back Neck Style I.D. 345 Set-in Sleeves 378
Facings 304 Key Terms 345 Sleeves Cut-in-One With All or Part of the
Stitching Collars in Tricky Fabrics 305 Gather Your Tools 347 Garment 385
Transfer Your Knowledge 308 Now Let's Get Started 347 Sleeve Heads 389
Stretch Your Creativity 308 Make Sure the Cuff Fits Comfortably 348 Shoulder Pads 390
.
STOP! What Do I Do If.. 309 How to Choose the Appropriate Wrist Pressing the Sleeves 392
Self-critique 311 Finish 349 Stitching Tricky Fabrics 393
Review Checklist 311 Stabilizing Cuffs 350 Transfer Your Knowledge 396
Let's Stitch 350 Stretch Your Creativity 396
Open Cuffs 350 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 396
CHAPTER 12 Plackets 350 Self-critique 398
Facings: Encasing Un5nished Edges 313 Preparing the Wrist 355 Review Checklist 398
Style I.D. 313 Trims Stitched to the Cuffs 355
Key Terms 313 Stitching the Cuffs 356
Extended Contents
CHAPTER 15 Gather Your Tools 437 Snap Fasteners 497
Hems: Defining the Length 399 Now Let's Get Started 439 Hooks and Eyes 499
Style I.D. 399 Types of Lining 439 Belts 501
Key Terms 399 The Lining Pattern 441 Stitching Closures in Tricky Fabrics 502
Gather Your Tools 401 Full or Partial Lining 441 Transfer Your Knowledge 504
Now Let's Get Started 401 Full Lining 444 Stretch Your Creativity 504
How to Choose the Appropriate Hem 401 Partial Lining 462 STOP! What Do I Do If. . . 505
A Smooth, Even Hem Begins with the Final Pressing of Lined Garments 468 Self-critique 506
Correct Patterns 403 Lining Tricky Fabrics 468 Review Checklist 506
Now Let's Prepare the Hem 405 Transfer Your Knowledge 469
Let's Stitch 406 Stretch Your Creativity 470
. .
Bulky Seams 406 STOP! What Do I Do If. 470 CHAPTER 18
Hem Stabilizers 407 Self-Critique 470 Finishing Touches: All Sewn Up! 507
Hem Finishes 409 Review Checklist 472 Style I.D. 507
Preparing the Hem 411 Key Terms 507
Hand-Stitched Hems 412 Gather Your Tools 507
Hem Stitches 413 CHAPTER 17 Now Let's Get Started 508
Machine-Stitched Hems 415 Closures: Closing the Garment 473 Finishing Touches That Need
False Hems 421 Style I.D. 473 Attending To 508
Horsehair Braid 423 Key Terms 473 Pressing Tricky Fabrics 510
Cuffs 424 Gather Your Tools 473 STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 511
Vent 425 Now Let's Get Started 474 Self-critique 511
Hem Slit with Facing 427 Closing the Garment 475 Review Checklist 512
Stitching Hems in Tricky Fabrics 428 Stitching Successful Closures Begins with
Transfer Your Knowledge and Stretch Your the Correct Pattern 476 GLOSSARY 814
Creativity 432 Extension for Closures 477 APPENDIX: WHERE TO BUY 525
STOP! What Do I Do If.. . 435 Buttons 479 NOTES 827
Self-critique 436 Buttonholes 481 INDEX 528
Review Checklist 436 Machine-Stitched Buttonholes 483
Bound Buttonholes 484
In-Seam Buttonholes 487
CHAPTER 18 Concealed Closure 487
Lining: Covering the Inner Surface 437 Bias Loops 489
Style I.D. 437 Tab-Loops and Tabs 492
Key Terms 437 Stitching Buttons 493
Jules: have been an owner of a sewing business, an construction skills for the designer, from the
As a new immigrant to America from Austra- award-winning designer, and now an instructor beginning stages as a student through the devel-
lia, I thought my career would continue just as at Harper College, the opportunity to share the opment of the working designer.
it had in Sydney and Melbourne and I would knowledge I have gained through these experi- The book is organized to reflect the stitching
carry on designing collections as I had done ences with students in the fashion design pro- order of any garment and offers many insights
for the past 30 years. Little did I know that the gram continues to excite and challenge me. into techniques appropriate to varying levels of
course of my life was about to change. Instead Our passion for design and construction proficiency. Each chapter is enriched with de-
the opportunity came to teach fashion design has always been a part of our lives. The meth- tailed sketches to provide visual support to the
at Harper College and the International Acad- ods detailed in this book are a result of many text. We hope it will increase your sewing skills,
emy of Design and Technology, both in Illinois. long hours of designing, patternmaking, sample inspire your confidence, and stimulate your
Over the past 6 years it has been my privilege making, and refinement of techniques devel- further creative experimentation. Sewing skills
to impart my fashion design knowledge and oped over years of designing collections, teach- are a continuing process, the basis from which
skills to students in their pursuit of a career in ing, and sewing. Our mutual passion for fashion design is supported, interpreted, and reinforced
fashion. design and dedication to excellent sewing skills through effort and informed instruction.
are evidenced in this book. This book is a resource to be returned to,
Sharon: It is impossible to have good designs with- over and over, throughout your designlsewing
Design and bringing the design to completion out having accurate patternmaking and quality career. As you develop the accompanying work-
through excellent construction have been the construction. This book presents a source of book, avisual reminder of the techniques in each
focus of my 14 years of teaching. Although I continuing education in the pursuit of excellent chapter will be compiled for future reference.
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