Professional Pattern Grading for Women's, Men's, and Children's Apparel

265 Pages·1988·25.33 MB·English

by  Jack Handford

Please use this insertion to con€ct the lollowina tvTographicavlrintinge rror
PROFESSIONAI- PATTERN GR,ADTNG:
Pase15-Line18.( 3)M oveIN l/8" (0.3o ) Drawtheshoulder
Pase2 3- Line1 6- (3)MovelN1/8( 0.3c i) Dnwthearnscve
Page2 6 Line3 6 (6)M oyea F 1/8" (0 3 cn). Drawt hes ides ean
Pas€ 53 Line3 5- a.d bac&e des ol tle sleev€ 1/16"( 0 2 cm)a put
Page5 9 Line34- (5)MoverOr/N1/8("0 3 cm)mdIN1/8"(03 cm)
Pase9 1- O,r md ft shouldb er ders.d ont ned irectimala @ws
Paee9 3 O/ dd L should!e reversd otrt hed irectimala @ws
Pase1 00'M@eI (1)s houltde conecteads f ollNs:
UP DOWN
OUT IN
Pace1 12 Mde # (?)s holldh ec onecteda sf ollows:
DOWN UP
IN OUT 5/8"( 1,6c m)
DOWN UP
IN OUT
lage 138 Mde t (4),li ne3 , shouldi@ d:
bladeu €a, seeN ote qder (4) on pase8 6)
PleaF acceptn y since.ea pologi4 lor any inconvenienced ese €rors @v haveu used tou. Y@
ma' be assred rhat they will be cdr€ted belore tle next printins
ROFESSIONAL PATTERN GRADING
for Women's, Men's and Children's Apparel
by
JAoKH ANDFoRDE, D.D .
Copyright 1930 Plycon press
Printed in lhe United states of A,aelica
A11 rights reserved. No part of ehis book
na! be leDrodu.ea.w cny neare ditnour r\e
of the Publisher-
340 The vil1age, No. 105
Redondo 3each, catifornia 902 7?
Lirraly of congless cataloq card Nuber: 79_9L230
rsBN:0-916434-34-6
DEDICATION
This bool is dedi.ated to all those who share my philosphyt hat clothing is trult one oI oui
recessities,a long witn lood and sh€lteri but that lood, regardlesso f the thought and care that
<oesi nto tts preladtion, is ephemeraal nd only the menory ol it .enainsr that shelterr epresents
trn exDensivea nd genefllly long terD investmentt hat is not easily changedt o suit our shiiting
loods. On the other hand, clothins on be as disposablea s we {ish, qlickly .hanged accordins
:o our needsa nd rvithin a wide range oi prices ald the pleasue and satisJactionth at con€s lron
Tearin g a velldesigne d, wel l.co nstru.ted md wel.fitt ed gament ol appropriaten aterialc an out
:ire the mostm gnificent neal snhout repr*enting the e{penseo r peftance oJh o!si.A.
JACKll Amrom, DD.D .
CONTENTS
SECTIONI _ WOMEN'S1VEAR
ErplanationolWomenswearGrad. ins
Difleren.ebse tweesni zes ..
I G.ade.. . .. ... ...... ....., ...5
f1/2 Crade.. .. ..... .. .. .. 10
.13
2 Grade .
Chadfo ra l grades. .... .......
1 Grade.. . .. ... .. .. 18
..2r
1.1/2G rade.. .. .... ....
2 Grade.. . .. ..24
Cha forallgrade.s. .... ..... ..28
l crade. ..... .. .. ..... ... ..31
1.1/2G .ade. .. . ..... .... '35
2 Grade.. .... .. 39
Chartfor3llgrad.e.s.. .... ...
Chat for all grades . . . . , . . . . .. 48
Naistbandsf or ScDarateS hirt or Pants . .50
1'G.adeandll/ 2'Gradc ......
2"Grad.. .... .. .. .. ..57
Chanf o. al grades .. . . .62
I"Gnde ... ....... ...
I 1/2 Grade. .. .. ..
2 Grade.. ....
Chartirallgrades . . ... 76
CiartJorallgrades . ... 73
'
Crdae ..
1.1/2"c radea nd2 ,,c rade
.. 82
Cha|tl or allgradesC onvexnecktine ...
.. 8,1
Chartt ora I srades Concaveneckline ... .35
Noresi o. SectionI
SECTJONI I DESJGNV ARIA'IIONS
Prince ss. Cjrartlora llg mdes
Midrifi Chartf or allg rades
BackY oke . Chart tor a srades
.. 9,1
sha\rlCotlarC harcto r a srade
Blouse torso , Chart for all gRdes , . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93
KinonoS leeve. S TrapB odi.e. Chartt or alls lades. . 100
Bodice Chartf .r altg Rdes
r02
SleeveC hartto.altgrad.e..s ..... .. ...
104
Sl.eveandYokeCutInOne.Chartto.ailsmdes
... r06
SixC o.eS lirt . Cha fora lls ndes . . . . . . , . . . ..
108
SkirtwithCut-inFocket_Chartforallsiades
......
110
Circle Skirt . Chart lor a srades
I12
sNinWear BodySriL-Cna.rlorallsrades
.......
114
SECT]ON]II MENSWEAR
.E'T
Dific rencesb etweens i zes
t22
I 'o' c n,rB od.
123
Charto.2,,grade
130
Back Shi.t Body and yoke . . . . . . . , . . . . . . 132
Chlrrlo.2,,srade
138
Collar. .. .. ..
140
S|eev.e. .... ,......
141
LonsandS hortSteeveC. harrtor2,,srade
146
FrontBodJ,-Chartlor.!,Crade
... ..... ..
143
BaclShntBody_ChrtJor4,,crade
...,.....
t50
LonsandShortSteeve.Charttor4,,snde
....
152
Colta.4 ,,gmde.. .... ...... ... .. .. ..
Babis 3 nonurst browh 36n oftns
B.diceF,r ontandBack ..,.,..,,..... 210
Sleeve. . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . , , , , . . . . . . . . . . . . - . . . . . . . . . , . . , , 212
Skirt,FrontandBacl< ..... -......... 213
KinonoS leevSea .quSe,h dtd lonsDresGs,o M . ..... -........... 214
Pdts, Fmntd d Bacl<. . - . . . . . . , , , . . . . . . - . . . . - . . . . . - . . . . . . - . . . . . 218
BodicFer, ontandBack,...,,,-,.,. ,..,,,.....,,.....,.......... 224
Sleoe . . . . . , , . . . . . , , . . , . . . . - . . . . . . . . . . . , , , . . , , , , . . , , , , . . , . . , , 222
Sknt, Fronta ndB ack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Pats,l rontandBac.,k. .... .......... -- ....,,,,..,,,..,,,,,.., 224
Bodice,F ront and Eact
.224
Sleev.e. ....... .....
.230
Skirt, Frcnt and Back
232
Pan|s,F ront and Back
Bodice,FrontandBack.
238
Sleev.e. . ...... .... ua
Skirt,FronLandBack..
242
Pants,FrontandBack..
244
Shnt,FrontandBa.k..
24a
Sleeve...............
25A
Panrs,FrontandBack..
252
l l
3.(
1..
5.t
IId
chit
INTRODUCTION
Gradingn ay bes inrplyd eiineda st hci .creasingo r de..€asingofaDattema ccordrgt oa set
oi corespondinbgo dyn reasuFmencT hc sctrct.f DroJcssionsanld ing is to uderstandx ,''r
thcb odyr cqutresth esec hanges
Artioughn ost manufa.Lurelrosl loe th. diJfer.nccisn sizesa ss eLJ orthi n publicaLionbsv
the NATIONAL BUREAU OF S:f/\NDARDSn, ant havel ound that slighi variatio.sJ ronl
Lhosem casuremetns aE .eqd ie d lo r thcn Fadicular tyt c ol garnenr and thejr tvpc ot cus toner'
The merhodss hdNni n this booka re fundanentaml d orcc masteredn ravb c varieda t the
$ader sdiscretiono.Lhme nufacnr.crs ndeds
Thc a.ceDtedn elhod ol gradhs a pattrfr i. to moYeth e Pieceb einAg nded,i ra.ing each
prcgressiyset eDa ndt henblendinsth c ncw lincst ogeth.r,u sinsL heo riginaDl attempi.cea sa
gnidelo r theblendingofthDe eNli ncs
Mechani.alequipnensru, cha st hc Dari. C.adonrctcorr thet lingedG radi.AR uie.nadeb t
Clut$c Produciionsa rew idelyu scdi . thcgarmenitn dustvtospeedu Ft hep rocesosJ g rading
Thesea idsa ren otautomaLaic. d thes mdcrn ststill Ln.w andn nde6Lanldrh eret hc Fttern
Die.eis to bc .hansedF. or rhes rudenot l smdins,t heo nlve quipmenntc cessa!i-s a flrlerm ark
;d in 1/L6thso f,n incn( ori. ccntinetersil the metri. reasu'ene.c areb einsused)e, ithera
righrangletiangleo r anL squa.ea ndn sharph ardl eadp eocil.
Det;ileddncclionsarre{i rcni or lTadingb dsi.p atternp ieccsT. heses houLbde D Bcti.edu ntil
dreya re thorcughlyln destood beJok attenrptinglo gradcD .tcrns {iih nrorcd etaileds tvlc
lin;s Keepi n nrinda hvaysth at accu.a.yis nuch nore inportantt hans peed the speedN ill
comele ithD F.tice.B es ue io thoroughlcyh ectt heo .igin aI patt ernsb eJorest artingto grade:
1. Eachpieceshouldbecheckcdasainstthep,.eorDiecesit*illbese\rntoinLhe.onpleted
and punchn rarks.R enembcr,t hese( ill be the onlt s des the
to $ide thcnri n plrting Lhes ameni ios.thero n.€ it is cut i.on the
3. Checks $m allosa.cesloraccuracy.
,1. A.e the grain lincs clearly indicated?
- Is thes tylen unbcr,t hen lnber ol piecesre qrnedt o be. ut iron eachD at oJt hel attern
andl hesizeoltheo rigi.alp 3Lier..learlyin dicated?
lfthe sraderl ailsb checkt hco ginalp atterna ndt heres houldb ea nve noE in it, all ol the
srccdedinpga tteflNw ilLh avet he samcm istrkes- q hi.h canb e vcrv costlvt o thec omtanv,
citheri n p.oductiono r in loss{ ,f busincsdsu er o po.r fiL For theses aher easonse,a chn cwlv
aradeds ecti,,nolthep atteros houldbetc stcda sai.stt hepreeiouslsyr adedp ie.et hati t wiUbc
se$nt o inthec ohpletedg arment
The.eh asb eenn u.h dhcussionrc centlya boutdtowingouto urp resenrta ngeo f sizesa 'rd
replncingthcbw ithsomcn c{sizesb^edon thcmeiicsysten If, andthen, Lhiss houldo ccur,
thes anep rin.ipleslorchaogirigpaa tLcrfn. .n on. sizet oanoiherwillremaidn1 es ane.
StandardizariooIn m ens sizesin Anc.ica dcrelopedig ht alter theC iil $Iar, about1 365,
Jron thc neasurementosJ the sol.liersl' ho hadb eeni ndlcredi nto the UnionA rmv These
measurenrentsbecaFma.el o l thc rccordso l theu .s. Bdrea!o fstaDdardasn dL hes lasel ias set
lor rhed evclopmenotl .eadyn iadem cn\\car. The neasnr ementsa reu pd ated aboute rervl en
rcarst o rcflecti hen eededch anscrsn s iTes
'lvomcns
andc hildrensm easrrcmcntsicrca ddedto rhes tatis ticsp reparedb y theB urea!
oi Standardsa nd are alsou pdate.la bolr eYervt en -rcars.
Chil.lre.s clothinsi s sizedb y ase. unlike orens clotbjnsw hich is sizedb v chestc ir
cumlerencoer Nomens lloLhingwhichha sa ne ntirclyd ifierenst vsremd rath ase volvedlr omt he
needlo lit a vanetyo I sizesa nda ses.