Professional Cooking

1122 Pages·2010·57.716 MB·English

by  Wayne Gisslen

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W A Y N E G I S S L E N
P R O F E S S I O N A L
C O O K I N G
S E V E N T H E D I T I O N
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y J . G E R A R D S M I T H
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
197523_ffirs:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 12:03 PM Page ii
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Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data:
Gisslen, Wayne, 1946-
Professional cooking / Wayne Gisslen ; photography by J. Gerard Smith. -- 7th ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-470-19752-3 (Higher Education Cloth) -- ISBN 978-0-470-19753-0 (Trade Cloth)
1. Quantity cookery. 2. Food service. I. Title.
TX820.G54 2009
641.5'7--dc22
2009045858
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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This book is dedicated to the many
Chef-Instructors preparing a new generation of culinary professionals.
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FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI
ENCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER
STANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL
TRY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND
Contents
Recipe Contents ix
Chapter 3 Tools and Equipment 41
Preface xxii
Introduction to Quantity Food Equipment 42
Acknowledgments xxvi
Cooking Equipment 43
About CulinarE-Companion™ xxix
Processing Equipment 49
About WileyPLUS xxx Holding and Storage Equipment 53
Pots, Pans, and Containers 54
Measuring Devices 56
Chapter 1 The Food-Service Industry 1 Knives, Hand Tools, and Small Equipment 57
A History of Modern Food Service 2
The Organization of Modern Kitchens 7
Standards of Professionalism 11 Chapter 4 Basic Principles of Cooking
63
and Food Science
Heat and Food 64
What Is Heat? 64
Heat Transfer 66
Heat Management 67
Cooking Methods 70
Moist-Heat Methods 70
Dry-Heat Methods 72
Dry-Heat Methods Using Fat 74
Microwave Cooking 76
Cooking Sous Vide 77
Molecular Gastronomy 79
Chapter 2 Sanitation and Safety 15
Summary of Cooking Terms 81
Sanitation 16 Building Flavor 82
Food Hazards 16 Building Flavor Profiles 82
Personal Hygiene 25 Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients 84
Food Storage 26 Using Herbs and Spices 89
Food Handling and Preparation 28
Cleaning and Sanitizing Equipment 30
Rodent and Insect control 32
Setting up a System for Food Safety 33
Safety 35
The Safe Workplace 36
Preventing Cuts 36
Preventing Burns 37
Preventing and Dealing with Fires 37
Preventing Injuries from Machines and Equipment 38
Preventing Falls 38
Preventing Strains and Injuries from Lifting 39
iv
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CONTENTS v
SCI
DER
Clear Soups 227
OUL
AND Broths 227
Consommé 228
Vegetable Soups 232
Other Clear Soups 235
Thick Soups 238
Cream Soups 238
Purée Soups 246
Bisques 253
Chowders 254
Specialty Soups and National Soups 257
Chapter 5 Menus, Recipes,
93
and Cost Management
Chapter 10 Understanding Meats and Game 275
Menu Forms and Functions 94
Building the Menu 96
Composition, Structure,
The Written Recipe 102 and Basic Quality Factors 276
Measurement 105
Composition 276
Converting Recipes 109
Structure 277
Food Cost Calculations 114
Inspection and Grading 278
Controlling Food Costs 120
Aging 278
Understanding the Basic Cuts 280
Chapter 6 Nutrition 125 Available Forms: Carcasses, Partial Carcasses,
Primals, and Fabricated Cuts 280
Nutrients 126 Bone Structure 281
The Balanced Diet 130 Beef, Lamb, Veal, and Pork Cuts 285
Cooking Healthful Meals 133 Selecting Meats for Your Operation 288
Fabricating Meats 289
Cooking and Handling Meats 293
Chapter 7 Mise en Place 137
Tenderness and Appropriate Cooking Methods 293
Planning and Organizing Production 138 Doneness 297
Using the Knife 141 Cooking Variety Meats 300
Preliminary Cooking and Flavoring 149 Game and Specialty Meats 303
Preparation for Frying 152 Storage of Meats 306
Handling Convenience Foods 154
Chapter 11 Cooking Meats and Game 309
Chapter 8 Stocks and Sauces 157
Roasting and Baking 310
Broiling, Grilling, and Pan-Broiling 325
Stocks 158
Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Griddling 333
Ingredients 158
Simmering 343
Procedures 162
Braising 352
Reductions and Glazes 169
Convenience Bases 170
Sauces 171
Understanding Sauces 171
Roux 172
Other Thickening Agents 176
Finishing Techniques 177
Sauce Families 179
Production 182
Chapter 9 Soups 223
Understanding Soups 224
Classifications of Soups 224
Service of Soups 225
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vi CONTENTS
Chapter 12 Understanding Poultry Chapter 15 Cooking Fish and Shellfish 471
371
and Game Birds
Baking 472
Composition and Structure 372 Broiling and Grilling 478
Inspection and Grading 373 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 486
Classification and Market Forms 374 Deep-Frying 494
Handling and Storage 378 Poaching and Simmering 499
Doneness 378 Steaming and Mixed Cooking Techniques 509
Trussing Methods 379 Seafood Served Raw 517
Cutting Up Chicken 380
Chapter 16 Understanding Vegetables 523
Chapter 13 Cooking Poultry and Game Birds 385
Controlling Quality Changes
During Cooking 524
Roasting and Baking 386
Broiling and Grilling 399 Controlling Texture Changes 524
Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Deep-Frying 406 Controlling Flavor Changes 525
Simmering and Poaching 419 Controlling Color Changes 526
Braising 427 Controlling Nutrient Losses 528
Dressings and Stuffings 438 General Rules of Vegetable Cookery 529
Standards of Quality in Cooked Vegetables 529
Handling Vegetables 530
Chapter 14 Understanding Fish
441 Fresh Vegetables 530
and Shellfish
Processed Vegetables 553
Production and Holding Problems in Quantity Cooking 556
Fin Fish 442
Storage 557
Composition and Structure 442
Special Problems in Cooking Fish 442
Cutting Fish 443
Chapter 17 Cooking Vegetables 561
Varieties and Characteristics 446
Handling and Storage 454 Boiling and Steaming 562
Shellfish 456 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 576
Mollusks 456 Braising 582
Cephalopods 461 Baking 588
Crustaceans 462 Broiling and Grilling 596
Miscellaneous Seafood 469 Deep-Frying 598
Chapter 18 Potatoes 603
Understanding Potatoes 604
Cooking Potatoes 607
Chapter 19 Legumes, Grains, Pasta,
629
and Other Starches
Dried Legumes 630
Grains 639
Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings 657
Chapter 20 Cooking for Vegetarian Diets 681
Understanding Vegetarian Diets 682
Menus for Vegetarian Diets 684
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CONTENTS vii
Chapter 21 Salad Dressings and Salads 699
Salad Dressings 700
Ingredients 700
Emulsions in Salad Dressings 701
Oil-and-Vinegar Dressings 702
Emulsified Dressings 705
Other Dressings 708
Salads 710
Types of Salads 710
Ingredients 712
Arrangement and Presentation 721
Recipes and Techniques 723
Chapter 22 Sandwiches 761
Breads 762
Spreads 763
Fillings 763
Types of Sandwiches 765 Chapter 25 Dairy and Beverages 833
Making Sandwiches 766
Dairy Products 834
Milk and Cream 834
Chapter 23 Hors d’Oeuvres 781 Butter 836
Cheese 837
Serving Hors d’Oeuvres 782
Coffee and Tea 846
Canapés 782
Coffee 846
Cocktails 786
Tea 849
Relishes 786
Dips 787
Miscellaneous Hors d’Oeuvres 790
Chapter 26 Sausages and Cured Foods 853
Curing and Smoking 854
Chapter 24 Breakfast Preparation 811
Sausages 859
Eggs 812
Understanding Eggs 812
Chapter 27 Pâtés, Terrines,
Cooking Eggs 816 875
and Other Cold Foods
Breakfast Breads, Cereals, and Meats 826
Pancakes and Waffles 826 The Handling and Service of Cold Dishes 876
French Toast 828 Aspic and Chaud-Froid 877
Cereals 830 Special Forcemeat Dishes 882
Breakfast Meats 830 Terrines Based on Mousselines 891
Terrines and Other Molds with Gelatin 893
Foie Gras, Liver Terrines, and Rillettes 899
Chapter 28 Food Presentation and Garnish 905
Hot Food Presentation 906
Fundamentals of Plating 906
Garnish 910
Cold Food Presentation
and Buffet Service 912
Buffet Arrangement and Appearance 913
Cold Platter Presentation 915
Hot Foods for Buffets 917
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viii CONTENTS
ING
VEG
DAI
Chapter 29 Bakeshop Production: Chapter 34 Pies and Pastries 1005
919 TIO
Basic Principles and Ingredients
Pies 1006
Basic Principles of Baking 920 Pie Doughs 1006
Formulas and Measurement 920 Assembly and Baking 1010
Mixing and Gluten Development 923 Fillings 1012
The Baking Process 924 Pastries, Meringues, and Fruit Desserts 1020
Staling 925
Puff Pastry 1020
Ingredients 925 Éclair Paste 1024
Flours, Meals, and Starches 925 Meringues 1026
Fats 927 Fruit Desserts 1028
Sugars 928
Liquids 930
Eggs 931 Chapter 35 Creams, Custards, Puddings,
1033
Leavening Agents 932 Frozen Desserts, and Sauces
Salt, Flavorings, and Spices 933
Sugar Cooking 1034
Basic Custards and Creams 1035
Chapter 30 Yeast Products 937 Puddings 1039
Bavarians, Chiffons, Mousses, and Soufflés 1041
Understanding Yeast Products 938
Frozen Desserts 1049
Yeast Product Types 938
Desert Sauces 1051
Mixing Methods 938
Steps in Yeast Dough Production 939
Appendix 1 Metric Conversion Factors 1054
Dough Formulas and Techniques 944
Bread and Roll Formulas 944
Rolled-In Doughs: Danish Pastry and Croissants 948 Appendix 2 Standard Can Sizes 1054
Makeup Techniques 952
Appendix 3 Approximate Weight-Volume
Chapter 31 Quick Breads 959 Equivalents of Dry Foods 1055
Mixing and Production Methods 960
Appendix 4 Kitchen Math Exercises:
Formulas 962
Metric Versions 1056
Chapter 32 Cakes and Icings 967
Appendix 5 Eggs and Safety 1058
Understanding Cake Making 968
Bibliography 1059
Basic Mixing Methods 968
Cake Formula Types 971 Glossary and Cooking Vocabulary 1061
Scaling and Panning 972 Subject Index 1077
Baking and Cooling 974
Recipe Index 1081
Altitude Adjustments 975
Cake Formulas 976
Creaming Method 976
Two-Stage Method 978
Foaming Methods 979
Icings: Production and Application 981
Producing and Handling Basic Types 981
Assembling and Icing Cakes 986
Chapter 33 Cookies 991
Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 992
Mixing Methods 993
Types and Makeup Methods 994
Panning, Baking, and Cooling 996