464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page III P R O F E S S I O N A L BA K I NG F o u r t h E d i t i o n WAY N E G I S S L E N urin g recipes at fr e o F m Le Cordon Bleu L’Art Culinaire Paris—1895 with a foreword by André J. Cointreau President, Le Cordon Bleu JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page I PROFESSIONAL BAKING 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page II Photography by J . G e r a r d S m i t h 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page III P R O F E S S I O N A L BA K I NG F o u r t h E d i t i o n WAY N E G I S S L E N urin g recipes at fr e o F m Le Cordon Bleu L’Art Culinaire Paris—1895 with a foreword by André J. Cointreau President, Le Cordon Bleu JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page IV Le Cordon Bleu logo is a registered trademark of Le Cordon Bleu B.V. ∞ This book is printed on acid-free paper. Copyright © 2005 by John Wiley & Sons,Inc.All rights reserved Published by John Wiley & Sons,Inc.,Hoboken,New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada Photographs on pages 16,19,73,and 80 were taken at Turtle Bread Company,Minneapolis,Minnesota. Design and page makeup adapted from the third edition by Lee Goldstein. 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Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats.Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books.For more information about Wiley products,visit our web site at www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Gisslen,Wayne,1946– Professional baking / Wayne Gisslen.—4thed. p.cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-471-46427-9 (College)—ISBN 0-471-46426-0:(alk.paper) 1.Baking.2.Food presentation.I.Title. TX763.G47 2005 641.8’15—dc22 2003065002 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page V This book is dedicated to Anne and Jim Smith and their family. 464279 FM.qxd 2/26/04 9:30 AM Page VII Contents Recipe Contents xiii About Le Cordon Bleu xxiii Foreword xxv Preface xxvii 1 CHAPTER BASIC PRINCIPLES 3 Baking—Historical Background 4 Formulas and Measurement 6 Mixing and Gluten Development 12 The Baking Process 13 Staling 14 2 CHAPTER BAKING AND PASTRY EQUIPMENT 17 Large Equipment 18 Pans, Containers, and Molds 22 Hand Tools 25 Miscellaneous Tools and Equipment 26 3 CHAPTER INGREDIENTS 29 Wheat Flour 30 Other Flours, Meals, and Starches 35 Sugars 37 Fats 40 Milk and Milk Products 43 Eggs 47 Leavening Agents 50 Jelling Agents 53 Fruits and Nuts 55 Chocolate and Cocoa 57 Salt, Spices, and Flavorings 60 VII 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page VIII VIII Contents 4 CHAPTER UNDERSTANDING YEAST DOUGHS 65 Yeast Product Types 66 Steps in Yeast Dough Production 67 Types of Dough-Making Processes 74 Controlling Fermentation 75 Bread Faults and Their Causes 78 5 CHAPTER UNDERSTANDING ARTISAN BREADS 81 What Is Artisan Bread? 82 Flour 83 Pre-ferments and Sourdough Starters 84 Autolyse 89 Fermentation 90 Baking 90 Artisan Bread Formulas 91 6 CHAPTER LEAN YEAST DOUGHS 93 Introduction to Handcrafted Breads 94 Crisp-Crusted Bread Formulas 94 Soft-Crusted Bread and Rye Bread Formulas 100 Sourdough Formulas and Specialty Breads for the Artisan Baker 104 Makeup Techniques 120 7 CHAPTER RICH YEAST DOUGHS 135 Sweet Dough and Rich Dough Formulas 136 Rolled-in Dough Formulas 142 Fillings and Toppings 146 Makeup Techniques 152 8 CHAPTER QUICK BREADS 165 Mixing and Production Methods 166 Formulas 169 9 CHAPTER DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS, PANCAKES, AND WAFFLES 183 Doughnuts 184 Fritters 189 Pancakes and Waffles 194 464279 FM.qxd 2/9/04 2:57 PM Page IX IX Contents 10 CHAPTER BASIC SYRUPS, CREAMS, AND SAUCES 205 Sugar Cooking 206 Basic Creams 210 Dessert Sauces 225 11 CHAPTER PIES 233 Pie Doughs 234 Assembly and Baking 238 Fillings 242 Pie Faults and Their Causes 258 12 CHAPTER PASTRY BASICS 261 Pâte Brisée and Short Pastries 262 Puff Pastry 265 Éclair Paste 279 Strudel and Phyllo 286 Baked Meringues 292 13 CHAPTER TARTS AND SPECIAL PASTRIES 299 Tarts and Tartlets 300 Special Pastries 310 14 CHAPTER CAKE MIXING AND BAKING 323 Mixing 324 Cake Formula Balance 333 Scaling, Panning, and Baking 335 Altitude Adjustments 340 Formulas 341 15 CHAPTER ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES 365 Icings 366 Assembling and Icing Simple Cakes 378 Basic Decorating Techniques 381 464279 FM.qxd 2/9/04 2:57 PM Page X X Contents 16 CHAPTER SPECIALTY CAKES, GÂTEAUX, AND TORTEN 393 Planning and Assembling Specialty Cakes 394 Procedures for Popular Cakes 401 17 CHAPTER COOKIES 427 Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 428 Mixing Methods 429 Types and Makeup Methods 431 Panning, Baking, and Cooling 434 Petits Fours Secs 435 Formulas 437 18 CHAPTER CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS, MOUSSES, AND SOUFFLÉS 461 Custards and Puddings 462 Bavarians and Mousses 473 Soufflés 491 19 CHAPTER FROZEN DESSERTS 495 Churn-Frozen Desserts 496 Still-Frozen Desserts 507 20 CHAPTER FRUIT DESSERTS 519 Selecting and Preparing Fresh Fruits 520 Fruit Desserts 525 21 CHAPTER DESSERT PRESENTATION 545 Background and Guidelines 546 Examples of Dessert Presentations 551
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