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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PRAGUE EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PRAGUE Main Contributor Vladimír Soukup Contents How to use this Guide 6 Project Editor Heather Jones Art Editor Lisa Kosky Editors Ferdie McDonald, Carey Combe Designers Louise Parsons, Nicki Rawson Contributors Petr David, Vladimír Dobrovodský, Nicholas Lowry, Polly Phillimore, Joy Turner-Kadečková, Craig Turp Photographers Jiří Doležal, Jiří Kopřiva, Vladimír Kozlík, František Přeučil, Milan Posselt, Stanislav Tereba, Peter Wilson Illustrators Gillie Newman, Chris Orr, Otakar Pok, Jaroslav Staně This book was produced with the assistance of Olympia Publishing House, Prague. Printed and bound in China by L. Rex Printing Co. Ltd. First American Edition, 1994 14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Rudolph II (ruled 1576–1612) Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Introducing 345 Hudson street, New York, New York 10014 Prague Reprinted with revisions 1996, 1997, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Great Days in Prague 10 1994, 2014 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company Putting Prague on All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, the Map 14 no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the The History of Prague 18 both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Prague at a Glance 38 A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 Prague Through the ISBN 978-1-46541-053-5 Year 52 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. A River View of Prague 56 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email [email protected]. Front cover main image: City rooftops at night and Church of our Lady before Týn, Prague Outdoor café tables The majestic Prague Castle and the Vltava River on a clear night Prague Area by Area Old Town 62 Jewish Quarter 82 Prague Castle and Hradčany 96 Wallenstein Palace and Garden in the Little Quarter Travellers’ General Index 256 Needs Acknowledgments 268 Where to Stay 184 Phrase Book 271 Where to Eat and Drink 192 Transport Map Inside back cover Shopping in Prague 210 Entertainment in Prague 216 Church of Our Lady before Týn Survival Guide Little Quarter 122 Practical Information 224 New Town 142 Getting to Prague 234 Further Afield 158 Getting around Day Trips 168 Prague 238 Four Guided Walks 172 Street Finder 244 Fiacre, Old Town Square Baroque façades of houses at the southern end of Old Town Square (cid:2) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get which covers all the important sights, with the most from your stay in Prague with the photographs, maps and drawings. It also minimum of difficulty. The opening section, includes day trips from Prague and four Introducing Prague, locates the city guided walks around the city. Carefully geographically, sets modern Prague in its researched tips for hotels, restaur ants, shops hist orical context and describes events and markets, cafés and bars, entertainment through the entire year. Prague at a Glance and sports are found in Travellers’ Needs. The is an overview of the city’s main attractions, last section, the Survival Guide, contains including a feature on the River Vltava. useful practical advice on all you need to Section two, Prague Area by Area, starts on know, from making a telephone call to using page 60. This is the main sightseeing section, the public transport system. Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section Each of the five sightseeing describing its history and made simple by the numbering areas in the city is colour-coded character, followed by a Street- system used throughout. The for easy reference. Every chapter by-Street map illustrating the most important sights are opens with an introduction to heart of the area. Finding your covered in detail in two or the part of Prague it covers, way around each chapter is more full pages. Colour-coding on each page makes PRAGUE CASTLE APRNAGUDE AR EA BY AREA (cid:2) 97 the area easy to find in the book. HRADČANY PRAŽSKÝ HRAD A HRADČANY TfIVret1ptouhhn3lastulr 2erceacentl0 vdoe ohdo am asibcfes e s htyttdmodoohu to irwaehbrnyncn eyn C ht od mh atPecfihse nřasaPtee gldl9arlm eeaC ntep’sghday do i u ostscH s a lteuteiilr dhte mtnabiese odtwe.ro u ncTč gabnre ahhiylaannnle isisbgstyl tebri y hnewewyu rc P.aioyi atlTlrbu.hdfsi h nI odt inftenhcoveh egaeeuCde b s naB l ta aCohsdo natupeřeldsiet advrt s liloh av einjace,. e sr , brAbausCAeenneuhtfiat gdedaineltnndn oe rto sghiroarnf eie Ron tngfb hufi Cgrts uCedeh a wio hoelspitfneat l rcpmlt rreee1helhse ra5ee iersIdn4 nIe mG.Iey1 bjVSou n,ot ui ayatnitnmih nerlcoydteddee f i i tnsnbt1Viah,t ca9lsRkmaeld 1euecd oR8lsudnyi sespliea tltdtpasi l unshaau varscoma baa Jefstlalnaaa ihebcgncgb.veeie feleTeayye dhlsrr dnliteoy enay . .t h ylht eho e eu r. Rareecao amrem lisetnedde adn dre psltoatuteradn otns itnh eth me ap. Sights at a Glance POC25iosP40etpHKEPOLaEhROŘVAl uTESSCRAMČSBaL htttroeeacrE raccCVelGpeyravrhhn iahtuseeLtJbiíeluEononocdN PLiČssEhvRsir rNeOÍENcaP’e gshS iarKM NlnVa ÁteePÍaoCnolÝ ’ caasoMpa d e lLcp’ntLaB Oso ehN pO RcMpaa PÁn Ee1R esspMTa a1dtioÁE 1llĚKeAPsN8 iaUTrUSn0cC ÍrtaST–ÁcNB Se6ayRKÍaKlU e1ÁN É –rSSpspaN 9yS1VItpnpC 0KeĚÚE1d1 7TÁr0V2 i C2O2eo––ZU 1KnK4JASAÁ0 RvEENN 5eOL nVEtN NICÚKÍÁVOHRZH38M17wryH6uaP9qNAÁDaiiMuČssr APPLRSSGPSRDNĚttskSNoootcoooioieToeascdKSehÍbuwhyrrKl uwEtlriiad ÉiiwuankbtonHccdmh nelorgWRořb a eeeG SABndw Grrser SDol zt Gua eT rLiUTacarGercgrociaaoelrhdnnzld d wanldwPeo lebd PeerMeaeitoneedarnn lsrGly arrAl esga g c aoncR sePlfeVs I lIapP eKÁlprÁraaNŘ1icgeS1eSKus2 ÁKe– É1C5 a sHtleR ADBJYIŘ S12KÁ HVRseieolelSass Tptt ARa2RSiÉ0uCc Z1HNhrÁAOaCt MDOenHEYPrCOtSYsKAŠTC ÉID KHOYOVTYKOV ACM2NHPA 0UOBD a 0BAR KŠlUmSBGoKTAOĚUROs StSGUVrÁ.Oa STLnROKOMsEÝVkNÁAáŠE lAwsNius uhtlreormeodcrueba s nteiygodorhreiun tdm sga cro aaeinprr eic ntslaheh sreseo. lwapartiseni oaypn oom utinoa tp a. ll the STZRAAHHROAVDSAKÁ 00 ymaerdtrses 252050 See Street Finder maps 1, 2 Ceiling fresco, The Heavenly Banquet, found in the Str9ah8ov Mo(cid:2)n astPeryR AGUE AREA BYF oAr mRaEpA symbols see back flap PRAGUE CASTLE AND HRADČANY (cid:2) 99 1 FiptmbInnholo oeterear tt aeotvtr oceaibdshds iosuyt toaao carrrrntete,d iif tooaiaehn nnnraigess rat n ,e mport cerno eaatauih,mpn mmte tha s sbaelA tsape oorsn.repi edgTsasohd h, o rthaiswvne eldspr DrpSRpwNCpSeturrezeeht eiVertdnaosesicipiooc-rtinnhdCuiidl tpepeotelse ahdaoh’sns splele f t ocsIC r eiIihwoevt,ac rtstsuafiath h oih-hktrldo ehcd eisbpeslh etideltncryae o er Ccylasfsaersietzr,rlyi s e e.ced-H,t . Ta hcosfTeSa hr ha whnaobte phnetRtmsa e cedbiesCrnl o p utsRrai ehun,1eru esgher9bvtbntel a a1ueyttla1oRprlisoh8eia lcieaflbitsss, e tor ni uP th snd eaaP o:ianarGstnancsni riaiesnscensa o Pdgds,dLt d TGc gmtatauPu oa aae htshtn snrrrreRth toe dtecehaieoae aceewC eaoy agt dnbG C aB fnahsfaculelrdafa epasggnoeuireltisscr ldslt mrli etoeseneoi Cr loufeBrneqe fr athy a1naondth us arhet7 seemotote ser 5ol qo ue e ha c3Pof uef.r affirnihC –et evsoshsdc 7a etiefdles 5era e y. n ts’s tTloe R3Ugtohyusaeenl PGdtpoao oirwnwdwe etdndhre eeisrr pTnaoanoswdwt ef aaors r m as tuboserelilnu fgmo u. ndry, 6bthuaeli aol.t Trc nihtcaCngi eseG sW aa attn tsonphlnhhettdliieulset cdewe’ r tlgc’ eisyaTunaoo un tgrfslwetelno iu tL dewsanr1araq eg6teernhu detrorhseeeessf. LSeo8Tnwienhc aCh armiP&e seoRDtn HAto getpuRarGdrarAlrUli Mla DimnM EfPbyČOo a rCLfeAa oallrotAoIdNTg doprsS aTrYuCt T wLT rahefLEpaoos E MeinQt rsowlisrUe ask dv Aipoesási.Rt o n preMTplpEeieR1nsrt 6 tr oo– 1V l t a 7v a parking areas. The area’s key JIŘSKÁ sCihguhrtcs haeres; lMistuesde ubmy csa atnegdo ry: Ta2th Se .t d Vei tScuots rV’sai ttGiuoosnl’ds o eCnna tPthhoeer tfdaerln.a cle GSqaullearreiess; ;P Hailsatcoersic; aSntrde ePtasr kasn d Matthias GaScteoe uc(o1rtn6y1da4 rd)Fcoirustr tyard K 00 ymeayerdtSrsuesggested rou6te060 LTuroh5d1yem6a vltSi halBltau-o cG lhiteseee nddomte rucgicrahoyena r’p spam ateBeialna drostt ifwyin ltrigih ctShsaet. and Gardens. Tnoá mHrěasdtíčanské SLittetples Qduowarnte tro CHhoulyr cRho oofd the A suggested route for a walk TbsIgthyan etcau ozCe pPasi lseoatdstfl z eeoFoec ifggru o.1aht1r8 at98tinteittnhe hstg- h-tSca chGeeroeee niuon a tcgtlntudrhuaotr r sryrwGdy a b emansyntre padsdt aelu arnetidsss. 4TcRtNhoheeennew . cawu eiLsnaa asOlilalnfssoln d dmarc mn ReRado nohe lcylyxase tal.f leiislnl ri.P nieCoag orGl aaoootcffts ehtt hhoiceef a aRprnomadloas mc ce oo vfe trh e 7Ecoxql lLeuocistbiitokeno w waorierck zhs oPouaf slaaercdt e fhroemre .t he Lobkowicz family’s private takes in the most attractive and 2 Street-by-Street Map interesting streets in the area. This gives a bird’s eye view of the most important parts of each sightseeing area. The numbering of the sights ties in with the area map and the fuller descriptions on the pages that follow. (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 Prague Area Map Prague Area by Area tPcTthhhhraeiaesg p fmcuitvoeeaelr op – miu n (esra aePeincderah isgan icrguseoihedav tesAes fesrrreheeodaoinn wtbign cyn oaa Avor feernuearl )asl a oref MatPoctCCmhhhrrnaheooaeeaslaagyss strOrttslea uleh , e clo oea doasatf frve f in TBet scertohd are hs aiwaes ondeyn hc tsng osdmrioa emuga ausl,al hin w aftpjPietohdtlslrils elrr ao lat odo sghfhonue iwuetgafdsgh envhdc Jhie ee rstass ais wthybeas.shseocneyi esettwd chti oniLoo en i i Qnns mtn gpot uttileaanne hactnr ir iQttesatythh yer,uby eeo rioqaof umy bruuonnoto ikoeactduo erptal, ki c an etwb.ahn Tgweneadhlel tio lwetu t.e hw Apatcvio.lfne e kttE n kone taanthr cPcir Pfoevehrr rPyoi wa a fsooorigsgiv aftfstuu uie žh n ese egk C ý a Hstrlaed a An dH Hrardačdačnayny 00 ymaerdtrses Je50w05Ji0so0hs eQfouvarter PSatmgreeaepst sF8 i32n–d–4e9r5 (pp60–157). They are highlighted on other maps throughout the b(popo3k8.– In51 P),r afogru eex aatm ap Glela, nthceey help LMittalleá Q Sutraarntear Vltava StOalrdé TMowěsnto locate the top sights. They are also PSatmgreeaepst sF6 i32n–d–4e8r1 used to plot the routes of the river NNoevwé MToěwsnto trip (pp57–9) and the four guided walks (p173). PaSgtmreeaespt 9 sF 6i1n––d21e2r 1 PaSgtmreesae p1t sF2 i12n–d–2e1r4 1 PaSgtmreesae p1t sF4 i32n–d–6e1r5 7 100 (cid:2) PRAGUE AREA BY AREA PRAGUE CASTLE AND HRADČANY (cid:2) 101 O9P1OPMX∑TtspcSiPccsodTROTDPaJarGR o9tTneohiacirahooenrwihaatpuutffenpbaealtaetipm hnuYr oyoinaellide3at gbdehirle c pnelalV maMhonlPrh- alau eeal t0 –uenr KCpeoeoe nc’dotbgrtsrnu2zueeccmg6–aeir i auphnseeltlgi’áTn9 e euastesrpylpd tt VDu3hedohncCcCihnpeasi riitslsiog scmeTooeh e1lnr2nsr.’hitmuaat . weteaetca n te nTtsih CsaTr.)G’nnsau nH tsn torzs r.coo do –T.htsguage eoroue f zf ,yrtolTi PuekMb,e4 iaroewnlnfae 1 led ygb rer oThd raepliýp,ohsiws re ktlrlR e a 6cgNo.Ayhaatus2 km’mC eCso mmoasstashTeausžh 4oái2 assnshflite s tiulhavsenei hnfo ,t sne 8 d oa s g sad k4ilet Btn eHsetpm g,ueor ot edssf, shtGoYénh3ahch eTrs amre duuriahromosf ohai b n etlargeaiPeecl c7trPauTmpisyn eRf rodtosnterboaGgn3 hcnmi reah te1aceAhbtat tui čmtg nqeh tllnHiys nhth5oueycdtina6t lo ib udoedrL sYn a unub3uere ynewoerrlio ota cotdfa dloosBree1b rehcderg rs kyd sm ld.belfitfdoucr e.ukloontmurly y & – seep t oaatoAuáuh iocru utna i .d hno 1cmne.Ratnrhtafr ir,dfrlgyvh let eirt 8 its teittd tn,1c 7itcyerL nha Io h esthLhn Ii,a g9loeadha i t. o a e( enr e is26 dCsped ’ds s 2ae5. nyfy y s.e ,t , l e PicC2CS3PPTA1actw1hgTP1t (awaH9dbPaTd1toheeorarasr ar 458hhřuouruy alaCaaec5aametl Dwieaanrm94-rl egEmn ro ešdsshy2gá7pPhtmSP bin61un–u d .e S os2nčwtGp mir6sádhur&eo6te ,áomrati rwa1ytinio gbhš4–neeeietspa be nlr 0nnsCo aVle3S nt 1cay’cgamersJirs2sVulr wita v eěngef i ^rak tttee6ae7r –b hwd wts.ytžlor dáMS dr 1dn 1cah1 BtV oitaRd oSB.ilrt a 0aadpha orett2í e1e vsKyuo ywit7š(og5 siVsn,ga1trna)lus wnr e. eV.dya K,ii řeefie1odtdi bnoIsdteao;iilstt no aki.sevl 2ustNr a .hinumncedr rX átbss rkol 2Tilpds oe p1’eunygřic i as.bes l’hojsrk usTpvv t 5, oOhhc lek tpl tt eV t–cev nteM2lC4áohtov oo bhp hMleheRlI if.2ndl9aeI ooeawaopeeu,M’rebries –awtd,l retrntlfrn ou ih ueormeeoehf3fhiloarfdi: gstoi.n sieeAdrr o)rpre9te rfbi ee 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Csmit ahe1e ecc o een.am eleeácors htstuoif mirnttdetsdTdosho7 lnteeno, h brdw unl hlua o ’eBe fhrsoig a tyi hgb tna w mrdLrg cneeudired,e idm nto heni temfranei v hs ths grihiv ijsn elvřSlrpg oltltai y sqaaotbtlieen eie 9ise tevtc ogilala rnui nee i dgr7rgor aesonnn-e,.eedx 3 ejnfd .e . dtst pbtcfAmbtibc1wronlMcbof tiwasf Fnneooleaouhtorono9rtuauyuo çaaeitcisrrocoGi rhenam5nnd cigosm iioytsylrPnedllRas veuooko0nedtvst Cei ketrn tFineua t r btdesmf rlna i rsidaetah armrdneo netda diso,regsiaulandags u enwtedogftlegBa lodr ntlu lo ceiue hrt sl gntnl tu oh salc y2hteztwrtpevhd tmpttmo. e eNvorhoo a0 h ’LeteawoBlabaoapRalVbCPe sBKleihweeddeahiat neum aon od enblllo sieueauevaeareiaelpn cecbntgkh esmnaltsoIor. nd iie tcefwnott-dit .tIshhrom máoaonnheio e nok’2lo khewt ds mTeratrN rluJodobiřree hsmuos as dnar 2 h nuga hetamusfurtaub2ttsah .te ol mmy dhoeetrh denwkShhfwssop r(d pehTsc4wnto i foe atsotb e tae ácwaraeet osieewhh eirhopod iiehhlgiaGdn srhhnsisssCs ,ieann Ttl i r n eth e aelee 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Plnit(Nsainnipoisrerguec pt atetshlam2hhcu dt a5etmed’ bsl0it l ci co S–enpatahth 5prgovrlas5ee isIap sa) einri.itn etnttmife od fofeFeron a.virrinrtp m emotsd or rnpayeae e tlrttfsa ieaihioocgcreenenhh n t y ,c oeu 3 Detailed Information on each Sight The Visitors’ Checklist All the important sights in Prague are described provides the practical information individually. They are listed in order, following the you will need to plan your visit. numbering on the area map. Practical information on opening hours, telephone numbers, admission charges and 102 (cid:2) PRAGUE AREA BY AREA PRAGUE CASTLE AND HRADČANY (cid:2) 103 fscaiagcnhil ibtt.i eeT hsfo eau vknaeidyla otbonle tt hihsee g sbiyvamecnkb foflolarsp eu.ascehd 2KWtFtucjeoheranweooen ttnSr kieetolkuc dlotr shbtrhdr vya áeeeM e nVagl rrHadsa.ra c H tu onSithtshihf vtsio st.eJe i uenmoVt wtec híotatt shWnosmase o f’a,oa b sAnVncrf s isrádo Lt.r’ yCfuc alFa o“’lsxsiraGnd. eta mvAaiogmsalfoeottltybs dseAc,h o tc rot K ouhVdhniemreoinitsgs igjtc npt.ddi ”aéTnul eWetchcehrathtedeeteia avhnd fdtie,c orr bl sSeal atwywsl n alh1oaardo9srbcmk uthi(h apsoiatn-epner a s2kPc tn 2tteihhnd –tweee3 12 a r)bc30. sPur4t otahi4hlwrd- le oeinn nr g liisnkTuethre retrohi sosueul.rne p,r ndaep dr sFontetehl r ayorrtevi iicfb nne ehtugg hxalt yt enttBe hr ddecureie asotc cstvtrhhero aoaeseurn fasdtl stttchreeheeaaddesllt., FSdPPMCMd4VrorpauariaoIa;auitmr Slgn8hpiyctnuah –I)e t(g.2Tm ietdS 5Tco aDsOroCa, ae t7w92la,lr R :p:n. 7Isv3 eOntmoiaS0rlcfepm:oa e’o O, Ae mnsCt rM)pnph–m H(r&5i eNor9–apd nnaE1oOtm m–1cvi1Ccooa –0 tS–SnmK)uMaa.6u rm7tLp ant Sy&rm –Iu:(a Se6 6tnr &oxdppT. c .mm e p t GOagnrtgu httohetyeeirl r oe tsrsrpandoaiutteitos wn aaerels dt g ifsirvogenuntis , e. 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Main entrance Nfeuatmurbees roefd t hceir csilgehs tp loisitnetd o iunt a k keeyy . tbriepg1lPei0rSS9n-inn6tt2s1 ca0 VW6o0ev i BtneRe 0uSu ndo0opsict lrybbduedtauinsienhslidralginstlsai ěcboo oavyfff GoTtoahLmriucc1xhbA c3e iroat41mrefta4 2hcPsb t e0řKbo eMd0imuenrgaragygtli s.nt J lfhFo soOre heuwtwnnano ckdoorahksffr II1Pwa3or5lr1ek6r 41o o BMs4c0unuc2as0 moutts1h ntpo meeH fytr rPo ucbSiefansutotst eieVrhilitddriuee tPe mudstaro sr r’Pa slceleort nert1c ino5um8e91p 6Rle1tchpo0ata6oreyka0t1uadehy9sl ee oet rdCov oremaaflr lv b ai1n sc9i sa2tts9h eCda1ord17nad87ls, e7e0ncdd2 eNr1e baatJeaor8otelwtiy sg0oht eo 1in 0snopw,t w0sfoeh 0 eSfeew 0Mrtcsp oWatoylo erfenmtkec aea nkorprvesc nelf reeai rstfetelaedsr GTPmirttnihhhebo orettebeteh r Gheiesren k ioP Gcgcdillal dloeVetsrhetal laeoihrncaurlfiaty c lPa at ts sreoariueecnr rpf chetganahpninetleo e.svtscr heo ttoar ft n fh e umsaeUid1nan 4 otmctinlah ott -shhscpaeeeei dnc1c rt9oiauatfllrh ey oT nchcVetcee.rna anLtsnaeui oGcstritenyao J, ns tula.dh dcnAiegrsdban mw ofi ttPvesa ioemnss trtsi etthbt aniieylsll. 4 Prague’s Major Sights Historic buildings are dissected to reveal their interiors; and museums and galleries have colour-coded floorplans to help you find important exhibits.

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