Pot Roast, Politics, and Ants in the Pantry: Missouri's Cookbook Heritage

248 Pages·2008·17.07 MB·English

by  Carol Fisher

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Pot Roast,
Politics, and
Ants in the
Pantry
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Pot Roast,
Politics, and
Ants in the
Pantry
Missouri’s Cookbook Heritage
Carol Fisher and John Fisher
University of Missouri Press Columbia and London
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Copyright © 2008 by
The Curators of the University of Missouri
University of Missouri Press, Columbia, Missouri 65201
Printed and bound in the United States of America
All rights reserved
5 4 3 2 1 12 11 10 09 08
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Fisher, Carol, 1949–
Pot roast, politics, and ants in the pantry : Missouri’s cookbook heritage / Carol Fisher and
John Fisher.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Summary: “A revealing look at the history of Missouri cookbooks from the 1800s to today.
From Julia Clark’s simple frontier recipes to Irma Rombauer’s encyclopedic Joy of Cooking to
Missouri producers’ online recipe collections, the Fishers show how cookbooks provide history
lessons, document changing foodways, and demonstrate the cultural diversity of the state”—
Provided by publisher.
ISBN 978-0-8262-1791-2 (alk. paper)
1. Cookery—History. 2. Cookery—Missouri—History. 3. Cookery—Missouri—
Bibliography. I. Fisher, John C., 1949– II. Title.
TX648.F57 2008
641.509—dc22 2007052492
This paper meets the requirements of the
American National Standard for Permanence of Paper
for Printed Library Materials, Z39.48, 1984.
Designer: Kristie Lee
Typesetter: BookComp, Inc.
Printer and binder: Thomson-Shore, Inc.
Typefaces: Adobe Caslon, Big Caslon, and Onyx
The University of Missouri Press gratefully acknowledges Paul Newman
for his generous contribution in support of the publication of this book.
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This book is dedicated to Becky and Adolf Schroeder, avid
Missouri historians, who have inspired us to learn more about
Missouri, our home state, and to Jean Chambers Gibbs,
who enjoyed cooking pot roast for the family.
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Contents
Introduction 1
Chapter 1 Cookbooks Come to Missouri 3
Chapter 2 A Taste of Nineteenth-Century Publications 11
Chapter 3 Community Cookbooks 28
Chapter 4 A Serving of Ethnic Cookbooks 52
Chapter 5 Missouri Cookbooks Record History 65
Chapter 6 Individually Authored and Edited Cookbooks 88
Chapter 7 Producer and Festival Cookbooks 105
Chapter 8 Company/Product Cookbooks 119
Chapter 9 Cookbooks from Restaurants Past and Present 140
Chapter 10 World Events and Politics in Missouri Cookbooks 153
Chapter 11 Kitchen Medicine, Housekeeping Tips,
and Cookbook Literature 165
Chapter 12 A Final Perspective 180
Appendix: Selected Recipes 183
Notes 197
Bibliography 209
Index 225
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Acknowledgments
We are thankful for our mothers, Wilma Chambers and Eunice Fisher,
who provided good Missouri food for our families, served with valuable food
stories that connected us to our past.
Numerous organizations and individuals have contributed to the project
by donating cookbooks, answering questions, and sharing helpful informa-
tion. As well, let us not forget Missouri’s cookbook authors, editors, com-
pilers, and cooks, who have preserved and who continue to preserve not only
their kitchen ways but also their lives through their contributions to the
state’s buffet of cookbooks.
Special thanks to the Blue Owl Restaurant and Mary Hostetter, the
Campbell Chamber of Commerce, Eagle Family Foods, Inc., Farmland
Foods, the First United Methodist Church Women Unionville and Jean
Pratt, Hammons Products Company, Harter House in Springfield, the Mis-
souri Bison Association and Fred Neumann, the Missouri Pork Association,
Missouri SOS Archives and Laura Jolley, the Missouri State Teachers Asso-
ciation, the Missouri State Bee Keepers Association and Neil Bergman, the
Pennytown Freewill Baptist Church Cookbook Committee and Virginia
Huston, the Principia and Peter Shay, the Richmond Chamber of Com-
merce, St. James Winery, the Soy Bean Merchandising Council, Stone Hill
Winery, Unity and Sharon M. Sartin, Wicker’s Food Products, and the
Independence Junior League and Alison Hill.
Thanks to Sylvia Forbes, John and Mary German, Nancy H. Grant, Sue
Hall, Jean Hamacher, Angie Thompson Holtzhouser, Jean Mowrer, Anne
Moyer, Dean and Lois Preuett, Jean Rissover, Tina Waibel, Barbara Willen-
berg, Twila Melton, Patricia Shell, and Carol Habgood.
Appreciation also goes to valuable archivists and librarians and to libraries
and historical societies, in particular the Augusta Historical Society and Ellen
Knoernschild, the Dunklin County Library staff, Michigan State University
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