Pizza and Pizza Chefs in Japan: A Case of Culinary Globalization

174 Pages·2011·2.33 MB·English

by  Rossella Ceccarini

Pizza and Pizza Chefs in Japan:
A Case of Culinary Globalization
Social Sciences in Asia
Edited by
Syed Farid Alatas
Vineeta Sinha
Chan Kwok-bun
VOLUME 31
Pizza and Pizza Chefs in Japan:
A Case of Culinary Globalization
By
Rossella Ceccarini
LEIDEN • BOSTON
2011
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Ceccarini, Rossella.
Pizza and pizza chefs in Japan : a case of culinary globalization / by Rossella
Ceccarini.
p. cm. — (Social sciences in Asia ; 31)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-90-04-19466-3 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Pizza industry—Japan. 2. Ethnic
food industry—Japan. I. Title.
HD9330.P663C43 2011
338.4’764182480952—dc22
2010051435

ISSN 1567-2794
ISBN 978 90 04 19466 3
Copyright 2011 by Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands.
Koninklijke Brill NV incorporates the imprints BRILL, Hotei Publishing,
IDC Publishers, Martinus Nijhoff Publishers and VSP.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, translated,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission
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Fees are subject to change.
A Caty

CONTENTS
List of Figures and Tables ................................................................ ix
Acknowledgements ............................................................................ xi
List of Abbreviations ......................................................................... xiii
Chapter One Introduction ............................................................ 1
1.1 Chapter Outline, Guiding Theories and Questions ....... 10
Chapter Two The Cultural Object: Pizza ................................... 17
2.1 The Word and the Thing: The Origin of Pizza .............. 19
2.2 From the Bottom to the Top: How Pizza Climbed the
Social Ladder and Went Global ........................................ 23
2.3 In Search of the Lost and Perfect Pizza: Associations
and Certifications for Pizza Authenticity ........................ 28
2.4 Varieties of Pizza in Japan: Fry Pan and Mochi Pizza
as Examples of Glocalization ............................................. 34
2.5 Conclusion ............................................................................ 39
Chapter Three The Social World: Italian Restaurants .............. 43
3.1 The Pizza Pioneers: 1950–60s ............................................ 48
3.2 Pizza Chains and Italian Cuisine: 1970–1980s ............... 51
3.3 A Never Fading Trend: 1990–2000s ................................. 54
3.4 Today ..................................................................................... 58
3.5 Conclusion ............................................................................ 63
Chapter Four The Receiver: The Consumer .............................. 67
4.1 Customers and Media Representations of Italian
Cuisine ................................................................................... 69
4.2 Chef ’s Perception of Japanese Consumers and of
Italian Cuisine in Japan ...................................................... 81
4.3 Conclusion ............................................................................ 88
Chapter Five The Creator: The Pizzaiolo ................................... 91
5.1 An Occupation in Evolution ............................................. 93
5.2 The Italian Pizzaiolo in Japan ............................................ 100
Vignette A) Massimo, in Japan since 1999 (38 years
old at the time of interview) ....................... 100
viii contents
Vignette B) Peppe, in Japan since 2006 (24 years old
at the time of interview) .............................. 102
5.3 The Japanese Pizzaiolo ........................................................ 107
Vignette C) Hisanori (30 years old at the time
of interview) .................................................. 109
Vignette D) Satoshi (47 years old at the time
of interview) .................................................. 115
5.4 The Pizzaiolo Goes Global ................................................. 120
5.5 Conclusion ............................................................................ 122
Chapter Six Conclusion: Towards New Understandings of
Food Glocalization ........................................................................ 125
6.1 The Food Package ................................................................ 127
6.2 Transabroad Glocalization ................................................. 129
6.3 Transnational Worker Flows and Occupational
Formalization ....................................................................... 130
6.4 Conclusion ........................................................................... 134
Appendix Research Design ........................................................... 137
References ........................................................................................... 145
Index .................................................................................................... 157
LIST OF FIGURES AND TABLES
Figure 1.1 The Cultural Diamond
(From W. Griswold 2004) .................................................................. 11
Figure 2.1 Semitic Epicentre and Mediterranean diffusion of
the term Pizza (Courtesy of M. Alinei and E. Nissan) ................. 27
Figure 2.2 Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana
(Courtesy of Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) ................... 29
Figure 2.3 Pizza Napoletana STG
(From the Official Journal of the European Union,
February 2010) ..................................................................................... 31
Figure 2.4 Japanese Pizza ................................................................ 38
Figure 4.1 Pizza Lesson for Children
(Courtesy of G. Errichiello) ............................................................... 79
Table 1 AVPN in Japan ................................................................... 39
Table 2 Number of Popular Italian Restaurants 1944–2005 ...... 65
Table 3 AVPN in the World .......................................................... 66