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ITIMEI IIIH® BOOKS Other Publications: PLANET EARTH COLLECTOR'S LIBRARY OF THE CIVIL WAR LIBRARY OF HEALTH CLASSICS OF THE OLD WEST THE EPIC OF FLIGHT THE SEAFARERS THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COLLECTIBLES THE GREAT CITIES WORLD WAR II HOME REPAIR AND IMPROVEMENT THE WORLD'S WILD PLACES THE TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF BOATING HUMAN BEHAVIOR THE ART OF SEWING THE OLD WEST THE EMERGENCE OF MAN THE AMERICAN WILDERNESS THE TIME-LIFE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF GARDENING LIFE LIBRARY OF PHOTOGRAPHY THIS FABULOUS CENTURY FOODS OF THE WORLD TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF AMERICA TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF ART GREAT AGES OF MAN LIFE SCIENCE LIBRARY THE LIFE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES TIME READING PROGRAM LIFE NATURE LIBRARY LIFE WORLD LIBRARY FAMILY LIBRARY: HOW THINGS WORK IN YOUR HOME THE TIME-LIFE BOOK OF THE FAMILY CAR THE TIME-LIFE FAMILY LEGAL GUIDE THE TIME-LIFE BOOK OF FAMILY FINANCE This volume is one of o series thot explains ond demonstrates how to prepore various types of food, ond thot oHers in eoch boOk on international anthology of greot recipes. -------------------THE GOOD COOK---------------- TECHNIQUES & RECIPES ~ies& ~astries BY THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS ---------------TIME-LIFE BOOKS/ ALEXAN DR lA, VIRGIN lA--- -- --- Cover, A lattice top lor a tort offers a tantalizing preview of the cherry filling within. To create the lattice, short-crust dough was cut into strips with a serrated pastry wheel, and the strips were interwoven on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (pages 26-27). Chilling then mode it possible to transfer the Iettice intact to the top of the filled tort prior to baking. Time-Life Books Inc. CHIEF SERIES CONSULTANT Alan Davidson is the author of four cookbooks and is a wholly owned subsidiary of Richard Olney, an Ameri the founder of Prospect Books, which specializes in TIME INCORPORATED can, has lived and worked scholarly publications about food and cookery. Pot Founder, Henry R. Luce 1898-1967 for some three decodes in Alburey, special consultant for this volume, is a Editor-in-Chief, Henry Anatole Grunwald France, where he is highly member of the Association of Home Economists of President, J. Richard Munro regarded as on authority Great Britain. She has been responsible for some Chairman of the Boord, Rolph P. Davidson on food and wine. A regu of the step-by-step photographic sequences in this Executive Vice President, Clifford J. Grum lar contributor to such in volume. Alice Woo/edge Salmon, special consultant Chairman, Executive Comminee, James R. Shepley fluential journals as La Re for this volume, is a chef who has worked at Mo Editorial Director, Rolph Groves vue du Vin de France and Cuisine restaurant and at the Connought Hotel in Vice Chairman, Arthur Temple Cuisine et Vins de France, London. She is a contributor to many publications, he also has written numer including the Journal of the International Wine and TIME-LIFE BOOKS INC. ous articles for other gas Food Society. FRANCE: Michel Lemonnier, cofounder Editor, George Constable. Executive Editor, George tronomic magazines in the and vice president of Les Amities Gostronomiques Daniels. Boord of Editors, Dole M. Brown, Thomas H. United States and France. He is, too, the author lnternotionoles, is a frequent lecturer on wine and Flaherty Jr., William Frankel, Thomas A. Lewis, Martin of The French Menu Cookbook and of the award vineyards. GERMANY: Jochen Kuchenbecker trained as Mann, Philip W. Payne, John Paul Porter, Gerry Schremp, winning Simple French Food, has directed cooking a chef, but has worked for 10 years as a food pho Gerold Simons, Nokonori Tashiro, Kit von Tu lleken. Art courses in France and in the United States, and tographer in several European countries. Anne Bra DDiirreeccttoorr, oTfo Amd mSuinziusktri;a tAiosnsi,s tDaantv, idA rLn. oHlda rCri.s oHno.l eDyirweecltlo. r of is a member of several distinguished gastronomic kemeier is the co-author of three cookbooks. ITALY: Operations, Gennaro C. Esposito. Director of Research, societies, including La Confrerie des Chevaliers du Massimo Alberini is a well-known food writer and Carolyn L. Sackett; Assistant, Phyllis K. Wise. Director of To stevin, Les Amities Gostronomiques lnternotion journalist, with a particular interest in culinary histo Photography, Dolores Allen Littles. Production Director, oles, and La Commonderie du Bontemps de Me ry. His many books include Storio del Pronzo oll'lto Feliciano Madrid; Assistants, Peter A. lnchouteguiz, Koren doc et des Groves. Working in London with the liono, 4000 Anni o Tovolo and 100 Ricette Storiche. A. Meyerson. Copy Processing, Gordon E. Buck. Quality series editorial staff, he has been basically respon THE NETHERLANDS: Hugh )!OmS has published two cook Control Director, Robert L. Young; Assistant, Jomes J. Cox; sible for the planning of this volume, and has su books and his recipes oppeor in o number of Dutch Associates, Daniel J. McSweeney, Michael G. Wight. Art pervised the final selection of recipes submitted by magazines. THE UNITED STATES: Judith Olney received CGoaollrodwinaayto Gr, oAldnbneer Bg.; LAasnsidstrayn. tCs, oCpey liRoo Bomea Dttiiere, cRtoicrk, i STuasralonw Gotohoedr cConosouk ltahnatss . bTeheen Urneitveisde dS tabteys tehde itiEodni toorfs T hoef hcoenr dcuucltins acryo otkrainingi ncgl asins eEsn fgrloamnd haenr dh oFmraen cine . DSuhre Time-Life Books to bring it into complete accord ham, North Carolina, and has written two cook President, Carl G. Jaeger. Executive Vice Presidents, John with American customs and usage. books. Robert Shoffner, wine and food editor of The Steven Maxwell, David J. Welsh. Vice Presidents, George Washingtonian magazine for six years, has written Artondi, Stephen L. Boir, Peter G. Barnes, Nicholas Benton, CHIEF AMERICAN CONSULTANT John L. Conovo, Beatrice T. Dobie, Corel Floumenhoft, Carol Cutler, who lives in Washington, D.C., is the many articles on food and wine. James L. Mercer, Herbert Sorkin, Poul R. Stewart author of three cookbooks, including the award winning The Six-Minute Souffle and Other Culinary THE GOOD COOK Delights. During the 12 years she lived il) France, she studied at the Cordon Bleu and the Ecole des The original version of this book was created in London lor Trois Gourmondes, and with private chefs. She is a Time-Life Books B.V. member of the Cercle des Gourmettes, a long European Editor, Kit von Tu lleken; Design Director, Louis Klein; Photography Director, Pomelo Morke; Planning established French food society that is limited to Correspondents: Elisabeth Kraemer (BonnJ; Margot Director, Alon Loth ion; Chief of Research, Vanessa Kromer; just 50 members. Hopgood, Dorothy Bacon, Lesley Coleman (londonJ; Chief Sub-Editor, lise Grey; Production Editor, Ellen Brush; Susan Jones, Lucy T. Voulgoris (New Yorkl; Mario Quality Control, Doug los Whitworth SPECIAL CONSULTANT Vincenzo Aloisi, Josephine du Brusle (Parisi; Ann Jolene Worthington received degrees in pastry mak Notonson (RomeJ. ing and condymaking from the Culinary Institute of Valuable assistance wos olso provided by: Bono Schmid, Stoff lor Pies & Pastries, Series Coordinator, Liz Timothy; America in Hyde Pork, New York, and worked as a Mario Teresa Morenco (Milan); Judy Aspinall, Karin B. Heed Designer, Rick Bowring; Text Editor, Ann Tweedy; restaurant pastry chef for many years. Formerly the Pearce (london); Carolyn T. Chubet, Miriam Hsio, Anthology Editor, Morkie Benet; Stoff Writers, Alexandra Test Kitchen Chef in recipe development at Cuisine Christine Lieberman (New York); Mimi Murphy (Rome). Corlier, Joy Ferguson, Mary Herron, Them Henvey; Designer, Zoki Elio; Researchers, Ursula Beery, Nora Corey, magazine, she conducts classes in cooking and <!:> 1981 Time-life Books B.V. Morgoret Hell, Eleanor Lines, Deborah Litton; Sub-Editors, pastry making at Cook's Mort in Chicago. She has <!:> 1981 Time-life Books Inc. All rights reserved. Katie Lloyd, Solly Rowland; Design Assistant, Cherry Doyle; been largely responsible for the step-by-step pho No port of this book moy be reproduced in ony form or by ony elec· Editorial Deportment, Pot Beag, Deborah Dick, Beverly tographic sequences in this volume. Ironic or mechanical meons, including information storage and re Doe, Philip Garner, Brion Sombrook, Molly Sutherland, ptruiebvliaslh deer,v eicxecse potr thsyast tbemriesf, pwoisthsoougte sp rmioor yw briett qenu opteerdm fiosrs iroenv iefrwosm. the Julio West, Helen Whitehorn PHOTOGRAPHER Second printing. Revised 1982. Printed in U.S.A. Aida Tutino, a native of Italy, has worked in Milan, Published simultaneously in Co node. New York City and Washington, D.C. He has won School and library distribution by Silver BurdeN Compony, U.S. Stoff lor Pies & Pastries, Series Editor, Gerry Schremp; Morristown, New Jersey 07960. Assistant Editor, Ellen Phillips; Designer, Ellen Robling; Chief a number of awards for his photographs from the Researcher, Barbero Fleming; Picture Editor, Christine New York Advertising Club. TIME-LIFE is a trademark of Time Incorporated U.S.A. Schuyler; Stoff Writers, Corel Dono, David M. Schwartz; Researchers, Moriono Toit (techniques!, Ann Ready INTERNATIONAL CONSULTANTS for information about any Time-life book, please write: (onthologyJ, Kerin Kinney; Assistant Designer, Peg GREAT BRITAIN: Jane Grigson has written a number Reader Information, Time-life Books Schreiber; Art Assistant, Robert K. Herndon; Editorial of books about food and has been a cookery cor 541 North Fairbanks Court, Chicago, Illinois 60611 Assistants, Brenda Harwell, Rosalie Yotes respondent for the London Observer since 1968. library of Congress CIP dote, poge 176. -----------------------CONTENTS----------------------- INTRODUCTION 5 Sweet artifice / Transforming sugar into syrups and glazes I Icings based on fondant I Pastry cream: A classic, satin textured filling I Meringue: A multipurpose amalgam of egg whites and sugar SHORT CRUST 15 1A versatile dough family /The shaping and baking of two 2 crust pies I A woven lattice to invite the eye I Molding with a flan form I Baking in barquettes I An upside-down tart of wine drenched fruit ITu rnovers: Packages for full-bodied fillings I Blind baking a shell to ensure its crispness PUFF PASTRY 47 A layered miracle of lightness /Constructing a tart with high rising sides /Two inspired French inventions I A revealing top for 3 a rectangular case I Scalloped edges for a circular envelope I A brilliant marriage of cream and pastry I Molding or folding small hollow shapes I Fanciful morsels made with scraps CHOU 63 A paste with special properties I A twice-cooked foundation I Cream-filled eclairs coated with chocolate I Deep frying ribbons of paste I Pastries in partnership I Miniature 7Lt confections glossed with fondant I A fantasy of puffs and caramel I Sculpting with chou SPECIALTY PASTRIES Rolling rich mixtures in strudel/Layering or coiling phyllo assemblies /Connoli: Deep-fried pipes of wine-flavored dough ITw o fryings to make pastry petals I Crumb crust: A container with a unique texture I Snowy shells created from meringue ANTHOLOGY OF RECIPES 87 Fruit pies 88 I Custard and cream pies 107 I Cheese pies and cheesecakes 120 I Nut, vegetable and meat pies 126 I Puff pastries 140 I Chou. pastries 14 7 I Strudel and phyllo pastries 150 I Fried pastries 155 I Fillings 160 I Standard preparations 162 RECIPE INDEX 168 GENERAL INDEX/GLOSSARY 171 RECIPE CREDITS 174 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176 - - - - -- - -- -INTRODUCTION-- - - - - - - - - Sweet c:.Artifice Mrs. John Baines, the redoubtable matriarch of Arnold Ben grain-and-water pastes that served as food staples in Neolithic nett's turn-of-the-century novel The Old Wives' Tale, had strong times, 10,000 years ago. views on the subject of pastry. She believed that "in pastry mak The evolution of these crude pastes into the delicate confec ing, everything can be taught except the 'hand,' light and firm, tions now called pastry began at the margins of recorded his which wields the roller. One is born with this hand or without it. tory. Among the earliest pastry makers are those shown on a And if one is born without it, the highest flights of pastry are bas-relief in the tomb ofPharaoh Ramses II at Thebes; the sculp impossible." Having infinite faith in her own hand and none in ture proves that 30 centuries ago, Egyptian bakeries sold a vari those of her servants or daughters, she made the family's pies ety of sweets-coarse ones, by today's standards-made from and tarts herself, every Friday. grain meal and enlivened by fruits, honey and spices. In ancient For all her general good sense, Mrs. Baines was overstating Greece, pastry making was more masterful: The Fifth Century the case considerably. Fragrant, golden apple pies, eclairs bulg B.C. playwright Aristophanes refers to all sorts of pastry cre ing with pastry cream and gleaming with chocolate icing, and ations, including a tart filled with grapes and almonds that was even many-layered strudels are created not by lucky cooks en served daintily wrapped in fig leaves. Similar ingredients were dowed with inborn manual gifts, but by thoughtful cooks who used later in Roman pastries, and by the Fourth Century A.D., understand the materials and principles of their art-and the business of pastry making had flourished to such a degree spend a little time practicing. that its practitioners had their own guild, the pastillarium. Rec This book teaches everything needed for an understanding ipes surviving from the period include some for tarts filled with of the art of pastry making. On the following pages are step-by cheese and some for tarts filled with custard. step demonstrations explaining the preparation of elements Despite the colonizing efforts of imperial Rome, Western that appear in all types of pastry-the sugar syrups, glazes and Europe in the early Christian era appears to have languished in fondants used for decoration, the satiny creams that enrich so a kind ofc ulinary dark ages; when it came to cooking, the simple many pastry assemblies, and the meringues that serve as top imperative of nourishment overshadowed creativity and refine pings for pies or as tart shells in their own right. Each of the next ment. In the rich kingdoms of the Middle East, however, the three chapters is a comprehensive guide to a particular type of situation was quite different. The Seventh Century banquets of pastry dough: specifically, short crust, puff and chou. The chap Persia's Sassanid kings, for instance, were noted for their opu ters begin by showing methods of making the basic doughs, and lence, and descriptions of these feasts-of which there were continue with lessons in the many ways of shaping, filling and many-offer enticing catalogues of pastries, many ofthem fla cooking those doughs. The final chapter in the first half of the vored with almonds. book concerns some of the exotica of pastry-the making of such At that time, the peoples of the Middle East used foods un delicacies as Austrian and Hungarian strudel, Middle Eastern known in Europe. Sugar cane had been cultivated in the area phyllo, deep-fried pastries and meringue shells. since the armies of Alexander the Great brought it from India in The second half of the volume is an anthology of more than the Fourth Century B.C. (Europeans made do with honey.) 200 recipes, gathered from cookbooks representing the world's From the Orient came the spices and nuts-cinnamon, ginger, cookery literature. The anthology complements the techniques nutmeg, cloves, almonds and walnuts-that gave such distinc demonstrations: By using the recipes to develop the skills tion to Arabic cuisine. learned from the demonstrations, any cook can indeed reach the These delicious flavorings appeared in Spain after the Mus "highest flights of pastry." lim invasion in the Seventh Century, and they spread more widely as a result of the Crusades of the 11th Century and the An evolving genre development of trade routes between East and West. At first, Pies and other pastries appear in hundreds of guises, but almost European cooks used them with wild abandon. Sugar was sprin all are composed in essentially the same way: Containers made kled on everything, sweet or savory, and the employment of ofd ough are shaped to hold sweet fillings such as fruits, egg-rich spices was startling, to say the least. Consider, for instance, the custards or delicate creams. The pastry doughs all are based on apple pie of Thillevent, the famous 14th Century chef to the the same ingredients-flour, fat and water. Like bread and Valois kings of France. His pie was filled with figs and raisins, pasta doughs, pastry doughs are descendants of the primitive as well as apples that had been pounded to a pulp and soaked in 5 INTRODUCTION wine-and the flavorings were saffron, cinnamon, ginger, an book is quite similar to that for the flaky-pastry dough demon ise, sauteed onion and chopped raw purslane, a sharp-tasting strated on pages 50-51.) The first cookbook by an American was herb much favored at the time. Amelia Simmons' American Cookery, published in Hartford, Because Venice was the great Medieval trade center, im Connecticut, in 1796. This writer, who pathetically described porting thousands of tons of spices each year from Alexandria herself as "an American orphan," advertised the "best modes for and Beirut, Italian cooks were the first to absorb the advanced making Pastes, puffs, pies [and] tarts." lessons of Arabic cuisine. The earliest known European cook book,DeHonesta Voluptateet Valetudine (OfHonestlndulgence Fancies and furbelows and Good Health), published in 1474, contained hundreds of Pies and pastries are meant for delight rather than for suste recipes by a man named Martino, described as cook for "the nance; in most cases, they serve as dessert, a pleasurable treat Most Reverend Monsignor, the Chamberlain and Patriarch of at the end of a meal. It is not surprising, therefore, that pastry Aquileia" (Aquileia was a town near Venice). Martino used sug- cooks devote so much effort to presentation, for food like this must tempt the eye as well as the tongue. Dough, being mallea ble, is particularly suited to decorative and inventive arrange ments, a fact exploited by pastry chefs since the early days of the art of pastry making. The "four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pie" of the old nursery rhyme, for instance, are not at all apocryphal: Pastries of this dramatic type were much favored for Renaissance ban quets. Martino himself provides explicit instructions for "the making of pies that Birds may be alive in them and fly out when it is cut up." And there are reliable records of pies that were large enough to enclose live rabbits, dwarves and even a 28- piece orchestra. (The pastry was cooked before the occupants entered it, obviously.) The apogee of this form of culinary entertainment was reached by Robert May, the 17th Century English author ofThe Accomplisht Cook or The Art and Mystery of Cookery. In his ar as the Arabs did, to make dishes that were specifically sweet, book, May proudly described a banquet that included, among and his pastries were also full of spices of the Middle East. other dubious creations, a huge pastry stag and two giant pies, The year 1570 saw the publication of the first Western book one filled with live frogs and one with blackbirds. When the first that clearly explored the Arabic art of pastry making, as pie was cut open, "out skip some frogs, which make the ladies to gleaned from Arabic treatises on food translated in Venice. This skip and shreek," as might well be expected. Then the birds thorough and copiously illustrated volume was the work of Bar were released from their pastry prison, and the beating of their tolomeo Scappi, chef to Pius IV, a pope well known for his love of wings extinguished the candle flames, leaving the party in pies. Scappi offered more than 200 recipes, including one for a darkness. May's conclusion was that "flying birds and skipping kind of puff pastry made with lard. frogs, the one above, the other beneath, will cause much delight By then, the Italians' techniques for producing delectable and pleasure to the whole company." pastries had begun to spread into France-partly through the May's interest in pastry presentation was not confined to agency of the notoriously gluttonous Catherine de' Medici, who creating pandemonium, however. He also offered abundant il brought her own pastry chefs with her when she married the lustrations of happier means of decorating pastries, many of Duke of Orleans in 1533. A century later came the first French which are used today. publication devoted exclusively to pastry making. Appearing in Short crust, for instance, is so flexible that-as May sug 1655 and attributed to the chef La Varenne, the book was distin gested-itcan be woven into a lacy lattice top forpies(pages26- guished by careful instructions for measurements and for tem 27); it can also be cut into decorative shapes to embellish a perature control during baking, and it described the same tech turnover (page 35). Puff-pastry dough can be molded into tiny niques for making short-crust and puff pastry that we use today. cornucopias (pages 58-59), and chou paste can be piped from a With this book, pastry making was marked in the West as a pastry bag to make miniature swans, or formed into puffs that recognized art-one that could be taught. From that day to this, are piled up as spectacular, towering pyramids (page 70). In cookbooks and cooking instructors have devoted a large part of open-faced tarts, the filling provides handsome effects: Fruit their attention to the techniques of handling dough and fillings. slices handled like fans will fall into the shell in perfectly over In 18th Century London, for instance, a cook named Edward lapped, concentric rings (pages 36-37); whole fruits can be ar Kidder published Receipts of Pastry and Cookery, in which he rayed in neat rows of alternating color. In many cases, a garnish carefully listed dates and times for the pastry-making lessons is the means of pleasing, and a pastry bag, when deftly used, will he offered to fashionable ladies. (Kidder also claimed to have transform whipped cream or meringue into flower-like puffs or invented a new kind of puff pastry; the method described in his ribbon-like scrolls (page 45). 6 The basic materials large articles at a time. No oven can generate enough heat to The success of a finished pastry, plain or fancy, depends in part compensate for overloading. on the quality of the basic materials, especially flour and fat, for For crisp pastry, dry heat is essential. Avoid baking pastry these determine the texture of the dough. All pastry requires with a steam-producing dish such as a stew, which might con wheat flour as a base. Only this flour contains the gluten pro taminate the pastry's flavor in addition to spoiling its texture. teins that, activated by liquid, unite the flour particles into a An accompaniment of wine cohesive dough. The type of wheat flour to choose depends on the In many countries, pastries are served as snacks to accompany dough you wish to make. Most pastry doughs, such as short strong black coffee-as in the famous coffee houses ofVienna crust and chou paste, are made with all-purpose flour, which or hot chocolate, as in Spain. But when pastries are served as contains a mixture of hard and soft wheats that affords a gluten dessert, wine is a natural accompaniment. content high enough to make the doughs resilient without loss The best wines for the purpose are the white, naturally of tenderness. Puff-pastry dough, which produces the lightest sweet dessert wines-the French Sauternes and Barsac, the and most delicate of pastries, is made from a mixture of all purpose flour and low-gluten cake flour. On the other hand, doughs that must be strong enough to stretch into huge, trans parent sheets, such as strudel and phyllo, should be made of strong, high-gluten bread flour. Fat serves to tenderize the flour, and also adds flavor to a dough. Among the various fats used in pastry making, unsalted butter contributes the most luxurious flavor, and it is recom mended throughout this book. Another possibility is lard-ren dered pork fat. Used either on its own or in combination with butter, lard has a bland taste and produces a more tender and crumbly result than butter does; if you wish to use it, reduce the fat proportions by about 15 per cent to account for lard's higher fat content-about 99 per cent compared to 80 to 85 per cent for butter. Do the same if you wish to substitute vegetable shorten ing or margarine for all or part of the butter. In Mediterranean countries, olive oil is sometimes used to make pastry; it yields a very soft and distinctively flavored dough and is substituted for butter in a proportion of 4 to 5. German Beerenauslese and more rarely found Trockenbeeren Knowing your oven auslese, and the sweet Hungarian 'Ibkay. All these wines are Of all the equipment you will use to prepare pastries, your oven made from grapes that are harvested late. Their juices are con is the most important. Be aware, first of all, that thermostats centrated into a fragrant essence, which gives the wines a won are not always accurate. It is wise to monitor the temperature of derful depth and richness. 'Ib prevent them from being heavy, your oven with an oven thermometer: Preheat the oven to the the wines should be served well chilled; two hours in the refrig desired temperature and move the thermometer from place to erator or an ice bucket will bring them to the proper tempera place inside it to find out whether or not it heats evenly. ture-450 to 50° F. [7° to 10° C.]-without making them so cold You may well discover that the oven has hotter and cooler as to mute their taste. areas. Usually, the top and back areas of the oven are hotter Pastries served with wine should always be less sweet than the wine that accompanies them; otherwise, the wine's subtle flavors will be masked. Some ingredients are best enjoyed with out wine. Chocolate, for example, overwhelms a wine, and very creamy fillings may interfere with the enjoyment of a wine's flavor. Acid fruits such as strawberries or lemon may undercut the richness of a sweet wine, but apples, pears and peaches make excellent companions, as does any filling prepared with almonds. The Pithiviers shown on page 46, for instance, would be magnificent with a Sauternes; the apple tart shown on pages 36-37 would also balance the qualities of a fine, sweet wine. There are many other such marriages, and the search for new than the bottom, and it is best to bake pastries on the middle partnerships provides much scope for pleasurable excitement shelves, turning them around during baking to ensure that they the same absorbing adventure as is found in exploring the var cook evenly. In any case, do not bake more than two or three ied art of pastry making itself. 7