Pie A Global History Janet Clarkson the edible series Edible SeriesEditor:AndrewF.Smith isarevolutionarynewseriesof booksdedicatedtofoodand drinkthatexplorestherichhistoryof cuisine.Eachbookrevealsthe globalhistoryandcultureof onetypeof foodorbeverage. Alreadypublished Pancake KenAlbala Spices FredCzarra Pizza CarolHelstosky HotDog BruceKraig Hamburger AndrewF.Smith Forthcoming Bread WilliamRubel IceCream LauraWeiss Cake NicolaHumble Lobster ElisabethTownsend Caviar NicholaFletcher Milk HannahVelten Dates NawalNasrallah Pasta KanthaShelke Cheese AndrewDalby Soup JanetClarkson Chocolate SarahMoss Tea HelenSaberi Cocktails JosephM.Carlin Tomato DeborahA.Duchon Coffee JonathanMorris Vodka PatriciaHerlihy Curry ColleenTaylorSen Whiskey KevinR.Rosar FishandChips PanikosPanayi Wine MarcMillon Pie A Global History Janet Clarkson PublishedbyReaktionBooksLtd GreatSuttonStreet London, www.reaktionbooks.co.uk Firstpublished Copyright©JanetClarkson Allrightsreserved Nopartof thispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrieval system,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic, mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,withouttheprior permissionof thepublishers. PrintedandboundinChinabyC&COffsetPrintingCo.,Ltd BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Clarkson,Janet Pie:aglobalhistory.–(Edible) .Pie I.Title .’ -: Contents Prologue: Preliminary Observations on Pie 1 A Brief History of Pie 2 The Universal Appeal of Pie 3 Pies by Design 4 Filling Stuff 5 Special Occasion Pies 6 Around the World with Pie 7 Imaginary Pies Epilogue: The Future of Pie Recipes Select Bibliography Websites and Associations Acknowledgements Photo Acknowledgements Index Prologue: Preliminary Observations on Pie Imaynotbeabletodefineapie,butIknowonewhenIseeit. RaymondSokolov It behoves, I am told, every author to consider the scope of herworkbeforelaunchingintoit.Noproblem,Ithought.It issimple.ItisaboutPie.Itisalso,Iamtold,essentialforthe authortodescribethescopeof herworkatitsbeginning,in ordertoforewarnherreaders.Simple,Ithought.Iwillstartby definingPie.Intheend,Ifailedutterly.Iwouldhaveagonized less over my failure had I remembered the above quotation ratherearlierinthepiecethanIdid.If theillustriousanderu- dite Raymond Sokolov cannot define pie, who am I even to attemptit?Nevertheless,Idon’tregrettheattempt,asitwas fascinating and enlightening in ways that I would not have suspected. I began with a memory I had of a venison pie I once ordered at an upmarket restaurant. After exactly the right anticipatory interval my dinner arrived. It was very elegant. On a base of fluffy garlic mashed potatoes was a cleverly layered construction of julienned vegetables topped with sliversof tender,rarevenison,thewholesurmountedwitha precariously balanced disc of puff pastry. It was delicious, butitwasnotpie.Iwasquitesurethatitwasnotpie.Clearly, the chef and I had vastly differing opinions on the issue, which brought me to an early epiphany. When – and if – I came up with my concise, accurate definition of pie, not everyoneelseintheworldwouldagreewithit. But surely there would be some areas of consensus as a startingpoint?Piesarenotpiessimplybecausetheyarecalled pies. The American treat called Eskimo pie, for example, is unequivocally ice cream, and moon pie is a chocolate biscuit with pretensions. Boston cream pie is certainly a cake, but apparentlycalledpiebecauseitisbakedinapietin,bywhich logic I could cook porridge in a pie pan and call it ‘porridge pie’. Other ‘pies’ are more problematic. Is a sausage roll a small pie? Should I include cobbler and pandowdy, which seem like failed pies with broken lids? Traditional Scottish blackbunandEnglishsimnelcakearefruitcakeswithpastry shells.Dotheycount?Iponderedcottagepieandshepherd’s pie.Thesehavealayeredpie-likestructurecertainly,butwere (tome)instantlydefinableasnot‘real’pies.Whynot?Another epiphanydawned.Becausetheyhavenopastry.Itseemedthat myattemptatdefinitionwasdevolvingintoasetof minimal criteria, at least for the purposes of this book. This second epiphanyledtotheFirstLawof Pies:‘NoPastry,NoPie’. ForreasonswhichwillbecomeapparentinchapterOne, I immediately came up with the Second Law of Pies: they mustbebaked,notfried(orboiled,orsteamed).Onemore lawastothenumberandlocationof crustsrequired(single top,singlebottom,ordouble),andmycriteriawouldbeset –orsoIthought.FormulatingtheThirdLawof Piesproved tobeanextraordinarilydifficultpartof thechallenge,andI amstillfarfromsurethatIhaveresolveditinasatisfactory manner. I began my crust count with the Oxford English Dictionary,whichassertsthatapieis:
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