Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor PDF
Preview Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor
Copyright © 2007 by Peter Reinhart Photography © 2007 by Ron Manville Photographs here by Hazen Hunter All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Reinhart, Peter. Peter Reinhart’s whole grain breads : new techniques, extraordinary flavor / Peter Reinhart; photography by Ron Manville. p. cm. Includes index. 1. Bread. 2. Cookery (Cereals) I. Title. TX769.R41875 2007 641.8’15—dc22 2007106660 eISBN: 978-1-60774-130-5 Cover design by Nancy Austin The wheat diagram is used with permission from the Wheat Foods Council. v3.1 This book is dedicated to my wife, Susan, who understood how hard this book would be to write, who got me through it, gave me time, space, and patience, and kept me sane. And to our oldest cat, Lily, who considered herself executive editor of all late night typing sessions, keeping me company and occasionally deleting passages with her head as it rested on the keyboard. CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INTRODUCTION I. FOLLOWING THE FLAVOR: A BREAD BAKER’S JOURNEY BACK TO WHOLE GRAINS II. FROM WHEAT TO EAT: A TUTORIAL The Life and Times of Wheat The Anatomy of a Wheat Kernel The Twelve Stages of Bread Revisited Enzymes The Secret Life of Dough III. THE THEORY AND PROCESS OF DELAYED FERMENTATION Making the Pre-doughs Making the Final Dough Master Formula Techniques for Forming Traditional Bread Shapes IV. THE BREADS GLOSSARY RESOURCES INDEX THE BREADS ENRICHED BREADS 100% Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread Transitional Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread Multigrain Struan Transitional Multigrain Sandwich Bread Oat Bran Broom Bread Rye Sandwich Meteil Rye Sandwich Seigle Transitional Rye Sandwich Bread Potato Onion Rye Meteil Potato Rosemary Bread Anadama Bread Whole Wheat Cinnamon Raisin Bread Whole Wheat Cinnamon Buns Transitional Cinnamon Raisin Bread (and Buns) Whole Wheat Challah Transitional Challah HEARTH BREADS Whole Wheat Hearth Bread Transitional Country Hearth Bread Multigrain Hearth Bread Transitional Multigrain Hearth Bread High-Extraction Flour Miche Three Rye Hearth Bread Variations Transitional Rye Hearth Meteil Transitional Rye Hearth Seigle SPECIALTY BREADS Power Bread Whole Wheat and Sprouted Grain Bread 100% Sprouted Grain Bread Whole Wheat Mash Bread Multigrain Mash Bread Steamed Boston Brown Bread Spent-Grain Bread INTERNATIONAL BREADS Transitional German-Style Many Seed Bread Whole Wheat Brioche Vollkornbrot Bavarian Pumpernickel Hutzelbrot with Dried Fruit Swedish Limpa Rye Bread Santa Lucia Buns Hapanleipä and Vorterkaker Julekage, Panettone, and Stollen BAGELS AND FLATBREADS Whole Wheat, Multigrain, and Pumpernickel Bagels Whole Wheat Focaccia Transitional Rustic Bread and Focaccia Whole Wheat and Multigrain Pizza Dough Whole Wheat Pita Bread Whole Wheat Naan Chapatis, Parathas, and Roti Injera CRACKERS Whole Wheat Matzo Lavash Thin Wheat Crackers Seeded Crackers Graham Crackers ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First of all, there are nearly 350 recipe testers that must be thanked again and again. The passion, perseverance, and dedication of these home bakers is the secret ingredient of this book. I will list them all at the end of this section, but want to acknowledge you all, as a group, right up-front. In addition, there are many people and companies who lent their expertise and ingredients to my research. Thank you to Susan Miller, Jeffrey Hamelman, and the King Arthur Flour Company, as well as Paula LaBine and Tim Huff of General Mills. Both companies contributed many pounds of white wheat flour for testing as well as technical consulting from Jeffrey and Tim. Bill Weekly, who was the technical baker at SAF Yeast for nearly two decades and who has been one of my main go-to consultants for years, was, yet again, there for me when I needed him. A number of cereal chemists from the American Institute of Baking were also very helpful, explaining to me the challenges of whole grain baking in layman’s language. Thank you to the Wheat Council for providing the wheat kernel graphic. Jeff and Janet Ganoung, of Great Harvest Breads of Charlotte, who not only wrote an excellent essay on the nutritional benefits of whole grains but also supplied me with freshly milled wheat and whole wheat kernels. Monica Spiller, Jennifer Lapidus, Debra Wink, and Emily Buehler also contributed extensive bread science essays, background stories, and research but we just ran out of pages to include them here (see the resources for how to access their excellent and important essays). The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the single greatest source of collective artisan and craft baking knowledge in America and without its generous members, like Dave Miller, Michel Suas, Craig Ponsford, Didier Rosada, Abe Faber, Ciril Hitz, Richard Miscovitch, Mitch Stamm, Gina Piccolina, and many others, I would know far less than I do and would never have been able to connect the dots of my bread journey. Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina, under the leadership of President Arthur Gallagher and Culinary Deans Karl Guggenmos, Peter Lehmuller, and Wanda Copper, has been exceedingly generous and accommodating, allowing me both time and space to complete this book and to test the formulas. My campus bread baking colleagues, Chefs Harry Peemoeller, Jeff Alexander, and Sadruddin Abdullah provided ongoing support and ideation. A special thanks to Chef Joseph Benedetto, who spent many hours working up the nutritional analysis on his trusty ESHA program. And to Laura Benoit for her sharp proofread. Thanks also to Steve Bardwell and Gail Lunsford of Wake Robin Farm Breads in Marshall, North Carolina, for organizing the annual Asheville Bread Festival, a source of inspiration and key breakthroughs in the writing of this book. Thanks to Jan Byers and folks at the Westeye Group in Charlotte for letting us use their Wolf/Sub Zero kitchen showroom for many of our photo sessions. A very special thank you to photographer Ron Manville for his tremendous dedication, investment, and commitment to this project, and for his willingness to go beyond the call of duty to intuit and create the kind of photos for this book that I’ve been dreaming about for years. Thank you to my classmates and the faculty at Queen University’s creative writing MFA program for workshopping the opening chapter of this book and helping me become a better writer. Thanks also to my agent, Angela Miller, my legal advisor, Ted Grabowski, and to my chiropractor, Dr. Ralph Burris, who kept me functional when my back wanted to quit (and almost did). Finally, enormous thanks to the wonderfully patient and collaborative creative team at Ten Speed Press who offered the full resources of their publishing house to evoke the full potential of this book: Owner Phil Wood; Publisher Lorena Jones; Editorial Director Aaron Wehner; my tireless editor, Meghan Keeffe; Art Director Nancy Austin; and Publicist Lisa Regul. Thank you also to Jasmine Star, Mike Ashby, and Ken DellaPenta for excellent copyediting, proofreading, and indexing, respectively. Again, thank you to the following recipe testers around the world, many of whom who helped identify problems with early prototypes and bring about the breakthroughs that are presented in this book. I hope to meet each of you and thank you personally: Peter Achleitner, Kirsi Allison-Ampe, Alice Ammons, D.J. Anderson, Burleigh Angle, Annie Angle, Raj B. Apte, Pedro Arellano, Michael Arnoldi, Deb Arsenault, Christine Ashburn, James Bairey, Stefan Baumann, Deborah Bede, Gilles Belin, Ina Bellmann, Barbara Bendix, Carla Benedict, Jim Bennett, Irene Bensinger, Barb Blackmore, Mary Blender, Gea Blok, Carla Bone, Jane Borden, Malcolm Boshier, Craig Broderson, Carlton Brooks, Bonni Brown, Diane Brown, Doris Bruntel, Ruth Brutz, Ian Buchanon, Steve Buckner, Sylvia Burgos, Dawn Burstyn, Lucy Burton, Amanda Butter field, Michele Caplan, Bryan Carmenati, Mary Cassidy, Karen Chen, Dana Chiu, Ken Chomic, David Chow, Donna Clancy, Julie Clawson, Jim Clayton, Allen Cohn, Carol Beth Coleman, Sylvia Conard, Kevin Contzen, Margaret Cope, Ann Cornelius, Diane Cotton, Keith Craig, Lori Crews, Bill and Leisel Cruise, Ray D’Esposito, Christine Dalrymple, Lisa Danchak-Martin, Carolyn Dandalides, Jon Davis, Matt Deatherage, Cindy DeCesare, Andre de Graaf, G. Owen Delaney, Robert C. Dempsey, Arthur Denys, Kathy Destadio, Nancy DeVries, Darci DeWulf, John DeYoung, Aranka Dol, Pat Doucette, John Dougherty, Lisa Downing, Pauline Dysko, Barbara Edwards, Karina Egloff, Tony Ernst, Adila Esbhani, Arlene Etzold, Jeff McBride, Jill Farrimond, Pat Fields, Natalie Fine, Laura Fischer, Carol Fisher,
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