Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Volume II: The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes PDF
Preview Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Volume II: The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes
PERFUMES, COSMETICS AND SOAPS With special Reference to SYNTHETICS By WILLIAM POUCHER A. Ph.C, F.R.P.S. Volume Two BEING A TREATISE ON THE PRODUCTION, MANUFACTURE AND APPLICATION OF PERFUMES OF ALL TYPES Sixth Edition Reprinted LOND ON CHAPMAN AND HALL LTD 37 ESSEX STREET, W.C. 2 1950 FIRST PUBLISHED • SECOND EDITION . 1925 THIRD EDITION * . 1928 FOURTH EDITION • 1932 FIFTH EDITION . . 1936 SIXTH EDITION . - 1941 REPRINTED . . - 1950 CatalogueNo. iS^t4 PHnUd m Gt«a Britain by The Aberdeen University Press. Aberdeen. Scotland. Bound by G. & J. Kitcat,Ltd., London. Flexiback Binding. AUTHOR’S PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION Since the publication of the last edition of this work, a considerable amount of research has been devoted by chemists in France and Switzerland to the constitution of some of the flower oils. I have included the more important results in the respective flower monographs, and this information should be useful to perfumers duplicating the various blossom odours. • . I have reviewed the formulae in the light of this work and made adjustments where necessary. 40 Piccadilly, London, W. i, July, 1941. —— Vll CONTENTS .C.HAP.TER..... I. PAGE Historical Sketch 3 — — TheAtlantians —The Chinese TheEgyptians,specimens inthe British Museum Tutankhamen, an—alysis of co—smetics found, uTshees Boif—blpee,rpfeurmfeusmebsymetnhteioEngeydpttihaenrsein—T—hJeewibsahthcosmCeotsimcest——icTshe Koran Persian religions and idolatry Asiatic nations The Greeks—Theophrastus,—descriptionofth—e perfumer’s art and the raw materials he—used The Roman—s Unguent containers Arabian research Oriental cosmetics Perfumes and cosmetics — — in Britai—n TheAct of 1770 Grasse and the nat—ural perfume indus—try The legitimate use ofmodern cosmetics Face mas- sage Face lifting. CHAPTER II. .21 The Production of Natural Perfumks . . . . cIh.emTihsets—pe2r.fuAmgreiciunlttuhrealplraenste.arcRhe—se3a.rTchimewsorokfnofewnucmroeprsouosf — the more important flowers, oils, etc. 4. Theseparation ofthe naturalodoriferousmaterialsbymeans ofdistillation, expre—ssion, extraction (enfleurage, maceration, and vol—atile solvents) Per- c—entage yields of concretes and absolutes Processes patented 5. Statistics. CHAPTER III. The Purchase and Use of Flower Absolutes .54 . . I. Howtobuy—2. Manufacturers’rawmaterials—3. Dilutions and pure absolu—tes—4. Testing the odour—5. S—uggested standards for sale 6. Qualities in artificial flower oils 7. Use ofabsolutes in perfumes, etc. .CH.APT.ER... IV. Odour Classification 60 — — I. Rimmel’s 2. Piesse’s 3. Crockerand Henderson’s. CONTENTS Vlll CH.AP.TER.V... Fixation and Blending . . 66 I. Introduction,pre-fixation,blending,finalfixation—-2. Natuni! fixators, animal, vegetable (including essential oils, balsams, gums, andoleo-resins)—3. Artificialfixators, syntheticaromatic: chemicals, compounds(includingambers, floralfixators,oriental fixators, and toilet water fixators) with formula-—4. Classifica- tion of fixators: (i) Essential oils; (2) Balsams, gums, oleo- rseysnitnhse,tiectsc—.;5.(3)FlSoynwtehreptiecrfaurmoemfaitxiactocrshe;mcilcasaslisfi;ed(a4n)dOtdaol^uirillaetsesd listofthemore importantfloral odours with wide range ofsuit- able fixators. CHAPTE.R.VI.. -90 Monographs on Flower Perfumes . . History, varieties offlowers and theircultivation, odour, natural perfume, chemistry, compoundingnotes, synthetic comi)onc*nts, artificial ottos, alcoholic perfumes, including : Acacia, cassie, carnation, chypre, cyclamen, fern, gardenia, hawthorn, honey- suckle,heliotrope, hyacinth,jasmin,lilac, lily,magnolia,mimosa, narcissus, new-mownhay, orange blossom, orchids, reseda, rose, sweet pea, trifle, tuberose, violet andwallflower. CHAPTE.R ..... VII. Miscellaneous Fancy Perfumes 266 — — I. Non-alcoholic concentrates 2. Well-known recipes 3. Continental practice. ..CH.APT.ER ... VIII. Toilet Waters 296 . . — I. Introduction, Honey water, Hungary water 2. Eau de Cologne, history, original type, modern prototypes, quickly matured, flower modifications, terpeneless, cheap, frozen—3. Lavenderwaters,English and French,quicklymatured, amber, — terpeneless andcheap 4. Floridawater, eaude Cananga, and eaude Portugal. CHAPTER IX. Soap Perfumery .318 ^ I. Division of manufacture. Perfuming and milling often a separate business. Milling chips—-2. Soap making. Raw materials, bestquality stock, boilingprocess. Drychips. Cold process. Shaving, transparent, buying milling chips. Super- fattmg—3. Millingprocess, mixing,milling, plodding, stamping. Coloured soaps, pigments and dyestuffs used. Cracking—4, Perfuming, notes on main constituents. Flower oils, matching — — CONTENTS IX PAGE with anexampleofviolet. Perfume components. Formulae for — principal soap perfumes 5. Antiseptic and medicated soaps.' Comparative properties of volatile oils. Antiseptic perfume 6. Perfumed wrappers and boxes. CHAPTER X. Tobacco Flavours 367 I. Origin of tobacco. Plant varieties grown. Cultivation. Curing. Prizing. Constituents—2. Manufacture. Excise re- strictions. Cigars,cigarettes,tobaccoandsnulf,includingperfume and flavour formulas—3. Tobacco duties and statistics. CHAPTER XL Floral Cachous 380 I. Early types of mouth pellets 2. Lozenge-made cachous, standards, base, bouquet and floral flavours with formulae, pro- cess—3. Tablet-made cachous, base, manufacturingprocess. CHAPTER XIL Incense and Fumigants 387 — I. Incense, ancient uses,joss-sticks 2. Fumigating pastilles— — 3. Perfumedincense 4. Perfumedribbon, cards, programmes. CHAPTER XIII. HETs AND Solid Perfumes 391 I. General notes, two types—2. Sachet base—3. Odour formulae—4. Pot-pourri, olla-podrida—5. Solid perfumes. CHAPTER XIV. Fruit Flavours . . . 399 I. Natural fruit juices, preparat—ion, yield—2. Concentration, process and approximate yield 3. Artificial fruit flavours, components and 14 type formulae. APPENDIX 409 INDEX 421 XI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ..... ...... 1. Wooden Toilet.Box..... Facingpage 3 2. Kohl Pots jj 6 3- Kohl Vases jj 7 4. Hair Pins, Stibium Pencils, and Ear Studs . JJ 10 5. Unguent Vases. . . .' . JJ 10 6. Unguent Vase, Kohl Tubes, and Roman Combs H ..... JJ 7. Kohl Tubes in.colou.red g.lass ... JJ 14 8. Razor and Mirrors IS J7 9- Hawk Mirror ..... JJ 15 10. Distillation by Fire 30 ...... JJ II. Distilling Plant 31 ..... JJ 12. Distilling Plant Page 32 .... 13- Distilling Plant...... JJ 33 14- Storage ofFloral Wate.rs .... Fachgpage 34 15- Enfleurage ..... ii 40 16. Storage ofPomades- 40 JJ 17- Defleurage Machine JJ 42 18. Remov^al ofStalks by Vacuum . JJ 42 19. Chassis Grease Surface by new method 43 ..... JJ 20: Chassis Grease Surface by old method 43 ..... JJ 21. Maceration Process 44 JJ 22. Maceration Process 44 .... JJ 23. Maceration Flower Presses JJ 45 24. Volatile Solvent Plant 46 .... JJ 25- Volatile Solvent Plant 46 JJ 26, Volatile Solvent Plant 47 ...... 27. Batteuses for Washing Poma.des.. .. JJ 48 28. Carnations 96 JJ 29. Carnations in cultivation JJ 97
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