Performance Apparel Markets - Global apparel and textile industry

84 Pages·2006·2.19 MB·English

Performance
Apparel
Markets
Business and market analysis
of worldwide trends in high
performance activewear and
corporate apparel
No16 1st quarter 2006
Inside this issue:
• Fast track: environmental issues for
performance apparel: earth first, profits second
• Product developments and innovations
• Seamless knitting and stitch-free seaming
technologies in performance apparel: less
chafing, more comfort
• Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam
technology for stitch-free apparel
• Business update: corporate restructuring;
corporate strategy; counterfeit goods; financial
results; investments; joint ventures,
cooperation and distribution agreements;
markets; mergers, acquisitions and
divestments; patent and trademark disputes;
trade fairs and conferences
• Glossary: terms and definitions
Performance Apparel Markets
ISSN 1477-6456
No 16
1st quarter 2006
Contents
3 Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel: earth first, profits second
9 Product developments and innovations
9 Fabric treatments
9 Health promoting apparel
10 Performance footwear
11 Personal protective apparel
11 Smart fabrics
12 Sports apparel
13 Temperature regulating materials
15 Waterproof breathable technology
15 Wearable technology
17 Seamless knitting and stitch-free seaming technologies in performance apparel
17 Summary
17 Introduction
21 Development of seamless knitting and stitch-free seaming technologies
22 Stitch-free seaming methods and seamless knitting
25 Seamless knitting
27 The market for seamless and stitch-free apparel
28 Key producers
35 Outlook
38 Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam technology for stitch-free apparel
38 Summary
38 Introduction
40 Products
47 Outlook
48 Business update
48 Corporate restructuring
48 Corporate strategy
49 Counterfeit goods
50 Financial results
59 Investments
59 Joint ventures, cooperation and distribution agreements
60 Markets
64 Mergers, acquisitions and divestments
65 Patent and trademark disputes
65 Trade fairs and conferences
67 Glossary
76 Index
Planned for forthcoming issues ...
Cleanroom textiles; chemical protection; corporate wear; flame retardants; footwear fabrics; high performance
socks; next-to-skin wear; organic clothing; radiation protection; sensory technology; stain repellency;
weather- and water-resistant technologies
... plus regular features: Fast track; Corporate profiles; Product developments and innovations; Business
update
©2006TextilesIntelligenceLimited
Performance Apparel Markets
ISSN 1477-6456
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The editor
This issue of Performance Apparel Markets has been researched, compiled and edited by Virginia
Thorp, a freelance editor who also works for the Economist Intelligence Unit.
Statistics
All statistics are drawn from official national and international sources unless otherwise indicated
All tons are metric tons unless otherwise stated
n/a = not available or not applicable
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PerformanceApparelMarkets,1stquarter2006 Fasttrack:environmentalissuesforperformanceapparel
Fast track
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES FOR PERFORMANCE APPAREL:
EARTH FIRST, PROFITS SECOND
ENVIRONMENTAL
Investment in “We are investing in environmentally cleaner technology because it
environmentally cleaner will increase our revenue, our value and our profits ... Not because it
technology will istrendyormoral,butbecauseitwillaccelerateourgrowthandmake
accelerate growth for us more competitive” said Jeff Immelt, the chairman and chief
General Electric executive officer of General Electric—one of the world’s largest
companies.
Pressure for “green” Growing pressure from consumer action groups and governments,
products is also forcing combined with growing consumer demand for “green” products, is
other companies to forcing other companies to consider their environmental impact
consider the environment too—including ones in the textile industry.
The textile industry is Harmful substances associated with textile production can have a
taking measures to detrimentaleffectonhumanhealthortheenvironment.Consequently,
eliminate or reduce the the textile industry is taking measures to eliminate or reduce the
presence of harmful presence of these harmful substances and finding ways to prove its
substances environmentally-friendly credentials.
Environmental concerns Environmental concerns in relation to performance apparel include:
include the effects of
pesticides— (cid:1) the effects of pesticides used during the cultivation of raw
materials such as cotton;
—pollutants— (cid:1) pollutants emitted during production;
(cid:1) the use of dangerous substances in textiles;
—dangerous (cid:1) the use of substances in textiles which may become dangerous in
substances— response to environmental stimuli;
(cid:1) the emission of pollutants at the time of textiles disposal;
—biodegradability, waste (cid:1) the biodegradability of substances;
disposal and (cid:1) waste disposal; and
bioaccumulation (cid:1) the bioaccumulation of substances.
“Greenhouse gases” are During the production of polyamide (nylon), nitrous oxide—one of
emitted during the “greenhouse gases” which contributes to global warming—is
polyamide production emitted.
Potentially hazardous Another concern is with substances in textiles which pose a potential
substances in textiles, hazard to health or to the environment. The heavy metal antimony is
such as antimony, are typically found in textiles made from polyester because it is used as
another concern a catalyst during manufacture and is sometimes used as a flame
retardant.
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PerformanceApparelMarkets,1stquarter2006 Fasttrack:environmentalissuesforperformanceapparel
Antimony has been Antimony has been linked with a number of health problems. For
linked with health example,antimonytrioxide(awidespreadcatalyst)isontheEuropean
problems and can be Unions’s list of dangerous substances because of its carcinogenic
dissolved out of fabrics properties. Although there is no danger from the general use of
and into sweat, saliva polyester textiles, it has been shown that antimony can be dissolved
and blood outoffabricsatrelativelylowtemperaturesandintosweat,salivaand
blood.
Teijin has developed an Ever wary of environmental and health concerns, the large polyester
antimony-free polyester producers are searching for alternatives to antimony. The Japanese
production method company Teijin—faced with strict environmental controls on the use
which uses of antimony in its home country—has developed an antimony-free
titanium-based catalysts polyester production method which uses titanium-based catalysts.
Producers who do not In relation to the production of polyester, the EU Eco-label (see
use antimony can label below) requires that the amount of antimony present should not
their products as being exceed260ppm(partspermillion).However,toencouragetheuseof
antimony-free alternatives, producers who do not use antimony are allowed to label
their products as being antimony-free.
The number of specialist While there are environmental issues relating to the production of
coatings, laminates, these fibres, there are also concerns given the number of specialist
finishes and membranes coatings, laminates, finishes and membranes in the performance
in performance apparel apparel market. Garments which are affected by these issues include
is giving cause for those with waterproof, breathable, windproof, anti-microbial or
concern UV-protectionfinishes.Inparticular,aproliferationofgarmentsmade
from textiles which have anti-microbial properties has heightened the
debate about the use of biocides.
RAISING ENVIRONMENTAL STANDARDS
The industry needs a It is necessary for the industry to have a universal system which:
universal system of
standards for consumers (cid:1) enables consumers to identify those products that are
and manufacturers environmentally-safe; and
(cid:1) providesmanufacturerswithasetofguidelinestowhichtheymust
adhere.
The EU’s Eco-label is In1993theEuropeanUnionlaunchedtheEco-label.Thisusesagreen
available for a range of flower symbol which is awarded to companies that pass various
industries and product criteria.TheEU’slabelisavailableforawiderangeofindustries and
categories, including product categories including one specifically for clothing. However,
clothing, although it has ithasbeencriticisedbecausetheprocessofobtainingthelabelislong
been criticised winded, labour intensive, and expensive.
Switzerland-based Another organisation, Switzerland-based Oeko-Tex (International
Oeko-Tex exists Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textiles
specifically for the textile Ecology),existsspecificallyforthetextileindustry.Intheearly1990s
industry it set itself up as an independent certification body to ensure that
consumers and manufacturers know that what they are making or
buying poses no perceivable health risks.
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Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel
The Oeko-Tex label is The organisation developed the Oeko-Tex label which is an
internationally registered internationally registered trade mark, and—it is claimed—the most
commonly found label of its type. With environmentally-friendly
criteria set out for manufacturers to follow, a company may achieve
certification stating that its products are “clean” of harmful substances.
Such certification is known as Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and is granted
in the form of 12 month licences.
Textiles carrying the Textiles carrying the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label (see Figure 1) are
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 guaranteed to conform to the following:
label are guaranteed to
(cid:1)
conform to certain criteria they do not contain allergenic or carcinogenic dyestuffs;
(cid:1)
chlorine-free bleaching techniques have been used in their
manufacture;
(cid:1)
they are free from formaldehyde or contain only trace amounts
(significantly lower than legal limits);
(cid:1)
a selection of pesticide-free and metal-free materials have been used
in their manufacture;
(cid:1)
they have a skin-friendly pH; and
(cid:1)
textiles used in garments are free from biologically active finishes.
Figure 1
Oeko-Tex label
Source: Oeko-Tex
Oeko-Tex has four classes For certification standards, Oeko-Tex has four classes of product
of product— according to their intended use.
(cid:1)
—Class I covering goods Class I includes all articles, materials and accessories (with the
for babies— exception of leather clothing) for babies up to 36 months old.
(cid:1)
—Class II covering Class II includes garments in direct contact with the skin—defined
garments in direct contact as those which have a large part of their surface in contact with the
with the skin— body. Examples include shirts and underwear.
(cid:1)
—Class III covering Class III includes products which are not in direct contact with the
products which are not in skin—defined as those which may have only a small part of their
direct contact with the surface area in direct contact. Examples include stuffings and
skin, and— linings.
(cid:1)
—Class IV covering Class IV includes decoration material—defined as all articles
decoration material including initial products and accessories which are used in
decoration. Examples include table cloths, floor coverings,
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PerformanceApparelMarkets,1stquarter2006 Fasttrack:environmentalissuesforperformanceapparel
mattresses and furnishing fabrics.
Oeko-Tex 100 also covers fib- As well as finished garments, components such as fibres, yarns,
res, textiles and accessories fabrics and accessories may be certified with Oeko-Tex 100.
Oeko-Tex also runs an Oeko-Tex also runs an accreditation system for environmentally-
accreditation system, and friendly factories, known as Oeko-Tex 1000. Since 1992 Oeko-Tex
has issued 50,000 has issued 50,000 certificates to around 6,500 companies. Almost
certificates to around two-thirds of these companies are based in Europe and many of the
6,500 companies remaining third are based in Asia. Moreover, Oeko-Tex reports that
interest in certification is growing fastest in Asia.
The organisation has Theorganisationhasrecentlyembarkedonacampaigntopubliciseits
embarked on a campaign environmentalservicestotheUSmarket.Theseincludeaseminarfor
to publicise its textile manufacturers which was held in New York in November
environmental services to 2005. At the seminar, Patricia Aburdene, the author of Megatrends
the US market 2010, introduced the term “values-driven consumer” to describe the
63 mnconsumers inthe USAwhichshe estimatesfeel stronglyabout
the environment.
Environmental issues will Ms Aburdene predicts that, over the next few years, environmental
become more important issues will become more important in the USA in a way which will
in the USA be similar to the developments experienced in Europe in the late
1990s.
PATAGONIA—AN ENVIRONMENTAL LEADER
USA-based outdoor Patagonia is a USA-based outdoor apparel specialist. The company,
apparel specialist founded by Yvon Chouinard, is renowned for its dedication to
Patagonia is renowned for environmental issues. In November 2004 Fortune magazine named
its dedication to Yvon Chouinard as one of its “innovation entrepreneurs”. Mr
environmental issues Chouinard summarises his philosophy as “earth first, profits second”.
Patagonia is also a Patagoniaisafoundingmemberof“1%ForThePlanet”—analliance
founding member of “1% of companies which contribute 1% of their net annual sales to
For The Planet” environmentalgroups.Thealliancewasfoundedin2001andnowhas
235 members.
Mr Chouinard is always Mr Chouinard is always looking for eco-friendly ways to make
looking for eco-friendly sportswear—for example, by using pesticide-free cotton and using
ways to make sportswear recycled bottles to make jackets.
The most damaging Patagonia conducted an analysis in the mid-1990s of all the different
apparel fibre is fibres it used in making apparel. The most damaging was found to be
industrially grown industrially grown cotton, which had a high concentration of
cotton, which has a high pesticides. Indeed, 10% of all agricultural chemicals consumed in the
concentration of USA are used to produce cotton. Such chemicals include synthetic
pesticides fertilisers, soil additives, defoliants and pesticides.
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In 1996 Patagonia In1996Patagoniastartedmakingitsentiresportswearlinefrom100%
converted its entire organically grown cotton which is cultivated without harmful
sportswear line to 100% chemicals.AccordingtoMrChouinard,movinginthis“eco-direction”
organically-grown cotton has made the company more profitable because it has put it in a
unique position.
Gap, Nike and Levi Strauss Other companies have taken notice. Indeed some larger and higher
have been influenced by profile companies—such as Gap, Nike and Levi Strauss—have been
Patagonia’s lead influenced by Patagonia’s lead.
Patagonia also uses PCR Patagonia also uses post-consumer recycled (PCR) products in its
products in its garments garments.
It was the first to make Indeed, in 1993 it was the first outdoor clothing company to make
fleece from PCR plastic fleece from PCR plastic bottles. In 2006 it began using PCR filament
bottles yarn sourced from Teijin.
The company is working to PCR filament yarn contains between 30% and 50% post-consumer
create a fully recyclable feedstock—intheformofplasticbottles,polyesteruniforms,tentsand
garment garments—and post-industrial feedstock from yarn and polymer
factory waste products. In fact, Patagonia is working to create a fully
recyclable garment but until it achieves this goal it will continue to
make clothes out of recyclable materials.
The office buildings Thecompany’sofficebuildingsthemselvesarealsodesignedwiththe
themselves are also environment in mind. In 1996 Patagonia built a new service centre
designed with the using recycled and reclaimed materials as well as energy efficient
environment in mind lighting systems.
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Companies are under Environmental concerns are just one of a number of key issues
pressure regarding affecting apparel companies globally. Many companies are under
ethical practices in their pressurefromconsumers,governmentsandthemediaonthequestion
manufacturing of ethical practices in their manufacturing.
Consequently they have Theseethicalissuesincludeworkplaceregulations,factoryconditions
been forced to develop and labour standards. When these have been substandard, they have
and implement sets of attractedalotofnegativemediaattention.Asaresultcompanieshave
ethical standards been forced to develop and implement sets of ethical standards.
WRAP principles were In order to remove inconsistencies which might occur between
developed to remove companies, and to provide one set of standards, the Worldwide
inconsistencies and Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) principles were developed
provide one set of in the mid-1990s by the American Apparel Manufacturing
standards Association.
WRAP is an independent, Today WRAP is an independent, non-profit making organisation
non-profit organisation whichexistsforthepromotionandcertificationoflawful,humaneand
which promotes and ethical manufacturing. Factories apply (for a fee of US$825) to go
certifies lawful, humane through the certification process which involves self-assessment
and ethical manufacturing followed by an independent evaluation when the factory is ready.
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PerformanceApparelMarkets,1stquarter2006 Fasttrack:environmentalissuesforperformanceapparel
Certification is founded on Certificationisfoundedon12guidingprinciples—undertheheadings
12 guiding principles which labour practices, factory conditions, environment and customs
address labour practices, compliance—namely:
factory conditions, the
environment and customs (cid:1) compliance with workplace laws and regulations;
compliance (cid:1) prohibition of child labour;
(cid:1) prohibition of forced labour;
(cid:1) prohibition of harassment and abuse;
(cid:1) compensation and benefits;
(cid:1) hours of work;
(cid:1) prohibition of discrimination;
(cid:1) health and safety;
(cid:1) freedom of association and collective bargaining;
(cid:1) environment standards;
(cid:1) customs compliance and;
(cid:1) security.
Although borne out of the Although borne out of the USA, WRAP is becoming globally
USA, WRAP is becoming accepted and has been endorsed by groups representing apparel
globally accepted manufacturers in 18 countries.
Currently there are Currently, there are WRAP monitors in 20 countries who visit
WRAP monitors in 20 factories and ensure that they are meeting the criteria. Certification is
countries who visit valid for 12 months, during which time a WRAP monitor may revisit
factories the factory unannounced.
WRAP’s aims are not to However, WRAP promotes the line that compliance should not cause
cause undue stress each undue stress each year—its principles represent a change of mindset
year but to change rather than a set of criteria which have to be met annually. Much the
mindsets same can be said for environmental issues.
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PerformanceApparelMarkets,1stquarter2006 Productdevelopmentsandinnovations
Product developments and
innovations
FABRIC TREATMENTS
ARCH CHEMICALS: PURISTA ANTI-MICROBIAL
TREATMENT FOR SYNTHETICS
A new version of USA-based Arch Chemicals—a speciality chemicals company—has
Purista can be applied developed a version of its branded anti-microbial treatment, Purista,
to synthetics which can be applied to synthetics.
Until now it has been used Since its launch in 2001, Purista has been applied only to cotton. The
only on cotton treatment has been used on items such as socks and suit linings.
But demand has grown for But, with the rise in sportswear and activewear made from synthetic
an anti-microbial treatment fibres (such as football shirts and fleeces), demand has risen for an
for synthetic fibre anti-microbialtreatmentwhichisaseffectiveforgarmentsmadefrom
sportswear and activewear synthetics as for those made from natural fibres.
The Purista treatment for A spokesman from the company describes the Purista treatment for
synthetics is an important syntheticsasanimportanttechnicalbreakthrough.Ittookthecompany
technical breakthrough two years to develop a treatment which could be applied to 100%
syntheticfibres orto majorityblendswhich containa highpercentage
of polyester or nylon.
It can be applied directly Unlike some anti-microbial treatments, Purista is applied directly to
to fabric and used with the fabric. It can also be applied with other finishing treatments such
other finishing treatments as non-iron and easy-care finishes, and can work alongside other
and technologies performance technologies such as Coolmax, anti-static and Lycra.
HEALTH PROMOTING APPAREL
MILLIKEN: ANTI-ITCH CLOTHING
DermaSmart provides The USA-based textile and chemical company Milliken has launched
relief from various skin DermaSmart—a rangeofgarments designedtoproviderelief tothose
conditions suffering from various skin conditions.
It reduces itching, The company claims that DermaSmart reduces itching, dryness,
dryness, peeling and peelingandscaling,whichcanbeassociatedwithskinconditionssuch
scaling as eczema, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
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