Peel Manual

18 Pages·2013·0.59 MB·English

by  Yasmin Khan

Peel Manual
Sept, 2013
What is chemical peeling?

Chemical peeling consists of the application on the skin of exfoliating agents to obtain first,
destruction and then regeneration of part of the epidermis and/or dermis.

Chemical peels produce a controlled wound that will result in renewal with the reduction or
disappearance of sun damage, pigmentation, acne lesions, fine lines and wrinkles and
superficial depressed scars. Depth and results depend on the strength of agents used.

Levels of peels

 Very Superficial

 Superficial

 Medium

 Deep
Very Superficial

Superficial

Medium

Deep

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The Fitzpatrick skin scale

The Fitzpatrick skin scale

I. White - always burns, never tans
II. White - usually burns tans with difficulty
III. White - sometimes mild burn, tan average
IV. Moderate brown - rarely burns tans with ease
V. Dark brown - very rarely burns tans very easily
VI. Black – never burns, tans very easily

Wound healing process

Inflammatory
1-3+ days
Redness occurs, platelets form to prevent further bleeding and commence the release of
growth factors. The motive behind the inflammation stage is to seek and destroy bacteria. The
area is swarmed by an array of substances (white blood cells, neutrophils, macrophages) that
de activate bacteria and activate growth factors.
Skin at this stage is red, warm and swollen.
Proliferative
3-10+ days
Increased fibroblast activity stimulates collagen and fibronectin creating more elasticity in the
dermal layer. New blood vessels are formed (angiogenesis). Skin cells divide and produce new
cells.
Skin starts to flake and peel.
Type 3 collagen is produced

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Maturation
28+ days up to 2 years
Collagen is remodelled and realigned creating a plumper dermis. Scar tissue is flattened (if
surgical for example) epidermal layer becomes denser.
Type 3 collagen is replaced by Type 1 stronger collagen.

Skinstitut AHA Enzyme Peel

The AHA Enzyme Peel incorporates the use of peel accelerator to degrease and refine the skin
resulting in a gentle peel. Redness and mild peeling may occur if the skin is not prepped. This
peel is able to be performed on those clients who come into our clinic and are not currently
using the Skinstitut products.
Designed to renew and restore skin’s radiance while soothing, hydrating and micro exfoliating
dry, flaking and sensitised skins
The term "proteolytic" refers to an enzymatic reaction that can digest dead or diseased protein
material without harming living healthy cells.
Unlike abrasive scrubs or other mechanical methods, proteolytic enzymes are selective and
extremely unlikely to cause irritation from pressure or over manipulation.
Contains:
 Papain enzymes – Proteolitic enzymes microexfoliate to promote a softer, smoother
skin without irritation
 Niacinamide – vitamin B3, strengthens skins immune defence thus reduces sensitivity
and irritation, maintains treatment for hyper pigmentation through inhibition of
melanin transfer and regulates sebum production
 Camomile – Soothing and calming
 Hylauronic acid – Hydrating
 Grape seed extract – Antioxidant and strengthening
 D-Panethenol –form of pantotenic acid, provides healing and soothing abilities and
prevents erythema

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Skinstitut AHA Enzyme Peel Post Care

 No active products for 3 days
(Glycolic Cleanser, L-lactic Cleanser 4%, Glycolic Scrub, Retinol, Vitamin C, Even Blend
Serum)
The following products may be used within the first 3 days:
 Gentle Foaming Cleanser
 Rejuvenate 15
 Multi-Active Mist
 Multi-Active Oil
 Repair Balm (1/2 a pea size amount pressed over the face for the first 2-3 days)
 Age Defence SPF 50+ to be worn daily and reapplied every 2 hours
 Moisture Defence
 Enzymatic Micro Peel maybe used to remove peeling skin as and when required. After
48hrs

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Skinstitut Peel Accelerator

The Skinstitut Peel Accelerator will renew, brighten and smooth the skin while proving
antibacterial support and improving hydration.
This unique peel is suitable for most skin types and can be intensified by layering or customized
with Vitamin C according to specific skin needs. Vitamin C will intensify the peel. This may be
beneficial for sun damaged skins, skins that require anti-oxidant protection or skins that may
have had previous peel accelerator treatments and are requiring a more intensive treatment
Peel Accelerator is used to degrease the skin before each peel and as a peel itself
Contains:

 Niacinamide – vitamin B3, strengthens skins immune defence thus reduces sensitivity and
irritation, maintains treatment for hyper pigmentation through inhibition of melanin
transfer and regulates sebum production
 D-Panethenol –form of pantotenic acid, provides healing and soothing abilities and
prevents erythema
 L.Lactic Acid 20% – Alpha hydroxy acid for a more luminous skin
 Glycolic Acid 17% – Alpha hydroxy acid that is known for its anti-inflammatory properties
 L.Mandelic Acid 5% – Alpha hydroxy acid that is used for its anti-bacterial properties
 Canadian Willowherb – a plant extract that has soothing, anti-inflammatory and anti-
microbial activity and is an excellent free radical scavenger
 Witch Hazel Extract – a botanical extract that has potent antioxidant, anti-irritant, anti-
inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties
 Kakadu Plum Extract – powerful antioxidant and free radical scavenger
 D-Biotin –form of vitamin H, stimulates cell development and growth of nerve tissue

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Skinstitut Peel Accelerator pre-peel prep

The following protocol should be followed for 2 weeks prior to the Skinstitut Peel

 Glycolic Cleanser 12% (at least once per day)
This will allow the skin to be able to better tolerate peel (less chance of epidermal
sliding or unwanted blanching of the skin)

 Even Blend Serum both morning and evening to be used to reduce the risk of
hyperpigmentation. Can be omitted if client never suffers from Post Inflammatory
hyperpigmentation or is a Fitzpatrick skin type 1-2.
* When treating stubborn pigmentation add a rice grain size amount of Vitamin C to the
Even Blend Serum.

 Age Defence SPF 50+ morning.
This can be omitted if the client is currently using an SPF

 Patients with history of cold sores should be encouraged to prep prior to peel and post
peel with anti-herpetic medication - eg acyclovir and zovirax.

Skinstitut Peel Accelerator Post Care

 No active products for 3 days
(Glycolic Cleanser, L-lactic Cleanser 4%, Glycolic Scrub, Retinol, Vitamin C, Even Blend
Serum)
The following products may be used within the first 3 days:
 Gentle Foaming Cleanser
 Rejuvenate 15
 Multi-Active Mist
 Multi-Active Oil
 Repair Balm (1/2 a pea size amount pressed over the face for the first 2-3 days)
 Age Defence SPF 50+ to be worn daily and reapplied every 2 hours
 Moisture Defence
 Enzymatic Micro Peel maybe used to remove peeling skin as and when required. After
48hrs
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Skinstitut Ageless Peel

Anabolic resurfacing treatment. This peel will assist in re building the dermis.
Skin Rejuvenating anti-oxidant and amino acid peel
To reduce the appearance of the visible signs of ageing and sun damage. This revolutionary
peel works deep within the skin encouraging healthy new cell production resulting in a
revitalised, smoother radiant complexion
Contains:

 Ceramide Complex - a plant derived mixture of phospholipids that restore the lipid
barrier of the stratum corneum, thus provides a balanced moisture content and
improves skin condition
 Natural SMEC – a natural delivery system, that is non-irritating and absorbs quickly with
no greasy after-feel while providing excellent moisturising for the skin
 L-Mandelic Acid 7% – an Alpha Hydroxy Acid that is used for its anti-bacterial properties
 L-Lactic Acid 15% Is an Alpha Hydrox Acid for a more luminous skin. Exfoliates while
assisting in skin hydration.
 MDI Complex – inhibits the matrix metalloproteinase enzyme activity that degrades
collagen. It protects against UV radiation and other irritants, thus increasing resistance
to physical assaults on the skin
 Oceagen LS – a collagen of marine origin, similar to type 1 human collagen, it smoothes
and softens fine lines and improves moisture levels of the skin
 Vit-A-Like 3% – of botanical origin, used as an alternative to retinol without undesirable
side effects such as irritation, photo damage, oxidation and instability. It stimulates
collagen through fibroblasts and enhances proliferation of keratinocytes, contributing to
skin renewal resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion

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Skinstitut Ageless Peel Prep

The following protocol should be followed for a minimum of 2 weeks prior to the Skinstitut Peel

 Glycolic Cleanser 12% (at least once per day)
This will allow the skin to be able to better tolerate peel (less chance of epidermal
sliding or un-wanted blanching of the skin)

 Even Blend Serum both morning and evening to be used to reduce the risk of
hyperpigmentation. Can be omitted if client never suffers from Post Inflammatory
Hyperpigmentation or is a Fitzpatrick skin type 1-2.
* When treating stubborn pigmentation add a rice grain size amount of Vitamin C to the
Even Blend Serum.

 Retinol or Rejuvenate 15 to be used at night to stimulate the retinoic acid cell receptors

 Age Defence SPF 50+ morning This can be omitted if the client is currently using an SPF

 Patients with history of cold sores should be encouraged to prep prior to peel and post
peel with anti-herpetic medication - eg Acyclovir and Zovirax.

Skinstitut Ageless Peel Post Care

 No active products for 3 days
(Glycolic Cleanser, L-Lactic Cleanser 4%, Glycolic Scrub, Retinol, Vitamin C, Even Blend
Serum)
The following products may be used within the first 3 days:
 Gentle Foaming Cleanser
 Rejuvenate 15
 Multi-Active Mist
 Multi Active Oil
 Repair Balm (1/2 a pea size amount pressed over the face for the first 2-3 days)
 Age Defence SPF 50+ to be worn daily and reapplied every 2 hours
 Moisture Defence
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 After 48 hours Enzymatic Micro Peel may be used to remove peeling skin when
required.

Peel Precautions

 Do not apply over open lesions, eczema, or inflamed psoriasis
 Do not use on Accutane patients. Must allow at least 6 and up to 12 months post
completing medication (check oil levels and sensitivity). Anti-inflammatory, hydrating
treatments only
 Topical Retinoic Acid– wait at least 3 to 4 days
 Facial waxing and hair dyeing, wait at least 7 days
 IPL/Laser treated skin must wait at least 2 – 4 weeks
 No Salicylic peels for aspirin allergy suffers
 No Peels for at least 3 months post facial surgery
 Note: Must allow 4 weeks between last dermal peel and surgery
 Always wear gloves
 Apply Repair Balm corners of the eyes, lips. May apply to flares of nostrils if skin is
irritated. Apply over cosmetic tattoos.
 Have a small hand fan handy
 When removing peel use a cotton pad /fibrella as this will be much gentler than using
gauze and at that time the skin will be in quite a sensitive state.
 When removing the peel do not rub off as this could cause epidermal sliding, use
compression technique
 Always use cold water both to soothe skin and remove excess peel
 Note: Never perform peels on severely dehydrated skin. There could be extreme
penetration of the peel resulting in an adverse reaction
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