PEAKS AND LAMA TO THE FOUR LAMAS THE HERMIT ABBOT OF LACHHEN THE LAMA DAWA, BURSAR OF SPITUK THE LAMA-PAINTER, KONCHHOG GYALTSAN OF P’HIYANG THE LAMA WANGYAL, OF DREPUNG, LHASA Who for my benefit and for the good of all creatures set in motion the Wheel of the Doctrine THIS BOOK IS REVERENTLY DEDICATED PEAKS AND LAMAS By MARCO PALLIS , With one plate in colour, ninety-five photogravure illustrations and three • maps j «2r £ 'X CASSELL AND COMPANY LIMITED LONDON, TORONTO, MELBOURNE AND SYDNEY FIRST EDITION OCTOBER 1939 SECOND EDITION FEBRUARY I94O THIRD (REVISED) EDITION JUNE 1942 FOURTH EDITJfON JANUARY 1946 PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY JARROLD AND SONS LIMITED, THE EMPIRE PRESS, NORWICH 845 CONTENTS INTRODUCTORY NOTES XV PART ONE GANGES AND SATLEJ—1933 I THE BIRTH OF AN EXPEDITION 3 H THE PILGRIM WAY TO GANGOTR1 18 III PORTERS AND SAHIBS 27 IV CENTRAL SATOPANT’H (BY C. F, KIRKUS) 40 V THE GANGES-SATLEJ WATERSHED 50 VI THE HINDUSTAN-TIBET ROAD 68 VII RIWO PARGYUL 83 VIH “BACK TO CIVILIZATION” 96 PART TWO SIKKIM—1986 IX THE ANTECHAMBER OF TIBET 107 X DEFEAT ON SIMVU 126 XI THE ROUND OF EXISTENCE 143 XII THE HERMIT AND THE PILGRIM 178 XIII OF MISSIONARIES AND MOTHS 194 V VI CONTENTS PART THREE LADAK—1986 XIV KASHMIR AND PURIG 207 XV KARGIL TO YURU *. SYMBOLISM OF THE TANTRA 231 XVI “ IF I FORGET THEE 0 JERUSALEM ” 254 XVII THE BURSAR OF SPITUK 269 XVIII LEH 286 XIX “ WHERE RUST DOTH CORRUPT ” 299 XX THE PAINTER OF P’HIYANG AND SPITUK DEBATES 814 XXI PAINTING LESSONS AND LEAVE-TAKINGS 827 PART FOUR AFTERTHOUGHTS XXII THE PRESENT STATE OF TIBETAN ART 343 XXin TIBETAN ART (CONTINUED) — ITS CONNEXIONS WITH THE DOCTRINE 867 XXIV TIBETAN ART—DANGERS AHEAD 382 XXV EDUCATION IN THE BORDERLANDS 394 EPILOGUE 419 INDEX 425 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS “if i forget thee o Jerusalem” Frontispiece HALT ON A PASS IN THE FOOTHILLS facing pagC 22 HINDU TEMPLE AT UTTARKASHI 28 SCAVENGERS AT WORK 28 GORGE SCENERY ON THE PILGRIM ROUTE 80 A FRIENDLY JADH 31 COOKHOUSE GROUP 31 DEODAR CEDAR 88 SATOPANT’h PEAKS 89 HIGH BIVOUAC 40 CENTRAL SATOPANT’H 41 BIRCHWOOD CAMP 62 STTEPHttUX) BOYS IN THE BASPA VALLEY 62 SATLEJ GORGE SCENERY 68 NAMGYAL GF POO 82 RIWO PARGYUL : SOUTH PEAK 88 RIWO PARGYUL : NORTH PEAK 88 PAINTED CEILING OF A VILLAGE GATEWAY 102 WANDERING LAMAS SERENADE US 102 “ INCOMPARABLE MONUMENTS OF MUGHAL ART ” 108 LOOKING ACROSS THE FOOTHILLS FROM KALIMPONG 120 DR. GRAHAM OF KALIMPONG 120 TIBETAN T’HANKA 121 LACHHEN 182 EARLY SPRING IN ZEMU VALLEY 188 vii