Patternmaking for Menswear PDF
Preview Patternmaking for Menswear
PATTERNMAKING FOR MENSWEAR PATTERNMAKING FOR MENSWEAR GARETH KERSHAW Laurence King Publishing Published in 2013 by Laurence King Publishing 361–373 City Road, London, EC1V 1LR, United Kingdom T +44 20 7841 6900 F +44 20 7841 6910 [email protected] www.laurenceking.com © text 2013 Gareth Kershaw Published in 2013 by Laurence King Publishing All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. A catalog record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978 1 78067 016 4 Technical drawings: Elisha Camilleri Fashion illustrations: Thom Davies Design: Lizzie Ballantyne, Lizzie B Design Senior editor: Peter Jones Picture researcher: Julia Ruxton Printed in China CONTENTS INTRODUCTION PATTERNMAKING IN CONTEMPORARY MENSWEAR CHAPTER ONE PREPARATION FOR PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT STUDIO PRACTICE MEASURING THE MALE FIGURE TAKING MEASUREMENTS DRESS FORMS FIT MODELS SIZE CHARTS CHAPTER TWO THE PATTERNMAKING PROCESS THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE DESIGN BASIC UPPER BODY SLOPER BASIC SLEEVE SLOPER BASIC PANT SLOPER CREATING A MASTER PLAN HOW TO TRACE OFF A PATTERN GRADING PRINCIPLES OF PATTERNMAKING USING TECHNOLOGY CHAPTER THREE THE PATTERNS: SHIRTS LONG-SLEEVED COLLARLESS SHIRT SHORT-SLEEVED POLO SHIRT HOODED SWEATSHIRT CASUAL LONG-SLEEVED SHIRT LUMBERJACK SHIRT SHORT-SLEEVED SAFARI SHIRT BIB SHIRT CHAPTER FOUR THE PATTERNS: PANTS HIGH-WAISTED PANTS CHINOS BASIC SWEATPANTS TAILORED SHORTS CARGOPANTS JEANS CHAPTER FIVE THE PATTERNS: OUTERWEAR ANORAK FITTED DENIM JACKET TRENCH COAT SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET WAXED JACKET PARKA GLOSSARY INDEX FURTHER READING PICTURE CREDITS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS A modern interpretation of a classic icon, Woolrich Woolen Mills’ “Balmac” trench coat. The company’s use of original fabrics (Maxima Poplin) from the Woolrich looms emphasizes the functionality and detailed approach they take to creating outerwear.
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