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HONG KONG The Anthropology of a Chinese Metropolis ANTHROPOLOGY OF ASIA SERIES Publishedby Curzon Press and UniversityofHawai'i Press Series editor GrantEvans UniversityofHongKong Asia today is one of the most dynamic regions of the world. The previouslypredominantimageof'timelesspeasants'hasgivenwaytothe image offast-paced business people, mass consumerism and high-rise urban conglomerations. Yet much discourse remains entrenched in the polaritiesof'Eastvs. West', 'TraditionvsChange'. Thisserieshopes to provide a forum for anthropological studies which break with such polarities. It will publish titles dealing with cosmopolitanism, cultural identity,representations,artsandperformance.Thecomplexitiesofurban Asia, itselites, itspoliticalrituals, anditsfamilies willalsobeexplored Dangerous Blood, Refined Souls DeathRituals among the Chinese in Singapore TongCheeKiong Anthropologyand Colonialism in Asia Reflections onthe Japanese, Dutch, Chinese, andIndianExperiences EditedbyJan van BremenandAkitoshi Shimizu FolkArt Potters ofJapan BeyondanAnthropologyofAesthetics BrianMoeran HONG KONG The Anthropology of a Chinese Metropolis Edited by Grant Evans and Maria Tam UNIVERSITYOF HAWAI'I PRESS HONOLULU PublishedinNorth Americaby UniversityofHawai'iPress 2840Kolowalu Street Honolulu, Hawai'i 96822 Firstpublishedin 1997 byCurzonPress 15The Quadrant,Richmond Surrey,TW9 lBP © 1997G. Evansand M. Tam PrintedinGreatBritain All rightsreserved. Nopartofthisbookmaybereprinted or reproducedorutilisedin any form orbyanyelectronic, mechanical, orothermeans, nowknown orhereafter invented, includingphotocopyingandrecording, orinany informationstorage orretrieval system,withoutpermission in writingfrom thepublishers. LibraryofCongress Cataloguingin PublicationData A cataloguerecord for this bookhas beenrequested ISBN0-8248-2005-3 CONTENTS ListofIllustrations Vll Introduction: The Anthropology ofContemporary Hong Kong GrantEvans & Maria Tam IDENTITY 2 Hong Kong Ethnicity: OfFolk Models and Change 25 GregoryEliyu Guldin 3 Back To The Future: Herbal Tea Shops in Hong Kong 51 ChengSea Ling CULTURALSTUDIES 4 OfMimicryand Mermaids: Hong Kong and the Documentary Film Legacy 77 Philip Robertson 5 Resurgent Chinese Power inPostmodern Disguise: The New BankofChina Buildings in Hong Kong and Macau 102 ChengMiu Bing. Christina 6 Treading the Margins: Performing Hong Kong 124 Rozanna Lilley GENDER AND KINSHIP 7 Selina Ching Chan Negotiating Tradition: Customary Succession in the New Territories ofHong Kong 151 8 JyuhtFohng Neuih: Female Inheritance and Affection 174 Eliza Chan v ANTHROPOLOGY OF HONG KONG 9 Motherhood in Hong Kong: The Working Motherand Child-care in the Parent-Centred Hong Kong Family 198 DianaMartin RELIGIONAND BELIEFS 10 Traditional Values and Modem Meanings in the Paper Offering Industry ofHong Kong 223 Janet Lee Scott 11 Sacred Powerin the Metropolis: Shrines and Temples in Hong Kong 242 Graeme Lang 12 Ghosts and the NewGovernor: The Anthropology ofa Hong Kong Rumour 267 GrantEvans LANGUAGE 13 Bad Boys and Bad Language: ChOu Hau and the Sociolinguistics ofSwearwords in Hong Kong Cantonese 299 Kingsley Bolton & ChristopherHutton Glossary 333 Contributors 335 VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figures 5.1 BankofChinaBuilding. 5.2 Chinese-stylegardens atthe baseofthe Bank. 5.3 The HongkongBankBuilding. 5.4 Twobronzelions outsidethe Hongkong BankinCentral. 5.5 Governor's residence in the foreground with the China Bank 'blades' inthe background. 5.6 CitibankTower. 5.7 BankofChinaBuildinginMacau. 5.8 HongKong'sPost-modernskyline. 5.9 The AmaralEquestrianMonument. 5.10 TheBankofChinabuildingwithouttheAmaral statue. (Followingpage 104) vii 1 INTRODUCTION THE ANTHROPOLOGY OF CONTEMPORARY HONG KONG Grant Evans & Maria Tam When anthropologist BarbaraWardarrived in Hong Kong in 1950 she remarkedthatin'theharbouritself,allthelocalcraftwereundersail;in theNewTerritorieseveryparticleofflatorterracedlandwasunderrice .. .'.Indeed,ruralrhythmsstillpulsatedfaintlythroughthecity: 'Street lifewasalsomarkedbyseasonalchangesofcolour,formostmenwore Chinese suits- black in summerand soft bluish grey with wide white turnedbackcuffsinautumnandwinter' (1985:ix). WardcametoHong Kongfirmly convincedthatacentraltenetofanthropologyisthe cross cultural studyofmeaning, theattempt to see 'throughothereyes'. She herself did this by studying a group marginal to mainstream of Cantonese society, the 'Tanka' or boat people. Like many anthro pologists ofher day she travelled out ofthe city to carryouthermain fieldwork. In the academic division oflabour which had developed in bothEurope andAmericaanthropologistswere allocatedtribal peoples and peasants as well as exotic (to some people 'irrational') belief systems, while sociologists studied industrial societies, cities and 'rationality'. Butworldpoliticsalsodictatedwhere,whenandhowanthropological fieldworkwasdone. Priorto 1950fewanthropologicalstudieshadbeen writtenaboutChina; theworkbyFei Hsiao TungandFrancesHsuwas exceptional.AfterthecommunistrevolutioninChinaanthropologywas vilifiedasan'imperialist'disciplineanddisappearedfromthemainland untilitsrecentrevival(Guldin1994).Thus,ifanthropologistswishedto study 'China' they were confined to Hong Kong and Taiwan, so when anthropologists came to Hong Kong in the 1950s and 1960s they invariablyheadedofftothestillrural villagesoftheNewTerritoriesto study what was left of 'traditional China'. The influential work on

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Kingsley Bolton & Christopher Hutton. Glossary 333. Contributors 335. VI .. produced for an exhibition on 1960s popular culture. He writes:'If, as.
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