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c ( ITIMEI DIH® BOOKS Other Publications: PLANET EARTH COLLECTOR'S LIBRARY OF THE CIVIL WAR LIBRARY OF HEALTH CLASSICS OF THE OLD WEST THE EPIC OF FLIGHT THE SEAFARERS THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COLLECTIBLES THE GREAT CITIES WORLD WAR II HOME REPAIR AND IMPROVEMENT THE WORLD'S WILD PLACES THE TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF BOATING HUMAN BEHAVIOR THE ART OF SEWING THE OLD WEST THE EMERGENCE OF MAN THE AMERICAN WILDERNESS THE TIME-LIFE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF GARDENING LIFE LIBRARY OF PHOTOGRAPHY THIS FABULOUS CENTURY FOODS OF THE WORLD TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF AMERICA TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF ART GREAT AGES OF MAN LIFE SCIENCE LIBRARY THE LIFE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES TIME READING PROGRAM LIFE NATURE LIBRARY LIFE WORLD LIBRARY FAMILY LIBRARY: HOW THINGS WORK IN YOUR HOME THE TIME-LIFE BOOK OF THE FAMILY CAR THE TIME-LIFE FAMILY LEGAL GUIDE THE TIME-LIFE BOOK OF FAMILY FINANCE This volume is one of a series that explains and demonstrates how to prepare various types of food, and that oHers in each book on international anthology of great recipes. --------------------THE GOOD COOK------------------- TECHNIQUES & RECIPES Outdoor Cook in ...... BY THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS --------------- TIME-LIFE BOOKS/ALEXANDRIA VIRGINIA--------- Cover, Impaled on the rod of o rotisserie, o chicken turns above o drip pan positioned among live cools. While it roosts, the bird is basted with spoonfuls of liquid from the pon-o flavorful blend composed of the chicken's juices and fat, white wine, soy sauce ond lemons. Time-Life Books Inc. CHIEF SERIES CONSULTANT in scholarly publications about food and cookery. is o wholly owned subsidiary of Richard Olney, on Ameri FRANCE: Michel Lemonnier, the cofounder and vice TIME INCORPORATED can, has lived and worked president of Les Amities Gostronomiques lnterno Founder, Henry R. Luce 1898-1967 for some three decodes in tionoles, is a frequent lecturer on wine and vine Editor-in-ChieF, Henry Anatole Grunwald Fronce, where he is highly yards. GERMANY, Jochen Kuchenbecker trained os o President, J. Richard Munro regarded as on authority chef, but worked for 10 yeors as o food photogra Chairman of the Boord, Rolph P. Davidson on food and wine. Author pher in several European countries before opening Executive Vice President, Clifford J. Grum of The French Menu Cook his own restaurant in Homburg. Anne Brakemeier is Editorial Director, Rolph Groves book and of the award the co-author of a number of cookbooks. THE NETH Group Vice President, Books, Joan D. Manley winning Simple French ERLANDS: Hugh Jans has published cookbooks and Vice Chairman, Arthur Temple Food, he has also contrib his recipes appear in several Dutch magazines. uted to numerous gastro nomic magazines in France and the United TfME-lfFE BOOKS INC. States, including the influential journals Cuisine et Editor, George Constable Vins de France and La Revue du Vin de france. He has directed cooking courses in France and the Executive Editor, George Daniels Director of Design, Louis Klein United States and is a member of several distin Boord of Editors, Dole M. Brown, Thomas H. Flaherty Jr., guished gastronomic and oenologicol societies, in Thomas A. Lewis, Martin Mann, Robert G. Mason, cluding L' Acodemie lnternotionole du Yin, La Con· John Paul Porter, Gerry Schremp, Gerold Simons, frerie des Chevaliers du Tostevin and La Rosalind Stu ben berg, Kit von Tu lleken Commonderie du Bontemps de Medoc et des Director of Administration, David L. Harrison Groves. Although he is chief consultant for the se Director of Research, Carolyn L. Sackett ries, this volume was prepared under the guidance Director of Photography, Richard Ken in of American consultants. President, Carl G. Jaeger CHIEF AMERICAN CONSULTANT Executive Vice Presidents, John Steven Maxwell, Carol Cutler is the author of a number of cook David J. Walsh books, including the award-winning The Six-Minute Vice Presidents, George Artondi, Stephen L. Boir, Souffle and Other Culinary Delights. During the 12 Peter G. Barnes, Nicholas Benton, John L. Co novo, Beatrice T. Dobie, James L. Mercer, Paul R. Stewart years she lived in France, she studied at the Cor don Bleu ond the Ecole des Trois Gourmondes, and with private chefs. She is a member of the Cercle des Gourmettes, a long-established French THE GOOD COOK food society limited to just 50 members, and is olso Editor, Gerry Schremp a charter member of Les Domes d'Escollier, Wash Designer, Ellen Robling ington Chapter. Chief Researcher, Barbaro Levitt SPECIAL CONSULTA NT Editorial Stoff for Outdoor Cooking Jeremiah Tower is a distinguished American restau Associate Editors, Adrian Allen (pictures). Anne Horan (text) rateur who lived in Europe for many years. He is Text Editor, Sarah Brosh Correspondents: Elisabeth Kraemer (Bonn); Margot associated with the Balboa Cole and the Stars res Researchers, Robert Cormack (techniques), Hopgood, Dorothy Bacon (London); Susan Janos, Miriam Patricio McKinney (anthology). Denise Li, Ann Ready taurant in Son Francisco, and the Santo Fe Bar & Hsio, Lucy T. Voulgoris (New York); Mario Vincenzo Aloisi, Assistant Designer, Peg Schreiber Grill in Berkeley, California. He is a member of Josephine du Brusle (Paris); Ann Notonson (Rome). Copy Coordinators, Tonno Gibert, Nancy Lendved, La Commonderie du Bontemps de_ Medoc et des Valuable assistance was also provided by Enid Former Dione Ullius Groves and of La Jurode de Soint-Emilion. He has (Boston); Anne Jackson, Debby Rood, Lesley Kinahan, Art Assistant, Mary L. Orr been responsible for all of the step-by-step photo Stephanie Lee (London). Picture Coordinator, Alvin Ferrell graphic sequences in this volume. Editorial Assistants, Andrea Reynolds, Patricio Whiteford © 1983 Time-life Books Inc. Ail rights reserved. No port of lhis book may be reproduced in any form or by any elec Special Contributor, Leslie Marshall PHOTOGRAPHER tronic or mechanical means, including information storage and re Aldo Tutino has worked in Milan, New York City trieval devices m systems, without prior written permission from the and Washington, D.C. He has received a number publisher, except that brief passages may be quoted for reviews. first printing. Printed in U.S.A. Editorial Operations of awards for his photographs from the New York Published simultaneously in Canada. Design, Arnold C. Holeywell (assistant director); Advertising Club. School and library distribution by Silver Burdett Company, Anne B. Landry (art coordinator); James J. Cox Morristown, New Jersey 07960. (quality control) INTERNATIONAL CONSULTANTS Research, Phyllis K. Wise (assistant director), GREAT BRITAIN: Jane Grigson has written a number of TIME-LIFE is a trademark of Time Incorporated U.S.A. Louise D. Forstoll Copy Room, Susan Galloway Goldberg (director), books about food and has been a cookery corre For information about any Time-Life book, please write: spondent for the London Observer since 1968. Alan Reader Information, Time-life Books Celio Beattie, Ricki To rlow 541 North Fairbanks Court, Chicago, Illinois 60611 Production, Feliciano Mod rid (director), Gordon E. Buck, Davidson is the author of several cookbooks and Peter lnchouteguiz the founder of Prospect Books, which specializes library of Congress CIP data, page 176. ----------------------CONTENTS---------------------- INTRODUCTION 5 The renaissance of an ancient art I A guide to outdoor cooking equipment I Handling fuel and fire/ A bed of coals for grilling I A log fire for cooking on the 17h1earth I Marinades: Preliminary enhancements I A gallery of accompaniments I A classic barbecue sauce VEGETABLES A cornucopia from the garden ITa ctics for whole 2 vegetables I Potatoes impaled on skewers I Potatoes roasted in coals /Tidy slices that grill speedily I Composing kebabs IT omatoes and onions in a hinged basket I Wrapping to seal in juices I Corn encased in its own husks MEATS 25 Matching the cut to the method I A two-stage strategy for steak I Wrapping a lamb chop in its apron I Butterflied lamb with 3 a minty fragrance I A trio of techniques for kebabs I Grinding meat for the freshest hamburgers I Barbecued spareribs with a crunchy glaze I A medley of meats perfumed with smoke POULTRY 49 Dealing with diversity I Flattening whole squabs for grilling I Flavorings inserted under the skin I Smaller pieces for quick cooking I An herb-scented chicken roasted on the 6L1 hearth I A fruit complement for duck I Quail arrayed on a spit I Smoking a turkey for moist tenderness FISH AND SHELLFISH PreseNing natural delicacy I A whole striped bass grilled intact I Bluefish filleted for grilling I Strategies 5 for cooking fish at the fireplace I Chunky kebabs of fish and vegetables I Shucked oysters in bacon wrappers I Orchestrating a selection of grilled shellfish SPECIAL PRESENTATIONS 79 Warming cheeses at the fire I Softening aged Parmesan I A Swiss specialty I Enfolding creamy montrachet in leaves I Larding and basting to keep rabbit succulent I Spit-roasting on a grand scale I The clambake: A traditional seaside feast ANTHOLOGY OF RECIPES 91 Vegetables and fruits 92 I Meats 98 I Poultry 131 I Fish and shellfish 141 I Sauces and marinades 159 I Standard preparations 16 l RECIPE INDEX 168 GENERAL INDEX I GLOSSARY 171 RECIPE CREDITS 173 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176 4 - - - - ------INTRODUCTION--- - - - - - - - The Renaissance of an 'Ancient 'Art Revered as a gift from the gods in eons past, fire has magical gantuan in scale. One 1840 Rhode Island clambake held to hon powers. After its leaping flames die down, its embers form an or presidential candidate William Henry Harrison drew a crowd incandescent bed above which foods of almost every description oflO,OOO. At a Kansas barbecue in June of1850, the assembled can be grilled or roasted-and in the process become permeated multitude roasted and devoured six cattle, 20 hogs and more by the delicate but distinctive fragrance ofs moke. Depending on than 50 sheep, pigs and lambs-upward of four tons of meat. weather, the fire can burn outdoors or in a fireplace; depending Until the 1940s, however, only campers and picnickers reg on taste, the fare can be as plain as hamburgers or as fancy as a ularly paid much attention to outdoor cooking. Then, exuber butterflied leg of lamb. antly changing their life style, Americans traded their city Achieving predictably delicious results when cooking any apartments for suburban houses and turned their new back food over glowing embers is the subject of this book. The follow yards into outdoor living rooms. Cooking and eating alfresco ing pages address the basics: the equipment and how it works, became the vogue. No longer an occasional summer treat, cook the fire and how to build it, the marinades that aid in the prepa ing over coals developed into an everyday affair whose popular ration of foods, and the sauces and relishes that enhance their ity has grown over the decades since. presentation. Four chapters then deal with the techniques for Basically, modern techniques of outdoor cooking mirror an handling the primary ingredients: vegetables, meats, poultry, cient practices. Food is still grilled, but on a metal rack instead and fish and shellfish. A final chapter describes ways to manage of a barbacoa, and the fire is contained in a metal bowl or box such diverse foods as cheese and rabbit, and how to succeed in instead of a pit. Spitting is now done with a metal rod rather such ambitious undertakings as roasting a whole pig or staging than a stick; an electric or battery-powered motor keeps the a clambake. The second half of the volume consists of an anthol rod turning smoothly. Even the smoking of food, which at one ogy of the best published recipes for outdoor cooking. time required building a shed, is accomplished today in a por International in scope, the recipes reflect the universality of table cooker. the art. In every part of the world, the outdoors was man's first Such refinements in equipment tame the fire, so the cook kitchen and an open fire his first stove; his first cooking method can concentrate attention on the preparation, embellishment was to lay the food in the smoldering embers or impale it on and presentation of the food itself. The result, as the demonstra sticks held over them. An early description of outdoor cooking tions in this book show, can be spectacular finished dishes with appears in the Iliad of the Greek poet Homer, who recounts that an elegant appearance and matchless flavor. Trojan warriors slew "a sheep of silvery whiteness" and "cut the Because any food cooked over coals is innately rich, experi meat carefully up into smaller pieces, spitted them, and drew ence has proved that the most appropriate beverages to accom them off again when they were well roasted." pany it are light and simple ones. The most practical wine is For soldiers and civilians alike, such feasts became rarer rose, which complements virtually everything from beef to as cities grew and Old World cooks took their fires indoors pork, from poultry to seafood. Tavel from Provence is a good to clay ovens, fireplaces and-eventually-metal stoves. Out choice; so are California roses made from Cabernet, Pi not N oir door cooking was left to hunters and fishermen, shepherds or Zinfandel grapes. Among white wines, Muscadet from the and adventurers. Loire Valley marries well with fish or shellfish, as do clear In the New World, early explorers and settlers rediscovered tasting Schwarze Katz and Piesporter from Germany, the the rewards of cooking over coals. The Spaniards found the Car Chardonnays and Chablis from California and the Soaves from ibbean Indians cooking their game and fish on green-wood grills Italy. Among red wines, young Beaujolais has a strong, fresh called barbacoas, which were suspended above pits heated with bouquet that will harmonize with beef and poultry. Equally wood fires. The colonists of Virginia learned from the Indians to suitable are the French Cote du Rh6nes and the California barbecue pigs in a similar manner, and the Pilgrims adopted the Cabernet Sauvignons. New England Indians' technique of baking clams and fish in But beverages for outdoor meals need not be restricted to pits lined with seaweed-covered stones. wine. Cold beer, with its mildly bitter taste, is always welcome. Over the years, however, Americans also abandoned the And for those who prefer nonalcoholic beverages, iced tea is open fire for the convenience of indoor kitchens. Barbecues and refreshing and flavorful, particularly if.it is laced with slices of clambakes survived chiefly as community festivities, often gar- lemon or lime and sprigs of fresh mint. 5 INTRODUCTION A Guide to Outdoor Cooking Equipment The battery of basic equipment used for on a central post that can be raised or Their small size makes them handy to cooking outdoors ranges from tiny col lowered with a crank to adjust the tem use on a tabletop. lapsible boxes to huge masonry struc perature at which foods cook; in other A kettle grill (center, left) also contains tures. Some equipment is designed for models, the rack rests on notched brack a grate for the fire and has firebox vents grilling only; some can incorporate rotis ets attached to the rim of the firebox, and to regulate the heat. Its rack, however, is series for spit-roasting, and some is in the rack is adjusted by moving it from not adjustable. In the model shown, the tended primarily for smoking food. Some one set of notches to another. Long legs vent closure doubles as a sweeper to push employs gas or electricity instead of- or with wheels elevate the cooker to a con ashes into an ash catcher below the fire in addition to-wood or charcoal. venient height. Some braziers also have box. But the principal feature of the ket Despite the obvious differences in their a windscreen, or hood, that attaches to tle grill is its vented cover. Grilling food sizes, shapes and designs, all outdoor the firebox rim. Shaped like a half cylin under a cover shortens its cooking time cooking equipment is based on two com der, the hood can be fitted with an elec by as much as 25 per cent and intensifies ponents: a firebox that holds the coals tric or battery-powered rotisserie. its smoky flavor. or other heat source and a rack or spit In a hibachi, by contrast, the fire is laid A rotisserie grill (center, right) has a that holds food. As the five types of porta on a grate rather than on the bottom of grate, vents in the firebox and a vented ble charcoal cookers below demonstrate, the firebox. (The model shown second cover. The rack height can be adjusted by these elements can be put together in from left has a double grate.) The addi means of levers at the front of the grill. various ways. tion of a grate permits air flow under the The rotisserie is supported by brackets The brazier (far left), for example, is no coals, which consequently burn hotter that permit raising and lowering the spit more than a firebox and rack, and the fire and more evenly. Vents near the bottom rod. The model shown includes a cutting is laid directly on the bottom of the fire of the firebox can be opened or closed to board that can be fixed to the edge of the box. In this model, the rack is supported regulate the air supply and thus the rate firebox at either side. ofburning. Hibachis usually have brack ets for adjusting the height of the racks. Rack Rack-adjustment brackets Hibachi 6 A charcoal-water smoker cooks food, tion, the steel should be 20-gauge or Regular maintenance of a simple sort but is not designed for preserving it. The heavier; hot coals may burn a hole in will extend the life of any cooker. One smoker (far right) holds a pan for fuel light-gauge steel. The finish may be ei way of preserving the finish is to line the and-above it- another pan for water ther porcelain enamel or heat-resistant firebox with heavy-duty aluminum foil and one or two racks for food. Its tight paint. Of the two, porcelain enamel will before building a fire, remembering to fitting cover traps smoke released by the stand up better to rust and heat. cut a hole in the foil where it overlies a green hardwood that is used to augment Wire racks should be coated with nick vent. When the food is cooked and the fire the charcoal fire; meanwhile the water el chrome, which resists flaking or pit is dead, the cooker is left to cool; then the pan provides steam to keep the food on ting and thus keeps the wires easy to rack or rotisserie and grate can be re the racks above it moist (pages 46-47). clean. Be sure that the rack is sturdy moved and the ashes wrapped in the foil The model shown has a gauge to allow enough not to bend readily, lest it sag and ·discarded. If the firebox is not lined monitoring of the heat inside, and doors under the weight of food. Legs of portable with foil, the cold ashes can be shoveled through which the charcoal and water cookers should be widely based for stabil out or the grill inverted to dump them. supplies can be replenished. In addition ity and firmly fastened to the firebox. After each use, clean the rack with a to serving as a smoker, the device may be Before purchasing any grill or smoker, stiff wire brush to remove the cooked-on used as a grill if the cover and water pan try out all of the vents, cranks, levers, grease and food. Wash the spit rod and are removed and the charcoal pan placed hinges, wheels and other moving parts to holding forks of a rotisserie with soapy directly under a rack. make sure that they operate properly. hot water and dry them well with a towel. Choosing an outdoor cooker requires Look for handles that are easy to grasp Before storing a grill or smoker for the careful shopping. Except for the hibachi, and will remain comfortably cool to the winter, wash it thoroughly and dry each which is often made of cast-iron, the fire touch. Wood and phenolic plastic handles part. Then place it, if possible, in a dry, boxes and covers of outdoor grills and absorb less heat than metal ones. protected area such as a garage or base smokers are usually formed out of sheet ment. If it must be stored outdoors, use a steel. For durability and good heat reten- tarpaulin or plastic cover to ward off rust. Heat gauge e{ Charcoal-water smoker 7