001-045_40635.indd 1 1/29/14 12:13 PM 001-045_40635.indd 1 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT ##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 11 001-045_40635.indd 2 1/29/14 12:13 PM 001-045_40635.indd 2 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT ##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 22 organic FARMING HOW TO RAISE, CERTIFY, AND MARKET ORGANIC CROPS AND LIVESTOCK Peter V. Fossel 001-045_C70372.indd 3 2/14/14 2:29 PM 001-045_40635.indd 3 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT (160)02-AC70372 ##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 33 Dedication To Susan Benjamin, without whose encouragement this revised edition might never have happened. She convinced me how important it was. First published in 2007 by Voyageur Press, Digital edition: 978-1-62788-196-8 an imprint of Quayside Publishing Group Inc., Softcover edition: 978-0-76034-571-9 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data © 2007, 2014 Voyageur Press Text © Peter V. Fossel Fossel, Peter V. Organic farming : how to raise, certify, and market organic crops and Photographs by Peter V. Fossel except where noted. livestock / by Peter V. Fossel. pages cm All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for Other title: How to raise, certify, and market organic crops and the purposes of review, no part of this publication may be reproduced livestock without prior written permission from Includes index. the Publisher. ISBN 978-0-7603-4571-9 (sc) 1. Organic farming. I. Title. II. Title: How to raise, certify, and The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our market organic crops and livestock. knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee S605.5.F662 2014 on the part of the author or Publisher, who also disclaims any liability 631.5’84--dc23 incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details. 2013047880 We recognize, further, that some words, model names, and Editor: Elizabeth Noll designations mentioned herein are the property of the trademark Design Manager: Cindy Samargia Laun holder. We use them for identification purposes only. This is not an Design and layout: Rebecca Pagel official publication. Voyageur Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk quantity Shutterstock: for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details write to Special Frontis (isak55), title page L to R (Marie C Fields, Edward Fielding, Sales Manager at Quayside Publishing Group Inc., 400 First Avenue yuris, cdrin, Catalin Petolea, bjonesphotography), 6 (cdrin), 39 (Laitr North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. 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CHAPTER 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 the new farm CHAPTER 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 the soul of soil CHAPTER 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 cover crops and CHAPTER 4 green manures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 crop rotation CHAPTER 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 the compost question CHAPTER 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 greenhouses CHAPTER 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 bugs and pests CHAPTER 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 weed control CHAPTER 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 tractors and tillers CHAPTER 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 transition to organic CHAPTER 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 to market, to market CHAPTER 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 growing herbs and CHAPTER 13 vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 flower farming CHAPTER 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 organic livestock CHAPTER 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 about the author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 001-045_40635.indd 5 1/29/14 12:13 PM 001-045_40635.indd 5 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT ##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 55 CHAPTER 1 why organic? I love to inhale the fragrance of the fertile earth— our mother. It speaks to me of days gone by, but also of days to come, because I firmly believe that without it we shall have no future. On a vernal morning I scoop both hands into my fertile farm soil and lift it to my face with reverence, to inhale its fragrance. This heady, almost magical earth reeks of love and the forest floor, teeming with life and mystery. It is rich with beneficial microbes and fungi, bacteria, earthworms, plants, bugs, and humus. Merlin himself lies in this earth I hold in my hands. It is why I farm. I will never be so mechanized that I can’t smell the earth and know what it needs—ever. You may think me crazy, but it speaks to me, and I answer. Not just for me, mind you, but for those who buy my food. Fertile earth is everything.We moved away from it in the 1940s and afterward, when chemical fertiliz- ers made our soil little more than a planting medium whose “fertility” was entrusted to petrochemicals, weed control to the likes of Agent Orange, and pest control to DDT. But we are coming back now, back to earth as it were, full circle or even better. And we are coming back with something of a vengeance. Organic food and beverage sales in the United States have grown from $1 billion in 1990 to $26.7 billion in 2010, representing a hefty 7.7 percent growth over 2009—with fruits and vegetables up nearly 12 percent in that year, according to the 6 001-045_C70364.indd 6 2/10/14 4:53 PM 001-045_40635.indd 6 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT C70364_##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 66 Organic Trade Association. In fact organic fruits and vegetables now account for roughly 12 percent of all fruit and vegetable sales in the United States, the association reports. This makes organics the fastest-growing sector of American agriculture and perhaps the most profit- able. Certified organic farmland doubled between 1995 and 2000, and then doubled again between 2000 and 2005. In total there were 4 million acres of cropland and pasture dedicated to organic pro- duction in 2005, according to the USDA Economic Research Service. Today that number is estimated to have more than doubled again—to roughly 8 to 10 million acres. About the only thing growing faster are the peas and tomatoes on my farm. So what’s going on here? A Matter of Taste Health is surely part of it—a big part, mind you—but A day at the farmers’ market; one of the most enjoyable you must start with taste. times you can imagine. Organic Means What? The word “natural” is meaningless in the food world, but the word “organic” has a strict and powerful meaning in law. If a farmer describes his produce as “certified organic” it means he or she has gone through an arduous and to some extent costly process to meet USDA guidelines, requiring that produce to be raised using virtually no chemical pesticides, fertilizers, or synthetic ingredients. Both seeds and transplants are chemical free, and all fertilizer is organic as well. Animal products must be given no antibiotics or growth hormones, fed only with organic feed, and given no medications aside from those used as vaccinations or to treat an illness. Products labeled as one-hundred-percent organic must be guaranteed to be free of any GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Farm inputs such as fertilizer or potting soils must contain the seal of approval from the Organic Materials Research Institute (OMRI). If it doesn’t have that label, it isn’t organic. Farms selling less than $5,000 worth of produce a year may call themselves “organic” without paying for certification, so long as they follow all rules and proce- dures required by formal certification. But you don’t have to write a check. I like that. WHY ORGANIC? 7 001-045_40635.indd 7 1/29/14 12:14 PM 001-045_40635.indd 7 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT ##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 77 Selling out of the back of a pickup truck can be both simple and effective. This one has a roof for shade and provision for a hanging scale. I sell my organic produce at the Orleans Farmers’ But organic celery? Hello.The flavor is so rich it Market on Cape Cod. It’s a destination—both the frightens off some people who take it as almost an- market and the town—so Europeans often stop by, other vegetable entirely. It’s so flavorful you remem- or Canadians, or those from other nations, and their ber it, and tell friends about it; so rich you never comments are often the same: “Why does your food forget what celery is supposed to taste like, if only have no flavor?” By that, they mean American food. we would stop pummeling it into submission with So I offer them a bite—of leeks, broccoli, celery, chemicals. The irony is that I’ve never had the need tomatoes, or what have you. And every time—every to use pesticides, fungicides, or fertilizers on celery. single time without exception—the response is the I plant from seed, put the transplants in fertile, or- same. “Wow!” (Or a variation on that.) ganic earth with drip irrigation after last frost, then Celery is the champion, even over tomatoes. wait for it to ripen in midsummer. Oh, blight will get Americans buy celery having virtually no leaves on some now and then, and now and then a slug, but I the stalks or flavor inside because that’s what our su- grow enough for everyone. permarkets offer. Celery has become little more than Garlic is another crop where the taste difference a vehicle for dinner dips in our country. It also sits between organic and conventional is like that of a atop the list of our “Dirty Dozen” for the most pesti- nice Chateau Neuf versus Ripple. Basil is the same, cides (more than sixty) in any American vegetable. so my wife, Janet, was able to charge nine dollars an You might suspect the two are related, and you’d be ounce for her organic pesto and sold out every week right. (See sidebar, next page.) at the market in Tennessee. 8 CHAPTER 1 001-045_C70364.indd 8 2/10/14 4:53 PM 001-045_40635.indd 8 1/29/14 12:16 PM JJoobb NNoo:: 0011--4400663355 TTiittllee:: MMBBII--OOrrggaanniicc FFaarrmmiinngg TEXT C70364_##117755 DDTTPP:: 221166 PPaaggee:: 88