Open Access Open Access: Contextualizing the Archivolted Portals of Northern Spain and Western France within the Theology and Politics of Entry By Mickey Abel Open Access: Contextualizing the Archivolted Portals of Northern Spain and Western France within the Theology and Politics of Entry, by Mickey Abel This book first published 2012 Cambridge Scholars Publishing 12 Back Chapman Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE6 2XX, UK British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Copyright © 2012 by Mickey Abel All rights for this book reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. ISBN (10): 1-4438-3564-1, ISBN (13): 978-1-4438-3564-0 TABLE OF CONTENTS Preface.......................................................................................................vii Acknowledgments......................................................................................xi Introduction.................................................................................................1 Opening the Door: Freeing the Ornamental Form Chapter One...............................................................................................35 Speaking in Three Dimensions Chapter Two..............................................................................................63 Time, Rhythm, and Motion Chapter Three............................................................................................91 Defining Space Within, Around, and Between Chapter Four............................................................................................121 Inclusive Circles of Peace: The Politics of Entry Chapter Five............................................................................................159 Access Controlled: The Closure of Reform Endnotes..................................................................................................175 Bibliography............................................................................................229 Index........................................................................................................265 PREFACE Anyone who has visited the rural towns and villages of western France and northern Spain has experienced something of the communal energy of these places. Whether it is the morning queue at the bakery for the daily bread, the weekly bustle of the itinerant markets, or the more occasional gatherings associated with the transitional moments of life—a just-missed wedding evidenced by the remnants of rice and rose petals scattered on the plaza, a christening or first communion celebrated by joyful bands of children and parents banqueting in the garden beside the church, or the more somber farewells following a funeral—one comes to recognize the ubiquitous presence of the small, Romanesque churches that stand at the center of these villages and act as a backdrops to all of these events. Even today, as these villages begin (sadly) to clad themselves in the banal uniformity of corporate modernity, one senses that it is this singular building that still provides not only the focal point of the village, but the magnetic force that draws the inhabitants in and binds them to the center. This was certainly my experience, particularly in the early stages of the research for this book. Frustrated by the lack of a comprehensive catalogue of these churches, I set out cross-country, naively thinking I would—or even could—compile such a catalogue as the preliminary stage of a more quantitative or statistical analysis. Traveling in my little rental car for months at a time, sometimes on roads where I had no business taking anything other than a four-wheel drive vehicle, and other times traversing as little as ten or fifteen kilometers, but stopping to see six or eight very similar churches, I came to realize that, unlike Arthur Kingsley Porter with his fancy touring car and unlimited budget, the monumental task I had set for myself was not only beyond the scope of my time, and my finances, as well as my family’s understanding, but in the end, not all that necessary. This is because the real insights did not come from the impressive number of these buildings, although that fact certainly substantiates many of my conclusions. Rather, the insights came in the more intimate experience of the architectural form within its particular geographical and cultural context. The insights transformed my approach and although as a method it is not without its own inherent set of problems, the adoption of a social anthropological mode of observation allowed me to witness and record the various ways in which people viii Preface continue to use and respond to the churches that sit at the center of their villages. One particular day in this program of observational experiences stands out among many as one of those cathartic moments when the pieces of the puzzle begin to fall into place. This took place in the small town of Estella, Spain, in the state of Navarra, on the 25th of July, which is the feast day of Saint James or Santiago, as he is known in Spain. Most anywhere along the famous pilgrimage route to Compostela is an exciting place to be on this day dedicated to patron saint of pilgrims, but Estella takes particular pride in its pilgrimage heritage. In the Middle Ages this place was known as the “trailhead” for the Spanish portion of the pilgrimage; it was the place where those following the various French routes coming down through the Pyrenees to Roncevalles and then on to Pamplona, passing over the bridge at Puenta la Reina, would rest and celebrate before turning west toward Compostella and their final destination, the tomb of Saint James. This locational legacy translates into a significantly festive occasion, which I discovered was celebrated with the upmost of enthusiasm by throngs of pilgrims, tourists, and locals alike. In fact, the whole of the week leading up to the feast day was alive with activities as people flocked to the town filling the hotels and populating the public parks and campgrounds. There were outdoor arts festivals complete with food purveyors, theatrical re-enactments, and wandering minstrels of various sorts dressed in localized medieval costume. Like many towns of both western France and northern Spain, Estella features a perplexing number of medieval religious sites. Here, as one follows the twenty kilometers of the pilgrimage road from the town of Puenta la Reina with its own two Romanesque churches—the Templar’s El Crucifijo and Santiago, across the extant medieval bridge that gives the town its name, one comes to the spectacular façade of the more rural San Roman on the outskirts of the village of Cirauqui, with its portal comprised of ten archivolts, the centermost lobed in a form that makes reference to Islam. Approaching Estella proper, one comes to Santa Maria y Todos los Santos where one gets their first view of the hilly topography of the place—essentially two ridges separated by the meandering Rio Ega. To the north and the south, atop these two ridges, two major foundations, the monastery of San Pedro de la Rúa and the parish of San Miguel seem to confront each other. To the east and west of these sites, there are two smaller churches, Santo Sepulcro and San Nicolás, and in the old center, near the medieval palace of King Sancho Ramirez, there is the convent of Santo Domingo and the church of San Juan on the main plaza—all within Open Access ix (cid:3) easy walking distance. By any account, this place was not lacking in religious buildings. Each of these religious sites held their own celebratory masses during the festive week of Santiago, but on the actual feast day they coordinated their celebrations in what I now recognize as an activity that was particularly medieval in character and organization. Recreating the emotional excitement of many a medieval procession, the clergy of these churches systematically and incrementally processed a reliquary casket out of the monastic church of San Pedro on the south hill, down its elaborate staircase to the center of town, past the palace, across the bridge over the Ega, pausing at both San Juan and Santo Domingo before winding up the opposite northern hill to the parish of San Miguel. The gathering entourage, which grew in size and enthusiasm along the way, was greeted at San Miguel by a waiting crowd of clergy, a singing choir, acolytes ringing bells, and costumed children who danced around the arriving reliquary. All of this activity took place in front of the northern portal of the church. Finally, the entire processing crowd, including the crowd of onlookers filed through the open entry into the church where mass was said. When this mass was concluded, every bell in all of the town’s churches peeled in an amazing cacophony of sound as the various contingents of the procession reassembled behind the relic bearers, to reverse the route, retracing their previous steps down the hill to the river and back up to San Pedro. Pausing there at the top of that long staircase, one more round of blessings, song, and praise were offered before returning the relic to the safety of the altar. While all of this was engaging in its color, sound, and action, two important revelations occurred to me as I witnessed these events. First was the contagious emotional swell that developed in layers of enthusiasm as the staged event unfolded, step-by-step, in front of me. Second was most particularly the role played by the various church portals in this dramatic staging. Significantly, all the active elements were concentrated in front of not just the open door of the church, but before and within the porch-like space configured by the elaborate system of concentric arches above and around that open entry. Recalling for me the little half-dome, open-air theater in my hometown park, where as kids we would climb onto its little stage to perform for our parents, I came to see the arched form of these church portals as theatrical backdrops. Like that tiny stage of my youth, the shallow porches, created by the set of concentric arches, were treated as spaces waiting to be filled with actors—activated by performance. The imagery carved within that space could no longer be
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