One Good Dish

257 Pages·2013·27.06 MB·English

by  David Tanis

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OONNEE
GGOOOODD
DDIISSHH
david tanis
photographs by gentl & hyers
new york
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Copyright © 2013 by David Tanis
Photographs copyright © 2013 by Gentl & Hyers
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—
mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including
photocopying—without written permission of the publisher.
Published by Artisan
A division of Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014-4381
artisanbooks.com
Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son, Limited.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Tanis, David.
One good dish / David Tanis.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-57965-467-2
1. One-dish meals. I. Title.
TX840.O53T36 2013
641.82—dc23 2013006289
Design by 50/50
Printed in Singapore
First printing, October 2013
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Also by David Tanis
A Platter of Figs
Heart of the Artichoke
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contents
my kind of dish 9
a few good ingredients 11
Bread Makes the Meal 15
a loaf’s longevity
My Kind of Snack 43
nibbles for any time of day
A Dab of This and That 89
superior homemade condiments
Eating with a Spoon 111
pleasure in a bowl
Vegetables to Savor 147
steaming, braising, and wilting
Strike While the Iron Is Hot 181
scorched, seared, and griddled
A Little Something Sweet 207
pleasure in small bites
A Few Remarkable Drinks 231
an eclectic collection
afterword 251
acknowledgments 252
index 253
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my kind of dish
The word “dish” has many meanings and can signify a variety of things.
It still lingers as a compliment for women (“Some dish!”). Dish is also
down-and-dirty gossip. And, when a verbal bully shrinks from our sharp
rejoinder, we say, “You can dish it out but you can’t take it.”
But more often than not, when we hear the word, our thoughts turn
to food—and usually to comfort food. A covered dish at a church social.
A dish of ice cream. A fi ne fi sh dish. Deep-dish pie. Actually, the word
“dish” does the same for me: it makes me think of simple, satisfying,
casual food.
When I told a friend that my new cookbook was called One Good Dish,
the response was “So it’s about one-dish meals?” Well, yes and no. This
book is really an eclectic collection of favorite dishes, some designed
to serve one or two, some to feed a table. All are meant to be eaten any
time of day, with or without accompaniment. It’s a departure from my
previous books, which are about “orchestrated” three-course menus.
Examining my own eating habits, I realized that while I do enjoy those
rustic seasonal multicourse meals, that’s not the way I cook and eat day
to day. Instead, it’s often one good dish and a green salad. Company is
welcome.
But there are diff erent ways to gather at the table, and this book refl ects
that as well. You’ll fi nd recipes for snacks, hearty meals, and everything in
between. Eggs are featured in many ways; so is good bread. Vegetables
play a major role, as do soups. There are meat dishes, too, but in small
portions. Some dishes may seem more like tapas than meals, but having
several small dishes can be a lovely way to eat. Feel free to combine two
or more to make a larger spread—Scorched Sweet Peppers and Onions,
Spanish Pork Skewers, and Olive Relish toasts, for example. For a light
my kind of dish 9
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