on island time This page intentionally left blank on Island Time KAYAKING THE CARIBBEAN SCOTT B. WILLIAMS UNIVERSITY PRESS OF MISSISSIPPI / JACKSON www.upress.state.ms.us The University Press ofMississippi is a member ofthe Association ofAmerican University Presses. All photographs by Scott B.Williams unless otherwise credited Copyright © 2005 by University Press ofMississippi All rights reserved Manufactured in the United States ofAmerica 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 4 3 2 1 (cid:1) Library ofCongress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Williams,Scott B. On island time :kayaking the Caribbean / Scott B.Williams. p.cm. ISBN 1-57806-746-4 (cloth :alk.paper)—ISBN 1-57806-747-2 (pbk.:alk.paper) 1.West Indies—Description and travel.2.Key West (Fla.)—Description and travel. 3.Sea kayaking—West Indies.4.Sea kayaking—Florida— Key West.5.Williams, Scott B.—Travel.6.Caribbean Area—Description and travel.I.Title. F1613.W55 2005 917.29053—dc22 2004020803 British Library Cataloging-in-Publication Data available FOR MICHELLE, WHO EVERY DAY MAKES ME GLAD I FOUND MY WAY BACK TO MISSISSIPPI This page intentionally left blank CONTENTS FOREWORD BY ERNEST HERNDON [ ix] ACKNOWLEDGMENTS [ xi] ONE LEAVING [ 3 ] TWO SOUTHBOUND [ 26 ] THREE KEY WEST TO THE BAHAMAS [ 55 ] FOUR ISLAND PARADISE [ 82 ] FIVE THE CRUISING COMMUNITY [ 103 ] SIX CELEBRATION [ 130 ] SEVEN A JUNGLE COAST [ 154 ] EIGHT PUERTO RICO [ 182 ] NINE INTO THE WIND [ 208 ] TEN THE VIRGIN ISLANDS [ 233 ] AFTERWORD [ 253 ] This page intentionally left blank FOREWORD I met Scott Williams in 1985when my wife signed up for his kenpo karate course in McComb,Mississippi.When Scott found out I liked to canoe,he suggested we make a float together.Soon we were embarked on a three- day trip down Red Creek and the Pascagoula River in flood conditions,a real swamp adventure. On that trip I learned that Scott has the first trait necessary to be a good adventurer:a sense of humor.We kept up a stream of ridiculous stories, puns,and jokes,meanwhile enjoying the fabulous scenery ofgiant cypress trees,redbuds,cottonmouth snakes,herons,and beavers. Later we tackled a more challenging trip,a week’s paddle in the Florida Everglades.On the fourth day we forced our canoe up a narrow channel in the grass until it would go no farther. Then Scott pointed to a distant clump oftrees and said,“Want to hike over there?”Hiking in this environ- ment meant wallowing up to our knees in snake- and alligator-infested marsh.That’s when I knew he possessed the second quality necessary for a good adventurer:a love ofexploring. Scott and I kept paddling over the years.Meanwhile he discovered and fell in love with sea kayaks and eventually set off on the trip described in this book.He kept me posted on his exploits,and I ran excerpts from his journal in the McComb Enterprise-Journalnewspaper where I work. When the journey was over, Scott and I met on the banks of Bowie Creek,where he regaled me with his experiences.I saw then (and other times) that he had the third characteristic necessary for a good [ ix ]
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