Off-Trail Adventures in Baja California Books by Markes E. Johnson Discovering the Geology of Baja California: Six Hikes on the Southern Gulf Coast (2002) Atlas of Coastal Ecosystems in the Western Gulf of California (2009), coeditor with Jorge Ledesma-Vázquez Available from the University of Arizona Press Off-Trail Adventures in Baja California Exploring Landscapes and Geology on Gulf Shores and Islands Markes E. Johnson tucson For Jorge Ledesma-Vázquez and David H. Backus, who shared much of the journey. The University of Arizona Press © 2014 The Arizona Board of Regents All rights reserved www.uapress.arizona.edu Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Johnson, Markes E. Off-trail adventures in Baja California : exploring landscapes and geology on gulf shores and islands / Markes E. Johnson. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8165-2130-2 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Geology—Mexico—Baja California (Peninsula)—Guidebooks. 2. Baja California (Mexico : Peninsula)—Guidebooks. I. Title. QE203.B34J65 2014 557.2’2—dc23 2013034783 Manufactured in the United States of America on acid-free, archival-quality paper containing a minimum of 30% post-consumer waste and processed chlorine free. 19 18 17 16 15 14 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents List of Illustrations vii Acknowledgments xi Advice to the Reader xiii 1. Cataviña: Gateway to a Peninsular Wilderness 3 2. Investigations on a Guardian Angel 21 3. Great Sand Ramp at Km 41 48 4. San Francisquito’s Ancient Bay 65 5. Lost Lagoons of Bahía Concepción 91 6. Intersection of Fractures at El Mangle 114 7. Coral Reef on a Volcano at Isla Coronados 140 8. Song of the Amazon on Isla Monserrat 164 9. Riding Out Ancient Storms on Isla Cerralvo 185 10. Zen Aesthetics and the Big Picture: An Epilogue 207 Notes 211 Glossary of Geological and Ecological Terms 219 Geological and Biological References 225 Index 231 Illustrations Figures 1. Block in rampart wall, Imperial Palace, Tokyo, showing spheroidal weathering 13 2. Cross section of Farallon Plate against the western margin of North America 16 3. Travertine deposit showing contemporary wood and plant material undergoing fossilization 19 4. Closed lagoons at south end of Isla Angel de la Guarda 34 5. Thrombolites on little lagoon, Isla Angel de la Guarda 35 6. Sea stacks on southeast shores of Isla Angel de la Guarda 40 7. Polygonal cracks on stromatolitic mats around big lagoon, Isla Angel de la Guarda 43 8. Fossil oysters from south end of Isla Angel de la Guarda 46 9. Gravel road south of Bahía de los Angeles, showing sand ramp in background 49 10. Backus and Tierney in field with sandburs 57 11. Backus seated on dune near top of sand ramp 60 12. Pliocene fossils from San Francisquito 70 13. View from landing field at San Francisquito to southwest basin rim 74 14. Field sketch showing former hot spring colonized by marine bivalves 84 15. Conglomerate composed of boulders representing river deposit under flood conditions 86 16. Part of 1968 McFall map for region around Bahía Concepción 95 17. Comparison between modern and fossil shells of the same gastropod species 98 18. Amphitheater eroded in layers of chert formation 102 19. Fossil root casts, with inset photo showing growth rings 104 20. High canyon walls on Old San Sebastián Road 106 vii viii Illustrations 21. Arrowhead fashioned from chert from base of Concepción Peninsula 113 22. Stratigraphic columns in Pliocene sequence 125 23. Plant debris from Pliocene opalite at El Mangle 129 24. View south over Pliocene strata on margin of Cerro Mencenares complex 130 25. View of Isla Coronados looking east from Punta el Bajo 142 26. Fossil pen shell preserved in growth position 149 27. Students entering opening to Pleistocene lagoon below quiescent volcano on Isla Coronados 152 28. Outcrop showing fossil corals preserved in growth position, with inset showing immature coral colony 156 29. Ascent of Pleistocene volcano on Isla Coronados 160 30. Fossil echinoids 168 31. Rotated fault block of Miocene Comondú rocks 169 32. Sea cliff and wave-cut platform in andesitic agglomerate on west shore of Isla Monserrat 174 33. Scree slope on west side of Isla Monserrat covered by veneer of broken limestone 175 34. North beach on Isla Monserrat with extensive shell debris 180 35. Coarse debris derived from crushed rhodoliths in white seam at Paredones Blancos 191 36. Small arroyos and connected fan deltas on east coast of Isla Cerralvo 197 37. Pliocene conglomerate at Los Carillos with fossil gastropods and worn pecten shells 199 38. Fossil rhodoliths among boulders at Los Carillos 200 39. Historical storm tracks from recent hurricanes striking Baja Califor- nia peninsula and Gulf of California 206 40. Rock garden from Nanzen-ji complex in Kyoto, Japan 209 Maps 1. Localities in Baja California and associated islands 4 2. Geology of Isla Angel de la Guarda 28 3. Topography of region around El Quelital (Km 41) 52 4. Topography and geology of San Francisquito basin 67 5. Topography and geology at base of Concepción Peninsula 101 Illustrations ix 6. Topography of South and North Loreto basins and Mencenares volcanic complex (MVC) 116 7. Topography and geology of area around El Mangle 119 8. Topography and geology of Isla Coronados 144 9. Topography and geology of Isla Monserrat 166 10. Topography of Isla Cerralvo 188 Tables 1. Pleistocene bivalves (phylum Mollusca) from the south side of Isla Coronados 150 2. Pleistocene gastropods (phylum Mollusca) from the south side of Isla Coronados 151 Plates 1. Granite boulders and desert plants southeast of Cataviña 2. Aerial view to northeast over south end of Isla Angel de la Guarda 3. View north from sand ramp with Bahía de los Animas and Isla Angel de la Guarda in the distance 4. Aerial view east over sand ramp 5. Aerial view east over San Francisquito basin 6. View north from San Francisquito road 7. Aerial view east over south end of Concepción Peninsula 8. View southwest from Punta el Mangle 9. View north to Punta el Mangle 10. Aerial view east over radial topography of Cerro Mencenares volcanic complex 11. Humboldt squid in death throes 12. Aerial view east over Isla Coronados 13. View north to plateau on Isla Monserrat 14. Aerial view southeast over Isla Monserrat 15. Paredones Blancos on west coast of Isla Cerralvo 16. Granite platform and overlying Pliocene ramp on Isla Cerralvo