Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction

794 Pages·2017·8.633 MB·English

by  Stanisław Ryszard Massel

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ADVANCED SERIES ON OCEAN ENGINEERING
Series Editor-in-Chief
Philip L- F Liu (Cornell University)
Published
Vol. 33 Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures (Third Edition)
by Yoshimi Goda (Yokohama National University, Japan)
Vol. 34 Coastal Dynamics
by Willem T. Bakker (Delft Hydraulics, Netherlands)
Vol. 35 Dynamics of Water Waves: Selected Papers of Michael Longuet-Higgins
Volumes 1–3
edited by S. G. Sajjadi (Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, USA)
Vol. 36 Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (Second Edition)
by Stanislaw R. Massel (Institute of Oceanology of the Polish Academy of
Sciences, Sopot, Poland)
Vol. 37 Computational Wave Dynamics
by Hitoshi Gotoh (Kyoto University, Japan),
Akio Okayasu (Tokyo University of Marine Science and Technology, Japan)
and Yasunori Watanabe (Hokkaido University, Japan)
Vol. 38 An Introduction to Hydraulics of Fine Sediment Transport
by Ashish J. Mehta (University of Florida, USA)
Vol. 39 Liquefaction Around Marine Structures
(With CD-ROM)
by Mutiu Sumer (Technical University of Denmark, Denmark)
Vol. 40 Design and Construction of Berm Breakwaters
by Van der Meer, Jentsje (Van der Meer Consulting BV,
The Netherlands & UNESCO-IHE, The Netherlands) and
Sigurdur Sigurdarson (IceBreak Consulting Engineers ehf, Iceland)
Vol. 41 Dynamics of Coastal Systems (Second Edition)
by Job Dronkers (Netherlands Centre of Coastal Research, The Netherlands)
Vol. 42 Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition)
(In 2 Parts)
by Chiang C. Mei (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA),
Michael A. Stiassnie (Technion-Israel Institute of Technology, Israel) and
Dick K.-P. Yue (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA)
Vol. 43 Japan’s Beach Erosion: Reality and Future Measures (Second Edition)
by Takaaki Uda (Public Works Research Center, Japan)
Vol. 44 Satellite SAR Detection of Sub-Mesoscale Ocean Dynamic Processes
by Quanan Zheng (University of Maryland, College Park, USA)
Vol. 45 Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (Third Edition)
by Stanisław Ryszard Massel (Institute of Oceanology of the
Polish Academy of Sciences, Poland)
*For the complete list of titles in this series, please write to the Publisher.
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Published by
World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.
5 Toh Tuck Link, Singapore 596224
USA office: 27 Warren Street, Suite 401-402, Hackensack, NJ 07601
UK office: 57 Shelton Street, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9HE
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Cover photo: Courtesy of Stanisław Węsławski of the Institute of Oceanology, PAS, Poland
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering — Vol. 45
OCEAN SURFACE WAVES
Their Physics and Prediction
Third Edition
Copyright © 2018 by World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.
All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage and retrieval
system now known or to be invented, without written permission from the publisher.
For photocopying of material in this volume, please pay a copying fee through the Copyright Clearance
Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, USA. In this case permission to photocopy
is not required from the publisher.
ISBN 978-981-3228-37-5
ISBN 978-981-3230-14-9 (pbk)
Printed in Singapore
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July31,2017 16:58 ws-book9x6 10666-main pagev
To my wife Barbara
and children
Andrzej, Magdalena and Bartosz
v
b2530 International Strategic Relations and China’s National Security: World at the Crossroads
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Preface to the Third Edition
The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published by
World Scientific in 1996 and in 2013 under the same title. This 3rd edition
is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current
knowledge of physics and prediction of regular and random ocean surface
waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. All chapters of the book have
beenrewrittentoincludeanddescribeindetailmanynewdiscoveriesmade
since the completion of the previous editions.
For convenience of the potential reader, a comprehensive and updated
overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics as well as
the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except
fromtheupdatedchaptersdedicatedtotsunamiandextremewaves,anew
chapter,dealingwithothertypesofimpulsivewavesstartingfromrest,was
included.
The basic air-sea interaction processes as well as many last
improvements in the ocean wave modelling as well as presently available
wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are
thoroughly discussed in the book and their practical applications are
demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods
encompasses the modern sea-truthing as well as presently operating
marine satellites.
In this revised edition, chapters on behavior of the surface waves in the
vegetated environments, such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and
seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last
discoveries on modelling of surface wave interaction with vegetation.
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viii Preface to the Third Edition
The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to
capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to
explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of
the recent papers on the subject of ocean waves has been extended
substantially, up to about 900 titles. The list includes very recent papers
as well as papers published in the past. Many of these older papers,
sometimes partly forgotten, nevertheless provide the fundamental results
which in my opinion can be very useful for present studies.
I would like to express my thanks to the Institute of Oceanology of
the Polish Academy of Sciences for support during the preparation of this
edition. I am grateful to my grand-daughter Maria Dembska for her
accurate proof-reading and language corrections. Thanks are also due
to Danuta Pruszczak and Stanisl(cid:32)aw We¸s(cid:32)lawski who worked on the word
processing and on the figures. I am especially grateful to my wife Barbara
for her support during the writing.
Sopot, June 2017 Stanisl(cid:32)aw R. Massel
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Preface to the Second Edition
The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published by
World Scientific in 1996 under the same title. During almost two decades,
many new theoretical advances have been made, especially in the physical
understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean
wave mechanics problems.
The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been
substantial but the general scope of the book remains the same. The in-
clusion or exclusion of a particular topic is not only a matter of a personal
choice but it is also due to the fact that new alternative sources are now
available. Amajorchange,incomparisonwiththefirstedition,istheaddi-
tion of several new Chapters. In particular, the breaking wave mechanism
in deep and shallow waters is elaborated with some detail in a Chapter 5.
In the new Chapters 8 and 9, the nature and modelling of exceptional
surface waves such as freak waves and tsunami are discussed. Since such
waves have large amplitude, the assumption of weak non-linearity and a
narrow-banded spectrum does not correspond exactly to real data. Sub-
stantialimprovementinthemodellingofthehigh-amplitudewaveshasbeen
achieved through the inclusion of higher-order terms of wave steepness in
the weakly non-linear models.
We are still far from a full understanding and prediction of wave evo-
lution in specific environments, such as coral reefs and mangrove forests.
These issues are treated extensively in Chapter 10 and in a new Chap-
ter 11 with emphasis on scattering and energy dissipation. Chapter 12 on
wave-induced flow in a porous bottom is another addition in this second
edition. The motivation of the inclusion of this subject is due to the ne-
cessityofclarificationoftheinteractionofwaveprocesses, biodiversityand
productivity of sandy beaches as well as the sediment transport.
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