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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NORTHERN SPAIN RESTAURANTS • HISTORY WALKING • CHURCHES MOUNTAINS • HOTELS CATHEDRALS • BEACH RESORTS MUSEUMS • NATIONAL PARKS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NORTHERN SPAIN EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NORTHERN SPAIN CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 Produced by Hachette Livre Polska sp. z o.o., Warsaw, Poland SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Paweł Pasternak CONTRIBUTORS Agnieszka Drewno, Zuzanna Jakubowska, Renata Szmidt, Carlos Marrodán Casas CARTOGRAPHY Magdalena Polak PHOTOGRAPHERS Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz ILLUSTRATORS Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak EDITOR Maria Betlejewska TYPESETTING AND LAYOUT Elżbieta Dudzińska A tympanum of the Iglelsia de San Saturnino in Pamplona Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore. Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China First American Edition 2007 INTRODUCING 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 NORTHERN SPAIN Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, PUTTING NORTHERN New York, New York 10014 SPAIN ON THE MAP 10 Reprinted with revisions 2009 Copyright ©2007, 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London DISCOVERING A Penguin Company NORTHERN SPAIN 12 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR A PORTRAIT OF INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), NORTHERN SPAIN 14 WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. NORTHERN SPAIN PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. THROUGH THE YEAR 30 A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ISSN: 1542-1554 THE HISTORY OF ISBN: 978-0-7566-6113-7 NORTHERN SPAIN 34 Front cover main image: La Ainsa in the Pyrenees The information in every DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Fishing boats in the port of Luarca on the Asturian coast Vineyards near the Miño river in Galicia SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 240 TRAVEL INFORMATION 248 INDEX 256 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The town of Laspuña near Ainsa, surrounded by imposing massifs 267 NORTHERN SPAIN CENTRAL AND EASTERN AREA BY AREA PYRENEES 170 NORTHERN SPAIN TRAVELLERS’ AT A GLANCE NEEDS 46 WHERE TO STAY 196 GALICIA 48 Sculpted figures in the portal of WHERE TO EAT 212 San Bartolomé in Logroño SHOPPING IN PHRASE BOOK NORTHERN SPAIN 228 269 ENTERTAINMENT IN NORTHERN SPAIN 232 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 234 A figure in the Iglesia de Santa María del Palacio in Logroño ASTURIAS AND CANTABRIA 80 THE BASQUE COUNTRY 118 NAVARRA Cathedral of Santiago AND LA RIOJA 144 de Compostela (see pp62–3) 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE his guide will help you get the are described, with maps, photographs most from your stay in Northern and illustrations. Suggestions for food, TSpain. It provides both expert drink, accommodation, shopping and recommendations and detailed practical activities are given, as well as tips on information. The guide maps the everything from the Spanish telephone region and sets it in its historical and system to travelling to and getting cultural context. The important sights around the region. NORTHERN SPAIN Introduction REGION BY REGION 1The history and character i cIAS bmvbw pnopiel hso tomv aeotiisfhteinc ot atniefrh i spuin indv nhon ghu eotefadouaem fastr nsri hciedteb b nhiegaesetese tsi ,rieirob R sdeneNonenoedegw osog dri,taroipken hiotnevng.lh e nadci eT dcoahch frhelnhran oesdvs Mp on etcaofet ap rn.. -2 /1$/.(+/,/'$)#0*6/0 )0). '0 *$3-)#$ -*"-'/&'/ '. (' 3//**#3/ $'$ ..*- &0*1.$.( )'-'$)1$ '.-$ $2+)$--*) /$0/ )$" /* '($$#) '2*' */- !* $*/# /$)"' )4+(#* )-*3-)3. $ .!'!)3 "( )/# $*'*./.#"*0-$.*)/)/1-*$/ '$/*!)#(#" ##0 * *' - ' $)- ) 23-0 '!)3)-.$ ')+ / 72*/0 2*0 * 3))"0-/.(+)$ +.#.//*/'/0003 /'2(*2 #-3 ' -)-$-)/)3* $-. * -$* 3/./)!!$.*.-#/ ./)*!/0+/#) #)*! /0'/).()* * )- /-/-/$ $/)#)'- 2 /$-)/($* /-.3$)/ 12 *..$*( '.)0) $ )$$-/$/0)*$/. -/)./.$)$ "#-)'.' )/#!'*- -#*$'. '*)"/*/'!/$$)#3!/(0!)# )/)/)**/' '3$$' )*" 3-! '.! (5." /* $#$/$#*' &)- )1!/*) 1* 0/-)( *)#&*).-)/--) $ /0+.0/- )( $ /$' -*- '" )#/(."0 #$$*/!$ /-' +/-* *$*0* *.*/$.)) .#-$.!- .!))$. / .$) 1#./)" / ' /#. /$ #(.()!/' /*3./ ( +)!--$*)*$* /. 0 '((2"/+//$2- ""(#$-.$0' ./$/) -#$ 0 $/.* /)' )"$".' ..#2"'#)-/ ."* */(. '$ *#'$/ / $ $)".$$$/0 .1)$ 0 *) )5# ./.* +. ).)./ '( ./!/)/ /$** #$/-/ #/$.2-**)$2#' $ # '0**) / *$ / )1!#/2)) $.3+-)$*.(2#$*/ ")'+/$ # %-''/ ("0.($/& +*-$"# -1/0*-+' )" # !-3'*$/3 $-/2"1$ '$$# (-.0'' (+.!0 +.!./* /%$*#-/$* * $-" *5 *-* $.$-)*. ) $'".)$. /)' $. ./*)#/ 5 ./ ohctroAoeefea g lnreoNsieoa tcfodu,fanc eretrs throhivhin eretro shrmlerw onegaap li ianSpvnoetp ididngsosah i niwohtinoos vo.tw hrodew as rtet o thst hdchieter ae r ih eybaas.etrsd e a Each area of Northern Spain 2 oaA pcitanvusnl nle L # ;)96-7>;04)0>#TcAD/;:60467-+9,:;-6 >;745:/6/090,h0e<,hb5 e6s-,9,-,-:(,/6(=6 ctd/(0(u6;6:(,#,,,tse:97/:i3;(*3*-097,u,9 2:'c4z6095r;(:+ /56,96< 7;,6/er<,ic;r94 5RTC*6: +g6,r(+a,9( H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7 Major towns All the important towns and other 4places to visit are described individually. They are A Visitors’ Checklist gives contact points for tourist and listed in order, following the numbering on the map. transport information, plus Within each town or city, there is detailed information details of market days and on important buildings and other major sights. local festival dates. ! # ! " ! ' ! ( =#: c3)T(5-9#E:5.9( :) (./50i405h4x*,45t -,8;5-5: 05 0T":03,a50e,(=;;:p4:( 42/++0 4:=(8d:,8C :0-2H9:-84(/(/(w:/ +6+l+(,/+ ,(*4;e8(9/4oi l<< 30:,5:64940C9eu 40,l,E,a:*.,2,:4*(r.10902a-a (l?6/*d52+:F39 (i?8a58,6l80.:5d0,rns49K5A8/<8 8 5/3m,4al-4 ( -e508?(5(o(:+(go:,30249(d,.I.?:5r)58o55*,s(3859+f6N;5 s :36,+(8+ e;n 8P)*25( ;=d:*t(:68;o23+5,:(:5*g,l5Gh:5250a?54,e16/:/8a2:,f:(/8 :9E ,4e,92-34 32/0m=( </9p9,=8,:,2+9V,D8<i<% 85,5,(:n4+,ac,(,98,(*/8,(i,84(=p6 i,.-da*r;O45;+#8-8,0,(:t:(8+#8k2!(:9;n5<+0y,e5l58(:285>(252",29.4o<(s,/(:’Mpa+54)+0(A?4;.5 s:,68(8,8:=,/2na9,)+4e/, ,?8:1 04+,:9132=24n9o5*n("?:/ : 9(a8? 5(,05:405*:296,09:(:dOn0:09d3(45 5/@:-:8(2+0:t/98+ (, 0e,:?e40,*:? h,;,4,g(.(4,5+/3,(F,( 4,n5.*:*- +o+4a84.2>"(8*+*c, =4t/5/*4r0f5(8e(N6+ 4068/*=,d ):N.0:(:5:"0(5),nt4909(</459/4( (,e(2:h24A;a( ,:86t;4,.5250/.54(,n,08+,+ue32:v20.(49:40,4,;29V (45s>+4 8ra:,8?:l*4y/:89*,-a2,r26:,6A:(//82 +r(/s50+(98+2?5a,9t,55R(80, 643:*-:/2*5:R,(/+8%2C8*- 6:48f)3'A+# )2A:=*:9:630%56(,(0 -3,A(r4(/,9/405 !0<05-ov(0:5?(,5:/585?45(:=45,84),/,/,95e50,)m(:92(1:9 =;09854.,)-0(/4V:/n4P3(;(+9:,83930+2<8:+:9,0)36= :0;.*<+(8i4i04;:a9-),3-:58:?s*d0*0,45(4*(,?9A*/55.459i90.:56l5(a0*9,3t(4/253+6?0,a400-5,:&s.:58*=,+0 ,:842(30<20944(9,098( /C394D9c(,5,424(#"b06(3+8:054,4–:(;i+?09( INTRODUCING NORTHERN SPAIN PUTTING NORTHERN SPAIN ON THE MAP 1011 DISCOVERING NORTHERN SPAIN 1213 A PORTRAIT OF NORTHERN SPAIN 1428 NORTHERN SPAIN THROUGH THE YEAR 3033 THE HISTORY OF NORTHERN SPAIN 3443

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NORTHERN SPAIN RESTAURANTS • HISTORY WALKING • CHURCHES MOUNTAINS • HOTELS CATHEDRALS • BEACH RESORTS MUSEUMS • NATIONAL PARKS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NORTHERN SPAIN EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NORTHERN SPAIN CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 Produced by Hachette Livre Polska sp. z o.o., Warsaw, Poland SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Paweł Pasternak CONTRIBUTORS Agnieszka Drewno, Zuzanna Jakubowska, Renata Szmidt, Carlos Marrodán Casas CARTOGRAPHY Magdalena Polak PHOTOGRAPHERS Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz ILLUSTRATORS Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak EDITOR Maria Betlejewska TYPESETTING AND LAYOUT Elżbieta Dudzińska A tympanum of the Iglelsia de San Saturnino in Pamplona Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore. Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China First American Edition 2007 INTRODUCING 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 NORTHERN SPAIN Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, PUTTING NORTHERN New York, New York 10014 SPAIN ON THE MAP 10 Reprinted with revisions 2009 Copyright ©2007, 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London DISCOVERING A Penguin Company NORTHERN SPAIN 12 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR A PORTRAIT OF INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), NORTHERN SPAIN 14 WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. NORTHERN SPAIN PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. THROUGH THE YEAR 30 A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ISSN: 1542-1554 THE HISTORY OF ISBN: 978-0-7566-6113-7 NORTHERN SPAIN 34 Front cover main image: La Ainsa in the Pyrenees The information in every DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Fishing boats in the port of Luarca on the Asturian coast Vineyards near the Miño river in Galicia SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 240 TRAVEL INFORMATION 248 INDEX 256 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The town of Laspuña near Ainsa, surrounded by imposing massifs 267 NORTHERN SPAIN CENTRAL AND EASTERN AREA BY AREA PYRENEES 170 NORTHERN SPAIN TRAVELLERS’ AT A GLANCE NEEDS 46 WHERE TO STAY 196 GALICIA 48 Sculpted figures in the portal of WHERE TO EAT 212 San Bartolomé in Logroño SHOPPING IN PHRASE BOOK NORTHERN SPAIN 228 269 ENTERTAINMENT IN NORTHERN SPAIN 232 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 234 A figure in the Iglesia de Santa María del Palacio in Logroño ASTURIAS AND CANTABRIA 80 THE BASQUE COUNTRY 118 NAVARRA Cathedral of Santiago AND LA RIOJA 144 de Compostela (see pp62–3) 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE his guide will help you get the are described, with maps, photographs most from your stay in Northern and illustrations. Suggestions for food, TSpain. It provides both expert drink, accommodation, shopping and recommendations and detailed practical activities are given, as well as tips on information. The guide maps the everything from the Spanish telephone region and sets it in its historical and system to travelling to and getting cultural context. The important sights around the region. NORTHERN SPAIN Introduction REGION BY REGION 1The history and character i cIAS bmvbw pnopiel hso tomv aeotiisfhteinc ot atniefrh i spuin indv nhon ghu eotefadouaem fastr nsri hciedteb b nhiegaesetese tsi ,rieirob R sdeneNonenoedegw osog dri,taroipken hiotnevng.lh e nadci eT dcoahch frhelnhran oesdvs Mp on etcaofet ap rn.. -2 /1$/.(+/,/'$)#0*6/0 )0). '0 *$3-)#$ -*"-'/&'/ '. (' 3//**#3/ $'$ ..*- &0*1.$.( )'-'$)1$ '.-$ $2+)$--*) /$0/ )$" /* '($$#) '2*' */- !* $*/# /$)"' )4+(#* )-*3-)3. $ .!'!)3 "( )/# $*'*./.#"*0-$.*)/)/1-*$/ '$/*!)#(#" ##0 * *' - ' $)- ) 23-0 '!)3)-.$ ')+ / 72*/0 2*0 * 3))"0-/.(+)$ +.#.//*/'/0003 /'2(*2 #-3 ' -)-$-)/)3* $-. * -$* 3/./)!!$.*.-#/ ./)*!/0+/#) #)*! /0'/).()* * )- /-/-/$ $/)#)'- 2 /$-)/($* /-.3$)/ 12 *..$*( '.)0) $ )$$-/$/0)*$/. -/)./.$)$ "#-)'.' )/#!'*- -#*$'. '*)"/*/'!/$$)#3!/(0!)# )/)/)**/' '3$$' )*" 3-! '.! (5." /* $#$/$#*' &)- )1!/*) 1* 0/-)( *)#&*).-)/--) $ /0+.0/- )( $ /$' -*- '" )#/(."0 #$$*/!$ /-' +/-* *$*0* *.*/$.)) .#-$.!- .!))$. / .$) 1#./)" / ' /#. /$ #(.()!/' /*3./ ( +)!--$*)*$* /. 0 '((2"/+//$2- ""(#$-.$0' ./$/) -#$ 0 $/.* /)' )"$".' ..#2"'#)-/ ."* */(. '$ *#'$/ / $ $)".$$$/0 .1)$ 0 *) )5# ./.* +. ).)./ '( ./!/)/ /$** #$/-/ #/$.2-**)$2#' $ # '0**) / *$ / )1!#/2)) $.3+-)$*.(2#$*/ ")'+/$ # %-''/ ("0.($/& +*-$"# -1/0*-+' )" # !-3'*$/3 $-/2"1$ '$$# (-.0'' (+.!0 +.!./* /%$*#-/$* * $-" *5 *-* $.$-)*. ) $'".)$. /)' $. ./*)#/ 5 ./ ohctroAoeefea g lnreoNsieoa tcfodu,fanc eretrs throhivhin eretro shrmlerw onegaap li ianSpvnoetp ididngsosah i niwohtinoos vo.tw hrodew as rtet o thst hdchieter ae r ih eybaas.etrsd e a Each area of Northern Spain 2 oaA pcitanvusnl nle L # ;)96-7>;04)0>#TcAD/;:60467-+9,:;-6 >;745:/6/090,h0e<,hb5 e6s-,9,-,-:(,/6(=6 ctd/(0(u6;6:(,#,,,tse:97/:i3;(*3*-097,u,9 2:'c4z6095r;(:+ /56,96< 7;,6/er<,ic;r94 5RTC*6: +g6,r(+a,9( H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7 Major towns All the important towns and other 4places to visit are described individually. They are A Visitors’ Checklist gives contact points for tourist and listed in order, following the numbering on the map. transport information, plus Within each town or city, there is detailed information details of market days and on important buildings and other major sights. local festival dates. ! # ! " ! ' ! ( =#: c3)T(5-9#E:5.9( :) (./50i405h4x*,45t -,8;5-5: 05 0T":03,a50e,(=;;:p4:( 42/++0 4:=(8d:,8C :0-2H9:-84(/(/(w:/ +6+l+(,/+ ,(*4;e8(9/4oi l<< 30:,5:64940C9eu 40,l,E,a:*.,2,:4*(r.10902a-a (l?6/*d52+:F39 (i?8a58,6l80.:5d0,rns49K5A8/<8 8 5/3m,4al-4 ( -e508?(5(o(:+(go:,30249(d,.I.?:5r)58o55*,s(3859+f6N;5 s :36,+(8+ e;n 8P)*25( ;=d:*t(:68;o23+5,:(:5*g,l5Gh:5250a?54,e16/:/8a2:,f:(/8 :9E ,4e,92-34 32/0m=( </9p9,=8,:,2+9V,D8<i<% 85,5,(:n4+,ac,(,98,(*/8,(i,84(=p6 i,.-da*r;O45;+#8-8,0,(:t:(8+#8k2!(:9;n5<+0y,e5l58(:285>(252",29.4o<(s,/(:’Mpa+54)+0(A?4;.5 s:,68(8,8:=,/2na9,)+4e/, ,?8:1 04+,:9132=24n9o5*n("?:/ : 9(a8? 5(,05:405*:296,09:(:dOn0:09d3(45 5/@:-:8(2+0:t/98+ (, 0e,:?e40,*:? h,;,4,g(.(4,5+/3,(F,( 4,n5.*:*- +o+4a84.2>"(8*+*c, =4t/5/*4r0f5(8e(N6+ 4068/*=,d ):N.0:(:5:"0(5),nt4909(</459/4( (,e(2:h24A;a( ,:86t;4,.5250/.54(,n,08+,+ue32:v20.(49:40,4,;29V (45s>+4 8ra:,8?:l*4y/:89*,-a2,r26:,6A:(//82 +r(/s50+(98+2?5a,9t,55R(80, 643:*-:/2*5:R,(/+8%2C8*- 6:48f)3'A+# )2A:=*:9:630%56(,(0 -3,A(r4(/,9/405 !0<05-ov(0:5?(,5:/585?45(:=45,84),/,/,95e50,)m(:92(1:9 =;09854.,)-0(/4V:/n4P3(;(+9:,83930+2<8:+:9,0)36= :0;.*<+(8i4i04;:a9-),3-:58:?s*d0*0,45(4*(,?9A*/55.459i90.:56l5(a0*9,3t(4/253+6?0,a400-5,:&s.:58*=,+0 ,:842(30<20944(9,098( /C394D9c(,5,424(#"b06(3+8:054,4–:(;i+?09( INTRODUCING NORTHERN SPAIN PUTTING NORTHERN SPAIN ON THE MAP 1011 DISCOVERING NORTHERN SPAIN 1213 A PORTRAIT OF NORTHERN SPAIN 1428 NORTHERN SPAIN THROUGH THE YEAR 3033 THE HISTORY OF NORTHERN SPAIN 3443

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