NORTHERN INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS

22 Pages·2007·0.31 MB·English

NORTHERN INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS

9 – 28 DECEMBER 2006

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON

Despite a drought at Keoladeo National Park (Bharatpur) and Ranthambhore, and mild weather
conditions in the mountains, the latest Birdquest to Northern India and the Himalayas was arguably
the best ever for birds and mammals. Out of a total of 411 species, we recorded two Indian endemics
(Painted Spurfowl and Marshall’s Iora), 43 Indian subcontinent endemics (Indian Vulture, Cheer
Pheasant, Indian Peafowl, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Painted Sandgrouse, Himalayan
Parakeet, Plum-headed Parakeet, Sirkeer Malkoha, Indian Eagle-owl, Jungle Owlet, Indian Scops-owl,
Indian Jungle Nightjar, Indian White-rumped Spinetail, Indian Grey Hornbill, Brown-throated Barbet,
Indian Pygmy Woodpecker, Brown-fronted Pied Woodpecker, Himalayan Pied Woodpecker, White-
naped Flameback, Indian Bushlark, Ashy-crowned Finch-lark, Rufous-tailed Lark, Streak-throated
Swallow, White-browed Wagtail, Upland Pipit (heard only this time), White-bellied Minivet,
Himalayan Bulbul, Indian Black Robin, Brown Rock-chat, Streaked Laughingthrush, Black-chinned
Babbler, Nepal Wren-babbler, Rufous Sibia, Ashy and Rufous-fronted Prinias, Black-lored Yellow and
Spot-winged Tits, Bank Myna, Black-breasted Weaver, White-bellied Drongo, Black-headed Jay, and
Indian Jungle Crow), and ten near-endemics (Indian Black Ibis, Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker
(as currently defined), Himalayan and Black-rumped Flamebacks, Tickell’s Thrush, Smoky and
Brooks’s Leaf-warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Himalayan Greenfinch, and Brahminy Starling).
There were numerous other avian highlights: Black-necked Stork, Pallas’s Fish Eagle at the nest,
Lesser Fish-eagle, three Bearded Vultures, a male Pied Harrier, Laggar Falcon, fantastic views of
Koklass Pheasant feeding in front of our vehicle, a roosting and skimming Indian Skimmer, Brown
Crake, the seriously threatened Black-bellied Tern, ten species of owl in the daytime (including
Oriental Scops-owl, Dusky Eagle-owl on the nest, and Collared Owlet), 17 species of woodpecker
(including Rufous-bellied and Great Slaty), Bimaculated and Sand Larks, great looks at both Altai and
Black-throated Accentors, White-tailed Rubythroat, a tame Golden Bush Robin, at least five rare
White-throated Bushchats, Striated Babbler, a really obliging Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, White-
eared Bulbul, Whistler’s Warbler, six species of laughingthrush (including the boldly-patterned
Rufous-chinned), and Red-headed and White-capped Bunting. The mammal of the trip for many of
was Tiger of course, which we saw both at Corbett National Park and Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve.
However, for others, it was the totally unexpected sighting of a tame pack of five awesome Indian
Wolves just outside Ranthambhore. Other good mammals were a wonderful and surprisingly large
Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Hare, Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Gazelle, and Asian Elephant.

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The birding began with several hours at the Ganges River crossing near Gajraula, on the way from
Delhi to Corbett National Park. As usual, the sandbanks had completely changed shape and, this
year, were largely being used for temporary cultivation. However, it wasn’t long before we found
some extensive sandy flats and the bird that makes this habitat its home, Sand Lark. There were a few
shorebirds and wagtails along the river edge, and on the river itself we spotted three adult Steppe
Gulls, just a single Brown-headed Gull, and five Great Black-headeds. On one of the tall pylons near
the main road, we were able to scope a roosting Laggar Falcon, a tough species on this itinerary.

We drove across the well-populated plains to Ramnagar and then on to Quality Inn, close to Corbett
NP. We began our exploration of the area around Quality Inn, known as Kumaria, by scanning for
Ibisbill from the suspension bridge over the Kosi River but, alas, no joy. It has now been many years
since the species was found wintering in the region. We had more success in the forest nearby, when
we tempted out a very responsive Nepal Wren-babbler. Further upstream along the Kosi River, we
soon noticed a nice Wallcreeper resting on a big round boulder, and had great views of a pair of
Brown Dippers feeding two young in a nest. Other riverine inhabitants included the usual Himalayan
Pied Kingfishers, White-capped River-chats, Plumbeous Water-redstarts, and White-browed Wagtails.
Later we visited the forest and clearings near Mohan, stopping along the way to admire a pair of
Pallas’s Fish-eagles at their huge nest. Along the track to Camp Forktail we located a bird flock which
held a rather tame Common Green Magpie, as well as a pair of one of the more difficult
woodpeckers, Himalayan Flameback. Tall trees along the edge of the clearing beyond the camp held
another good woodpecker, Great Slaty, three of which were scoped cavorting on a lofty bough, and
we also saw our first Streak-throated Woodpecker and Long-billed Pipit. Moving inside Corbett
National Park, to the station at Dhikala, we made a number of stops along the Ramganga River, small
groups of Indian White-rumped Spinetails were in evidence, and there was a Lesser Fish-eagle sitting
at close range below us at High Bank. A bird-wave held Blue-winged Minla, Whiskered Yuhina and
Blyth’s Leaf-warbler. After settling in to the accommodation, we embarked on our first of several jeep
rides around the extensive grasslands near Dhikala. It wasn’t long, before we were alerted to the
presence of a Tiger nearby, and we quickly sped off, bouncing along the rough track. We arrived in
the nick of time and, thanks to some canny manoeuvring by our driver, were soon staring at a large
male Tiger resting in the sparse undergrowth adjacent to us. It was all a bit of a shock, as none of us
had expected to see one here. Back in the grassland, during our various sorties, we found another
much-wanted target species White-throated (or Hodgson’s ) Bushchat – a rare and little-known
species recently found wintering regularly here – as well as Black Francolin, three species of harrier
(including a fantastic male Pied), Bright-capped Cisticola, and several small herds of Asian Elephants.
A large tusker gave us a momentary fright as it seemed to be heading straight for us, before suddenly
turning off into the forest. Along the shore of the reservoir, local rarities included two male Common
Goldeneye, Northern Lapwing and over 50 Bimaculated Larks. Around the Dhikala compound (now
complete with electrified fence to keep out the Tigers!) were several wonderful Collared Falconets
and our best seen Red-throated Flycatcher of the trip. Along a track to nearby Kinanauli, we were
treated to a nice roosting Brown Fish-owl, but struggled with singing Grey-bellied Tesia and Pygmy
Wren Babbler without success. The grass-fringed backwaters near here brought us a beautiful male
Himalayan Rubythroat and several Crested Buntings, but Large Bush-warbler was only heard briefly
and distantly. Not long before dusk, a cracking little Jungle Owlet appeared in the compound at
Kinanauli, and posed there for photos. The journey back to the main park gate from Dhikala was also
eventful, with three Oriental Pied Hornbills, a foraging group of Small-billed Scaly Thrushes and
Grey-winged Blackbirds, and our second Wallcreeper.

Leaving Corbett NP behind, we headed off for Naini Tal in the outer ranges of the Himalayas. On the
way to Ramnagar me made a couple of short stops. The first involved a concentration of several
breeding pairs of White-rumped Vultures, a rare sight these days, while the second was for a pair of
snoozing Indian Scops-owls right outside some tea-stalls next to the busy road. Only in India! Just
before reaching Naini Tal, we stopped for a brief spell of birding in the ‘low fields’. This proved a
wise decision, as we saw our only three Bearded Vultures of the trip, soaring over the high peaks,
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where the last rays of sunshine illuminated there unique features. A Goral standing motionless on a
grassy slope was also a bonus. Our first day up in the hills was spent along the very birdy road down
to Sat Tal. In the scrub and small fields we found plenty of Black-throated Accentors (completely
absent last year), with the more frequently seen Rufous-breasted (though that was scarce this year),
small groups of Himalayan Greenfinches and White-capped Buntings, and lots of neat Cinnamon
Sparrows. Small numbers of Alpine Swifts were unexpected. Various trails near the lakes themselves
brought multiple sightings of the much sought-after Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush, as well as a
fearless Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, several Red-billed Leiothrixes, Black-chinned Babbler,
Himalayan Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, and both Blue-fronted and Blue-capped Redstarts. Along the
temple trail, a female Chestnut Bunting was a big surprise, being well outside its normal range.

Our second day in the Naini Tal area was spent exploring the road to Pangot and beyond, as far a
steep grassy ridge, where we had tried our best to see Cheer Pheasant on the previous tour. This year
however, we were not to be denied, as fortune was on our side. No sooner had we heard their
distinctive shrill cries, than Jim called out “I think I’ve got them”. Sure enough, there they were, a pair
of adults feeding completely in the open on a steep, short-grassed slope, where they remained for
more than an hour, and as long as we wished to study them. What an honour! On the drive back to
Pangot, the driver slammed on the brakes, as a male and two female Koklass Pheasants were right on
the road-verge in front of the mini-bus. Feeling rather satisfied with ourselves, we headed for Pangot,
pausing for a nice cup of Garam Chai on the way. Lokesh, the guide at Jungle Lore lodge was kind
enough to put some food out for the birds while we ate our lunch, and we were soon looking at four
species of laughingthrush (White-throated, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned) scrapping for
grains of rice with the superb Black-headed Jays, all right in front of us. As if alerted by the melee, an
impressive adult Mountain Hawk-eagle circled overhead. On our last day in the Naini Tal area, we
explored all the way along the road beyond Pangot, as far as its end at Kunjakharak Forest Resthouse.
Over the two days, the beautiful mixed forests between Naini Tal and Kunjakharak also brought us
Black Eagle, Brown-fronted Pied, Himalayan Pied and Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, White-browed
and Green Shrike Babblers, Rufous Sibia, Black-lored Yellow, Spot-winged and Yellow-browed Tits,
lots of White-tailed Nuthatches, and Bar-tailed Treecreeper. Apart from Cheer Pheasant, the grassy
slopes and clearings held Himalayan Buzzard, large wintering flocks of Altai Accentor, more Black-
throated Accentors and Striated Prinias. Upland Pipit was unfortunately only heard.

From Naini Tal, we had to make our way to Agra for the second leg of the tour, and this was done by
taking the overnight sleeper train from Lalkua Junction. On the way to the station we had a morning
to do some roadside forest birding on the way down to Kaladhungi. First, we stopped again at the low
fields below Naini Tal. It was surprisingly cold, as the sun was taking forever to reach our secluded
location. Instead, we were warmed by point blank views of Golden Bush-robin and our best looks at
some ridiculously tame Kalij Pheasants. The forested valley slopes just uphill from Kaladhungi
produced our fourth Asian Barred Owlet, a cracking Blue-bearded Bee-eater, two flocks of Black-
chinned Yuhinas and good views of Pale-billed Flowerpecker.

The train journey to Agra passed quickly and smoothly though, due to line-works, we had to get
down at Mathura, and travel the last stretch to Agra in our now familiar mini-bus. Best not waste
words trying to describe the world-renowned Taj Mahal, people just need to see it for themselves!
Our tour of nearby Agra Fort was also of great Interest. Although we were mainly concerned with
culture, we still managed to add a few new species to the list, notably six rather showy Indian Grey
Hornbills in the Taj Mahal Garden. We headed off for Bharatpur, arriving at our excellent hotel, The
Bagh, in time for lunch. On the way, we were lucky enough to notice an impressive Indian Black Ibis
close to the road, our only one of the trip. Our reason for coming to Bharatpur of course, was to visit
Keoladeo National Park, famed for its concentrations of large waterbirds and wintering waterfowl.
Unfortunately, the gods hadn’t read the script, and the previous autumn’s monsoon had passed
Keoladeo by, leaving it almost completely dry! As if this wasn’t enough, we were hit by a double
whammy, when we learned that Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve had been closed due to a dispute
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between the various classes of vehicle driver there. Anyway, one hurdle at a time! As far as Keoladeo
NP was concerned, plan B involved a visit to nearby Bund Baretha to catch-up on our waterbirds.
Several short stops on the way there brought us lots of goodies; birds seem to be everywhere in India,
and this route was no exception. Patches of marsh and grassland supported a pair of Brown Crakes,
some inquisitive Striated Babblers, and three species of weaver side-by-side, while dry fields
supported a small number of Ashy-crowned Finch-larks. Bund Baretha itself was chock-a-block with
birds, and I don’t think we could have asked for more. Highlights included Red-crested and
Ferruginous Pochards, Indian Skimmer, two White-tailed Lapwings, a female Greater Painted-snipe, a
singing and displaying Rufous-tailed Lark, a female Variable Wheatear, and both Indian Reed- and
Smoky Leaf-warblers. We paid a visit to the abandoned Kishen Mahal Palace, which boasts a superb
view across the wetlands here, and drank chai in the shade while huge flocks of Rock Pigeons and
Rose-ringed Parakeets fed on grain that the old caretaker had put out for them. All that remained in
the park at Keoladeo, was to track down the non-waterbirds! As usual, the guides had various
nightbirds staked-out at there daytime roosts, and we were lucky enough to see Dusky Eagle-owl on
the nest, another pair of Indian Scops-owls, a beautiful rufous morph Oriental Scops-owl, Spotted
Owlet, Brown Hawk-owl, and both Large-tailed and the recently split Indian Jungle Nightjars. Certain
resident woodland species were also high on our want-list, and we succeeded in tracking down
Common Hawk-cuckoo, Indian Pygmy and Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpeckers, Brown-headed
Barbet, White-eared Bulbul, and a male Marshall’s Iora. There is usually at least one surprise at
Keoladeo, and this year it was a beautiful female White-bellied Minivet, hanging-out with a flock of
Small Minivets. A few puddles and flashes of water remained around Keoladeo Temple and
Sapanmori, attracting a mixed flock of Sarus and Common Cranes, Black-necked Stork, and much
reduced numbers of raptors which, nevertheless included Greater Spotted, Eastern Imperial, Booted
and Bonelli’s Eagles. Forays into the grassland area at the far end of the park failed to produce the
much-wanted Indian Spotted Eagle, but instead brought us great views of a Brooks’s Leaf-warbler and
an amazing Indian Crested Porcupine in broad daylight.

Well, as luck would have it, the dispute at Ranthambhore was resolved, and leaving Keoladeo NP
behind, we felt very positive. The drive to Sawai Madhopur, via Dausa and Lalkot was just as
interesting as ever, despite the dry conditions. Not far south of Dausa we noticed a pair of superb
Indian Coursers, and jumped out to get some great close views. A small group of Yellow-wattled
Lapwings were the only ones that we saw. The Banas River held the only water that we noticed along
the route, and even that was a pretty pathetic site, with no birds of real note. We carried on to our
final destination, at Tiger Moon Resort on the outskirts of Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. After check-
in, we still had time to visit a nearby pool, where we were treated to superb views of about 35 or
more Painted Sandgrouse coming to drink, as well as a pair of Savanna Nightjars, great views of a
pair of White-naped Flamebacks, and large numbers of Dusky Crag-martins. A squadron of five
Dalmatian Pelicans passed low overhead. The following day we did two separate jeep rides in
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. The scenery was stunning and we were able to view an impressive
assemblage of Indian mammals at close range. During the morning excursion, we were lucky enough
to find a fairly confiding pair of Painted Spurfowl trundling across a rocky, sparsely vegetated slope.
In the semi-desert areas surrounding the park, we found some tame Indian Bushlarks, another female
Variable Wheatear, several Rufous-fronted Prinias, and another eight Painted Sandgrouse. Our
customary excursion to Suriwal Lake will probably be remembered for the wrong reasons this year, as
it was completely dry, apart from a small puddle with a Green Sandpiper on it, and the entire area
was cultivated. Even the dry hills nearby could only produce a Sirkeer Malkoha. On the way there
however, we checked a roosting area of Indian Stone-curlew, which this year held 21 birds. About an
hours drive away, we were taken to a site for Blackbuck, but unfortunately the height of the mustard
crops made viewing impossible this time. Instead, we contented ourselves with good views of the
Red-headed Buntings that winter in the area. We drove back through Sawai Madhopur and paid a
visit to Jhoomar Baori, a beautiful old palace poised on a hill-top overlooking the tiger reserve. We
ate our lunch on the roof, while watching the Indian Vultures that breed on the nearby cliffs. In the
afternoon we birded near Tiger Moon, adding little to our tally, but enjoying further views of
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sandgrouse and nightjars. Immediately after dark, an Indian Eagle-owl began calling distantly...and
then closer, but all we could manage was rather distant silhouette views with eye-shine, in the scope.
Another time. On our third day we decided to visit a new site called Imlidihe, which is situated by
the Banas River adjacent to the north-east boundary of Ranthambhore. Our two targets here were the
declining Black-bellied Tern and more widespread Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. On arrival by the
riverside, soon after sun-up, we were immediately greeted by a superb Black-bellied Tern hovering in
front of us! We drove across the shallow river and continued in search of sandgrouse. We stopped to
scope some distant Great Thick-knees, which were hard to find this year. Meanwhile, Jim and our
guide were watching and discussing a sighting behind us. We all turned around just in time to see a
pack of five Indian Wolves casually trotting by like the local village dogs. Suddenly hit by the
significance of this sighting we leapt back in the jeep and went after them. A few hundred metres on,
and they were still there, trotting effortlessly and then turning to watch us. One even sat and
scratched itself right in front of the jeep. It was an unforgettable experience. As the day warmed we
continued our quest for Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, and were eventually rewarded by great views of
a flock of 15. Also of note here were a tired-looking Great White Pelican, a nice male opistholeuca
Variable Wheatear, and some cracking Rosy Starlings. After lunch back at Tiger Moon, we made our
last jeep excursion into the park and, this time, had much more success. We new that a female and
her three eight-month old cubs were on our route and, about half-way into the ride, we got the word
that they had been spotted and headed off to the place. It wasn’t long before we could all see two of
the cubs (though they were a bit too big to still be called cubs!) lying down, and eventually all three
were seen, and even heard growling as they playfully fought with each other. What a great mammal
day! Our final mornings birding of the tour was spent following a rocky ravine into the hills behind
Tiger Moon, good views of commoner species were had, and we even found some Leopard scat. But
I guess our minds were pretty much elsewhere.

Dosing on the train ride back to Delhi, we were able to reflect back on an another excellent tour to
this amazing country.
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SYSTEMATIC LIST

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).
Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

PODICEPEDIDAE
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Commonly recorded during the second half of the tour, including
at least 60 at Bund Baretha.
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus: Ten at Bund Baretha.

PELECANIDAE
Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: Just a single bird in flight at Imlidihe.
Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus: We were very fortunate to see a low-flying group of five near
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve.

PHALACROCORACIDAE
Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: Regularly recorded throughout.
Indian Shag (I Cormorant) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: Just a single bird with other cormorants at Bund
Baretha.
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Regular throughout.

ANHINGIDAE
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: A few scattered sightings.

ARDEIDAE
Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Common throughout.
Great Egret Egretta alba: Common throughout.
Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: Scattered sightings of single birds during the second half of the
tour.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Common throughout.
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Frequently encountered during the second leg of the tour.
Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: This recent split was commonly seen in suitable habitat
throughout.
Indian Pond-heron Ardeola grayii: Common throughout, but particularly in more southerly areas.
Striated Heron (Little H) Butorides striata: Singles at Ramnagar barrage and Ranthambhore TR.

CICONIIDAE
Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: Just two at Bund Baretha.
Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: Scattered sightings of small numbers between the Ganges and
Sawai Madhopur.
Black Stork Ciconia nigra: Small numbers were found at Corbett National Park.
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Three or four at Corbett NP, one at Ramnagar barrage and
one at Ranthambhore TR.
Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus: Surely the finest stork in the region. A pair at
Dhikala, and just one or two at Keoladeo NP.

THRESKIORNITHIDAE
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: At least 20 at Bund Baretha.
Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: Scattered sightings of small numbers during the
second half of the tour.
Indian Black Ibis (Red-naped I) Pseudibis papillosa: Close views of a glistening individual between
Agra and Bharatpur.
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: About 30 at Bund Baretha.
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PHOENICOPTERIDAE
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus: A single juvenile at Bund Baretha.

ANATIDAE
Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica: A single flock of up to 40 birds at Bund Baretha.
Greylag Goose Anser anser: Reasonable numbers of eastern rubrirostris were wintering at various
sites on the southern leg of the tour.
Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus: The maximum count was 100 at Bund Baretha.
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: Widespread and common in suitable wintering habitat.
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos: Just a single dosing bird at Bund Baretha.
Cotton Teal (C Pygmy-Goose) Nettapus coromandelianus: Very good numbers of this neat little duck
at Bund Baretha, with 300 estimated, and four at Ranthambhore TR.
Gadwall Anas strepera: Relatively small numbers wintering in southern localities on the tour.
Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: Relatively small numbers wintering in southern localities on the
tour.
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Just ten at Dhikala, and 20 at Bund Baretha.
Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha: Fairly common and widespread during the second
part of the tour.
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: The commonest wintering duck along with Eurasian Teal.
Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Rather scarce this year.
Garganey Anas querquedula: Four at Bund Baretha.
Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: See Northern Shoveler.
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina: A female at Ramnagar barrage was unexpected, and there were at
least 25 in the Eurasian Coot rafts at Bund Baretha.
Common Pochard Aythya ferina: Five at Ramnagar barrage and 20 at Bund Baretha.
Ferruginous Duck (F Pochard) Aythya nyroca: Just a single bird at Bund Baretha.
Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula: Two crisp males were seen flying above the early morning
mist at Dhikala. A rarity in this part of the world.

ACCIPITRIDAE
Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested H B) Pernis ptilorhyncus: Small numbers were regularly seen well.
Black-winged Kite (B-shouldered K) Elanus caeruleus: Frequently seen in suitable habitats
throughout.
Black Kite Milvus migrans: Common during the first half of the tour.
Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: Single juveniles were identified at Suriwal Lake and near
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve.
Pallas’s Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus: At least six of these magnificent birds in the
Kumaria/Corbett NP area, including a pair at their huge nest.
Lesser Fish-Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis: Two were found along the backwaters of Corbett NP.
Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) Gypaetus barbatus: In retrospect, we were extremely fortunate to see
three in flight together near Naini Tal.
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: Occasional sightings.
White-rumped Vulture (Indian White-backed V) Gyps bengalensis: Nine adults and three occupied
nests were seen five km before Ramnagar, as we departed Corbett NP. A regular nesting
area for this troubled species.
Indian Vulture Gyps indicus: These cliff-nesters are still common at Ranthambhore, but we could
only muster four birds at Jhoomar Baori. Only found in India, and adjacent extreme SE
Pakistan.
Himalayan Vulture (H Griffon V, H Griffon) Gyps himalayensis: Up to 18 in the
Corbett/Ramnagar/Naini Tal area.
Cinereous Vulture (Eurasian Black V) Aegypius monachus: Great views of at least three of these
massive birds at Dhikala, a regular spot for this scarce vulture.
Red-headed Vulture Aegypius calvus: Small numbers throughout.
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Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela: Scattered singles throughout.
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Just two at Bund Baretha. Not much to feed on this year
at their usual haunts.
Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus: At least three in the grasslands at Dhikala and another in the same
habitat at Keoladeo NP.
Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: A nice juvenile was watched hunting at Dhikala.
Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: Once again, a beautiful male was seen extremely well at Dhikala.
Shikra Accipiter badius: Scattered sightings of this common lowland raptor.
Besra Sparrowhawk (Besra) Accipiter virgatus: One perched at close range at Keoladeo NP was most
unexpected.
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: One was seen at close range in flight near Naini Tal.
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: A single dark morph bird was soaring above the entrance to
Ranthambhore TR one day.
Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus: Two were seen well near Naini Tal.
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Great views of this local rarity at Binayak ridge, near Naini Tal
Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: Numbers were well down at Keoladeo this year, with only 5
seen. Only one ‘fulvescens’ morph was noted, a very rusty juvenile. Another tatty bird at
Sat Tal.
Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: Four in the Naini Tal area.
Eastern Imperial Eagle (Imperial E) Aquila heliaca: At least two adults at Keoladeo NP, A very
impressive eagle.
Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: We saw a juvenile in Corbett NP, a pair of adults near Pangot,
and a juvenile at Keoladeo NP.
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: Just one perched at Keoladeo NP.
Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: An adult was seen soaring at Ramnagar barrage, though
rather too briefly.
Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus limnaeetus: A noisy perched juvenile was seen on several
occasions at Dhikala.
Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: Fantastic views of a soaring adult at Pangot.

PANDIONIDAE
Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Three at Corbett NP, and another at Bund Baretha.

FALCONIDAE
Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens: A good year, with two near Quality Inn, and at least
three at Dhikala. A really neat little falcon.
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Regular sightings at scattered sites.
Laggar Falcon Falco jugger: One was scoped roosting on one of the giant pylons at the Ganges
crossing, near Gajraula.
Peregrine Falcon (Peregrine) Falco peregrinus: One Shaheen Falcon Falco p. peregrinator was seen
perched at Dhikala.

PHASIANIDAE
Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus: Small numbers along grassland tracks at Dhikala, and one
flushed in the ‘grassland area’ at Keoladeo NP.
Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus: Common throughout, in suitable habitat.
Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata: Jim spotted a fairly tame pair at Ranthambhore TR, foraging
right next to a track. Endemic to India.
Koklass Pheasant Pucrasia macrolopha: We had great views of this overdue write-in. At least two
males and two females were seen along the roadside near Binayak. We were able to
watch one male feeding for a considerable length of time, from the comfort of our
vehicle.
Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Seen very well on several occasions in the north.
8 Birdquest: Northern India & The Himalayas 2006
Kaleej Pheasant (Kalij P) Lophura leucomelanos: Superb views this year, particularly of an
unbelievably tame group that were squabbling in the fields and scrub below us, near
Naini Tal. At least 18 in total.
Cheer Pheasant Catreus wallichii: Hardly surprising that this rare Himalayan pheasant was the
unanimous bird of the tour. Jim saved us a lot of effort when he quickly locked-on to a
pair feeding out on an open slope. What an unbelievable stroke of good fortune, to see
this secretive species so easily.
Indian Peafowl (Common P) Pavo cristatus: This well respected galliforme was common throughout,
in suitable habitat.

GRUIDAE
Sarus Crane Grus antigone: Considering the drought, we were fortunate to see 14 at Keoladeo NP,
including two displaying elegantly together.
Common Crane Grus grus: Just two with the last species.

RALLIDAE
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Common during the second leg of the tour.
Brown Crake Porzana akool: Two on the way to Bund Baretha, and one at Ranthambhore. Great
views, and even watched giving its Little-Grebe-like song.
Grey-headed Swamphen (G-h Gallinule) Porphyrio poliocephalus: 15 during the day that we visited
Bund Baretha.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Common during the second leg of the tour.
Eurasian Coot (Common C) Fulica atra: Abundant at Bund Baretha, with over 1,500 logged. Just
scattered sightings elsewhere.

JACANIDAE
Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Six at Bund Baretha and three at Ranthambhore
TR; all in non-breeding plumage.
Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: Similar numbers to the last species; at the same places.

ROSTRATULIDAE
Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis: Good views of a female on a small pool near Bund
Baretha.

CHARADRIIDAE
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Just four at the Ganges and two at Corbett NP.
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Four at Bund Baretha, and ten on the Banas River near
Sawai Madhopur.
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: A single bird at Dhikala.
Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus: We found five with the Indian Coursers on the way to
Sawai Madhopur.
River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: Regularly seen along rivers throughout.
Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Common throughout; one of the most familiar shorebirds of
the region.
White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus: A very poor year with just two at Bund Baretha, and two on
the Banas River near Sawai Madhopur.

SCOLOPACIDAE
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Small numbers during the second half of the trip.
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: Fairly common during the second half of the trip, particularly at
Bund Baretha.
Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: Three at Bund Baretha and two on the Banas River near Sawai
Madhopur.
9 Birdquest: Northern India & The Himalayas 2006
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: Small numbers during the second half of the tour.
Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Small numbers were regularly seen.
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Commonly recorded throughout.
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Small numbers during the second half of the tour.
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Small numbers throughout.
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Fairly common in marshy wetlands during the second half of the
trip.
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Commonly recorded throughout.
Little Stint Calidris minuta: Reasonable numbers on the Ganges and Banas Rivers.
Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: Small numbers, particularly during the latter part of the tour,
but great views on several occasions.
Dunlin Calidris alpina: Just one at Bund Baretha and one on the Banas River near Sawai Madhopur.
Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Only one at Keoladeo NP, but at least 20 at Bund Baretha.

RECURVIROSTRIDAE
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Probably the commonest and most widespread
shorebird.
Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: Three had taken up residence on the shrinking sandgrouse pool
near Tiger Moon.

BURHINIDAE
Indian Stone-curlew (I Thick-knee) Burhinus indicus: Goggle-eye was seen very well near Sawai
Madhopur (21 by the track to Suriwal Lake). This is a recent split from Eurasian Stone-
Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus; being very distinct in its proportions and vocalisations.
Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris: Just three at Imlidihe, before we got distracted by the Indian
Wolves.

GLAREOLIDAE
Indian Courser Cursorius coromandelicus: Once again, we found this species in a roadside dry area
between Bharatpur and Sawai Madhopur. A pair were seen at close range, for an
extended period, not far south of Dausa.

LARIDAE
Steppe Gull Larus [cachinnans] barabensis: Three adults on the Ganges near Gajraula. Although
Caspian Gull L. cachinnans is now generally accepted as a valid species, the affinities of
the present form remain more open to debate; though it is generally regarded as a race of
Caspian.
Great Black-headed Gull (Pallas’s G) Larus ichthyaetus: Five were at the Ganges crossing, and there
were singles at Bund Baretha and Imlidihe.
Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: Just one found by Lotta at the Ganges.
Common Black-headed Gull (Black-headed G) Larus ridibundus: About 60 at The Ganges.
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica: One very distant bird at Bund Baretha.
River Tern Sterna aurantia: Only very small numbers of this sleek tern this year, with a maximum
count of just six at Imlidihe.
Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda: Three at Imlidihe. This lovely tern is in decline, and is now
almost extinct in SE Asia for example.
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida: Small numbers at Bund Baretha and Ranthambhore.

RYNCHOPIDAE
Indian Skimmer Rynchops albicollis: We were lucky to find one resting on an island at Bund Baretha.
It even managed to wake up and do a brief skim for us!

10 Birdquest: Northern India & The Himalayas 2006