Niche Fashion Magazines: Changing the Shape of Fashion PDF
Preview Niche Fashion Magazines: Changing the Shape of Fashion
i Ane Lynge- Jorlén is an independent fashion scholar and curator. She has taught at London College of Fashion, Parsons Paris School of Art & Design and Lund University. She works with experimental fashion across exhibi- tions and graduate education. Her work on fashion magazines and styling has been published in the journals Fashion Theory and Fashion Practice and in the anthology Nordic Fashion Studies. Ane is also a frequent contributor to the Danish newspaper Weekendavisen. ii Series Editors: Reina Lewis & Elizabeth Wilson Advisory Board: Christopher Breward, Hazel Clark, Joanne Entwistle, Caroline Evans, Susan Kaiser, Angela McRobbie, Hiroshi Narumi, Peter McNeil, Özlem Sandikci, Simona Segre Reinach Dress Cultures aims to foster innovative theoretical and methodological frame- works to understand how and why we dress, exploring the connections between clothing, commerce and creativity in global contexts. Published and forthcoming: Branding Fashion: Bridging the Self and the Niche Fashion Magazines: Changing the Shape of Social Consumer Fashion by Anthony Sullivan by Ane Lynge-Jorlén Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Sinophilia: Fashion, Western Modernity and Fashion Things Chinese after 1900 edited by Anneke Smelik by Sarah Cheang Dressing for Austerity: Aspiration, Leisure and Styling South Asian Youth Cultures: Fashion, Fashion in Post- War Britain Media and Society by Geraldine Biddle- Perry edited by Lipi Begum, Rohit Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival K. Dasgupta and Reina Lewis and the Grotesque Body Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key by Francesca Granata Theorists Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, edited by Agnès Rocamora and Politics and the Body, 1775– 1925 Anneke Smelik edited by Justine De Young Veiling in Fashion: Space and the Hijab in Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in Minority Communities the Transglobal Landscape by Anna- Mari Almila edited by Wessie Ling and Simona Wearing the Cheongsam: Dress and Culture in a Segre Reinach Chinese Diaspora Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender By Cheryl Sim by Rachel Lifter Wearing the Niqab: Fashioning Identities Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith among Muslim Women in the UK edited by Reina Lewis by Anna Piela Reina Lewis: [email protected] Elizabeth Wilson: [email protected] At the publisher, Philippa Brewster: [email protected] iii Niche Fashion Magazines Changing the Shape of Fashion Ane Lynge- Jorlén iv Published in 2017 by I.B.Tauris & Co. Ltd London • New York www.ibtauris.com Copyright © 2017 Ane Lynge-Jorlén The right of Ane Lynge-Jorlén to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Every attempt has been made to gain permission for the use of the images in this book. Any omissions will be rectified in future editions. References to websites were correct at the time of writing. Dress Cultures ISBN: 978 1 78453 147 8 eISBN: 978 1 78672 179 2 ePDF: 978 1 78673 179 1 A full CIP record for this book is available from the British Library A full CIP record is available from the Library of Congress Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: available Typeset by Newgen Printed and bound by CPI Group (UK) Ltd, Croydon, CR0 4YY v To Erik vi vii CONTENTS Figures ix Acknowledgements xi 1 Fashion Magazines Below the Radar 1 2 Between Edge and Elite: Niche Fashion Magazines 22 3 Contemporary Niche Fashion Magazines 47 4 The Case of DANSK Magazine 72 5 ‘It’s Never Good Enough’: Cultures of Niche Fashion Magazine Production and Fashion Capital 97 6 ‘Preaching to the Already Converted’: Readers, Consumption of Exclusivity and Reproduction of the Codes 132 7 ‘An Extension of Yourself’: Magazine Possessions, Social Distinction and Consumption as Production 171 8 The Future of Niche Fashion Magazines 191 Appendix 199 Notes 201 Bibliography 205 Index 215 viii ix FIGURES 1 Photography by Inez and Vinoodh. Courtesy of The Gentlewoman 36 2 Photography: Pierre Debusschere. Styling: Robbie Spencer. Model: Hanne Gaby Odiele. Gold mouthpiece by Lucie Vincini. Courtesy of A Magazine. 51 3 Photography: Alice Hawkins. Styling: Anders Sølvsten Thomsen. Courtesy of Alice Hawkins. 54 4 Photography: Sibylle Walter. Styling: Mauricio Nardi. Model: Alba Pistolesi. Courtesy of Encens 57 5 Photography: Federico Cabrera. Styling & Art Direction: Jasmin Mishima. Make up: Tadayoshi Honda. Headpieces: Kunio Kohzaki. Model: Nykhor Paul. Courtesy of REVS 58 6 Photography: Daniel Jackson. Styling: Mattias Karlson. Model: Guinevere. Courtesy of Acne Studios 59 7 Photography: Hasse Nielsen. Styling: Simon Rasmussen. Model: Malgosia. Courtesy of DANSK 73 8 Photography: Daniel Jackson. Styling: Alistair McKimm. Model: Erin Wasson. Courtesy of DANSK 81
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