New Growth: The Art and Texture of Black Hair

249 Pages·2022·14.457 MB·English

by  Jasmine Nichole Cobb

THE ART AND TEXTURE
OF BLACK HAIR
B
B
O
C

E
L
O
H
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Visual arts of africa
I
N and its diasporas

E A series edited by Kellie Jones
N
I and Steven Nelson
M
S duke uniVersity press
A
J Durham and London 2023
© 2023 duke uniVersity press All rights reserved
Printed in the United States of America on acid- free paper ∞
Production editor: Lisa Lawley
Designed by Courtney Leigh Richardson
Typeset in Portrait, Gill Sans, and Trade Gothic
by Copperline Book Services
Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data
Names: Cobb, Jasmine Nichole, author.
Title: New growth : the art and texture of black hair /
Jasmine Nichole Cobb.
Other titles: Visual arts of Africa and its diasporas.
Description: Durham : Duke University Press, 2023. | Series:
The visual arts of Africa and its diasporas. | Includes
bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: lccn 2022020085 (print)
lccn 2022020086 (ebook)
isbn 9781478016434 (hardcover)
isbn 9781478019077 (paperback)
isbn 9781478023708 (ebook)
Subjects: lcsh: Hairdressing of Black people—Social aspects. |
Hairdressing of African Americans—Social aspects. | Hairdressing
of Black people—History. | Hairdressing of African Americans—History. |
Black people—Race identity. | African Americans—Race identity. | bisac:
social science / Ethnic Studies / American / African American &
Black Studies | history / Social History
Classification: lcc gt2290.c633 2023 (print) | lcc gt2290 (ebook) |
ddc 391.5089/96—dc23/eng/20220701
lc record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2022020085
lc ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2022020086
Cover art: Lorna Simpson, Jet Double Sit-in, 2012. Collage
and ink on paper. Unframed: 113⁄16 � 811⁄16 in. (22.1 � 28.4 cm).
Framed: 12 � 9½ � 1½ in. (30.5 � 24.1 � 3.8 cm). © Lorna Simpson.
Courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth.
FOR ALI AND ASA
List of Illustrations • viii
INTRODUCTION
Acknowledgments • xiii
11
22
33
44
CONCLUSION
CONTENTS
NEW GROWTH • BLACK HAIR AND LIBERATION 1
ARCHIVE • SLAVERY, SENTIMENT, AND FEELING 25
TEXTURE • THE COARSENESS OF RACIAL CAPITALISM 57
TOUCH • CAMERA IMAGES AND CONTACT REVISIONS 97
SURFACE • THE ART OF BLACK HAIR 131
CROWNING GESTURES 155
Notes • 161
Bibliography • 177
Index • 193
FIGURES • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
I.1 I.6 1.3
Samuel J. Miller, Ken Gonzales- Day, Henry Benjamin
Frederick Douglass, Digital Composition Latrobe, Preparations for
1847 – 52 • 2 of “Bust of a Man,” the Enjoyment of a Fine
2015 • 18–19 Sunday Evening, 1797 • 31
I.2
Lucy, Holding I.7 1.4
Charlotte, ca. 1845 • 3 Charles- Henri- Henry Benjamin
Joseph Cordier, Vénus Latrobe, Market Folks,
I.3
africaine, 1852 • 20 New Orleans, 1819 • 32
James Karales,
Passive Resistance I.8 1.5
Training, 1960 • 8 Kerry James Marshall, McPherson and
De Style, 1993 • 21 Oliver, Escaped Slave
I.4
Gordon, Also Known as
David Hammons, Nap
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • “Whipped Peter,” Showing
Tapestry, 1978 • 11
His Scarred Back at a
I.5 1.1 Medical Examination,
Colin Quashie, Wooden sewing box Baton Rouge,
SlaveShip Brand belonging to Ruth Cox Louisiana, 1863 • 41
Sardines, 2012 • 12 Adams, ca. 1847 • 26
1.2
Wendel A. White,
Frederick Douglass
Hair, 2012 • 26
ILLUSTRATIONS
1.6 2.1 2.6
McPherson and Oliver, “Frederick Douglass” “Raveen Au Naturelle
Escaped Slave Gordon, enters the doorway. Spray ’n’ Glow”
Also Known as “Whipped Commercial still (advertisement), Ebony,
Peter” (verso), 1863 • 41 for Afro Sheen hair December 1967 • 78
products, 1970s • 58
1.7 2.7
An Interior View of 2.2 “Afro Sheen Stays
a Jamaica House of Clay examines on the Case”
Correction, ca. 1834 • 47 cosmetics. Commercial (advertisement), Ebony,
still for Afro Sheen hair January 1969 • 79
1.8
products, 1970s • 59
Benjamin F. Powelson, 2.8
Portrait of Harriet 2.3 “Wantu Wazuri”
Tubman, 1868 • 53 Hairstyles of four (advertisement), Ebony,
women, from 400 March 1970 • 80
1.9
Years without a
Portrait of Ruth 2.9
Comb, 1966 • 69
Cox Adams, “Afro Sheen Blowout
ca. 1870 • 54 2.4 Kit,” late 1960s • 81
Frederick Douglass
2.10
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • portrait, from 400
Dedan Kimathi
Years without a
Waciuri, 1956 • 86
Comb, 1966 • 70
2.5
Emory Douglas, Afro-
American Solidarity with
the Oppressed People of
the World, 1969 • 73