Table Of Content

Recipes for Classics Revisited N E W G E R M A N C O O K I N G JE RE MY & J E SS I CA N O LE N with DREW LAZOR photographs by JASON VARNEY CHRONICLE BOOKS SAN FRANCISCO Text copyright © 2014 by Jeremy Nolen. Photographs copyright © 2014 by Jason Varney. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available ISBN 978-1-4521-2806-1 (hc) ISBN 978-1-4521-3648-6 (epub, mobi) Manufactured in China Design by The Heads of State Prop and food styling by Carrie Purcell Chronicle Books LLC 680 Second Street San Francisco, California 94107 www.chroniclebooks.com CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ..............................................................................................10 1: BREADS & SPREADS BROTZEIT ...................................................................16 Bavarian Pretzels Laugenbrezel ................................................................................18 Sourdough Barley Bread with Sage Topping Gerstenbrot ..................................................22 Golden Flaxseed Mixed Bread Leinsamen Mischbrot .......................................................25 Crispy Sauerkraut Fritters Sauerkraut Kroketten ...........................................................28 Green Asparagus and Aged Gouda Dip Spargelaufstrich ................................................. 30 Herbed Lard and Pork Cracklings Griebenschmalzbrot ................................................... 32 Sweet-and-Sour Pickled Trout Rolls Forellen Rollmops ....................................................35 Baked Smoked Fish Spread with Capers Fischaufstrich .................................................. 36 Bavarian Cheese Spread Obatzda .............................................................................38 Smoked Beef Marrowbones with Parsley-Cornichon Salad Knochenmark ............................. 39 Cold-Smoked Venison Carpaccio with Pickled Oyster Mushrooms Rehcarpaccio .................... 40 Headcheese Presskopf ...........................................................................................42 Headcheese Salad with Mustard Dressing, Red Onion, and Dill Pickle Fleischsalat ..................45 Escargots with Hazelnut–Ramp Butter Schnecken in Haselnuss-Bärlauch-Butter ................... 46 2: SALADS SALATE ........................................................................................ 48 Dandelion Green Salad with Warm Bacon–Mustard Seed Vinaigrette Löwenzahnsalat ............. 50 Kale Salad with Paprika-Dusted Hazelnuts and Mustard Vinaigrette Grünekohlsalat ................52 Kohlrabi Salad with Black Garlic–Sour Cream Dressing Kohlrabisalat ..................................54 Roasted Parsnip Salad with Hazelnuts, Blue Cheese, and Wheat Beer Vinaigrette Pastinakensalat ................................................................55 Radish Salad with Cucumber, Watercress, Orange Segments, and Sheep’s Milk Cheese Rettichsalat .........................................................................59 White Asparagus Salad with Frisée, Cherry Tomatoes, and Aged Gouda Vinaigrette Spargelsalat . 60 Green Bean Salad with White Beans, Tomatoes, and Pine Nuts Bohnensalat ........................ 63 Heirloom Tomato Salad with Tarragon Vinaigrette and Goat Cheese Tomatensalat ................. 64 Potato and Cucumber Salad with Dill Vinaigrette Kartoffel-Gurkensalat ...............................65 Roasted Chicken, Porcini, Potato, and Squash Salad with Smoked Barley Malt Geflügelsalat ..... 66 3: SOUPS SUPPEN ......................................................................................... 68 Mushroom and Sauerkraut Goulash Pilzgulasch ............................................................70 Cucumber and Dill Soup with Pumpernickel Crumbs Gurkensuppe .....................................72 Truffled Hazelnut and Potato Soup Haselnusssuppe .......................................................73 Asparagus and Ramp Soup with Sautéed Morels Bärlauch-Spargel-Suppe .............................74 Beer and Cheese Soup Bierkäsesuppe ........................................................................77 Creamy Sauerkraut and Wheat Beer Soup Sauerkrautsuppe .............................................78 English Pea Soup with Shrimp and Fennel Confit Frische Erbsensuppe .................................79 Duck, Barley, and Mushroom Soup Entensuppe ............................................................80 4: FISH, SHELLFISH & POULTRY FISCH UND GEFLUGEL ................................. 84 Panfried Mackerel with Parsley-Caper Brown Butter Makrelle .......................................... 86 Grilled Salmon with Horseradish and Pickled Beet Sauce Lachs .........................................87 Grilled Whole Trout Stuffed with Herbed Butter Forelle ................................................. 90 Cod-Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Dill Cream Sauce Fischrouladen .......................................91 Seafood Stew with Paprika Broth Fischgulasch ............................................................ 94 Chicken Cutlets Stuffed with White Asparagus, Spinach, and Parmesan Cheese Hühnerrouladen .. 96 Grilled Marinated Chicken with Paprika Paprikash ........................................................ 98 Spaetzle with Chicken, Chanterelles, and Cream Jägerspätzle ........................................100 Chicken Braised in Riesling Huhn in Riesling Sosse ........................................................101 Pilsner-and-Pickle-Juice-Brined Roasted Chicken Hendl ................................................102 Duck Legs with Roasted Vegetables Entenkeule ..........................................................103 Roasted Goose with Pretzel-Apple Stuffing and Gewürztraminer Glaze Gans ......................105 5: MEAT & GAME FLEISCH UND WILDFLEISCH ...............................................108 Smoked Pork and Bacon Sausage Speckwurst ..............................................................110 Foie Gras Liverwurst Stopfleberwurst .......................................................................112 Spicy Hungarian-Style Bratwurst Ungarische Bratwurst .................................................114 Nuremberg-Style Bratwurst Bratwurst ......................................................................116 Grilled Tri-Tip with Cherry Tomato Relish Tafelspitz .....................................................119 Brisket Braised in Beer Bierfleisch ..........................................................................120 Spit-Roasted Beef Marinated in Onion, Garlic, Paprika, and Herbs Spiessbraten ....................121 Beef and Veal Meatballs with Lemon-Caper Cream Sauce Königsberger Klopse ....................124 Veal Sweetbread Schnitzel, Holsteiner-Style Kalbsbries Schnitzel ....................................126 Bone-In Pork Chop Schnitzel with Parsley Salad Schweinekotelett “Schnitzel Wiener Art” .......129 Pork Sirloin Steak, Brewmaster Style Braumeister Schweinesteak ......................................131 Spicy Marinated Pork Skewers with Peppers, Onions, and Zucchini Schaschlik ..................... 132 Roasted Rack of Pork with Apple Cider Sauce Schweinsbraten ........................................134 Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Green Herb Sauce Lammbraten in Grüner Sosse ......................137 Venison Medallions with Juniper–Black Pepper Brandy Sauce Rehmedaillons .......................139 Rabbit Braised in Spiced Red Wine with Blood Sausage Sauce Hasenpfeffer ........................140 6: VEGETABLES GEMUSE ..............................................................................142 White Asparagus with Porcini Mushroom Butter and Almonds Spargel ..............................144 Roasted Cauliflower with Egg-and-Crumb Crust Blumenkohl .........................................146 Barley-and-Mushroom-Stuffed Kohlrabi Gefülltes Kohlrabi ..............................................147 Roasted Salsify with Crispy Bacon Schwarzwurzeln .....................................................150 Radishes Braised in Chicken Stock, Butter, and Thyme Radieschen ....................................151 Creamed Spinach with Mushrooms and Crispy Shallots Rahmspinat ................................. 152 Savoy Cabbage Braised in Cider with Green Apples and Leeks Wirsing .............................. 153 Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Smoked Sausage and Shallots Rosenkohl ............................. 155 Potato, Parsnip, and Green Onion Pancakes Kartoffelpuffer ............................................156 Potato and Sauerkraut Gratin Kartoffel-Sauerkraut Gratin ..............................................157 7: NOODLES & DUMPLINGS NUDELN UND KNODEL ........................................160 Rye Egg Noodles Roggennudeln .............................................................................162 Semolina Egg Noodles Griessbandnudeln ..................................................................163 Semolina Noodles with Savoy Cabbage and Onions Krautfleckerl ......................................167 Buckwheat Spaetzle Buchweizen Spätzle ..................................................................168 Spaetzle with Ham, Peas, Cream, and Aged Gouda Schinkenspätzle .................................. 171 Spaetzle with Asparagus, Aged Gouda, and Ramp-Hazelnut Pesto Gemüsespätzle .................172 Quark Cheese, Potato, and Herb Dumplings Schupfnudeln ..............................................174 Pretzel Dumpling with Smoked Sausage Brezelknödel ....................................................176 Potato, Spinach, and Sauerkraut Pierogi with Brown Butter and Sour Cream Schlutzkrapfen .....178 Spinach-and-Potato-Stuffed Pasta with Chanterelle Mushrooms Gratinierte Maultaschen .......180 Butternut Squash–Stuffed Pasta with Chestnut and Sage Brown Butter Kürbis Maultaschen ....183 8: PICKLES & CONDIMENTS EINGELEGTES GEMUSE .....................................186 Mustard Pickles Senfgurken ..................................................................................188 Pickled Red Beets and Eggs Rote Bete und Eier ...........................................................189 Pickled Mixed Vegetables Eingelegtes Gemüse ............................................................190 Pickled Sausages Pökelwurst ..................................................................................191 Naturally Fermented Sauerkraut Sauerkraut .............................................................194 Sweet and Spicy Beer Mustard Biersenf ...................................................................196 Pilsner Horseradish Mustard Meerrettich Senf .............................................................197 9: DESSERTS NACHTISCH .............................................................................198 Gingerbread Cookies with Orange Glaze Lebkuchen .....................................................201 Aniseed Sugar Cookies Springerle .......................................................................... 203 Pumpernickel Brownies Schoko Schnitten ................................................................. 206 Cherry and Quark Cheese Strudel Kirschstrudel ......................................................... 208 Apple Strudel Apfelstrudel ....................................................................................210 Almond-Honey Tart Mandeltorte ............................................................................ 213 Hazelnut, Dark Chocolate, and White Chocolate Torte Haselnusstorte ...............................217 Bee Sting Cake Bienenstich ...................................................................................219 Quark Cheesecake with Pretzel Crust Topfentorte .......................................................222 Malted Pots de Crème Malzkreme ...........................................................................223 Steamed Plum-Stuffed Sweet Yeasted Dumplings Dampfnudeln mit Pflaumen ......................224 Roasted Apricots with Spiced Dark Lager Sauce Aprikosenkompott ..................................226 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ...................................................................................227 RESOURCES..................................................................................................228 INDEX ..........................................................................................................229 INTRODUCTION S A U S A G E , S C H N I T Z E L , S A U E R K R A U T. ASK MOST PEOPLE what comes to mind when they hear the phrase German food and the response is likely to be those three dishes, quickly followed by such adjectives as heavy, fatty, and meat obsessed. Germany is thought of as a nation of mirthful drinkers, their food nothing more than the fuel that soaks up the beer. In other words, the German kitchen is regarded as hearty and serviceable but certainly not great. Here in the United States, German cuisine During this period, many of the German is never discussed with the same reverence restaurants opened by immigrants in metro- accorded the tables of France, Italy, and Spain. politan areas, such as Boston’s Jacob Wirth This is, of course, nonsense. For far too long, or The Berghoff in Chicago (both still in busi- German cooking has been underrated outside ness), built their menus around food native to of its national boundaries, and this book aims to the mountains of Bavaria. Over time, dishes change that. New German Cooking celebrates like pretzels, Weisswurst, potato salad, and the flavor, freshness, variety, and seasonality of sauerbraten grew to define German food in German cuisine. America, even though they represented only a fraction of the tradition. Bavarian social The earliest German immigrants to the United culture, with its oompah bands and giant beer States, who began arriving in the late 1600s steins, became synonymous with German from the west-central region known today as culture, as well. the Rhineland-Palatine, established them- selves as farmers in the Midwest and the Mid- Just like France, Italy, or Spain, Germany Atlantic. By the mid-nineteenth century, the is a country of regional cuisines representing period that saw the heaviest influx of German a staggering diversity of dishes, styles, and immigrants up to that point, major cities like ingredients. In the north, along the border New York, Philadelphia, and Saint Louis had with Denmark, seafood pulled from the developed thriving German populations of Baltic Sea and the North Atlantic dominates their own. cutting boards. French influences creep into NEW GERMAN COOKING 10