Never a City So Real Chicago Visions and Revisions edited by carlo rotella, bill savage, carl smith, and robert b. stepto also in the series: The World Is Always Coming to an End: Pulling Together and Apart on the South Side of Chicago by carlo rotella Bitten by the Blues: The Alligator Records Story by bruce iglauer and patrick a. roberts Dirty Waters: Confessions of Chicago’s Last Harbor Boss by r. j. nelson Friends Disappear: The Battle for Racial Equality in Evanston by mary barr You Were Never in Chicago by neil steinberg Hack: Stories from a Chicago Cab by dmitry samarov The Third City: Chicago and American Urbanism by larry bennett The Wagon and Other Stories from the City by martin preib Soldier Field: A Stadium and Its City by liam t. a. ford The Plan of Chicago: Daniel Burnham and the Remaking of the American City by carl smith Never a City So Real A Walk in Chicago with a new Afterword Alex Kotlowitz Alex Kotlowitz the Cunriovewrns itJyo oufr ncheiycsago press CchRiOcWaNgoP UanBdLI SlHoEnRdSon� NEW YORK The University of Chicago Press, Chicago 60637 The University of Chicago Press, Ltd., London © 2004, 2019 by Alex Kotlowitz All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission, except in the case of brief quotations in critical articles and reviews. For more information, contact the University of Chicago Press, 1427 E. 60th St., Chicago, IL 60637. The University of Chicago Press edition, 2019. Printed in the United States of America 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 1 2 3 4 5 ISBN-13: 978-0-226-61901-9 (paper) ISBN-13: 978-0-226-61915-6 (e-book) DOI: https://doi.org/10.7208/chicago/9780226619156.001.0001 An earlier edition was published by Crown Publishing. Any questions or concerns concerning permissions should be directed to the Permissions Department at the University of Chicago Press, Chicago, IL. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Kotlowitz, Alex, author. Title: Never a city so real : a walk in Chicago / Alex Kotlowitz ; with a new afterword. Other titles: Chicago visions + revisions. Description: Chicago ; London : The University of Chicago Press, 2019. | Series: Chicago visions and revisions Identifiers: LCCN 2018049443 | ISBN 9780226619019 (pbk. : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780226619156 (e-book) Subjects: LCSH: Chicago (Ill.)—Description and travel. | Chicago (Ill.)— Social life and customs. | Chicago (Ill.)—Biography. Classification: LCC F548.3 .K68 2019 | DDC 917.73/1104—dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018049443 This paper meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 ∞ (Permanence of Paper). For Mattie and Lucas Contents Contents Never a City So Real 111 Oil Can Eddie 1255 Millie and Brenda 4399 Give Them What They Want 6588 26th Street 7866 It Takes All Kinds 8988 Inside Out 110199 GT’s Diner 113400 Isn’t That the Corniche? 114511 Afterword 149 Acknowledgments 159 acknowledgments 156 Never a City So Real M y father-in-law,Jack Woltjen,sold euca- lyptus oil. He hawked it in two-ounce bottles at flea markets and county fairs. He took orders over the phone and then the Internet, and convinced local health stores to carry it. And he handed out samples to friends and strangers alike,including to his neighbors and the UPS man. Jack named the oil, which was extracted from an Australian eucalyptus tree, V-Vax, derived from the Latin word vivax,which means tenacious for life.He believed it soothed bee stings and burns,that it cured everything from the common cold to kidney stones;he was also convinced that it helped slow the progress of AIDS. A confident, easygoing man who rarely got flustered, Jack could—and did—persuade almost everyone he met of V-Vax’s curative properties. My wife, to this day, uses it for cold sores. Be- cause the medicinal oil would eat through plastic,Jack had [[ 111 ]]