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Syrian Refugees: Flight Into the Unknown MARCH 2015 THE C L I M AT E C H A N G E D O E S N O T E X I S T WAR E V O L U T I O N N E V E R H A P P E N E D T H E M O O N L A N D I N G W A S FA K E ON V A C C I N AT I O N S C A N L E A D T O A U T I S M G E N E T I C A L LY M O D I F I E D F O O D I S E V I L SCIENCE A WORKER ADJUSTS A DIORAMA OF A MOON LANDING AT THE KENNEDY SPACE CENTER MARCH 2015 VOL. 227 • NO. 3 A 12-year-old Syrian girl holds her weeks-old sister amid the tents of a camp in Nizip, Turkey, that is home to some 11,000 refugees. 48 Fleeing Terror, Finding Refuge During his Out of Eden Walk, the author encounters “a vast panorama of mass homelessness”—throngs of desperate refugees escaping war-torn Syria. By Paul Salopek Photographs by John Stanmeyer 30 72 8 8 The Age of Disbelief Luminous Life Two Cities, Two Europes It’s a phenomenon as old as More than four-fifths of Earth’s The euro crisis cast two world Galileo. Scientists state truths organisms known to make light capitals in opposing roles—Berlin and offer evidence, yet many live in the ocean. Their glowing the lender, Athens the borrower— of us remain unconvinced. existence has perks and pitfalls. with each resenting the other. By Joel Achenbach By Olivia Judson By Adam Nicolson Photographs by Richard Barnes Photographs by David Liittschwager Photographs by Gerd Ludwig and Alex Majoli 122 Proof | End of the Earth On the Cover U.S. moon landings: real, or fabricated like this exhibit at One man embraces the “polished white Florida’s Kennedy Space Center? Whether astronauts walked on the moon emptiness” of the Greenland ice sheet. is one topic among science doubters. Photograph by Richard Barnes By Murray Fredericks Corrections and Clarifications Go to ngm.com/more. OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY FROM THE EDITOR Syrian Refugees The Refugee’s Voice Botol lives in Şanlıurfa, a dusty town in southern Turkey that is the reputed birthplace of Abraham. Urfa, as it is known, had been famed for drawing thousands of religious pilgrims to the cave where the prophet was suppos- edly born. Now the town is filled with 150,000 people who, like Botol, are seeking salvation of a different sort. Botol is from Syria. Her husband fought against the Bashar al Assad regime in that country’s ongoing civil war. More than a year ago he disap- peared. Maybe the government arrested him, she says. Maybe it was the Islamic State (IS) militants. She believes he is dead. She fears for her children back home, especially her eldest son, 19. “They are cutting heads in the streets,” she said recently, through a translator. This is why Botol and about a million and a half other Syr- ian refugees have scattered across Turkey, fleeing the horrors of a bloody war and IS terrorists. As I write this, more people surge across the border every day and are crammed into refugee camps and Turkish cities, where their growing numbers cause resent- ment and unease among locals. “There is no Syria anymore,” Botol said. “No husband, no house.” She will stay here. “Safety and security are most important.” She shares three spot- less rooms with 15 other Syrian refugees, seven of them children. There is no furniture. Mattresses and rugs serve as seats. The kitchen consists of a sink, a hot plate, and a large A Syrian family electric pan to make flatbread. We retreated there to talk because Botol, find shelter at out of modesty, would not speak in front of my colleague, Paul Salopek. an abandoned gas station in Paul is on a seven-year journey on foot. He literally walked smack into this Suruç, Turkey. humanitarian crisis. Turkey has been so flooded by Syrian refugees that he They fled and photographer John Stanmeyer stopped to chronicle the diaspora for Islamic State this issue. militants. Botol won’t talk to Paul, but the other women in the house—Aklas, Reem, and Hella—will. Their words spill out in a chaos of conflicting emotions, unimaginable losses, and palpable relief. Botol speaks for them all. “Thank God I am here,” she said. “Syria is not a good place anymore. But this is an unbearable life. Very difficult. Very hard. And it won’t get better, because once you lose something, you can’t get it back.’’ There were 51 million forcibly displaced people around the world in 2013, a UN report says—the largest number since the end of World War II. They are, like Botol, refugees of conflict. It is important that we hear their stories. Susan Goldberg, Editor in Chief PHOTO: JOHN STANMEYER chief content officer Chris Johns president and ceo Gary E. Knell editor in chief Susan Goldberg IInllsupmirien a stcei e mncede iaa:n dD eecxplalno rMatoioonre: T erry D. Garcia managing editor: David Brindley. executive editor environment: Dennis R. Dimick. Teach education: Melina Gerosa Bellows director of photography: Sarah Leen. executive editor news and features: David Lindsey. executive management executive editor special projects: Bill Marr. executive editor science: Jamie Shreeve. executive legal and international publishing: Terry Adamson editor cartography, art and graphics: Kaitlin M. Yarnall chief of staff: Tara Bunch nZKBHweaorraiwcaicrttknsheigo r/,C afwsRenl:aio at CzrStbk.uahe erHrerodteao lisKit,nw ouDedarn airsAgzdn:lii eg,itPe xa,Jla alaGSt nnrntliedoecene inwaJnre, .s E ,ODL dDdeoemiaernlan,eo nB CcnVdetdae,ol sttrOh,gr, yJa:lEi vonDNreeiokaerl,a nw PKA EamG.. nyBRialnggon.ee ou,W.l fh rCfwn.ai lhelrsuiar,ihpti msJoett,rrris. n,Pst, a :C-eC fJtNhaeoeiutrprrh en GmeBme rwzrdiyno,ii n erwBL, e anZeJcu,ruo tlriRconhako,n r Peb C:Hr aeMmhrorkrtaaei esDrnftrgf,i.ern aaRlce,rp oea WeDntc rteheG, rnleCl.i’d lbA yuynm ttihonirgae , TGish eaeo g gNlroaabtpiaohln incao lS nopcroiefitty ccntobaooogple mnaesrrtnmtaedtuutn dinaotoiin:ofnc d Cssat t::rhd iBoTuirvirnssreaost rcJoe:s ioeekBitsh eyeAn :tR. st Ty Wu hnHoinnumebdtiagstesole nAr . Sabló Gorney, Peter Hessler, Jennifer S. Holland, Mark Jenkins, Peter Miller, David Quammen. special membership chairman: John Fahey investigations: Bryan Christy. administration: Ashleigh N. DeLuca, Becky Little organization. We Dawn L. Arnall, Wanda M. Austin, Michael R. EpeMMKLRdhyleoiicizncotnwPanhotjibee oa rJYlaeegslo,akt:l r hhm J.NaK nadKpaiakscihggrtoehihysui not yRtca,,l ds hluMPS.e it .iahapoms ruuetdraaialrtgig effnNyohif n Qtri (dcgdNpsuik:h, ra maloEeEetrautncdlrenoir,tewan agoCrla,ag rr Ho rJeaS:drrep isyK h:shSt eesRoeEavirnrleimiceysz G)hiW:aku, abReoeKerie,ledgu,n t JbserhEdte,er ev. 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Knell Gus Platis, Alexander Stegmaier, John Tomanio, Jason Treat, Matthew Twombly. senior design vice chairman: Patrick F. Noonan editors: John Baxter, Elaine H. Bradley, Hannah Tak. researcher: Kelsey Nowakowski. graphic Brendan P. Bechtel, Jack Dangermond, John design specialists: Scott Burkhard, Betty Clayman-DeAtley, Emily M Eng, Lauren E. James, Fahey, Gilbert M. Grosvenor, Marillyn Hewson, Sandi Owatverot-Nuzzo, Daniela Santamarina. administration: Cinde Reichard Charles O. Holliday, Jr., Lyle Logan, Julie A. McGee, William K. Reilly, Anthony A. Williams ccooppyy /erdeistoearrs:c hK itdrye pKurtayu smea, nCaignidnyg L eeditintoerr, :M Aamryy BKeotlhc zOaekl.k reerss-eKaerecgha dni,r Leecatnonre: ASluiclleiv San. .J ones. international council of advisors researchers: Christy Ullrich Barcus, Nora Gallagher, David A. Lande, Taryn L. Salinas, Heidi Darlene T. Anderson, Michael S. Anderson, Sarah Schultz, Brad Scriber, Elizabeth Snodgrass. production: Sandra Dane. administration: Argyropoulos, Dawn L. Arnall, Lucy and Henry Jacqueline Rowe Billingsley, Richard C. Blum, Sheila and Michael Bonsignore, Diane and Hal Brierley, Pete Briger, Pat administration assistant to chief content officer: Karen Dufort Sligh. assistant to editor in and Keith Campbell, Jean and Steve Case, Alice chief: Lindsay N. Smith. scheduling: Carol L. Dumont. finance: Nikisha Long; Laura Flanagan, and David Court, Barbara and Steve Durham, Emily Tye. pre-production: Cole Ingraham Roger A. Enrico, Juliet C. Folger, Michael J. Fourticq, Warren H. Haruki, Astrid and Per communications vice presidents: Beth Foster, Mary Jeanne Jacobsen; Anna Kukelhaus Dynan. Heidenreich, Joan and David Hill, Lyda Hill, national geographic creative senior vice president: Maura A. Mulvihill; Betty Behnke, Mimi David H. Koch, Iara Lee, Deborah M. Lehr, Sven Dornack, Alice Keating, William D. Perry. library director: Barbara Penfold Ferry; Elaine Lindblad, Juli and Tom Lindquist, Jho Low, Bruce Donnelly, Margaret V. Turqman. publishing systems vice president: Dave E. Smith. senior Ludwig, Claudia Madrazo de Hernández, Anar project manager: Gina L. Cicotello. systems administrators: Patrick Twomey; Robert Giroux, Mammadov, David P. Margulies, Pamela Mars Casey Jensen Wright, Randall Mays, Edith McBean, Susan and pTrhoodmuacst iJo.n C srearigv;i cNeesa ls Eendiwora rvdisc,e J parmeessid Pe.n Fta: yP, hGillriepg Lo.r yS cWh.l oLsusceer., iAmnang iMnga rvieic Pe eplrisehs,i dSetnetp:h en L. CMroagiga MIIIc, CMaawrk, MC.e Mngo oMrien,g Pfeeia, rMl aanryd aSnedy mGroeugro ry M. RRadoevibceirhntesirsotinsn..g dq piusratolrdiitubycu tttiieoocnnh: nvKiiccriaesl tp indr ierSseeicdmteonertn::i uMCkliacyhtaoenl RSw. Baurrr. nbeusstionne;s Ms imcahgaaezl iGne. Ldiarpepctino,r W: Gilliraemg SDt.o rer. MPRSiaoloingsstkika,i o,nH wJ,u rMi.gt,z oaJ, reTSka ihmPnonronuitegzh a,ay nJ nSsidllk. aiTN,n oGadmsa hR yR,li ecuC htaahanreryddrlf oEDSodi.d rwPdeha,m irVldaipicn sPt,,.o LCreiarka higa Singh, Jessica and Richard Sneider, Thomas Toomey, Donna and Garry Weber, Angie and Leo digital general manager Keith Jenkins Wells, Judith and Stephen Wertheimer, Kathy J. dCNioigcniotsaletla Wnpcueebr blMiescihllkein.r .gp o hudotitgroiet eaadcli htco odrnisrt:e eMcnttao lldroi:rr yDe Bcatveoindre :Bd Jircaetuf,f nrSe.h yse eKrnrayiot zLr.. pdBhigrouittkoab lea dpcrihtoeodrr, usJ:ca Ctnioonban uDdrinor teDsccuthkokerah:la , rt, WWJeoiflfllirsaetmye nsMc a.r onZfdet, l DlBo. uWglua sa nCda rElsritco nL,a Trsraocny, CR.la ra Wu Tsai, Marie McGrory. your shot managing editor: Monica C. Corcoran. photo producers: Alexa research and exploration committee Keefe, Jeanne M. Modderman. designers: Kevin DiCesare, Bethany Powell, Anna Scalamogna, chairman: Peter H. Raven JCKLmauaoosnnrmmenanbg,i naesSe r,pD :JW eiTo nRrhicgisoneghm riK n DaMos,o,n i lErlVdssmiiaestopyi,l .y ,A Z cJSnaoehgronkeieronnd ivMfkieinc.r ca.v PtMiwdohueerebor:rp sJpphoorrynoeo, .yddS euuWhdccaieoetnrorlnfssrko::ii al nlJW l a Ssinlale enrHyvda iAeclicrdesska,:s m H,N sJaa,en nKfsfc aHyWt eeGe rAiutsrpneicdt.ko rd,ni eigJ;s aiH,t saAeolam npt hyrKe oBurd ruButiccsrca,t iidN,o yCni,c hkr is vPKJNioaceahueiot nhlm csA hCio. a EnlBair.,r amkPJkaeoieen,n rr:,Jac J.Kte hoE,a ahmJmnne ma rBMelje.imt. t LtSFy oDr .sAa uBon.f ascfSyw,i,s a JaCbo,la ohCrfnofo, l O lMiPn’. Lo AHon.aui cCrgadhh eLalinn.p ,,m Kairnk, Smith, Thomas B. Smith, Wirt H. Wills iFnotredr.n partoiodnuaclt ieodni:t iSohnasr odne pJuatcyo bedsitorial director: Darren Smith. photographic liaison: Laura L. eRxopbleorrte Bras-llianr-dr,e Lseidee nRc. eBerger, James Cameron, Sylvia Earle, J. Michael Fay, Beverly Joubert, editors arabic: Alsaad Omar Almenhaly. azerbaijan: Seymur Teymurov. brazil: Angélica Dereck Joubert, Louise Leakey, Meave Leakey, Santa Cruz. bulgaria: Krassimir Drumev. china: Bin Wang. croatia: Hrvoje Prćić. czechia: Enric Sala, Spencer Wells VThDanomueraimtgnephngrháeaianšcrur ealTdy :auR:. n FrTagedeazečsrm.oen /irkbatá.gaens lleid ayVgsa::iti t uLGoMramenoayv:i.n raa Aciz:nno aáE d rBleCrtia kuzAa:k t tVakiNt rhaPilsiculneobhzeeueiiost.fr se..gg arljee laauVnrtp.e.m v anfnainaakon:r:a ry sStLd:rih ia:inF cimBgdl oecaaaro obinaL ua.nOi ekni nptG tsNdirņlueoiikakesnk.ass eh.:l.s aikKgtihaohra: ruerB eDeeaanacindh :eiGr ia :SaK :umC uaFnnhsirn.-erp .oifd sipr kteKooa rNalniskasa caZinmmesed: .r .J: Je liaMefsaonartassnair.one- tny Plna:ie asr .r e fDHLPeooaolvsnglet oaeBjownl,uy, s ,ePC tGatonurreele grSy, aMSJloaeasparksneohk Gla,s leJkl,roi ,rS eiMtaly ,rSa aFtahtrri eatPodsar reKirkc,l uaBHmkai,e, rb StToeahnrnot ,dSm Zreaaea sbv e r Wojciechowska. portugal: Gonçalo Pereira. romania: Catalin Gruia. russia: Alexander Grek. treasurer: Barbara J. Constantz serbia: Igor Rill. slovenia: Marija Javornik. spain: Josep Cabello. taiwan: Yungshih Lee. finance: Michael Ulica thailand: Kowit Phadungruangkij. turkey: Nesibe Bat. ukraine: Olga Valchyshen development: Bill Warren technology: Jonathan Young partnerships 161 Sixth Avenue, New York, NY, 10013; Phone: 212-610-5500; Fax: 212-741-0463 executive vice president and worldwide publisher: Claudia Malley. vice president marketing: ngsp, inc. board of directors JCeanmifeprb Belel.r mcoarnp.o irnatteer npaatritonnearls: hCiphsa: rTliaem Amttye nAbborarohuagmh. .b audsvineretsiss ianngd: Ropoebreartti oAnms:b eMrgar, gJaorhent chairman and president: Kevin J. Maroni Schmidt David Court, Gary E. Knell executive vice president: Terrence Day. senior vice president consumer and member marketing: national geographic channels Ldiirze Sctaoffrosr:d A. nvincee Bpraerksiedre (nRtesn: eJwohanls )M, RaiccKhaertdha Bnr o(Nwonrt h(N Aemw eBriucsai)n, eJsosh)n A. Seeley (International). ccehoai:r Cmoanu:r tDenaeviyd MHoillnroe nat geo wild evp and general manager: Geoff Daniels national geographic channels international ceo: Ward Platt evp international content: Hamish Mykura national geographic • March 2015 “Life From Scratch is an unconventional love story . . . Be prepared to be changed as you experience Sasha’s journey for yourself.” —Chris Guillebeau, Author of The Happiness of Pursuit It was a culinary journey like no other: Over the course of 195 weeks, food writer and blogger Sasha Martin set out to cook—and eat—a meal from every country in the world. As cooking unlocked the memories of her rough- and-tumble childhood and the loss and heartbreak that came with it, Martin became more determined than ever to find peace and elevate her life through the prism of food and world cultures. From the tiny, makeshift kitchen of her eccentric, creative mother to a string of foster homes to the house from which she launches her own cooking adventure, Martin’s heartfelt, brutally honest memoir reveals the power of cooking to bond, to empower, and to heal—and celebrates the simple truth that happiness is created from within. HUNGRY FOR MORE? Visit sashamartin.com/book, and download a Life from Scratch reader’s guide, author Q&A, and more! “Poignant, heartwarming, and generously filled with delicious recipes.”—The Kirkus Review “. . . there is plenty here to engross memoir lovers.” —Publishers Weekly AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS AND E-BOOKS ARE SOLD and at nationalgeographic.com/books © 2015 National Geographic Society Like us on Facebook: Nat Geo Books Follow us on Twitter: @NatGeoBooks 3 Questions nationalgeographic.com/3Q W  hy National Geographic Is a Family Affair When Gilbert M. Grosvenor retired from the board of trustees of the National Geographic Society on June 21, 2014—60 years to the day after he started working here—he left an organization built by five generations of his family. (His daughter, obstetrician Alexandra Grosvenor Eller, continues the tradition: She was elected to the National Geo- graphic board in 2009.) As the editor in chief of the magazine, GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL (1822-1897) (1847-1922) A lawyer and financier, he helped Born in Edinburgh, fund Alexander Graham Bell’s Scotland, the inventor research, which eventually led to had an early interest in the invention of the telephone. teaching the deaf. JANUARY 1888 1870 Hubbard is among the founders Immigrates to Ontario, Canada. of the National Geographic Though he spent much of Society (NGS) and is named its his time in Washington, D.C., first president. Bell kept lifelong ties to Nova Scotia. 1876 Awarded the patent for the telephone 1877 Marries Mabel Hubbard, daughter of Gardiner Greene Hubbard 1898 Becomes president of National Geographic Society after death of Gardiner Greene Hubbard president of the Society, and then chairman of the Your geography education foundation board, Grosvenor has helped broaden National essentially restored the study of geography Geographic’s reach through children’s publications, to the American classroom. Why is local-language editions of the magazines and books, geography so important? television, and geography education. Geography is an essential part of STEM [science, technology, engineering, and mathematics] educa- You studied premed at Yale. What made tion. We need to do better with that. To understand you change course and come to work at the environmental issues and the dynamics of Earth National Geographic Society? you have to understand geography. Why is it that Between my junior and senior years I went a bottle released off the coast of Florida ends up in to the Netherlands on a summer program to Ireland? That’s the Gulf Stream at work. What about rebuild dikes washed out by the great flood of 1953. global warming, the dramatic shift north of flora I photographed and co-authored a story that was and fauna, and the fact that Canada will become the published in the magazine. Although I’m not sure breadbasket of North America? Patterns of immi- I realized it at the time, it changed my life. I discov- gration are also all about geography. ered the power of journalism. And that’s what we are all about—recording those chronicles of Your advice to successors? planet Earth. Always do what we do best, not what others do. GILBERT HOVEY GROSVENOR MELVILLE BELL GROSVENOR GILBERT MELVILLE (1875-1966) (1901-1982) GROSVENOR He pioneered the use of Son of Gilbert H. Grosvenor, Born in 1931, the son of photography in the magazine he brought Louis Leakey, Melville Bell Grosvenor and built NGS membership Jacques Cousteau, and increased NGS membership to more than two million. Jane Goodall to NGS. to nearly 11 million. 1899 1924 1954 1980 Hired as the National Geo- Starts work at National Graduates from Yale, joins Resigns as editor, elected graphic Society’s first employee Geographic a year after National Geographic staff president of NGS graduating from the U.S. 1900 Naval Academy. Shows a 1970 1985 Marries Elsie May Bell, daugh- talent for photography. Becomes editor of National Kicks off his geography educa- ter of Alexander Graham Bell Geographic tion program, budgeting four 1930 million dollars to improve Ameri- 1903 Takes first-ever color aerial 1974 can kids’ geographic literacy Named editor of National photograph Starts World magazine (now Geographic magazine NG Kids) 1996 1957 Retires as president of NGS 1920 Elected president of National Elected president of Geographic Society and editor 2004 National Geographic Society of National Geographic Receives Presidential Medal of Freedom 1954 1967 Resigns as both president and Retires as editor of National 2010 editor, becomes chairman of Geographic, becomes Named chairman emeritus of the board chairman of the board the NGS board PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): REBECCA HALE, NGM STAFF; KETS KEMETHY STUDIO; HARRIS & EWING; HARRIS & EWING; GILBERT H. GROSVENOR; JAMES L. STANFIELD (ALL NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE) EXPLORE 1 Wild Things 4 3 2 6 5 8 7 Saving Since the early 1980s ichthyologists J. R. Shute and Pat Rakes have splashed through southeastern U.S. creeks and rivers hunting for tiny survivors. Because of chemical pollution, silt, and habitat loss, many species of small, native fish— Stream some found in only a single creek—have nearly vanished from river systems. Today the nonprofit the men founded, Conservation Fisheries, Inc., works in ten Fish states to preserve and propagate about 65 rare species, some shown here. From a few fish and eggs, CFI raises hatchlings of threatened species, then places them in the species’ streams of origin or other hospitable waters. For ex- ample: To stem the loss of spotfin chub (18, right) in the Tennessee River system, CFI spent years introducing hatchlings, which are now reproducing in the wild. CFI is keeping a few rare fish “in an ark population, because there’s no suit- able place to put them back,” Shute says. CFI’s last chucky madtom (1) died in 9 2008, and since then, the tiny catfish have not been seen in the wild. “We hope they’re still out there,” he says, “but it’s not looking good.” —Patricia Edmonds 1. Chucky madtom 2. Blotchside logperch 3. Spring pygmy sunfish 4. Relict darter 5. Cumberland darter 6. Sicklefin redhorse 7. Conasauga logperch 8. Spotted darter 9. Diamond darter 10. Cape Fear shiner 11. Blackside dace 12. Ashy darter 13. Kentucky arrow darter 14. Roanoke logperch 15. Wounded darter 16. Barrens topminnow 17. Duskytail darter 18. Spotfin chub 19. Pearl darter 20. Slackwater darter All fish are shown to scale. PHOTOS: JOEL SARTORE

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