Mountaineers: Great tales of bravery and conquest PDF
Preview Mountaineers: Great tales of bravery and conquest
MOUNTAINEERS 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 1 10/12/18 7:52 PM t h e a lp i n e c lu b MOUNTAINEERS great tales of bravery and conquest royal geographical societ y 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 2 10/12/18 7:52 PM t h e a lp i n e c lu b MOUNTAINEERS great tales of bravery and conquest royal geographical societ y 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 3 10/12/18 7:52 PM Senior Editor Bob Bridle Senior Art Editor Sharon Spencer Jacket Designer Silke Spingies Production Editor Tony Phipps Production Controller Erika Pepe Managing Editor Stephanie Farrow Managing Art Editor Lee Griffiths Produced for Dorling Kindersley by TALL TREE LTD Managing Editor David John Senior Editor Rob Colson Senior Designer Ben Ruocco Editor Debra Wolter Designers Peter Laws, Malcolm Parchment Picture Researcher Louise Thomas Written by Ed Douglas Additional writing Richard Gilbert, Philip Parker, Alasdair Macleod Published by Dorling Kindersley Ltd in association with the Royal Geographical Society (with IBG) and The Alpine Club First published in Great Britain in 2011 This edition published in 2015 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A Penguin Random House Company 15 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 001–179532–May/2015 Copyright © 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-2412-9880-0 Colour reproduction by Media Development Printing Ltd, UK Printed and bound by Star Standard, Singapore A WORLD OF IDEAS: SEE ALL THERE IS TO KNOW www.dk.com 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 4 10/12/18 7:52 PM 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 5 10/12/18 7:52 PM CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 8 james hutton 56 THE GOLDEN AGE MOUNTAINEERING OF ALPINISM 112 THE EARLY INNOVATIONS: ICE AXE 58 MOUNTAINEERS 10 horace-bénédict INTRODUCTION 114 de saussure 60 INTRODUCTION 12 franz josef hugi 64 A FASHION FOR CLIMBING 116 james david forbes 66 alfred wills 118 CLIMBING FOR SURVIVAL 14 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT: john ball 120 ötzi the iceman 16 MONT BLANC 68 christian almer 122 hannibal 20 alexander von humboldt 70 MOUNTAIN LIVES: ALPINE GUIDES 124 louis agassiz 72 melchior anderegg 126 WHAT MOUNTAINS MEAN 22 MOUNTAIN LIVES: john tyndall 128 fa xian the monk 24 ICE MUMMIES 74 leslie stephen 134 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT: KILIMANJARO 26 THE CULTURAL HEIGHTS 76 THE PRICE OF ADVENTURE 136 kukai 28 caspar wolf 78 charles hudson 138 MOUNTAIN LIVES: PUEBLO PEOPLE 32 gabriel and mathias lory 80 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT: j m w turner 82 MATTERHORN 140 MOUNTAINS AND EXPERIENCING THE edward whymper 142 CHRISTIANITY 34 MOUNTAINS: POETRY 84 jean-antoine carrel 146 petrarch 36 john ruskin 86 EXPERIENCING THE MOUNTAINS: antoine de ville 38 SPREADING THE WORD 148 josias simmler 40 THE FIRST SUMMITEERS 90 MOUNTAINEERING william windham 92 “AN EASY DAY FOR A LADY” 150 INNOVATIONS: ROPE 42 paccard and balmat 94 walker and brevoort 152 conrad gesner 44 MOUNTAINEERING elizabeth le blond 156 john evelyn 46 INNOVATIONS: CRAMPONS 98 freda du faur 158 paradis and d'angeville 100 the meyer family 102 BIRTH OF CLIMBING FOR gottlieb studer 104 MODERN ALPINISM 160 SCIENCE AND ART 48 placidus à spescha 106 adolphus moore 162 peter carl thurwieser 108 clinton dent 164 INTRODUCTION 50 albert smith 110 alexander burgener 166 albert frederick mummery 168 A NEW FRONTIER 52 zsigmondy brothers 172 johann jakob scheuchzer 54 eugen guido lammer 174 paul preuss 176 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 6 10/12/18 7:52 PM BEYOND george mallory 228 THE UNWRITTEN RULES 294 THE ALPS 178 MOUNTAINEERING walter bonatti 296 INNOVATIONS: OXYGEN GEAR 232 don whillans 298 INTRODUCTION 180 paul bauer 234 chris bonington 300 willo welzenbach 236 yvon chouinard 302 THE GREATER RANGES 182 willy merkl 238 doug scott 304 martin conway 184 abalakov brothers 240 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT: douglas freshfield 186 CERRO TORRE 306 MOUNTAIN LIVES: PUNDITS 190 BACK OF AN ENVELOPE 242 reinhold messner 308 fanny bullock workman 192 tilman and shipton 244 jerzy kukuczka 312 alexander kellas 194 charles houston 248 oscar eckenstein 196 fritz wiessner 250 WOMEN MOUNTAINEERS 314 the duke of the abruzzi 198 EXPERIENCING THE MOUNTAINS: wanda rutkiewicz 316 EXPERIENCING THE MOUNTAINS: FILM-MAKING 252 catherine destivelle 318 PHOTOGRAPHY 200 kitty calhoun 322 THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERING CLIMBING IN THE GOLDEN AGE 254 INNOVATIONS: PROTECTION 324 NEW WORLD 202 herzog and lachenal 256 conrad kain 204 hermann buhl 258 FAST AND LIGHT 326 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT: DENALI 206 kurt diemberger 260 wojciech kurtyka 328 matthias zurbriggen 208 MOUNTAIN LIVES: SHERPAS 262 alex macintyre 330 edmund hillary 264 andrej stremfelj 332 ALPINISM IN JAPAN 210 tenzing norgay 266 erhard loretan 334 aritsune “yuko” maki 212 compagnoni and lacedelli 270 EXPERIENCING THE MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINEERING band and brown 272 CLIMBING BESTSELLERS 336 INNOVATIONS: MAPPING 214 couzy and terray 276 mick fowler 338 hornbein and unsoeld 278 thomas and alex huber 340 rolando garibotti 342 SLAYING steve house 344 THE GIANTS 216 THE AGE OF the giri-giri boys 346 MOUNTAIN LIVES: EXTREMES 282 INTRODUCTION 218 PROFESSIONAL CLIMBERS 348 INTRODUCTION 284 THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH 220 THE NORTH FACES 286 MOUNTAIN DIRECTORY 350 francis younghusband 222 emilio comici 288 somervell and norton 224 anderl heckmair 290 INDEX 352 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT: EVEREST 226 riccardo cassin 292 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 358 001-007_Prelims_Mountaineers_UK.indd 7 10/12/18 7:52 PM INTRODUCTION C limbing mountains serves no Swiss naturalist Conrad Gesner defying obvious purpose. The risk of life local superstitions to ascend Mount Pilatus. and limb to summit a great peak is The accounts of Gesner and others of their often for no better reason than “because it is experiences, and of the delight they found in there”, as George Mallory famously put it. the mountains themselves, inspired others to Yet in pursuit of such unformulated goals follow their lead, and by the middle of the mountaineers have pushed themselves to the 19th century, alpinism was enjoying its “Golden very limits of the physical – to achieve ever Age”. Gentlemen climbers, particularly from higher, more difficult, or simply more beautiful Britain, raced to claim the first ascents of the climbs. It is not surprising, therefore, that their highest peaks in the Alps, and the modern exploits have captivated a wide audience. sport of mountaineering was born. In the freedom of the mountains, women also For millennia the world’s mountain ranges began climbing, feeling less restricted by were largely devoid of people. Homes to the constraints of society. gods and monsters, mountains were seen as dangerous, inhospitable, and mysterious, The sport’s first disaster was not long in avoided by all but a few traders or religious coming, as Edward Whymper’s first ascent sects in search of solitude. In Europe, popular of the Matterhorn in 1865 turned to tragedy fear of the mountains was beginning to change when four of his party died on the descent. by the Renaissance, with climbers such as Thus began a debate that continues today. 008-009_Mountaineers_Intro.indd 8 10/12/18 7:06 PM
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