Moscow & St. Petersburg

355 Pages·2012·50.684 MB·English

by  Charlton, Angela

Moscow &
St. Petersburg
4th Edition
by Angela Charlton
Published by:
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
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Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
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5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
List of Maps viii
1 
THE BEST OF MOSCOW &
ST. PETERSBURG 1
Most Memorable Russian Best Views 7
Experiences 2 Best Architecture 7
Best Luxury Hotels 3 Best Museums 8
Best Affordable Accommodations 6 Best Gifts to Bring Home 9
Best Dining Experiences 6 Best Oddball Attractions 9
2 
MOSCOW & ST. PETERSBURG
IN DEPTH 10
Russia Today 10 THE RUSSIAN SILVER SCREEN 26
CHECHNYA 12 AIR, EARTH, FIRE . . . VODKA? 30
Looking Back: Russian History 12 Eating & Drinking 30
DATELINE 14 A FOODIE SHORTLIST 32
RASPUTIN: MYSTIC, SINNER, HEALER, When to Go 33
OR SPY? 19
THE BIGGEST PARTY OF THE YEAR 34
SELECTED LIST OF RUSSIAN LEADERS 20
CALENDAR OF EVENTS 35
Art & Architecture 21
Responsible Travel 36
THE GREAT RUSSIAN SPYING TRADITION 23
BUTTER WEEK 37
STALIN’S SEVEN SISTERS 24
Tours 38
Russia in Pop Culture 25
3 
MOSCOW NEIGHBORHOODS &
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 40
NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 41 THE BEST OF MOSCOW IN 2 DAYS 49
THE BEST OF MOSCOW IN 1 DAY 46 THE BEST OF MOSCOW IN 3 DAYS 51
4 
WHERE TO STAY IN MOSCOW 55
What You’ll Really Pay 55 Arbat 67
Best Moscow Hotel Bets 55 South of Moscow River 68
Around the Kremlin & Outside the Garden Ring 70
Red Square 57 Near the Airport 73
FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTELS 60 CURRENCY CONFUSION AT
Tverskaya & Environs 61 YOUR HOTEL 74
FOREIGNER TAX 62 Practical Information 74
Petrovka & the Ukrainian
Quarter 63
5 
WHERE TO EAT IN MOSCOW 77
Best Moscow Dining Bets 77 Arbat 89
Around the Kremlin & South of Moscow River 91
Red Square 78 Outside The Garden Ring 92
Tverskaya & Environs 83 Practical Information  94
FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 86
Restaurants by Cuisine 95
Petrovka & the Ukrainian
Quarter 87
6 
EXPLORING MOSCOW 98
The Kremlin  99 Parks & Gardens 115
CROWN OF MONOMAKH (SHAPKA Aristocratic Estates 117
MONOMAKHA) 100
Literary Moscow 118
Around Red Square 103
Especially for Kids 119
Cathedrals, Monasteries &
Organized Tours 120
Convents 107
Outdoor Pursuits 121
STAROOBRYADTSY: OLD BELIEVERS 108
BANYA BLISS 123
Soviet Sights 109
Spectator Sports 123
CONQUERING THE COSMOS 113
WALKING TOUR: HISTORIC MOSCOW 125
Major Museums 114
7 
SHOPPING IN MOSCOW 130
The Shopping Scene 130 Shopping A to Z 136
RUSSIAN ORTHODOX ICONS 131 COUTURE A LA RUSSE 139
Great Shopping Areas 131 GORBUSHKA ELECTRONICS MARKET 141
The Shopping Centers 135
8 
MOSCOW AFTER DARK 143
The Performing Arts 143 Gay & Lesbian Nightlife 155
The Club & Music Scene 151 More Entertainment 155
The Bar Scene 154
9 
SIDE TRIPS FROM MOSCOW 158
Sergiev Posad 158 Peredelkino 168
Suzdal & Vladimir 162 DAY EXCURSIONS: THREE SURE BETS 171
Arkhangelskoye 167
10
 ST. PETERSBURG NEIGHBORHOODS &
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 173
THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 173 The Best of St. Petersburg in
The Best of St. Petersburg in 2 Days 181
1 Day 178 The Best of St. Petersburg in
3 Days 184
11
 W HERE TO STAY IN ST. PETERSBURG 187
What You’ll Really Pay 187 Lower Nevsky to Smolny
Best St. Petersburg Hotel Bets 187 Cathedral 196
A CITY OF MINI-HOTELS 188 South of Nevsky 198
Around the Hermitage 189 Vasilevsky Island & the Petrograd
Side 200
FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTELS 193
Near the Airport 201
Upper Nevsky Prospekt 193
LANDING THE BEST ROOM 196 Practical Information 202
12
  WHERE TO EAT IN ST. PETERSBURG 205
Best St. Petersburg Dining Bets 205 Lower Nevsky Prospekt up to
Around Palace Square & the Smolny Cathedral 213
Hermitage 206 South of Nevsky 214
Upper Nevsky Prospekt 207 Vasilevsky Island &
Square of the Arts up to Summer the Petrograd Side 217
Gardens 212 Practical Information 219
FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 212 Restaurants by Cuisine 220
13
  EXPLORING ST. PETERSBURG 222
THE SIEGE OF LENINGRAD 223 Monuments, Memorials &
Hermitage & Environs 223 Squares 237
Around Palace Square 227 Literary St. Petersburg 238
Cathedrals, Monasteries & More 228 Especially for Kids 240
PETER & PAUL FORTRESS (PETROPAVLOVS- Organized Tours 240
KAYA KREPOST) 229 Outdoor Pursuits 241
Major Museums 232 Spectator Sports 242
Parks & Gardens 235 WALKING TOUR: ST. PETERSBURG
ISLAND PURSUITS 236 HIGHLIGHTS 243
14
  SHOPPING IN ST. PETERSBURG 247
The Shopping Scene 247 Shopping Centers 251
BOX THAT UP 250 Shopping A to Z 252
Great Shopping Areas 250
15
  ST. PETERSBURG AFTER DARK 257
The Performing Arts 257 The Bar Scene 265
WHERE TO GO DURING WHITE NIGHTS 258 Gay & Lesbian Nightlife 266
The Club & Music Scene 263 More Entertainment 267
16
  SIDE TRIPS FROM ST. PETERSBURG 268
Peterhof (Petrodvorets)  268 Pavlovsk 275
Tsarskoye Tselo (Pushkin) 272 Kronshtadt 277
THE AMBER ROOM 274 Vyborg 279
17
 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO MOSCOW &
ST. PETERSBURG 282
Getting There: Moscow 282 THE WORLD UNDERGROUND 293
Getting Around Moscow 286 Tips on Accommodations 295
CLOTHING SIZE CONVERSIONS 288 Visas & Customs 297
Getting There: St. Petersburg 290 Health 299
DRAWBRIDGE DILEMMA 292 Fast Facts: Moscow 301
Getting Around St. Petersburg 292 Fast Facts: St. Petersburg 311
18
  USEFUL RUSSIAN TERMS & PHRASES 315
Alphabet 315 Russian Dining Savvy 320
Basic Vocabulary 316
General Index 325
Accommodations—Moscow and Restaurants—Moscow and
environs 337 environs 337
Accommodations—St. Petersburg Restaurants—St. Petersburg and
and environs 337 environs 337
LIST OF MAPS
Russia 4 St. Petersburg Neighborhoods 176
Moscow 42 St. Petersburg in 1 Day 179
Moscow Neighborhoods 44 St. Petersburg in 2 Days 183
Moscow in 1 Day 47 St. Petersburg in 3 Days 185
Moscow in 2 Days 50 Where to Stay in St. Petersburg 190
Moscow in 3 Days 53 St. Petersburg Restaurants 208
Where to Stay in Moscow 58 Exploring St. Petersburg 224
Moscow Restaurants 80 St. Petersburg Metro 226
The Kremlin 101 Exploring St. Peter and Paul Fortress 228
Exploring Moscow 104 Walking Tour: St. Petersburg
Moscow Metro 111 Highlights 245
Walking Tour: Historic Moscow 127 St. Petersburg Shopping 248
Moscow Shopping 132 St. Petersburg Nightlife 260
Moscow Nightlife 146 Side Trips from St. Petersburg 269
Side Trips from Moscow 159 Peterhof (Petrodvorets) 271
Sergiev Posad 161 Tsarskoye Tselo (Pushkin) 273
Suzdal & Vladimir 163 Pavlovsk 276
Peredelkino 169 Kronshtadt 279
St. Petersburg 175