Moscow Revealed

228 Pages·1991·43.169 MB·English

by  John Freeman, Kathleen Berton

MOSCOW
REVEALED
JOHN FREEMAN
</*-.•
TEXT BY KATHLEEN BERTON
-> i -— i1 .
MArchitecOt! i re/STr\\ i iCOW
REVEALED
Moscow, capital of the largest country in
the world, is surely a city of mystery. The
most magnificent of its buildings, the
Kremlin and St. Basil's Cathedral, are
instantly recognizable, yet relatively few
people haveseen the interiorsofthesecele-
brated buildings and even fewer have an
inkling of the multitude ofother architec-
tural jewels hidingbehind thecity'ssomber
public facade. Until the emergence ofglas-
nost, this richness and diversity7 remained
unknown even to Muscovites. Moscow
Revealeddraws back the curtain for the first
time todisclose the hiddencity-the rooms
behind the anonymous doors, the secrets
behind the high walls - and shows us a
world as extraordinary as it is unknown.
This is the fruit ofa unique collabora-
tion; theeyeofcelebrated architectural and
landscape photographerJohn Freeman and
the unrivaled knowledge of Kathleen Ber-
ton, who has made a special study of the
architecture and history of Moscow.
Together they introduce the reader to the
vast and surprising variety of buildings
spread across Moscow: opulent former
tsarist palaces standing next to ordinary
apartment blocks; richly appointed ortho-
dox churches, now undergoing a renais-
sance, set alongside modern constructivist
buildings; the unlikely grandeur ofsubway
stations and public baths; splendidly reno-
vatedhotels; andevenafoodstoresoornate
thatitisa feastfortheeyes,ifnotthepalate.
Moscow Revealed is a fascinating and
enduringportraitofoneoftheworld'smost
important political centers and historical
capitals. Sumptuouslyillustrated infullcol-
or, it is a book to treasure as an insightinto
Russianarchitectural styles, asasouvenirof
a visit, or simply as an object ofbeauty.
MOSCOW REVEALED
ALSO BY JOHN FREEMAN
LONDON REVEALED
A GUIDE TO PHOTOGRAPHING CHILDREN
BRITAIN LONDON IRELAND
•
THE COASTS OF BRITAIN
THE PHOTOGRAPHER'S HANDBOOK
ALSO BY KATHLEEN BERTON
MOSCOW: AN ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY
MOSCOW
REVEALED
JOHN FREEMAN
Willi I I \ I I'.l
KATHLKKN BERTON
ABBEVILLE PRESS PUBLISHERS
New York • London • Paris
Jacket illustrations
Front: IgumnovMansion: thebrilliantpseudo-RussianMainHallandStaircase;MetropoleHotel: amotif.
Back:ChertkovMansion:theplasterworkfireplaceintheWhiteHall.
Illustrationsontitlepage
21AandB: Kuskovo:thegrottodecoratedwithshelldesignscompletedin 1771.
Photographscopyright©1991JohnFreeman
©
Textcopyright 1991 KathleenBerton
Allrightsreservedunderinternationalcopyrightconventions.No
partofthisbookmaybereproducedorutilizedinanyformor
byanymeans,electronicormechanical,includingphotocopying,
recording,orbyanyinformationstorageandretrievalsystem,
withoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher.Inquiries
shouldbeaddressedtoAbbevillePress,488MadisonAvenue,New
York,N.Y. 10022.PrintedandboundinGreatBritain.
Firstedition
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Freeman, John, 1948-
Moscow revealed/photographs byJohn Freeman: text by Kathleen
Berton. !
p. cm.
ISBN 1-55859-215-6
1. Moscow (R.S.F.S.R.) - Description - Views. 2. Historic
buildings - Russian S.F.S.R. - Moscow - Pictorial works. 3. Moscow
(R.S.F.S.R.) - Description. 4. Historic buildings - Russian S.F.S.R. -
Moscow. I. Berton, Kathleen. II. Title.
DK601.5.F74 1991 91-13826
914.7'31204854-dc20 CIP
DesignedbyPeterCampbell
For my children Kane and Luke
John Freeman
For my children Sarah, Tim, Kate and Alice
Kathleen lierton
© © © @ ®
(§)
©
Garden Ring
,J
CONTENTS
Map NOR MOSCOW
6 III 57. IIk l'i rg Mansion I h< Italian
Acknowledgements 8 Embassy) 140
27 The Chemist Shop, 40 Gorky
Introduction 9 58. The Derozhinskaya Mansion
Street 8
Glossary 11 28 TheMoscowArtsTheatre 81 I In Austral:.in Embassy) 147
I 59. TheMelnikovHouse 150
29 Yeliseyev'sFoodHall 8*
30 TheTsentralnyRestaurant 85 60. TheWriters'Union 15 }
31 TheNationalHotel 86 61. ThePushkinMuseum 15 \
62. TheHouseofFriendship 155
THE KREMLIN AND 32 The Exhibition of Economic
KITAI-GOROD Achievements 88 63. TheGlebovHouse 161
64. TheLenin library 165
33 TheInstituteofArtHistory 90
1. TheAssumptionCathedral 16 34 Ostankino 91 65. TheStanislavskyIlouse
66. TheSawaMorozovMansion 168
2. TheArchangelCathedral 18 35 TheMetropoleHotel 98
67. MetroKievskaya 170
3. TheAnnunciationCathedral 19 36 ThcSandunovskySteamBaths 101
68. MetroArbatskaya 172
4. TheFacetedPalace 21 37 The House of Unions
5. TheGreat KremlinPalace 24 (TheNobles'Club) 104 69. TheTchaikovskyConcertHall 172
70. TheMoscowConservatory 174
6. TheTeremPalace 28 38 TheMoskvaRestaurant 107
71. TheBulgakovStaircase 177
7. StBasil'sCathedral 30 39 The Komsomol Theatre
72. MerabandtheSenokosovs 17"
8. TheHouseoftheRomanovBoyars 3344 (TheMerchants'Club) 107
73. YevgenyYevtushenko 178
9. The Church of the Trinity 40 DanielMitlyansky,thesculptor 108
'vNikitnikakh' 39 41 TheChurchofStPimentheGreat 110
10. SlavyanskyBazaarRestaurant 40 42 TheBolshoiTheatre 113 SOUTH MOSCOW
GUM
11. -StateUniversalStore 40 43 The Peter Palace (Zhukov
74. The Igumnov Mansion (The
12. Metro Ploshchad Revolyutsy AirAcademy) 113
FrenchEmbassy) 183
(RevolutionSquare) 43 44 TheSavoyRestaurant 115
75. DimaandLilyaKrasnopevtsev 186
45. MaxBierstein,theartist 116
76. The Kharitonenko Mansion
46. The Confectionery Shop
(TheBritishEmbassy) 189
'Armenia' 118
77. The Church of StJohn the
47. MetroBelorusskaya 118
EAST MOSCOW 48. MetroMayakovskaya 120 Warrior 196
78. The Church of the Consolation
49. MetroChekhovskaya 122
13. ChertkovMansion 4477 ofAllSorrows 197
50. Vera,ValeryandtheChuikovs 124
14. BaryshnikovMansion 5511 79. TheChildren'sMusicalTheatre 199
51. TheOlympicComplex 125
15. ThePerlovTeaHouse 5533 80. Neskuchny Sad (The
52. TheChurchoftheTikhvinVirgin 126
16. TheAlekseiMorozovMansion 5555 AlexandraPalace) 203
53. Lyudmila Osmushina, the
17. TheKazanRailwavStation 57 81. VictorandJenniferLouis 205
18. TheChurchofArchangelGabriel 59 fashiondesigner 128 82. TheNewUniversity 206
19. The Church of St Fyodor 83. ThePalaceofYouth 207
Stratilatus 61 84. AnnaKapitsa 208
20. TheTheatreofHistory 63 85. The Confectionery Shop,
21. Kuskovo 65 WEST MOSCOW 9Pyatnitskaya 211
22. The Medieval Houseofthe 86. MetroNovokuznetskaya 213
Yusupovs 68 54. TheTolstoyHouse 133 87. TheGolitsynHospital 213
23. TheNosovHouse 74 55. The Zakrevsky Mansion 88. TheCycleTrackinKrylatskoe 214
24. MetroKomsomolskaya 74 (TheGreekEmbassy) 134 89. MetroParkKultury 216
25. MetroTaganskaya 76 56. The Ryabushinsky Mansion 90. The Church ofSt Nicholas
26. ElisoVersaladze 77 (TheGorkyMuseum) 137 'vKhamovnikakh' 217
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
A book such as Moscow Revealed owes its realization to Assistance was also liberally extended by the Australian,
many people. In particular many thanks go to Sally Gami- French, Greek and Italian Embassies. We would like to
nara, editorial director of Doubleday, who grasped the idea mention the kindness of the curators at the Ostankino and
and saw it through from an outline to the book before you Kuskovo palaces who allowed us to photograph the
while giving birth to a son along the way. To Broo Doherty museums when they wereclosed to the public. Thecharm of
forher unfailingenthusiasm andcare in editingthetext, and the Tolstoy Museum was enhanced by the kindness of the
to Peter Campbell for his diligence over the design. director, Maxim Gorokhov. The splendours of the Aleksei
John Freeman would like to say a special thank you to Morozov Mansion were revealed to us by the talented
OctaviaHedley-Dent,hisassistantthroughoutthemonthsof architect-restorer,NatalyaSafontseva.Thearchitect,Leonid
shooting in Moscow, for her geniality and dedication that Nenaglyadkin, of the superbly restored Metropole Hotel
madelifetolerableinsometimesdifficultcircumstances. And infected us with his enthusiasm.
to Sue Sharpe for her whole hearted support, who liaised Theauthoritiesofthemanychurchesweapproachedwere
between London and Moscow, ensuringthe smooth proces- unfailingly co-operative in finding a time when we could
sing of film and the supply of such goodies as chocolate photograph - not easy in the conditions of the religious
oranges. revivalandincreasingdemandforbaptismsandmarriagesin
Kathleen Berton is deeply grateful to her patient spouse, addition to the normal services.
Geoffrey Murrell, whose sage advice, based on long experi- A special thank you goes to Helen Womack and her
enceoftheSovietUnion,wasalwaysilluminatingandwhose husband, Kostya Gagarin, Irina Gubinet, Lisa Tucker, and
grasp in her absence of household duties was unexpectedly Ruth and Jonathan Steele. We are also grateful for the
sure. co-operationandhelpofAlexanderBulgakov,LidiaBykovt-
Perhaps more than most undertakings, Moscow Revealed seva, Mikhail Byshkov, Alexander Chernayaev, Vladimir
could nothave been accomplished withoutthe generosity of Dankov, Vladlen Davydov, Ulyana Dmitrievna, Vladimir
Russian and English friends living in the Soviet Union who Dlugach, Lt.-Col. Mikhail Globenko, Tatiana Khinkhis,
provided unstinting assistance. Their constant and generous Konstantin Levykin, Yelena Lukicheva, Alexander Mesh-
supportandhospitalityatatimeofsevereshortageswasalso chersky, Lev and Rika Razgon, Anatoly Sedolets, Galina
amajorfactorin smoothingthepath overthemonthsittook Shchutskaya, Victor Smorodsky, Vladimir Tikhonov,
tocompletethephotography.Weareparticularlygratefulto Arkady Vaksberg, Mark Zakharov, Volodya Zakharov,
Kate Cook-Horujy whose expertise, energy and boundless Boris Zazersky, and thecollective attheTheatreof History.
enthusiasmwerealwaysatourdisposalandwhoseassistance Finally, we were most heartened by the warmth and
and ingenious suggestions did much to make the project a kindness of all the other friends together with the artists,
success. The distinguished and good-humoured Moscow musicians, writers and philosophers who appearin Moscow
historian, Sergei Romanyuk, gave us invaluable advice and Revealed. To all these people and to the many helpful and
proved morethan onceto bean ablephotographicassistant. friendly Muscovites we encountered along the way, we
His wife, Galina, in addition to lavish hospitality, proved would like to express our heartfelt thanks.
adept at finding solutions to tricky problems. Vera Nanivs-
kaya, with her husband, Valery Ivanov, gave freely of their
time and provided vital administrative assistance while re- John Freeman would like to thank the following organiza-
ceiving an endless procession of other visitors. Anton and tions for their assistance and support with the photography
Toma Lavrentiev generously offered much needed accom- for Moscow Revealed:
modation while their children, Dasha and Tima, together
with otherfriends, entertained uswith charm, witand song. KODAK PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY DIVISION for Sup-
Weare alsograteful foraccommodation providedbyGalina plying Kodak Ektachrome film
Kemarskaya and her family. Invaluable support, time and leeds photovisual limited for supplying professional
adviceweregivenbytheBritishAmbassadorandhiswife,Sir photographic equipment
Rodric and Lady Braithwaite. Terry and Grace Garrett, polaroid (uk) limited for supplying Polaroid film
TerrySandell, IanDavies,BridgetFlavell,CarmelPowerand push one (chelsea) limited for all E6 processing
other members of the British Embassy were also unfailingly the studio workshop limited for supplying Sinar
kind and always ready to give help and make suggestions. cameras and Broncolor lighting