Eyewitness TRAVEL MUSEUMS walks restaurants cathedrals • kremlin galleries hotels • • The guides that show you what others only tell you Moscow Area by Area TVERSKKKAAAYYYA TVERSKAYA See pp84–97 Street Finder maps 2, 3, 6, 7 ARBATSKKKAAAYYYA ARBAAATSKAYA See pp68–83 Street Finder maps 2, 6, 7 0 metres 500 0 yards 500 FURTHER AFIELD BEYOND MOSCOW See pp126–45 See pp152–67 REDSQUAREAND KITTTAY GOROD See pp98–113 Street Finder maps 3, 4, 7, 8 REDSQUUUAREAND KITAAAY GOROD KREMLIN KREMLIN See pp52–67 Street Finder maps 2, 3, 6, 7 ZAMOSKVORECHHHHEEEEE ZAMOSKVORECHE See pp114–125 Street Finder maps 6, 7 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL MOSCOW by Toshkolab MMOOSS000011..iinnddddddddddddddd 22222222 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL MOSCOW CHRISTOPHER AND MELANIE RICE www.touristas.clan.su MMMMMMMMMMMMOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSS000022--000033..iinnddddddddddddddddddddddd 77777777 222222277777777///66//0066 77::5533::2288 AAMM CONTENTS HOW TOUSE THISGUIDE6 PROOJECT EDITORR MarcusHardy ARTEDITORR Marisa Renzullo EDITORS Catherine Day, JaneOliver, Lynda Warrington DESIGNERS GillianAndrews, CarolynHewitson, Paul Jackson, Elly King, Nicola Rodway VISUALIZER JoyFitzsimmons MAP CO-ORDINAAATORS Emily Green, David Pugh MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Christopher Rice,Melanie Rice MAPS Maria Donnelly (Colourmap Scanning Ltd) PHOTOGRRRAPHER Demetrio Carrasco Socialist-Realist sculpture of Soviet ILLUSTRRRAAATORS farm workers at the All-Russian Stephen Conlin, Richard Draper, Stephen Gyapay, Exhibition Centre(see p145) Claire Littlejohn, ChrisOrr &Associates Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore INTRODUCING Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China MOSCOW FirstAmerican Edition 1998 07 08 10 9 8 7 6 5 FOURGREAAATDAYSIN Published in theUnited States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, MOSCOW10 Inc., 375Hudson Street,NewYYYork 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007 PUTTINGMOSCOW Copyright 1998, 2007 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ON THEMAP12 AA Penguin Company THEHISTORRRY OF ALLRIGHTSRESERVED UNDERINTERNAAATIONALAND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PPPART OF THISPUBLICAAATION MAY BEREPRODUCED, STOREDIN MOSCOW16 A RETRIEVVVALSYSTEM, ORTRRRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM ORBY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL,PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OROTHERWISEWITHOUT THEPRIORWRITTENPERMISSION OF THECOPYRIGHTOWNER. MOSCOWWTHROUGH Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. THEYEAR32 ACAAATTTALOGINGIN PUBLICAAATION RECORDIS AAAVVVAILABLE FROMTHE LIBRRRARRRY OF CONGRESS. MOSCOWWAAATA GLANCE ISSN1542-1554 36 ISBN-10: 0-75662-438-X ISBN-13: 978-0-75662-438-5 FLOORS AREREFERREDTO THROUGHOUTIN ACCORDANCEWITH EUROPEAN USAGE; IETHE “FIRSTFLOOR” ISTHE FLOORABOVEGROUNDLEVEL. Front cover main image: Domes of the Church of St George The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, The Tsar Bell(see p57),created 80Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. forTsarina Anna, in the Kremlin The Kremlin at night, in all its splendour 22222222277//66//0066 88::1100::2288 AAMM MOSCOW AREA BYAREA THE KREMLIN 52 ARBAAATSKKKAYA 68 TVERSKKKAYA 84 REDSQUARE ANDKITTTAY GOROD 98 Magnificent iconostasis at the Danilovskiy Monastery (see pp136–7) ZAMOSKVORECHE SURRRVIVAL GUIDE 114 MOSCOW STREETFINDER FURTHERAFIELD126 PRRRACTICAL 228 INFORRRMAAATION TWOGUIDED 206 GENERRRALINDEX WWWALKS146 246 GETTINGTO BEYONDMOSCOW MOSCOW ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 152 216 258 GETTINGAROUND PHRRRASE BOOK MOSCOW ANDTRRRANSLITERRRAAATION 220 260 The Tretyakov Gallery(see pp118– 21),housing Russian fine art TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERETO STTTAY 168 RESTTTAURRRANTS, CAFÉS AND BARS178 SHOPS ANDMARKETS 192 ENTERTTTAINMENTIN MOSCOW 198 St Basil’s Cathedral (see pp108–9) UUSS_MMOOSS000044--000055..iinndddd 555555555 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE T his guide will help you to get starts on page 50 and describes all the most from your visit to the important sights, using maps, Moscow. It provides expert photographs and illustrations. The recommendations together with sights are arranged in three groups: detailed practical information. those in Moscow’s central districts, Introducing Moscow maps the those a little further afield, and city and sets it in its geographical, finally those beyond Moscow historical and cultural context, which require one- or two-day and the quick-reference timeline excursions. Hotel, restaurant and on the history pages gives the Neo-Classical entertainment recommendations dates of Russia’s rulers and statue, Kuskovo, can be found in Travellers’ (see pp142–3) significant events.Moscow at a Needs, while theSurvival Guide Glance is an overview of the city’s includes tips on everything from trans- mainattractions. Moscow Area by Area port and telephones to personal safety. FINDING YOUR WAAAYAROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION Each of the seven sightseeing areas is aStreet-by-Street map illustrating a particularly colour-coded for easy reference. Every interesting part of the area; for sights further chapteropens with an introduction to the away, by a regional map. A simple numbering area it covers, describing its history and char- system relates sights to the maps. Important acter. For central districts, this is followed by sights are covered by several pages. 1Introduction to the Area For easy reference, the sights are numbered and plotted on an area map, with metro stations shown where helpful. The key sights (great buildings, museums nd open-air sights) are listed by category. Alocator map Colour-coded shows where you thumb tabs are in relation to mark each area. other areas of the city centre. Locator map The area shaded in pink isshown in greater detail on the Street-by-Street map. 2Street-by-Street Map This gives a bird’s eye view of interesting and important parts of each sightseeing area, with accurate drawings of all the buildings within them. The numbering of the sights ties in with the preceding area map and with the fuller descriptions Suggested Alist of star sights recommends on the pages that follow. walking route theplaces that no visitor should miss.