Monte Zucker’s PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY HANDBOOK Amherst Media ® PUBLISHEROFPHOTOGRAPHYBOOKS Copyright©2008byMonteZucker. Allrightsreserved. Publishedby: AmherstMedia® P.O.Box586 Buffalo,N.Y.14226 Fax:716-874-4508 www.AmherstMedia.com Publisher:CraigAlesse SeniorEditor/ProductionManager:MichellePerkins AssistantEditor:BarbaraA.Lynch-Johnt EditorialAssistance:CareyAnnMaines,ArtieVanderpool ISBN-13:978-1-58428-212-9 LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2007926861 PrintedinKorea. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,stored,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechani- cal,photocopied,recordedorotherwise,withoutpriorwrittenconsentfromthepublisher. Notice of Disclaimer: The information contained in this book is based on the author’s experience and opinions. The au- thorandpublisherwillnotbeheldliablefortheuseormisuseoftheinformationinthisbook. TABLE OF CONTENTS AbouttheAuthor .............................5 4.POSINGFUNDAMENTALS ...................32 BasicPrinciples ............................32 INTRODUCTION .............................6 Seating ...............................32 HowFarWillYouGo? .......................6 BodyatanAngle .......................32 SettingGoals ...............................7 TheShoulders ..........................34 Posture ...............................34 1.PREPARINGFORTHESESSION ...............9 TwoSimplePoses ..........................34 Consultation ...............................9 TheBasicPose .........................34 ChoicesforClothing ........................11 TheFemininePose ......................36 Sleeves ...............................11 BackPoses ...............................39 Necklines .............................11 TheEyes .................................40 ColorsandPatterns ......................13 Expression ...............................44 CoordinatingClothingforFamilyGroups ........15 PosingTools ..............................45 HairstyleandMakeup .......................16 PosingStools ..........................45 Hairstyle ..............................17 PosingTables ..........................46 Makeup ..............................17 FinalAdjustments ..........................46 2.BACKGROUNDS ..........................18 5.GROUPPORTRAITS .......................47 Outdoor/EnvironmentalBackgrounds ..........19 PosingStrategy ............................49 PaintedBackgrounds ........................19 Seating ..................................51 ProjectedBackgrounds ......................21 Direction ................................51 ContemporaryChoices ......................22 FacingTowardEachOther ................51 FacingtheSameDirection ................52 3.THESUBJECT ...........................27 HeadHeight ..............................54 DoingaFacialAnalysis ......................27 DeterminetheBestAngle ....................28 6.LIGHTINGEQUIPMENT ....................56 FullFace ..............................28 BuyingLightingEquipment ..................56 Two-ThirdsView .......................28 StudioFlash ..............................57 Profile ................................31 WhattoLookFor .......................57 AdditionalConsiderations ....................31 MyStudioSetup ........................58 Hair .................................31 ASecondaryUse ........................60 EyeSize ..............................31 ContinuousFluorescent .....................61 Noses ................................31 FollowYourInstincts ....................31 TABLEOFCONTENTS 3 7.LIGHTINGTECHNIQUES ...................64 HeadandShouldersPortraits ..............91 MainLight ...............................65 Profiles ...............................92 DistancetoSubject ......................65 ControllingtheBackground ...............93 WhichSideoftheSubject? ................65 TiltingtheCamera .........................93 FullFace,BasicPose ..................66 Hand-HoldorUseaTripod? .................94 FullFace,FemininePose ...............67 LensSelection .............................95 Two-ThirdsVieworProfile ............67 PersonalFavorites .......................95 ConsidertheNose ...................67 Telephoto .............................95 TheOneandOnlyLightingPatternIUse ....67 WideAngle ............................96 EmphasizingDetail ......................69 Reflectors ................................70 11.COMPOSITION .........................97 ReflectorforFill ........................70 ComposingtheImageinCamera ..............97 ReflectorasaSecondaryMainLight .........70 IncludeSomeBody ......................97 UsetheRuleofThirds ...................98 8.WINDOWLIGHTING .......................72 SubjectPlacement ......................100 DirectionoftheWindow .....................75 SizeoftheSubjectintheFrame ..............103 CommonPitfalls ...........................75 Children .............................103 HeightoftheLightSource ................75 HeadSize ............................103 WindowTreatments .....................75 ShowingtheWindow ....................75 12.EXPOSURE ...........................104 DistanceofWindowtoSubject ................75 WhatisaProperlyExposedPhotograph? ........104 CameraandSubjectPositions .................75 FilmorDigital? ...........................104 PositiontheSubject .....................77 ExposureModes ..........................106 PositiontheCamera .....................77 AperturePriority .......................106 UsingaReflectorwithWindowLight ...........77 ManualMode .........................107 ReflectorforFillLight ...................78 AdditionalExposureDecisions ...............109 ReflectorforMainLight ..................78 ISO .................................109 WhiteBalance .........................109 9.OUTDOORPORTRAITS .....................79 FileFormat ...........................111 LocationSelection ..........................79 TheScene .............................81 13.ADDITIONALCREATIVECHOICES ..........113 TheLighting...........................81 SoftFocus ...............................113 Lighting .................................81 Black&White ...........................115 Shade ................................82 Infrared .................................117 DirectSunlight .........................84 BareBulb ................................86 CONCLUSION ............................119 AFinalChecklist ..........................119 10.CAMERAANDLENS ......................87 AListofThingstoAvoid ...................122 CameraAngle .............................89 InClosing ...............................123 CameraHeight ............................91 Full-LengthPortraits ....................91 Index .................................124 Three-Quarter-LengthPortraits ............91 4 MONTEZUCKER’SPORTRAITPHOTOGRAPHYHANDBOOK ABOUT THE AUTHOR M onte Zucker was a photographer for nearly sixty years, producing wedding photography and portraits that are often credited as genre- defining works of the 20th century. In addition to membership in the elite Camera Craftsmen of America, he earned the distinction of being named as aCanonExplorerofLight.In2002,hewasalsonamedPhotographerofthe YearbytheUnitedNations. Montewasrecognizedasaleadingportraitteacher.Infact,manyoftoday’s leading photographers credit Monte as the original source for their photo- graphic style. “I’ve always wanted to show others good technique and give them the ability to do what they feel,” he said in an interview with Profes- sionalPhotographermagazine.“Iwantthemtobeabletointerpretasituation andputinonpaperforotherstosharetheirvision.” THEZUCKERINSTITUTEFORPHOTOGRAPHICINSPIRATION(ZIPI) The goal of the Zucker Institute for Photographic Inspiration is to help young, at-risk children get involved with photography as a means of direct- ingtheirenergies.Itisourhopethatthiswilladvancethemtowardsuccess- ful and rewarding careers in the industry. To learn more about the mission, pleasevisitwww.montezucker.comandclickonthelinktotheZuckerInsti- tute for Photographic Inspiration. To support the work of the foundation, youcanalsopurchaseanyofMonte’seducationalmaterialsfromthesite.Ad- PhotobyVincentVersace. ditionally, a portion of the proceeds from this book will be contributed to thisimportantcause. ABOUTTHEAUTHOR 5 INTRODUCTION HOWFARWILLYOUGO? Iamcontinuallyaskingprofessionalphotographers(andaspiringprofession- als),“Towhatextentareyouwillingtoputyourselfoutinordertobecome thebestphotographerthatyoucanbe?Towhatlengthsareyouwillingtogo to create the best portrait that you can make?” The answer keeps coming back,“Whateverittakes!I’mreadytogoalltheway.” Idon’tbelievethatanymore—notforthemajorityofpeoplewithwhom Ihavecomeintocontact.Peoplesaythat,butwhenpushcomestoshove,the answer really is, “Whatever it takes . . . as long as I don’t have to put myself outtoomuch.”Manypeoplereallydon’twanttostudy/learnanypredeter- mined technique. Instead, they say, “I want to be myself! Be creative! Be an individual! I don’t really care about what other photographers have done in Do you really believe the past. I’d rather experiment and find out on my own what makes things workformeandmyclients!” that anyone can figure it Doesthismakeanysenseatall?Doyoureallybelievethatanyonecanfig- ure it all out by himself? To my thinking, it makes much more sense to get all out by himself? yourselfa“coach”—someonewhocanseeyourstrengthsandhelpyougrow from them, someone who can point you in the right direction so that you can achieve your maximum potential. Where would all of the world’s great performers, artists, and athletes be today if they had not had proper coach- ing and training? If you think about it, what doesn’t make sense is someone wantingtofigureitalloutbyhimself. So,wheredoyoustandonthisissue?Areyouwillingtostudy—andstudy hard?Topracticehard?Togetthenecessaryequipment,howeverbigorsmall it may be? It’s not easy to achieve your maximum potential—but do you reallywanttosettleforjust“goodenough?” I have to think that if you’re reading this book, you’re at a point where youarereadytomakeyourdecision.Soaskyourself,“AmIgoingforit?Am Iwillingtomaketheefforttolearnpropertechniqueandputittopractice? AmIwillingtostrugglethroughthegrowthstagesofbecomingatruepor- traitphotographerandfindmymaximumpotential?” Perhaps, at this point you should pause and reflect on all of the above. If you’re looking for the easy way to become a creative portrait photographer, 6 MONTEZUCKER’SPORTRAITPHOTOGRAPHYHANDBOOK thencontinuetostudyhere,topractice,andtogrow.If,ontheotherhand, A Monte Portrait (the term Iuse for my work)issimple,elegant,voidofdistractions, youdecidethatyou’drathermakeyourlifedifficult,goaheadandlearnthe and flattering to the subject. It makes a hardway—putthisbookawayrightnowandtryyourownhit-and-misstech- statement mostly about the subject, but at niquesuntilyoumightstumbleonsomethingthatwillworkonceinawhile. the same time reflects my interpretation of It’suptoyou.Goodluckinwhateveryoudecideforyourfuture. thatperson. SETTINGGOALS Aneffectiveportraitmakesadualstatement—first,astatementaboutthesub- ject; second, a statement about the photographer. An effective portrait is a successfulcombinationofthetwo.Ifyoulookataperson’sportraitandyou are drawn into his or her personality—if you feel that you know something INTRODUCTION 7 about the person by looking at the picture—then the photographer has accomplishedhisorhergoal. For example, a Monte Portrait (the term Iuse for my work) is sim- ple,elegant,voidofdistractions,and flattering to the subject. It makes a statement mostly about the subject, but at the same time reflects my in- terpretationofthatperson.AMonte Portrait is one that shows the sub- jects naturally, but also depicts them asIwouldlikethemtobe.Icanpho- tographrealitywhenitsuitsthesub- jects, or I can idealize them when I feel it appropriate. Either way, it is a simple statement. I want you to feel a Monte Portrait as well as see it. If you are emotionally connected with my subjects when you see their por- traits,IfeelthatIhavedonemyjob. You should strive for this with every person that is in front of your lens. The only way to achieve it, however, is to master the technical skillsthatwillenableyoutoconcen- trateoneachsubject—withoutbeing held back by having to think con- sciouslyaboutposingandlighting. It is to this end that this book is beingwritten.Mygoalistogiveyou specificinstructions,step-by-stepand insimplelanguage,onexactlywhich angleofthefacetophotograph,how toposethebody,wheretoplacethe camera, where to position the lights, and how to expose the image for Can anyone really figure it all out by him- maximumdetailinthefinishedprint.Ifyoustudythismaterialcarefullyand self? To my thinking, it makes much more reallyworkwithit,youshouldbeabletobecomethephotographerthatyou sensetogetyourselfacoachtopointyouin the right direction so that you can achieve wanttobe. yourmaximumpotential. I should also note that, even if you prefer to take a photojournalistic ap- proachtoportraiture,youreallyneedtounderstandthematerialinthisbook. Also,whetheryouwanttoworkinsideundercontrolledlightingsituationsor photograph outdoors, this book is for you. I will be detailing a practical ap- proachtobothstylesofportraiture. 8 MONTEZUCKER’SPORTRAITPHOTOGRAPHYHANDBOOK 1. PREPARING FOR THE SESSION Y oucanneverallowpeopletousetheirownjudgmentfortheclothingfor theirportrait.Theywill,undoubtedly,selecttheirfavoriteclothing—and thatclothingcould(andprobablywould)beatotaldistractionfromtheface. Clientswillalsoneedyourguidancewhenitcomestoselectingtherighthair- styleandusingmakeupthatwillphotographwell. CONSULTATION Afullclothingconsultationbeforetheshootisimperativeforachievingpro- fessionalresults.Thisshouldbedoneinperson,notjustoverthetelephone. Manypeoplesimplydon’tunderstandthenecessityofpreparingallthedetails for a portrait. It’s up to you to convince them that your suggestions are for their benefit. Explain clearly and concisely the best choices for clothing and whattoavoid.Itmayhelptoshowthemsamplesofportraitsdemonstrating goodandbadclothingselections. Ifpeoplecometoyouforaportraitandtheirclothingisn’tright,youhave Afullclothingselectionbeforethesessionis criticaltoachievingprofessionalresults. onlyyourselftoblame—youeitherhaven’texplainedthingsclearlyenoughor you haven’t sufficiently emphasized theimportanceofcarefulclothingse- lection in the look of the final por- trait. When this happens, you will have to bear the burden—you will havetoeitherfixtheproblemordeal with a dissatisfied client. Am I mak- ing this statement clear enough to you? Again, how far are you willing togotobethebestthatyoucanbe? So, would you still photograph the subject if you knew in advance that the person wasn’t appropriately prepared for the portrait? That’s up to you. You have to live with the re- sults. I, personally, would do every- thing in my power to have everyone PREPARINGFORTHESESSION 9
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