Table Of Content

WMiODER NES BREAD I ' | [ - Kitchen Manual 6 81.6 are NN al Tost bt barb ba er ts es Volume & Kitchen Manual MODERNIST Sly me} or Ae Be Me ts ‘ye 4 hy yk Ea % Mi i Copyright © 2017 by The Cooking Lab, LLC All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective owners. The Cooking Lab 3150 139th Ave SE Bellevue, WA 98005 www.modernistcuisine.com ISBN: 978-0-9827610-5-2 First edition, 2017 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request Printed in China a — » — i < r r 7 : —__ | * — o— — = ee _| “| W _ = = ' = — a i a \gi i ‘al aa : : "1 DEC SSRN SE BREAD Nathan Myhrvold Francisco Migoya Photography by Nathan Myhrvold and The Cooking Lab Photography Team The Cooking Lab Table of Contents Recipe Notes ....sccsseccssssessssccsssssncsssssensnneennnes x CHAPTER 10: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS Best Bets for Increasing Volume.................. 2 Converting Flours with Vital Wheat Gluten... ase TREE Sengthening Rye and J Ancient Grain PHOS assess ssneoee pipetestisthtt Best Bets ay Easier Shaping wee Handling... eiopsursan Working with Botanical Proteases Best Bets for Gluten-Free Breads... Best Bets for Extending Shelf Life Best Bets for Modifying Texture .. Annp ep CHAPTER 11: INGREDIENT PREPARATION Soaking Grains How to Soak a Grain Grain Mash How to Make Grain Mash... Sprouted Grains inf 7 8 ee. 9 0) How to Sprout a Grain Cooking Grains How to Cook to Al Dente in a Pot Cooking Grains Until They Are Al Dente... 11 How to Cook to Al Dente or Pilafina Pressure Cooker Pressure-Caramelized Inclusions... How to Pressure-Caramelize Inclusions... Porridges oD How to Cook Porridges on the Stove...... 14 Cooking Grains to a Porridge Consistency. How to Pressure-Cook Porridge How to Cook Porridges Overnight How to Make Pregelatinized Flour........0+ Cooking Grains for Puree ...-.cscsssrsssssssressesss 17 CHAPTER 12: FERMENTATION Strategies for Incorporating Yeast . How to Bloom Dry Yeast Strategies for Using Preferments .. Strategies for Using Poolish..... How to Make a Poolish Strategies for Using Pate Fermentée., How to Make a Pate Fermentée .. Basic Levains... How to Start a Liquid Le Levain How to Start a “Sweet-and-Sour” Levain.... 24 Stiff “Sweet-and-Sour” Levain . Best Bets for Levains Tips for Levain Maintenance.... How to Use a Frozen Preferment CHAPTER 13: MIXING How to Perform a Four-Edge Fold.............- 26 CHAPTER 14: DIVIDING AND SHAPING How to Divide Your Dough ...,..ecssecsseesnteene 27 How to Use the First In, First Out (FIFO) Method siicssarsiessststevassssccscrscroesreststtearasts 27 How to Handle Wet Dough Using Gelatin How to Preshape and Shape a Boule The Square Method... The Tuck-In Method.. The Wonton-Shape Method How to Preshape and Shape a Batard . Simple Batard Shape Advanced Batard Shape . How to Preshape and Shape a Baguette...... 30 How to Shape a Ficelle .. How to Shape Fougasse.. How to Shape Brioche 4 Téte. How to Shape Brioche Nanterr How to Shape Flatbreads .. How to Shape Grissini (Breadsticks How to Shape a Pullman Loaf. How to Shape Bagels Pretzels How to Shape a Pretzel . How to Shape Pretzel Buns How to Shape Round Rolls... How to Shape Square Rolls... How to Shape Batard Rolls How to Shape Parker House Rolls How to Shape Cloverleaf Rolls . How to Shape Hoagie Rolls... How to Shape Kaiser Rolls... CHAPTER 15: FINAL PROOFING How to Proof at Room Temperature... Proofing Temperatures for Proofers.... Recommended Conditions for Cold PEO Of cescensssrricsssescrrnstiricesssveoserts 36 Professional Proofing ssssecsssssssssssvssecssssseeeeee 37, How to Proof with a Proofer (aka Proofer Cabinet or Proofing Box)............ pipet 37 CHAPTER 16: SCORING AND FINISHING How to Score Round Shapes... ef How to Score Oval and Elongated Shapes.. 38 How to Score a Baguette. How to Score Rolls......... How to Make Cornstarch Glaze ........ "i How to Make Our Favorite Starch Glaze... How to Make and Apply an Egg Wash......... 40 CHAPTER 18: BAKING Steamed Bread General Directions............. 41 CHAPTER 19: COOLING AND SERVING How to Freeze Bread .......sssessssssssessersenensens 41 CHAPTER 20: LEAN BREADS TGA BLAS cascssececscescurceesotoraycvesvoresesureesstsrens 42 Best Bets for Lean Bread Mixing and Baking....osssccossscsnssscsssssssnssoessesessneessnnsceees 42 Keys to Successfully Executing French Wear Breadsvrercrersrrecvinseserreercsrosssusonrteneett 43 Brenchy Peat Bread stccscercsccosrssesssesspeowetstosets 44 French Lean Bread Baking Times and Temperatures Modernist French Lean Bread A-Plus Baguette. Pain Rustique.... Your Daily Bread .. How to Make Your Daily Bread.. Direct Dough Loaves........... + 52, No-Knead Lean Bread............ moe) The Van Over Method for French Lean Bread . English Muffins. 301% Whole Wheat English Muffins. Modernist English Muffins 5 CUTE ES ooo, sernssecndervacssvosscsrecucerovares Seuaséesssoesss 57 Pressure-Caramelized Sunchoke French Lean Bread Nigoise Olives French Lean Bread . es Pumpkin Pie Filling French Lean Bread..... 8 Candied Chestnut Puree French Lean Raspberry Puree French Lean Bread.. Poi French Lean Bread Soy Sauce French Lean Bread... med Comté Cheese Water and Bacon French Lean Bread........... Rapshestesdtissadliacalteaen 59 Lean Dough with Raspberry Fluid Gel Toasted Flour Loaf French Lean Bread with Orange Juice......... 2018] Whole Wheat French Lean Bread...... Seeded French Lean Bread, Filone.. i i) a e “i a Banh Mi Rolls Sourdough.. Sourdough Baking Times and LOMPELALULES G seicivaipesavonersatel een vO 63 Keys for Successfully Executing Sourdough Making a Basic Levain.. Strategies for Using Levain Create Your Own Sourdough Recipe Modernist Sourdough Sourfaux Second-Chance Sourdough Lemon and Herb Pesto Sourdough... Hominy and Mole Sourdough Huitlacoche and Yellow Corn Sorutlletigite 272 Bosc Pear and Toasted Coconut Sourdough ,-sscncvorrteaeeenvenrensteradee 72 Cherry Pie and Chocolate Chip Souirdouiyhiwateethvtewmtere stercsseetteces. crepe ease 72 Pistachio Butter Sourdough... 72 Aji Amarillo and Roasted Purple Potato Sourdouphiwraeresmrsetrmecrtectaet 72 Matcha Green Tea Sourdough Parmesan Cheese Water Sourdough. Seawater Sourdough. S'mores Sourdough... Earl Grey Sourdough... Charcoal Sourdough... Pressure-Caramelized Wheat Berries Sourdough Ramen Sourdough ies Sourdough with Porridge ....csecsssessssersecssees 74 Sourdough with Seeds, Soakers, or Sprouted: Grain siesccsemerenmaneret 76 Chocolate and Cherry Sourdough............0.. 78 Black Currant Sourdough with Marcona WA Limi rid Gielen ceicolteresenlestnovovecuocteeneaee™ 79 Blackberry and Lemon Verbena SOU OU pba ecosvee crus tervereeetornrtscentanenerts 79 Pressure-Cooked Potato Broth Sourdough tiacserrsemanescrens cucerceceeated) How to Pressure-Cook Potato Broth Tomato Water Sourdough San Francisco Sourdough... Seattle Sourdough. Mantuan Bread How to Shape Mantuan Bread .. Multicolored Mantuan .....ssssesees Bozza Pratese Pain Brié de Calvados.. Durum Sourdough....... How to Score Durum Sourdough... Ammionite Bread sirassssssssnsaciesssansserconancgiaaret 7 Country-Style Bread..cssssssssssseersnneeeessseeees 88 Keys for Successfully Executing Country-Style Breads... 89 a 87 Country-Style Bread Baking Times and Temperatures .... Modernist Country Bread.. Direct Country-Style Bread.. Grain Count Sourdough Whole-Grain, Nut, and Seed Mix.... For 7-Grain-and-Seed Sourdough... For 21-Grain-and-Seed Sourdough. For 24-Grain-and-Seed Sourdough. For 35-Grain-Seed-and-Nut Sourdough..... 95 25(% High-Extraction Flour Bread ........s000 96 Whole-Grain Flour Country-Style Breads. Moddizzosu Bread.. Arizona Grain Loaf Spelt and Whole Wheat Ciabatta Ancient Grain Bread Ancient Grain Baking Times and Temperatures ...cssssessssscsrssssnsssssarsstonsosceee 104 Ancient Grain Flour and Inclusion Options Keys to Successfully Executing Ancient Grain Breads 60% Buckwheat Flour Sourdough.. % Modernist Ancient Grain Bread .......c..c0e00- Modernist Ancient Grain Bread Ingredient Options........cssecssecssesseseenes 108 Compleat Wheat i... crvucucasastrtienntia 109 Compleat Wheat Baking Times and Temperatures Galliard Loaf .. Ciabatta Ciabatta Baking Times and Temperatures... 115 Keys to Successfully Executing High Hydration Recipes.. Modernist Ciabatta Direct Ciabatta 90%) Hydration French Lean Bread... 100%%/ Hydration French Lean Bread 110% Hydration French Lean Bread 120{%/ Hydration French Lean Bread 90\4 Hydration Sourdough. 100% Hydration Sourdough Surfer Sourdough... pret Flour Blend Variations .. Ciabatta with Gelatin ... High-Hydration Dough with Gelled Water Cubes Potato Ciabatta ... Piquillo Pepper Ciabatta Orange Marmalade Ciabatta Apricot Ciabatta Mincemeat Ciabatta . Pressure-Caramelized Mushroom Ciabatta.... Vitello Tonnato Ciabatta.. Francese Whole Wheat Francese Levain Francese . Pan de Cristal..... Potato Pugliese... Potato Puree... Lentil Pugliese ........040. Refried Bean Pugliese Pugliese Modernist Pugliese Pressure-Caramelized Potato Pure CHAPTER 21: ENRICHED BREADS How to Apply an Egg Wash or Starch Glaze to Pan Loaves...cssesssssssssesecsssessnee 134 How to Make Clarified Butter and Brown Duttetinnaancicsteacvaiawveaeatoss “Sweet-and-Sour” Levain How Much Can You Fit in a Pan i Brlochie csteccccscrctepmaertrcitesteertssetercacstectarcomeeonte 136 Keys to Successfully Executing Brioche...... 138 Brioche Baking Times and Temperatures... 140 Brioche Flour Alternatives. Modernist Brioche 25% Butter Brioche. 75{M Butter Brioche. woe 142 eae 142, we 143, Babka Filling. Nutella Babka.... 100{%4 Butter Brioche 87{%i Hydration Brioche. 100% Hydration Brioche Smoked Brioche Speculoos Cookie Butter Brioche ... Purple Sweet Potato Brioche Roasted Golden Beet Brioche... Hazelnut Butter Brioche Corn Brioche cad to) sore 145 . 145 Mango Brioche Lychee Brioche Dashi Butter Brioche... Onion Butter Brioche Garam Masala Butter Brioch Butternut Squash Butter Brioche Herb Butter Brioche... Crustacean Butter Brioche Gingerbread Spice Butter Brioche... Bacon-Infused Schmaltz Brioche..... Foie Gras Brioche Foie Gras Brioche Dough. Foie Gras Mousse... 5 Pistachio Butter.......cssssssesssesessees perracnene e Brie-oche ........ Coconut Oil Brioche Animal Fat Brioche Brioche 4 Téte ....... Caul Fat Brioche............ Assorted Brioche Nanterre .. 50{% Whole Wheat Brioche No-Sugar-Added Brioche..... Mayonnaise Brioche.. Parmesan Brioche ...... Oil Brioche Olive Oil Brioche Pistachio Oil Brioche Hazelnut Oil Brioche.. Levain Brioche Levain Brioche 20% Butter: Levain Brioche 25 Butter ... Levain Brioche 501% Butter .. No-Knead Brioche... Sablée Brioche . Chocolate Brioche . Eggless Brioche Eggless, Lactose-Free Brioche . Vegan Brioche . Sally Lunn Panettone Keys to Successfully Executing Panettone Chocolate Panettone Faster Panettone...... Modernist Panettone Colomba Di Pasqua Colomba Di Pasqua Topping . Portuguese Sweet Bread King’s Day Bread Candied Orange Slices. Candied Kumquats Gateau Battu Keys to Successfully Executing Challah. Challah Baking Times and Temperatures... 180 100% Whole Wheat Challah.. Flavored Challah Schmaltz Challah... Ironic Challah ........ Modernist Challah Coconut Milk Challah . Sweet Potato Challah Hazelnut Praline Challah Fig Jam Challah... Quince Challah Spinach Challah Vegan Challah ..ssecccssssssesvee White Sandwich Bread...... Keys to Successfully Executing White Sandwich Bread sssccsscsbvessssstosisisbscseuiteats 185 White Sandwich Bread Baking Times and Temperatures Modernist White Sandwich Bread . Potato Sandwich Bread Pain de Mie...... Japanese Sandwich Bread. Two-Step Sandwich Loaf. Two-Step Recommended Combinations csscscecyecsrenvsseor-eesearecreveyseces Sweet Potato Sandwich Bread.. Apple Pie Sandwich Bread Potato and Bacon Sandwich Bread. Pressure-Caramelized Carrots Artichoke Sandwich Bread Praline Sandwich Bread. Onion Rye Loaf... Jewish Deli Rye Marbled Rye American Pumpernickel 10017 Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread. Ube Sandwich Bread Vegan White Sandwich Bread Cinnamon Raisin Bread Hawaiian Pineapple Sweet Bread. Salt-Rising Bread . Dinner Rolls... Parker House Rolls Round Parker House Rolls. Hamburger Buns 100{%? Whole Wheat Hamburger Buns Hot Dog Buns Modernist Hamburger Buns Pain Au Lait Buns Kaiser Rolls... Hoagie Buns.. 201% Whole Wheat Hoagie Buns , CHAPTER 22: RYE BREADS Rarmer‘s: Bread snes noiten ta itariiny 212 Farmer's Bread Baking Times and Temperatures sientvntresrveelrenaltivern teed, 214 Keys to Successfully Executing Farmer's Bread sarenonaainuniries Mme trent; 215 Modernist Farmer’s Bread... Direct Farmer's Bread a) x Tomato Farmer's Bread ..sssscessssessssesessseesseess 207 Pressure-Caramelized Garlic Farmer's Bread siiivwveritiearvescasssnnane Cashew Butter Farmer's Brea’ Pear Farmer's Bread jv... Hummus Farmer's Bread.............++ rrcorg nie Wf Apricot and Cherry Mostarda Rye Bread ... 218 Farmer's Bread with Figs. +218 Sauerkraut Rye 4 219 Finnish Rye Bread....sssssssvessssessssssseenneessreess 220 Finnish Rye Bread Baking Times and Temperatures . Basler Brot.. Landbrot. Landbrot with Pressure-Caramelized Cherries and Almonds ........sssseesseeseernens 223 St. Gallen Brot... Veal Parmesan Rye Bread Waldviertler Jausenlaiberl Pain au Seigle Pain de Méteil.... Jewish Corn Rye Black Pudding Sourdough. 48-Hour Rye Sourdough Bread .. Russian Rye Bread or Black Bread.. Onion Rye Levain. 100% High-Ryes.... 100{% High-Ryes Baking Times and GED EVACULES arecetstevesresseresbeteesscunerretistces 235 Keys to Successfully Executing 100{%! Rye Bread cree teeerenscesscoastsceesasccaaieaseaneteriserer eee 236 How to Shape High-Percentage Rye MPEEACS Seesesssadearisisunibsenromeay tang eeeereate 237 Free-Form Loave: Pan Loaves... Modernist 100{% High-Ryes Poached Quince and Cranberry Rye BY EA sssseaapsasscatsosvssraepsesatssvionisoortotyeonnesae® 239 Bryoche.., 240 Roggenbrot.. 241 Valais Bread. .. 242, Ruis Bread + 243 Pain Bouilli.. Pain Bouilli Baking Times and PVCMIPELATUNER sssaicansangeisanncinaantniter nei? 245 Tap aM NCL OA oo: scsnsssastonssboee nseasaissressdtiversaess iva 246 Hapanleipa Baking Times and Temperatures Frankenlaib. Wortekalensccrsessaczsssurscesusespsssiesiessns German Sunflower Seed Rye Bread..... 250 German Sunflower Seed Rye Baking Times and Temperatures Boston Brown Bread Boston Brown Bread Baking Times and Temperatures....... Odenwald Farmer's Bread... os 254 Geraterthrot se msasiusiessagaeent hh means S CHAPTER 23: BRICK-LIKE BREADS WholesGrain Loaf tinaiisanonnnnneins 250 Whole-Grain Loaf Baking Times and Temperatures siiivcssvsisssiers 257 Keys to Successfully Executing Whole-Grain Breads........csssssessesssesseeens 257 Microwave Whole-Grain Loaf .....cccssseee 258 Improving Volume for Breads that Contain Bran.. Grain Mash .... Modernist Whole-Grain Loaf, Wheat Beer, Sprouted Grains, and Toasted Seeds iWoalssentette.tetiesiveatdte 260 Toasted Pecan, Raisin, and Sesame Seed Loaf. . 260 Cranberry, Currant, Walnut, and Pistachio Mtoe ssositeceandauciastacd elearera estate oles 261 Hazelnut, Cocoa Nib, and Apricot Loaf with Spices .. 261 Vollkornbrot... Faster Vollkornbro’ 262 Vollkornbrot Baking Times and ARCMp CrAtuTes..sasssaceessmnsssesusestre,ceerevecstenen 264 Keys to Successfully Executing Vollkornbrot... - 265 Modernist Vollkornbrot.. . 266 Rugbrod . 268 Faster Rugbro: Dried Fruit Vollkornbrot.... Candied Fruit Vollkornbrot Toasted Nuts Vollkornbrot .... Pressure-Caramelized Grains, Nuts, and Dried Fruit Vollkornbrot ........eccese 269 Chocolate Chunks and Cocoa Powder Vollkornbrot. Pumpernickel... Keys to Successfully Executing Pumpernickel. Pumpernickel Baking Times and Temperatures ....sscscsnerresssensensonsenrensensese 271 Shorter Pumpernickel Baking Times and Tem peraturesiriisscsssssenrensnssascssyes Modernist Bavarian Pumpernickel.. Pumpernickel Raisin Bread. CHAPTER 24: FLATBREAD AND PIZZA NAAM sgeciessacssncarseasansasonnootneasoauarstestestersascannanenss 274 Naan Baking Times and Temperatures .......276 Keys to Successfully Executing Naan.........276 Modernist Naati....csssesssessessenernensen aianssakssnen ae OT 100{% Whole Wheat Naan Brioche Naan versssssessessseeone - Butter Chicken Spice Naan .. » 278 Black Garlic Naan... Roasted Piquillo Pepper Naan Herb Naan Cilantro Pesto Naam.....ssccsseesssssseenssanrenseneees Tomato Chutney and Nigella Seed Naan....279 Miatrialeaghssassasssvnsstsaiesssassncesterstiveetsereaatasss 280 Tonis Puri Malooga... Tigella Sheermal.. Obi Non... Bhatoora.. Ramazan Pidesi Sangak.. Mofleta Malawach Kubaneh . How to Shape Kubaneh How to Bake Kubaneh Keys to Successfully Executing Pita i Pita Baking Times and Temperatures.......... 300 How to Make Use of Stale Pita Modernist Pita Chimichurri Pita Bread ..... 10004 Whole Wheat Pita .. Beet Muhammara Pita Bread Spinach Pita Bread .....csecssnsscossccnesessecssaserssees Pressure-Caramelized Leek and Onion Pita Bread Scallion Pita Bread .. Pressure-Caramelized Butternut Squash Pita Bread 501%! Non-Bread Flour Pita .. Same-Day Pita .... Arabic Bread. Aish Merahrah.. Soft Lavash Jreesh... Air Bread Lavash Crackers 7" Lavash Baking Times and Temperatures... 309 Whole Wheat Lavash .......ss0seerseee0s nse Keys to Successfully Executing Lavash Modernist Lavash Crackers Pane Carasau... Carta da Musica.. Carta da Musica Baking Times and Temperatures Focaccia... Focaccia Baking Times and Temperatures.. 316 Keys to Successfully Executing Focaccia ....316 The Wide World of Focaccia Toppings Focaccia Oil Alternatives Direct Focaccia Modernist Focaccia . Sunflower Seed Focaccia Plantain Focaccia.. Pressure-Caramelized Onion Focaccia ....... 322 Calamansi Focaccia . Cassava Focaccia Tomato Focaccia.. Fugazzeta... 100{% Whole Wheat Focaccia . Fougasse.... Sfincione. z. Neapolitan Pizza Dough... Neapolitan Pizza Baking Times and Temperatufe .....sscsssssesssessessssessnersseansense 328 Dough Variations for a Wood-Fired 50% Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Same-Day Pizza Dough..... Pizza Toppings one The Process of Preparing Your Cheese....... 329 Keys to Successfully Executing Pizza Modernist Neapolitan Pizza Dough.. New York Pizza Dough New York Pizza Baking Times and Temperatures ......secssecssssesnsenecrsenneonsensens Sicilian Pizza Dough No-Knead Pizza Dough... High Bubble Count Pizza Dough... Compleat Wheat Neapolitan Pizza Onion Pizza Dough Tomato Pizza Dough Spinach Pizza Dough Potato Pizza Dough inB39 Roasted Garlic Pizza Dough c Mushroom Pizza Dough... 339 Tomato Sauce.. Garlic Knots.... Calzone.......0+ nsksahscsvaeosiaisas Calzone Filling Options .. Flatbread Dough Base Armenian Meat Pie Armenian Sausage Pie . Ground Meat, Onion, and Parsley Pie Balloon Bread. How to Cook Balloon Bread , Beet Balloon Bread... Parsley Balloon Bread... Saffron Balloon Bread . DOBaisisssrsesenrsooseosonssxaninn Keys to Successfully Executing Dosa Modernist Dosa Dosa in a Waffle Iron Dosa in an Aebleskiver Pan... Teff Injera Sorghum Injera Modernist Teff Injera . Kendichebrritd ciscsscsssicssssascssnessscssssesvenaseliastspsavas 353 Kniackebréd Baking Times and Temperatures Modernist Knackebrad .. 1001 Whole Wheat Grissini CHAPTER 25: BAGELS, PRETZELS, AND BAO 358 359 . 360 wee 360 Poon we 361 + 361 Bagel Keys to Successfully Executing Bagels Bagel Baking Times and Temperatures... Garnishing Bagels Starch Slurry Coating... How to Bake a Bagel on a Board Steamed Bagel Z Modernist Bagel seee 362 Piquillo Pepper Bagel tas SOF Huitlacoche Bagel . woes 364 Spinach Bagel +o 364 Fig Bagel oe 364 Blueberry Pie Bagel eOOS Coconut Bagel eos: Bagel Shaping Variation peaOS Gluten-Free Bagel... ++ 365 Fried Bagel... 365 1001 Whole Wheat Bage 366 Onion Bagel ..... 366 + 366 -- 366 ++ 366 soe 367 -- 367 + 368 .- 369 . 370 oT ence iis 374 Patna ey Country-Style Bagel ... Cinnamon Raisin Bagel. Walnut Bagel Marbled Bagel. Montreal Bagel Pumpernickel Bagel Rye Bagel Levain Bagel .. Bialy.... -- 376 Bialy Baking Times and Temperatures........ 377 Pretzel........ wuerveavrevrssesrresbrvavsbeetresdecentesseerasbesee 378 Pretzel Baking Times and Temperatures..... 379 Shaping Nontraditional Pretzels.....cssccssee- 380 How to Shape Pretzel “Kaiser” Rolls....... 380 How to Shape Corkscrew Pretzels..,....... 380 How to Shape Plaited Pretzels . .. 380 How to Shape Tie Buttons..... 380 How to Shape Scissor Pretzels . 380 Keys to Successfully Executing Pretzels...... 380 How to Bake the Best Pretzel.......:essccereeree 381 Dipping Pretzels in a Baking Soda Solution Modernist Pretzel ..... How to Shape Pretzel Buns How to Shape Stuffed Pretzels.. Filling and Topping Recommendations.. 385 Poblano Pepper and Corn Pretzel Roll Pistachio) Pretzel 20 3-scssisessscnsseasseousuassn - 386 Banana Pretzel... Cherry Pretzel.... Nicoise Olive Pretzel... Red Cabbage Pretzel... 100{%! Whole Wheat Pretzel .. Steamed Buns Steamed Buns Steaming Times... 389 Keys to Successfully Executing Steamed Modernist Steamed Buns (Mantou) Shaping Steamed Buns.... How to Shape Mantou. How to Shape Folded Mantou How to Shape Bao (Filled Buns) ............ How to Shape Yin Si Juan (Silver Thread Bun)... i How to Shape Hua Juan (Flower Bun). Mango Mantou.... Strawberry Mantou Scallion Mantou.. Pandan Mantou.... Black Garlic Mantou.. Tahini Mantou CHAPTER 26: GLUTEN-FREE BREADS Gluten-Free Brioche... Earl Grey Brioche Gluten-Free Brioche Baking Times and Temp eraturesarcestermcnerecscrerreteerrestteers 396 Keys to Successfully Executing Gluten-Free How to Smooth the Top of a Gluten-Free Dough. How to Make Soy Milk.. How to Make Whey Water... How to Make a Seed-Based Thickener....... How to Make Free-Form Gluten-Free Loaves iarassiteratim antetaieintee tee Vegan Gluten-Free Brioche Nut-Milk Bread Nut-Milk Bread Baking Times and Temperatures... How to Make Nut Milks Best Bets for Nut and Grain Milks .. Modernist Nut-Milk Bread Whey and Quinoa Bread ....ssssessserseersseesreeeee Gluten-Free Whole-Grain Loaf Idli.... Idli Steaming Times and Temperatures ...... 407 Gluten-Free Flour Blend .........::ssscsssseseevenes Chia-Seed Paste .......++0+ Chia-Seed Egg Replacer.. CHAPTER 27: BREAD-MACHINE RECIPES Basic Bread-Machine Bread .....s-+sssessereeneree 410 Olive Oil and Rosemary Bread-Machine Cheddar Cheese, Jalapefio, and Corn Bread-Machine Bread.........:ssseseseseessseneee How to Bake in a Bread Machine How to Shape Bread-Machine Brioche How to Shape Bread-Machine Challah Bread-Machine French Lean Bread Modernist Bread-Machine French Lean Bread. Bread-Machine Sourdough .. Modernist Bread-Machine Sourdough. Bread-Machine Focaccia Bread-Machine Brioche Modernist Bread-Machine Brioche... Bread-Machine Challah. Modernist Bread-Machine Challah..........-. Bread-Machine White Sandwich Bread......414 Modernist Bread-Machine White Sandwich Bread Bread-Machine Farmer’s Bread... Modernist Bread-Machine Farmer's Bread.. Bread-Machine Landbrot. ee Modernist Bread-Machine Landbrot.......... 416 Bread-Machine Whole-Grain Loaf... Modernist Bread-Machine Whole-Grain NGG AL ss copes oasonagros snapocennesstnisesacosspeamertentenatta 416 Bread-Machine Vollkornbrot......--:.sesssee0 416 Modernist Bread-Machine Vollkornbrot .... 416 Bread-Machine Bavarian Pumpernickel...... 418 Bread-Machine 100% High-Ryes.. Modernist Bread-Machine Bavarian Pumpernickel... Modernist Bread-Machine 1001 High-Ryes .... Unconventional Ovens. BASIC RECIPES Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock..........+ 422 Brown Veal Stock Cheese Stock. Best Bets for Cheese Stock... Modernist Béchamel.. Beef Rib Pastrami : teat Mac and Cheese... Browned Onions.. Curry Beef Filling yin 24) Bread Spices + 426 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds.... 426 Tomato Contr ayesnininiie 426 Broccoli Raab Pizza wes 427 +427 e427 +1427 oe 427 + 428 428 +2 428 +429 + 429 ++ 430 ++ 430 425 + 425 Capicola Pizza.. Finocchiona Pizza... Genovese Pizza Uovo Pizza Apricot-Cherry Mostarda Gellan Gum Raspberry Fluid Ge Agar Raspberry Fluid Gel. Marzipan.... Pine Nut Marzipan .. Pastry Cream Buttermilk Icing = Salt We recommend using fine crystal salts because the smaller the crystals are, the faster and RECIPE NOTES a) . =| more effectively th ill di ; F : basal : 5 of . 5 —— | y they will disperse and dissolve in the dough. Use fine salt or table salt. This overview provides tips for each step of the bread-making tips on how to prepare specific types of bread, see the Keys to — ia es srocess, from preparing the ingredients to cooling the bread. Successfully Executing the Recipes sections in the intros of the Ss ie sa t his Peluso ese eaernne ae ae p ss, from preparing t g ; ; . “ "f te ratew different brands so that you can convert Iso include substitutions tor ce i ‘ents such as salt recipe chapters. You'll also find a breakdown of our recipe for: n.. ee alae We also include substitutions for certain ingrechemts suc p se =. = ee dalle Fak ay ae aah : 5 ie adam “map eer po cil ——_ mately, we recommend weighing your ingredients. La Baleine Sea Salt (fine) 16.63 g x Fora ive li ; | [m4 pny comprehensive list of salt conversions, AAA Fan Kieditamanean 16.33 = se 2306. <a Sea Salt (fine) General Most of our recipes will have close to 2M salt. The Morton Table Salt (iodized) | 18.23 g The total times in the recipes do not include a gram, like salt and yeast. It helps to have If you are using the volume measures forthe the time required to prepare the ingredients before mixing the dough. The exception to this rule is when you make custom levains or preferments that take an extended period of time to prepare, such as the levain in the Teff Injera (see page 350) or the first dough in the Panettone (see page 165). In these cases, the total time includes the time it takes to make these preferments. The active time may increase slightly depend- ing on how long it takes to scale the ingre- dients ar add them to a bowl. We list the machine mixing time in the dashboard because we recommend that method for mixing most doughs. Ingredients We highly recommend weighing all the ingre- dients for our recipes. This is the best way to achieve consistently successful results. In some of our recipes, you will notice that some ingredients are measured in tenths of Flour We prefer to use the brands of flour listed be- low. if these are not readily accessible, use the bread flour that is available to you. Bread Flour Central Milling Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Pius Flour (unbleached and malted): 11.5% protein King Acthur Sir Galahad Flour: 11.7% protein Gold Medal Better for Bread: 12% protein Whole Wheat Flour King Arthur Unbleached White Whole Wheat Hlowr: 13% protein a precision scale to weigh these types of ingredients with accuracy. For amounts this small, you can mix powders in with the flour or dilute liquids in the water portion of the recipe. This will help them to disperse evenly. Ingredients that require less precise amounts, like flour and water, are rounded to the near- est gram. The smallest volume measurement in the recipes is Yis tsp. Measure Y tsp and divide the amount in half to obtain Yc tsp. We designed a specific symbol (i!) so that you will know when an ingredient is measured in baker's percentage. The majority of the recipes list the ingredient percentages by baker's percentage (i%/). When the primary ingredient is not flour, the ingre- dients will be listed by scaling percentage (see page 2-68). In the rare case that a recipe’s ingredients are listed in baker's percentage but the recipe has a component with scaling percentage, the scaling percentages in the ii column are omitted. King Arthur Premium 100% Whole Wheat Flour: 14% protein High-Gluten Flour Central Milling Organic High Mountain: 13.5% protein King Arthur Sir Lancelot High-Gluten Flour: 14.2% protein Notall brands of flour are standardized to the same protein content. Some companies will call a flour with 11.9% protein “all-purpose” flour while another brand will categorize a flour with 11.7% protein as “bread flour” (see page 2242). Look on the flour bag’s label or dry ingredients in the recipes, measure the volume first, and then sift the ingredient. Net Contents The net contents table will give you a break- down of whats in the dough. The table's entries may not always match up identically with the ingredient list. Certain multicom- ponent ingredients will be broken down into their major components (water, sugar, fat, and starch) and then added to others like it to provide you with a grand total of the primary ingredients in the dough. For example, in the Brioche net contents table on page 136, you'll see an entry for water even though there is no water listed in the ingredient list. The water that the milk, eggs, and butter contribute is what makes up the water in the net contents table. The same principle applies to the fat and sugar in that table. Note that although the recipe contains 36.4719 milk, itis not accurate to say that the recipe is 36.471 hydration. The net contents table shows that the dough is actually 59.531 hydration. Do not use all-purpose flour unless it is specified. If the recipe calls for high-gluten flour and you only have bread flour, you can always add vital wheat gluten to it (see page 3). If the recipe calls for whole wheat flour, we recommend our technique for re-creating “whole wheat” flour on page 109, This will allow you to make a bread with a higher volume than one made with regular whole wheat flour. exception is dough that is 90{%/water or above. These doughs require 2.5{i salt on average due to the additional water content. Yeast The most important goal when mixing any kind of yeast into a dough is to disperse it evenly so that it can achieve its full fermenting power. The second objective is to fully hydrate the yeast cells (if using dry yeast). Osmotolerant yeast is used for enriched doughs that contain sugar. Sugar produces a high osmotic pressure environment in the dough and steals water from the yeast (see page 2:281). Osmotolerant yeast is a strain that does well in these types of environments because it was bred for sweet doughs. If you use this yeast in nonenriched breads, it might take a little longer to proof than a dough made with instant dry yeast. We recommend blooming instant yeast in the water or milk, which will help disperse the yeast very effectively throughout the dough. The water temperature will vary, but it is usually between 18 and 24°C/ 65 and 75°F. Milk is kepta little colder, at 4°C/39 °F. Eggs, Milk, and Butter A large egg weighs an average of 50 g, with the whites making up 30 g and the yolks 20 g. To determine the volume measures for eggs, we divided the total weight of the Use the table below to convert measurements of one type of yeast into another. These conversions are based on weights of yeast, not volume measures. Our recipes are based on instant yeast, so if you don’t have that on hand, you'll use the conversions to figure out how much yeast to use. Original yeast | For instant, For active dry, For fresh, type multiply by multiply by instant 3 Sugar You should always use granulated sugar when we call for “sugar” in the ingredient list. egg in the recipe by 50 g and rounded to the closest number of whole eggs so that there is no waste. We generally recommend using cold eggs and cold milk because they are mixed into enriched doughs, which often need a long mixing time to reach full gluten development. The mixer friction can heat the dough to undesirable temperatures. If using powdered lecithin, use half the amount of the liquid lecithin called for in the recipe. We used unsalted butter with 82'%/-831 fat to formulate the recipes. In many of the recipes in this book, itis best to add the butter to the dough when it is room Diastatic Malt Powder Many flours are malted, which means they have a small amount of diastatic malt powder (DMP) added to them. These flours will have an enhanced amylase count, which means that there is more sugar for the yeast to consume. We add a small amount of DMP to doughs with long fermentation times even if we Gold Medal Whole Wheat Flour:13.3% protein °" the miller’s website to see if they list the protein content. “ - Central Milling Organic Whole Wheat Hi-Pro om ther P Fine Hour: 14% protein are using malted flour. This ensures that the yeast temperature so that it is pliable and easy to mix. : will never run out of food. Ifyou cannot find DMP (see Resources, pages 5-XXXVII-XLIID, you can replace it with amylase. This can be purchased from home brewing equip- ment and ingredient shops (they call it amylase enzyme). Use 1 part amylase for every 50 parts DMP. xi Preferments The Strategies for Using Preferments table on page 19 shows you the world of preferments ata glance. Use it as a quick reference to see the basic characteristics and composition of each preferment. It's also a time-management tool so you can successfully plan your dough production schedule. in the recipe and then autolyse, even if it is a commercial yeast-based preferment. This produces the largest volume in the loaves of bread mixed in the shortest period of time. The one exception is pate fermenteée. This prefer- ment needs no further gluten development, so it should be mixed into a dough once it has reached medium to medium-full gluten devel- if you are autolysing your dough, you can mix the preferment in with the water and flour Mixing The doughs are always mixed using the hook attachment unless other- wise specified. ifthere aren't enough ingredients for the dough hook to mix them well, use a paddle attachment initially to get all the ingredients uniformly mixed. Once you have a homogeneous mass, switch to a hook attach- ment. If your bakery is at or around 21°C /70°F, you can use water at that temperature to mix into the dough. In that case, there is really no use in calculating desired dough temperature (DDT). This is unusual, however, for a production environment. When your bakery or kitchen is hot, you will need to know how cool your water needs to be so that the dough doesn’t get too hot while mixing. When your bakery is on the cooler side, you will need to mix your dough with warm water. Ifyou do have to calculate DDT, see our formula and worksheet on opment only (see page 3-89). How long a dough needs to mix will depend the type of dough, type of mixer, and environmental conditions. The mixing times we provide for each dough are averages that may need to be adjusted based on your mixer and your kitchen. Shaggy mass describes the dough after you have mixed the flour and water (and possibly the yeast or a preferment) to a crude mass. The ingredients cannot be identified separately from each other, but you do not a have a smooth dough. Mixing to a homogeneous mass is when the dough is in a cohesive form that is less lumpy and has more body but not really any significant gluten development. Whatever machine you use, always make sure to start on the lowest speed, lest you be wearing the ingredients instead of making a dough pages 3-92-93. Ifyou are cold-proofing your dough or bulk fermenting it for an extended period of time at room temperature, DDT isn’t as crucial to measure because the dough will equilibrate to these temperatures. Bulk Fermentation You should bulk ferment the doughs at room temperature, covered, unless otherwise directed. All folds in the recipes are four-edge folds unless otherwise noted. When hand mixing, we typically mix toa lower gluten development and then develop the gluten during folding. When machine mixing, the dough is usually mixed to a more with them. Slowly increase the speed as the dough begins to forma homogeneous mass. If you are mixing doughs by hand, as long as your water is at room temperature, DDT is not relevant, Your hands will not produce enough friction to overheat the dough. Shaping advanced stage of gluten development with Because doughs with high hydrations (7518 fewer folds and a shorter bulk fermentation and above) are more fluid than solid, it is time. challenging to handle them if you have little We usually recommend 6 four-edge folds Ms a ets sana Leu during bulk fermentation for hand-mixed ane orbandiine these types ol dove fein. (see page 3-144). _ For additional tips on dividing and sh: If your dough is fermenting too quickly dur- vat dousty sexpage sas ing bulk fermentation, refrigerate it. Final Proofing Make sure to keep the dough covered if proofing at room temperature or cold-proofing (see page 3-212). You can leave a dough uncovered ina proofer. Generally, levain-based doughs can be proofed at 27 °C/80 °F for 2-3h or at room temperature (21 °C/70 °F) for 3-4 h. Commercial yeast-based lean breads proof faster, between 45 min and 14 h at 27 °C/ 80 °F or 1-2 hat room temperature. Enriched doughs take 2-3 h at 27 °C/80 °F or 3-4 hat 21 °C/70 °F. Baking The recipes will indicate with a green star which are the ideal ovens to bake in, but if you have a different oven, see pages 3-360-363 and page 3-372 for our tips on how to bake in each oven. We recommend a combination cooker (see page 3-376) if you are baking inahome oven. It will produce the highest volume and best color, plus it will produce its own steam in the self-contained environment (see page 3:305). The ideal loaf weight for these combination cookers is 850 g. Cooling Always allow your bread to cool thoroughly before consuming. You can almost always cold-proof dough, especially levain-based doughs. Our favorite time and temperature combination is 13 °C/ 55 °F for 14h. This requires a proofer-retarder or a wine refrigera- tor, though (see page 3-229), You can also cold-proof these doughs at 4 °C/39 °F for 12-16 h (or more; see our 72-hour sourdough on page 3-227). If using a baking stone, place it ona rack just below the center of the oven. This will keep the bread in the center of the oven. The majority of breads will scorch on the bottom if using a baking steel. The exception is flatbreads or if you are baking breads in a combi oven. Ina deck oven, keep all the dough evenly spaced out for even heat flow. Make sure to apply steam as soon as you close the door. Most of our breads are best consumed within 24 h of baking. If you don’t think you'll eat the loaf within that period, we recommend you wrap and freeze a portion of the bread (see page 41). Breads like sourdoughs and rye breads last for up to 2-3 d (see page 3-417). xiii Best Bets for Increasing Volume Recommended for Whole Range Lean Rye wheat Enriched Sandwich Ingredient Otherforms () breads breads breads breads breads Recipes HM pectin | 2-2.5 v v v v v pumpkin 05-1 v v v v v | powder GENU pectin 0.6-1.2 v v Vv v v irescatote amylase 0.01-0.05 v diastatic 2 Vv New York Pizza Dough (page 332), | malt powder Balloon Bread (page 346) ascorbic acid 0.001- v 0.2 French Lean Bread (page 44), Your Daily SP Bread (page 51), Ancient Grain Bread vitamin C 0.001- Vv (page 102) supplements 0.2* sodium stearoyl 0.4-0.6 Vv Modernist White Sandwich Bread lactylate (SSL) (page 187) diacetyl tartaric acid 0,2-1 ] ester of mono- glycerides (DATEM) polysorbate 80 (PS80) 0.1-0.3 propylene glycol ~ 0.25-0.5 Modernist Steamed Buns (Mantou) alginate (PGA) = (page 390), Steamed Buns (page 388) lecithin 0.25-3 v v Vv Banh Mi Rolls (page 61), Vegan Brioche (page 163) vital wheat gluten 0.5-11 v Vv Vv v Vv Rye Bread with 11.5% Gluten (page 238), Modernist Ancient Grain Bread (page 107) small amounts of fat 1-2 Vv ¥ Galliard Loaf (page 112), Pan de Cristal For more on where to buy, see pages 5-XXXVIII-XLIII. “Refers fo omount of vitamin. Supplements usually contain 0.5-19 vitamin C; calculate the number of capsules based on required amount. VOLUME 6: KITCHEN MANUAL (page 127), Ciabatta (page 113), Modernist Ciabatta (page 116) Converting Flours with Vital Wheat Gluten Although we don’t recommend trying to make bread with vital wheat gluten alone, you can use it to increase the protein content of low-protein orlow-gluten flours. We keep vital wheat gluten in the pantry as a handy tool for converting pastry flour or cake flour into bread flour when we find we're running short. The table below lists the amount of vital wheat gluten for various types and brands you must add to accomplish the indicated conversion, as a baker's percentage of the starting flour. Flour to convert Arrowhead Mills | Bob’s Red Mill ‘| Gillco Vital Hodgson Mill _ | King Arthur Flour Vital Wheat Vital Wheat Wheat Vital Wheat Vital Wheat Gluten, Gluten, 65% Gluten, 75% Gluten, 75% Gluten, 65% 77.8% cake flour (8% protein) to bread flour 6.5414 6.541% 5.51% 5.51 5.2718 (11.5% protein) = pastry flour (9% protein) to bread flour 4.6718 4.676 3.93'x 3.9310 3.778 bee protein) —| — = =| Pillsbury Best All-Purpose Flour (10% protein) to 2.8% 2.8% 2.36% 2.36% 2.268 Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Flour (11.5% protein) reall = + Gold Medal All-Purpose Flour (10.5% protein) to fi.ssw 1.861% 1.57%) 1.57%) 1.51% Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Flour (11.5% protein) bread flour (11.5% protein) to high-gluten bread 2.88% 18am 2.41% 2.418 2.3118 flour (13% protein) Strengthening Rye and Ancient Grain Flours When bakers want to make a loaf of bread with an ancient grain flour, such as einkorn, they must combine it with bread flour to avoid ending up with avery dense loaf. We had an even better idea: use the flour you want and simply make up for its shortcomings by adding vital wheat gluten. The extra protein increases the water absorption of flour, which is why vital wheat ‘i of vital wheat Type of flour gluten flour to add rye flour (light, medium, or dark) | 11.5 emmer 7.9 einkorn 5.8 durum 5.0 spelt ae Khorasan By FUNCTIONAL | gluten makes the crumb soft and more open. The logic of adding gluten to abread recipe is simple—and yet, it was a revelation to us when we added 11.51% vital wheat gluten to a 100%! dark-rye-flour bread. The dough then behaved like a wheat-flour dough in almost every respect. NGREDIENTS Best Bets for Easier Shaping and Handling The following ingredients work best with flatbreads, French lean doughs, and enriched doughs that often are difficult to stretch out, We do not recommend these for rye and whole wheat doughs. Ingredient Other forms Range (\X/) Recipe Source - : e c i For easier shaping — a = 3 7 F\ / microbial proteases 0.01-0,02 bakery ingredient purveyor i = (bacterial or fungal) an bromelain 0.0004-0.0006 Modernist Bagel, dietary supplement store —— pineapple juice 0.01-0.05 homemade | Adolph’s meat 0,01 grocery store —— tenderizer papain 0.01 online 4 — . _|papavaiuie 0.03 homemade actinidin online a kiwi juice 0.01-0.8 homemade — — glutathione 0.0005 Modernist Challah, dietary supplement store 2 page 181 | 3 deactivated yeast 0.25-1 grocery store a” L-cysteine 0.001-0.009 Modernist Hamburger _ bakery ingredient purveyor 1 ~ Buns, page 208; as Modernist Pretzel, page 382 — For easier handling ——" ; gelled water up to 401% Ciabatta with Gelatin, grocery store | using gelatin page 123 =| ! For more on where to buy, see pages 5-XXXVIII-XLIII. =" ae : — Working with Botanical Proteases rs Sourcing purified versions of enzymes can be difficult for artisan and home Second, fruits are a product of nature, and thus they are highly variable in j bakers. When we began testing other sources of proteases, we learned that quality and potency. We know that a ripe kiwi will taste sweet, and an unripe = | " certain fruit juices and other botanicals yield equally fantastic results. Juices Bs should be incorporated after the gluten has developed so that they don’t make the dough slack. Our recipes provide detailed instructions on how to use botanical proteases. Fruit juices are wonderful alternatives to commercial enzymes, but there are some drawbacks to working with them. First, like many other dough improvers, some fruit juices are so potent that they're practical only when you're making large batches of dough. Challah (%/) | Pita (1%) Naan (\3/) kiwi will taste somewhat tart. Plants develop sugar at particular times so that animals will be enticed to eat the ripe fruit and carry the mature seeds away. Enzymes work in the same way—a ripe kiwi contains more of the enzyme actinidin than an unripe kiwi does. There's no way to know exactly how much of an enzyme a particular fruit contains, so using fruit as a delivery vehicle for enzymes requires experimentation. Pretzel (14) | Recipes Modernist Challah, page 181 Se ee — 0.01 papaya juke, fresh 0.05 0.01 0.01 0.0005 one 0005 0. a ae Modernist Neapolitan Pizza Dough, page 330 Modernist Bagel, page 362 Modernist Pretzel, page 382 VOLUME 6: KITCHEN MANUAL Best Bets for Gluten-Free Breads Ingredient Range ({%/) Recipe butter upto60 |Gluten-Free Brioche (page 395) cocoa butter up to 60 nut milks (see page 401) 40-60 Gluten-Free Nut Milk Bread (page 400) aquafaba (see page 5-256) | 40-50 can be used to replace egg whites, but can give a slight beany flavor whipped egg whites 40-50 Modernist Nut-Milk Bread (page 402) coconut oil upto19 | Vegan Gluten-Free Brioche (page 398) vegetable oil up to 19 masa harina 10-15 Gluten-Free Bagel (page 365) chia paste (see page 409) =| 3-5 Modernist Nut-Milk Bread (page 402) flaxseed gel 23 ry seed snot* (see page 397) |2-3 transglutaminase 1-1.25 Gluten-Free Flour Blend (page 408) xanthan gum [0.751 lecithin [0.25-3 For more on where to buy, see pages 5:XXXVIN-XLIII. *Seed snot refers to the gooey substance that certain seeds produce when soaked in water (see page 397). Best Bets for Extending Shelf Life Recommended for Lean Rye Whole wheat Enriched Sandwich Ingredient Range (is!) breads breads breads breads _ breads Flatbreads Recipe : pregelatinized flour | 25-30 v Japanese Sandwich Bread (page 190) = hydroxypropylmethyI-| 0.4-0.6 Vv Modernist Pita (page 300) cellulose (HPMC) flaxseed paste 10-15 Vv Vv v v Vv Gluten-Free Nut Milk Bread (page 400) Panettone ( 165) fat Uptol00 ¥ v v Vv Vv v anettone (page Dimodan 0.5-1 v Vv sodium stearoyl 0.4-0.6 v V Modernist White Sandwich lactylate (SSL) Bread (page 187) lecithin 0.5-1 v Vv v v Vv v Eggless, Lactose-Free Brioche (page 162) For more on where to buy, see pages 5:XXXVII-XLIII. FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS

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Modernist Bread Vol. 06 Kitchen Manual The Cooking Lab PDF

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Preview Modernist Bread Vol. 06 Kitchen Manual The Cooking Lab

WMiODER NES BREAD I ' | [ - Kitchen Manual 6 81.6 are NN al Tost bt barb ba er ts es Volume & Kitchen Manual MODERNIST Sly me} or Ae Be Me ts ‘ye 4 hy yk Ea % Mi i Copyright © 2017 by The Cooking Lab, LLC All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective owners. The Cooking Lab 3150 139th Ave SE Bellevue, WA 98005 www.modernistcuisine.com ISBN: 978-0-9827610-5-2 First edition, 2017 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request Printed in China a — » — i < r r 7 : —__ | * — o— — = ee _| “| W _ = = ' = — a i a \gi i ‘al aa : : "1 DEC SSRN SE BREAD Nathan Myhrvold Francisco Migoya Photography by Nathan Myhrvold and The Cooking Lab Photography Team The Cooking Lab Table of Contents Recipe Notes ....sccsseccssssessssccsssssncsssssensnneennnes x CHAPTER 10: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS Best Bets for Increasing Volume.................. 2 Converting Flours with Vital Wheat Gluten... ase TREE Sengthening Rye and J Ancient Grain PHOS assess ssneoee pipetestisthtt Best Bets ay Easier Shaping wee Handling... eiopsursan Working with Botanical Proteases Best Bets for Gluten-Free Breads... Best Bets for Extending Shelf Life Best Bets for Modifying Texture .. Annp ep CHAPTER 11: INGREDIENT PREPARATION Soaking Grains How to Soak a Grain Grain Mash How to Make Grain Mash... Sprouted Grains inf 7 8 ee. 9 0) How to Sprout a Grain Cooking Grains How to Cook to Al Dente in a Pot Cooking Grains Until They Are Al Dente... 11 How to Cook to Al Dente or Pilafina Pressure Cooker Pressure-Caramelized Inclusions... How to Pressure-Caramelize Inclusions... Porridges oD How to Cook Porridges on the Stove...... 14 Cooking Grains to a Porridge Consistency. How to Pressure-Cook Porridge How to Cook Porridges Overnight How to Make Pregelatinized Flour........0+ Cooking Grains for Puree ...-.cscsssrsssssssressesss 17 CHAPTER 12: FERMENTATION Strategies for Incorporating Yeast . How to Bloom Dry Yeast Strategies for Using Preferments .. Strategies for Using Poolish..... How to Make a Poolish Strategies for Using Pate Fermentée., How to Make a Pate Fermentée .. Basic Levains... How to Start a Liquid Le Levain How to Start a “Sweet-and-Sour” Levain.... 24 Stiff “Sweet-and-Sour” Levain . Best Bets for Levains Tips for Levain Maintenance.... How to Use a Frozen Preferment CHAPTER 13: MIXING How to Perform a Four-Edge Fold.............- 26 CHAPTER 14: DIVIDING AND SHAPING How to Divide Your Dough ...,..ecssecsseesnteene 27 How to Use the First In, First Out (FIFO) Method siicssarsiessststevassssccscrscroesreststtearasts 27 How to Handle Wet Dough Using Gelatin How to Preshape and Shape a Boule The Square Method... The Tuck-In Method.. The Wonton-Shape Method How to Preshape and Shape a Batard . Simple Batard Shape Advanced Batard Shape . How to Preshape and Shape a Baguette...... 30 How to Shape a Ficelle .. How to Shape Fougasse.. How to Shape Brioche 4 Téte. How to Shape Brioche Nanterr How to Shape Flatbreads .. How to Shape Grissini (Breadsticks How to Shape a Pullman Loaf. How to Shape Bagels Pretzels How to Shape a Pretzel . How to Shape Pretzel Buns How to Shape Round Rolls... How to Shape Square Rolls... How to Shape Batard Rolls How to Shape Parker House Rolls How to Shape Cloverleaf Rolls . How to Shape Hoagie Rolls... How to Shape Kaiser Rolls... CHAPTER 15: FINAL PROOFING How to Proof at Room Temperature... Proofing Temperatures for Proofers.... Recommended Conditions for Cold PEO Of cescensssrricsssescrrnstiricesssveoserts 36 Professional Proofing ssssecsssssssssssvssecssssseeeeee 37, How to Proof with a Proofer (aka Proofer Cabinet or Proofing Box)............ pipet 37 CHAPTER 16: SCORING AND FINISHING How to Score Round Shapes... ef How to Score Oval and Elongated Shapes.. 38 How to Score a Baguette. How to Score Rolls......... How to Make Cornstarch Glaze ........ "i How to Make Our Favorite Starch Glaze... How to Make and Apply an Egg Wash......... 40 CHAPTER 18: BAKING Steamed Bread General Directions............. 41 CHAPTER 19: COOLING AND SERVING How to Freeze Bread .......sssessssssssessersenensens 41 CHAPTER 20: LEAN BREADS TGA BLAS cascssececscescurceesotoraycvesvoresesureesstsrens 42 Best Bets for Lean Bread Mixing and Baking....osssccossscsnssscsssssssnssoessesessneessnnsceees 42 Keys to Successfully Executing French Wear Breadsvrercrersrrecvinseserreercsrosssusonrteneett 43 Brenchy Peat Bread stccscercsccosrssesssesspeowetstosets 44 French Lean Bread Baking Times and Temperatures Modernist French Lean Bread A-Plus Baguette. Pain Rustique.... Your Daily Bread .. How to Make Your Daily Bread.. Direct Dough Loaves........... + 52, No-Knead Lean Bread............ moe) The Van Over Method for French Lean Bread . English Muffins. 301% Whole Wheat English Muffins. Modernist English Muffins 5 CUTE ES ooo, sernssecndervacssvosscsrecucerovares Seuaséesssoesss 57 Pressure-Caramelized Sunchoke French Lean Bread Nigoise Olives French Lean Bread . es Pumpkin Pie Filling French Lean Bread..... 8 Candied Chestnut Puree French Lean Raspberry Puree French Lean Bread.. Poi French Lean Bread Soy Sauce French Lean Bread... med Comté Cheese Water and Bacon French Lean Bread........... Rapshestesdtissadliacalteaen 59 Lean Dough with Raspberry Fluid Gel Toasted Flour Loaf French Lean Bread with Orange Juice......... 2018] Whole Wheat French Lean Bread...... Seeded French Lean Bread, Filone.. i i) a e “i a Banh Mi Rolls Sourdough.. Sourdough Baking Times and LOMPELALULES G seicivaipesavonersatel een vO 63 Keys for Successfully Executing Sourdough Making a Basic Levain.. Strategies for Using Levain Create Your Own Sourdough Recipe Modernist Sourdough Sourfaux Second-Chance Sourdough Lemon and Herb Pesto Sourdough... Hominy and Mole Sourdough Huitlacoche and Yellow Corn Sorutlletigite 272 Bosc Pear and Toasted Coconut Sourdough ,-sscncvorrteaeeenvenrensteradee 72 Cherry Pie and Chocolate Chip Souirdouiyhiwateethvtewmtere stercsseetteces. crepe ease 72 Pistachio Butter Sourdough... 72 Aji Amarillo and Roasted Purple Potato Sourdouphiwraeresmrsetrmecrtectaet 72 Matcha Green Tea Sourdough Parmesan Cheese Water Sourdough. Seawater Sourdough. S'mores Sourdough... Earl Grey Sourdough... Charcoal Sourdough... Pressure-Caramelized Wheat Berries Sourdough Ramen Sourdough ies Sourdough with Porridge ....csecsssessssersecssees 74 Sourdough with Seeds, Soakers, or Sprouted: Grain siesccsemerenmaneret 76 Chocolate and Cherry Sourdough............0.. 78 Black Currant Sourdough with Marcona WA Limi rid Gielen ceicolteresenlestnovovecuocteeneaee™ 79 Blackberry and Lemon Verbena SOU OU pba ecosvee crus tervereeetornrtscentanenerts 79 Pressure-Cooked Potato Broth Sourdough tiacserrsemanescrens cucerceceeated) How to Pressure-Cook Potato Broth Tomato Water Sourdough San Francisco Sourdough... Seattle Sourdough. Mantuan Bread How to Shape Mantuan Bread .. Multicolored Mantuan .....ssssesees Bozza Pratese Pain Brié de Calvados.. Durum Sourdough....... How to Score Durum Sourdough... Ammionite Bread sirassssssssnsaciesssansserconancgiaaret 7 Country-Style Bread..cssssssssssseersnneeeessseeees 88 Keys for Successfully Executing Country-Style Breads... 89 a 87 Country-Style Bread Baking Times and Temperatures .... Modernist Country Bread.. Direct Country-Style Bread.. Grain Count Sourdough Whole-Grain, Nut, and Seed Mix.... For 7-Grain-and-Seed Sourdough... For 21-Grain-and-Seed Sourdough. For 24-Grain-and-Seed Sourdough. For 35-Grain-Seed-and-Nut Sourdough..... 95 25(% High-Extraction Flour Bread ........s000 96 Whole-Grain Flour Country-Style Breads. Moddizzosu Bread.. Arizona Grain Loaf Spelt and Whole Wheat Ciabatta Ancient Grain Bread Ancient Grain Baking Times and Temperatures ...cssssessssscsrssssnsssssarsstonsosceee 104 Ancient Grain Flour and Inclusion Options Keys to Successfully Executing Ancient Grain Breads 60% Buckwheat Flour Sourdough.. % Modernist Ancient Grain Bread .......c..c0e00- Modernist Ancient Grain Bread Ingredient Options........cssecssecssesseseenes 108 Compleat Wheat i... crvucucasastrtienntia 109 Compleat Wheat Baking Times and Temperatures Galliard Loaf .. Ciabatta Ciabatta Baking Times and Temperatures... 115 Keys to Successfully Executing High Hydration Recipes.. Modernist Ciabatta Direct Ciabatta 90%) Hydration French Lean Bread... 100%%/ Hydration French Lean Bread 110% Hydration French Lean Bread 120{%/ Hydration French Lean Bread 90\4 Hydration Sourdough. 100% Hydration Sourdough Surfer Sourdough... pret Flour Blend Variations .. Ciabatta with Gelatin ... High-Hydration Dough with Gelled Water Cubes Potato Ciabatta ... Piquillo Pepper Ciabatta Orange Marmalade Ciabatta Apricot Ciabatta Mincemeat Ciabatta . Pressure-Caramelized Mushroom Ciabatta.... Vitello Tonnato Ciabatta.. Francese Whole Wheat Francese Levain Francese . Pan de Cristal..... Potato Pugliese... Potato Puree... Lentil Pugliese ........040. Refried Bean Pugliese Pugliese Modernist Pugliese Pressure-Caramelized Potato Pure CHAPTER 21: ENRICHED BREADS How to Apply an Egg Wash or Starch Glaze to Pan Loaves...cssesssssssssesecsssessnee 134 How to Make Clarified Butter and Brown Duttetinnaancicsteacvaiawveaeatoss “Sweet-and-Sour” Levain How Much Can You Fit in a Pan i Brlochie csteccccscrctepmaertrcitesteertssetercacstectarcomeeonte 136 Keys to Successfully Executing Brioche...... 138 Brioche Baking Times and Temperatures... 140 Brioche Flour Alternatives. Modernist Brioche 25% Butter Brioche. 75{M Butter Brioche. woe 142 eae 142, we 143, Babka Filling. Nutella Babka.... 100{%4 Butter Brioche 87{%i Hydration Brioche. 100% Hydration Brioche Smoked Brioche Speculoos Cookie Butter Brioche ... Purple Sweet Potato Brioche Roasted Golden Beet Brioche... Hazelnut Butter Brioche Corn Brioche cad to) sore 145 . 145 Mango Brioche Lychee Brioche Dashi Butter Brioche... Onion Butter Brioche Garam Masala Butter Brioch Butternut Squash Butter Brioche Herb Butter Brioche... Crustacean Butter Brioche Gingerbread Spice Butter Brioche... Bacon-Infused Schmaltz Brioche..... Foie Gras Brioche Foie Gras Brioche Dough. Foie Gras Mousse... 5 Pistachio Butter.......cssssssesssesessees perracnene e Brie-oche ........ Coconut Oil Brioche Animal Fat Brioche Brioche 4 Téte ....... Caul Fat Brioche............ Assorted Brioche Nanterre .. 50{% Whole Wheat Brioche No-Sugar-Added Brioche..... Mayonnaise Brioche.. Parmesan Brioche ...... Oil Brioche Olive Oil Brioche Pistachio Oil Brioche Hazelnut Oil Brioche.. Levain Brioche Levain Brioche 20% Butter: Levain Brioche 25 Butter ... Levain Brioche 501% Butter .. No-Knead Brioche... Sablée Brioche . Chocolate Brioche . Eggless Brioche Eggless, Lactose-Free Brioche . Vegan Brioche . Sally Lunn Panettone Keys to Successfully Executing Panettone Chocolate Panettone Faster Panettone...... Modernist Panettone Colomba Di Pasqua Colomba Di Pasqua Topping . Portuguese Sweet Bread King’s Day Bread Candied Orange Slices. Candied Kumquats Gateau Battu Keys to Successfully Executing Challah. Challah Baking Times and Temperatures... 180 100% Whole Wheat Challah.. Flavored Challah Schmaltz Challah... Ironic Challah ........ Modernist Challah Coconut Milk Challah . Sweet Potato Challah Hazelnut Praline Challah Fig Jam Challah... Quince Challah Spinach Challah Vegan Challah ..ssecccssssssesvee White Sandwich Bread...... Keys to Successfully Executing White Sandwich Bread sssccsscsbvessssstosisisbscseuiteats 185 White Sandwich Bread Baking Times and Temperatures Modernist White Sandwich Bread . Potato Sandwich Bread Pain de Mie...... Japanese Sandwich Bread. Two-Step Sandwich Loaf. Two-Step Recommended Combinations csscscecyecsrenvsseor-eesearecreveyseces Sweet Potato Sandwich Bread.. Apple Pie Sandwich Bread Potato and Bacon Sandwich Bread. Pressure-Caramelized Carrots Artichoke Sandwich Bread Praline Sandwich Bread. Onion Rye Loaf... Jewish Deli Rye Marbled Rye American Pumpernickel 10017 Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread. Ube Sandwich Bread Vegan White Sandwich Bread Cinnamon Raisin Bread Hawaiian Pineapple Sweet Bread. Salt-Rising Bread . Dinner Rolls... Parker House Rolls Round Parker House Rolls. Hamburger Buns 100{%? Whole Wheat Hamburger Buns Hot Dog Buns Modernist Hamburger Buns Pain Au Lait Buns Kaiser Rolls... Hoagie Buns.. 201% Whole Wheat Hoagie Buns , CHAPTER 22: RYE BREADS Rarmer‘s: Bread snes noiten ta itariiny 212 Farmer's Bread Baking Times and Temperatures sientvntresrveelrenaltivern teed, 214 Keys to Successfully Executing Farmer's Bread sarenonaainuniries Mme trent; 215 Modernist Farmer’s Bread... Direct Farmer's Bread a) x Tomato Farmer's Bread ..sssscessssessssesessseesseess 207 Pressure-Caramelized Garlic Farmer's Bread siiivwveritiearvescasssnnane Cashew Butter Farmer's Brea’ Pear Farmer's Bread jv... Hummus Farmer's Bread.............++ rrcorg nie Wf Apricot and Cherry Mostarda Rye Bread ... 218 Farmer's Bread with Figs. +218 Sauerkraut Rye 4 219 Finnish Rye Bread....sssssssvessssessssssseenneessreess 220 Finnish Rye Bread Baking Times and Temperatures . Basler Brot.. Landbrot. Landbrot with Pressure-Caramelized Cherries and Almonds ........sssseesseeseernens 223 St. Gallen Brot... Veal Parmesan Rye Bread Waldviertler Jausenlaiberl Pain au Seigle Pain de Méteil.... Jewish Corn Rye Black Pudding Sourdough. 48-Hour Rye Sourdough Bread .. Russian Rye Bread or Black Bread.. Onion Rye Levain. 100% High-Ryes.... 100{% High-Ryes Baking Times and GED EVACULES arecetstevesresseresbeteesscunerretistces 235 Keys to Successfully Executing 100{%! Rye Bread cree teeerenscesscoastsceesasccaaieaseaneteriserer eee 236 How to Shape High-Percentage Rye MPEEACS Seesesssadearisisunibsenromeay tang eeeereate 237 Free-Form Loave: Pan Loaves... Modernist 100{% High-Ryes Poached Quince and Cranberry Rye BY EA sssseaapsasscatsosvssraepsesatssvionisoortotyeonnesae® 239 Bryoche.., 240 Roggenbrot.. 241 Valais Bread. .. 242, Ruis Bread + 243 Pain Bouilli.. Pain Bouilli Baking Times and PVCMIPELATUNER sssaicansangeisanncinaantniter nei? 245 Tap aM NCL OA oo: scsnsssastonssboee nseasaissressdtiversaess iva 246 Hapanleipa Baking Times and Temperatures Frankenlaib. Wortekalensccrsessaczsssurscesusespsssiesiessns German Sunflower Seed Rye Bread..... 250 German Sunflower Seed Rye Baking Times and Temperatures Boston Brown Bread Boston Brown Bread Baking Times and Temperatures....... Odenwald Farmer's Bread... os 254 Geraterthrot se msasiusiessagaeent hh means S CHAPTER 23: BRICK-LIKE BREADS WholesGrain Loaf tinaiisanonnnnneins 250 Whole-Grain Loaf Baking Times and Temperatures siiivcssvsisssiers 257 Keys to Successfully Executing Whole-Grain Breads........csssssessesssesseeens 257 Microwave Whole-Grain Loaf .....cccssseee 258 Improving Volume for Breads that Contain Bran.. Grain Mash .... Modernist Whole-Grain Loaf, Wheat Beer, Sprouted Grains, and Toasted Seeds iWoalssentette.tetiesiveatdte 260 Toasted Pecan, Raisin, and Sesame Seed Loaf. . 260 Cranberry, Currant, Walnut, and Pistachio Mtoe ssositeceandauciastacd elearera estate oles 261 Hazelnut, Cocoa Nib, and Apricot Loaf with Spices .. 261 Vollkornbrot... Faster Vollkornbro’ 262 Vollkornbrot Baking Times and ARCMp CrAtuTes..sasssaceessmnsssesusestre,ceerevecstenen 264 Keys to Successfully Executing Vollkornbrot... - 265 Modernist Vollkornbrot.. . 266 Rugbrod . 268 Faster Rugbro: Dried Fruit Vollkornbrot.... Candied Fruit Vollkornbrot Toasted Nuts Vollkornbrot .... Pressure-Caramelized Grains, Nuts, and Dried Fruit Vollkornbrot ........eccese 269 Chocolate Chunks and Cocoa Powder Vollkornbrot. Pumpernickel... Keys to Successfully Executing Pumpernickel. Pumpernickel Baking Times and Temperatures ....sscscsnerresssensensonsenrensensese 271 Shorter Pumpernickel Baking Times and Tem peraturesiriisscsssssenrensnssascssyes Modernist Bavarian Pumpernickel.. Pumpernickel Raisin Bread. CHAPTER 24: FLATBREAD AND PIZZA NAAM sgeciessacssncarseasansasonnootneasoauarstestestersascannanenss 274 Naan Baking Times and Temperatures .......276 Keys to Successfully Executing Naan.........276 Modernist Naati....csssesssessessenernensen aianssakssnen ae OT 100{% Whole Wheat Naan Brioche Naan versssssessessseeone - Butter Chicken Spice Naan .. » 278 Black Garlic Naan... Roasted Piquillo Pepper Naan Herb Naan Cilantro Pesto Naam.....ssccsseesssssseenssanrenseneees Tomato Chutney and Nigella Seed Naan....279 Miatrialeaghssassasssvnsstsaiesssassncesterstiveetsereaatasss 280 Tonis Puri Malooga... Tigella Sheermal.. Obi Non... Bhatoora.. Ramazan Pidesi Sangak.. Mofleta Malawach Kubaneh . How to Shape Kubaneh How to Bake Kubaneh Keys to Successfully Executing Pita i Pita Baking Times and Temperatures.......... 300 How to Make Use of Stale Pita Modernist Pita Chimichurri Pita Bread ..... 10004 Whole Wheat Pita .. Beet Muhammara Pita Bread Spinach Pita Bread .....csecssnsscossccnesessecssaserssees Pressure-Caramelized Leek and Onion Pita Bread Scallion Pita Bread .. Pressure-Caramelized Butternut Squash Pita Bread 501%! Non-Bread Flour Pita .. Same-Day Pita .... Arabic Bread. Aish Merahrah.. Soft Lavash Jreesh... Air Bread Lavash Crackers 7" Lavash Baking Times and Temperatures... 309 Whole Wheat Lavash .......ss0seerseee0s nse Keys to Successfully Executing Lavash Modernist Lavash Crackers Pane Carasau... Carta da Musica.. Carta da Musica Baking Times and Temperatures Focaccia... Focaccia Baking Times and Temperatures.. 316 Keys to Successfully Executing Focaccia ....316 The Wide World of Focaccia Toppings Focaccia Oil Alternatives Direct Focaccia Modernist Focaccia . Sunflower Seed Focaccia Plantain Focaccia.. Pressure-Caramelized Onion Focaccia ....... 322 Calamansi Focaccia . Cassava Focaccia Tomato Focaccia.. Fugazzeta... 100{% Whole Wheat Focaccia . Fougasse.... Sfincione. z. Neapolitan Pizza Dough... Neapolitan Pizza Baking Times and Temperatufe .....sscsssssesssessessssessnersseansense 328 Dough Variations for a Wood-Fired 50% Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Same-Day Pizza Dough..... Pizza Toppings one The Process of Preparing Your Cheese....... 329 Keys to Successfully Executing Pizza Modernist Neapolitan Pizza Dough.. New York Pizza Dough New York Pizza Baking Times and Temperatures ......secssecssssesnsenecrsenneonsensens Sicilian Pizza Dough No-Knead Pizza Dough... High Bubble Count Pizza Dough... Compleat Wheat Neapolitan Pizza Onion Pizza Dough Tomato Pizza Dough Spinach Pizza Dough Potato Pizza Dough inB39 Roasted Garlic Pizza Dough c Mushroom Pizza Dough... 339 Tomato Sauce.. Garlic Knots.... Calzone.......0+ nsksahscsvaeosiaisas Calzone Filling Options .. Flatbread Dough Base Armenian Meat Pie Armenian Sausage Pie . Ground Meat, Onion, and Parsley Pie Balloon Bread. How to Cook Balloon Bread , Beet Balloon Bread... Parsley Balloon Bread... Saffron Balloon Bread . DOBaisisssrsesenrsooseosonssxaninn Keys to Successfully Executing Dosa Modernist Dosa Dosa in a Waffle Iron Dosa in an Aebleskiver Pan... Teff Injera Sorghum Injera Modernist Teff Injera . Kendichebrritd ciscsscsssicssssascssnessscssssesvenaseliastspsavas 353 Kniackebréd Baking Times and Temperatures Modernist Knackebrad .. 1001 Whole Wheat Grissini CHAPTER 25: BAGELS, PRETZELS, AND BAO 358 359 . 360 wee 360 Poon we 361 + 361 Bagel Keys to Successfully Executing Bagels Bagel Baking Times and Temperatures... Garnishing Bagels Starch Slurry Coating... How to Bake a Bagel on a Board Steamed Bagel Z Modernist Bagel seee 362 Piquillo Pepper Bagel tas SOF Huitlacoche Bagel . woes 364 Spinach Bagel +o 364 Fig Bagel oe 364 Blueberry Pie Bagel eOOS Coconut Bagel eos: Bagel Shaping Variation peaOS Gluten-Free Bagel... ++ 365 Fried Bagel... 365 1001 Whole Wheat Bage 366 Onion Bagel ..... 366 + 366 -- 366 ++ 366 soe 367 -- 367 + 368 .- 369 . 370 oT ence iis 374 Patna ey Country-Style Bagel ... Cinnamon Raisin Bagel. Walnut Bagel Marbled Bagel. Montreal Bagel Pumpernickel Bagel Rye Bagel Levain Bagel .. Bialy.... -- 376 Bialy Baking Times and Temperatures........ 377 Pretzel........ wuerveavrevrssesrresbrvavsbeetresdecentesseerasbesee 378 Pretzel Baking Times and Temperatures..... 379 Shaping Nontraditional Pretzels.....cssccssee- 380 How to Shape Pretzel “Kaiser” Rolls....... 380 How to Shape Corkscrew Pretzels..,....... 380 How to Shape Plaited Pretzels . .. 380 How to Shape Tie Buttons..... 380 How to Shape Scissor Pretzels . 380 Keys to Successfully Executing Pretzels...... 380 How to Bake the Best Pretzel.......:essccereeree 381 Dipping Pretzels in a Baking Soda Solution Modernist Pretzel ..... How to Shape Pretzel Buns How to Shape Stuffed Pretzels.. Filling and Topping Recommendations.. 385 Poblano Pepper and Corn Pretzel Roll Pistachio) Pretzel 20 3-scssisessscnsseasseousuassn - 386 Banana Pretzel... Cherry Pretzel.... Nicoise Olive Pretzel... Red Cabbage Pretzel... 100{%! Whole Wheat Pretzel .. Steamed Buns Steamed Buns Steaming Times... 389 Keys to Successfully Executing Steamed Modernist Steamed Buns (Mantou) Shaping Steamed Buns.... How to Shape Mantou. How to Shape Folded Mantou How to Shape Bao (Filled Buns) ............ How to Shape Yin Si Juan (Silver Thread Bun)... i How to Shape Hua Juan (Flower Bun). Mango Mantou.... Strawberry Mantou Scallion Mantou.. Pandan Mantou.... Black Garlic Mantou.. Tahini Mantou CHAPTER 26: GLUTEN-FREE BREADS Gluten-Free Brioche... Earl Grey Brioche Gluten-Free Brioche Baking Times and Temp eraturesarcestermcnerecscrerreteerrestteers 396 Keys to Successfully Executing Gluten-Free How to Smooth the Top of a Gluten-Free Dough. How to Make Soy Milk.. How to Make Whey Water... How to Make a Seed-Based Thickener....... How to Make Free-Form Gluten-Free Loaves iarassiteratim antetaieintee tee Vegan Gluten-Free Brioche Nut-Milk Bread Nut-Milk Bread Baking Times and Temperatures... How to Make Nut Milks Best Bets for Nut and Grain Milks .. Modernist Nut-Milk Bread Whey and Quinoa Bread ....ssssessserseersseesreeeee Gluten-Free Whole-Grain Loaf Idli.... Idli Steaming Times and Temperatures ...... 407 Gluten-Free Flour Blend .........::ssscsssseseevenes Chia-Seed Paste .......++0+ Chia-Seed Egg Replacer.. CHAPTER 27: BREAD-MACHINE RECIPES Basic Bread-Machine Bread .....s-+sssessereeneree 410 Olive Oil and Rosemary Bread-Machine Cheddar Cheese, Jalapefio, and Corn Bread-Machine Bread.........:ssseseseseessseneee How to Bake in a Bread Machine How to Shape Bread-Machine Brioche How to Shape Bread-Machine Challah Bread-Machine French Lean Bread Modernist Bread-Machine French Lean Bread. Bread-Machine Sourdough .. Modernist Bread-Machine Sourdough. Bread-Machine Focaccia Bread-Machine Brioche Modernist Bread-Machine Brioche... Bread-Machine Challah. Modernist Bread-Machine Challah..........-. Bread-Machine White Sandwich Bread......414 Modernist Bread-Machine White Sandwich Bread Bread-Machine Farmer’s Bread... Modernist Bread-Machine Farmer's Bread.. Bread-Machine Landbrot. ee Modernist Bread-Machine Landbrot.......... 416 Bread-Machine Whole-Grain Loaf... Modernist Bread-Machine Whole-Grain NGG AL ss copes oasonagros snapocennesstnisesacosspeamertentenatta 416 Bread-Machine Vollkornbrot......--:.sesssee0 416 Modernist Bread-Machine Vollkornbrot .... 416 Bread-Machine Bavarian Pumpernickel...... 418 Bread-Machine 100% High-Ryes.. Modernist Bread-Machine Bavarian Pumpernickel... Modernist Bread-Machine 1001 High-Ryes .... Unconventional Ovens. BASIC RECIPES Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock..........+ 422 Brown Veal Stock Cheese Stock. Best Bets for Cheese Stock... Modernist Béchamel.. Beef Rib Pastrami : teat Mac and Cheese... Browned Onions.. Curry Beef Filling yin 24) Bread Spices + 426 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds.... 426 Tomato Contr ayesnininiie 426 Broccoli Raab Pizza wes 427 +427 e427 +1427 oe 427 + 428 428 +2 428 +429 + 429 ++ 430 ++ 430 425 + 425 Capicola Pizza.. Finocchiona Pizza... Genovese Pizza Uovo Pizza Apricot-Cherry Mostarda Gellan Gum Raspberry Fluid Ge Agar Raspberry Fluid Gel. Marzipan.... Pine Nut Marzipan .. Pastry Cream Buttermilk Icing = Salt We recommend using fine crystal salts because the smaller the crystals are, the faster and RECIPE NOTES a) . =| more effectively th ill di ; F : basal : 5 of . 5 —— | y they will disperse and dissolve in the dough. Use fine salt or table salt. This overview provides tips for each step of the bread-making tips on how to prepare specific types of bread, see the Keys to — ia es srocess, from preparing the ingredients to cooling the bread. Successfully Executing the Recipes sections in the intros of the Ss ie sa t his Peluso ese eaernne ae ae p ss, from preparing t g ; ; . “ "f te ratew different brands so that you can convert Iso include substitutions tor ce i ‘ents such as salt recipe chapters. You'll also find a breakdown of our recipe for: n.. ee alae We also include substitutions for certain ingrechemts suc p se =. = ee dalle Fak ay ae aah : 5 ie adam “map eer po cil ——_ mately, we recommend weighing your ingredients. La Baleine Sea Salt (fine) 16.63 g x Fora ive li ; | [m4 pny comprehensive list of salt conversions, AAA Fan Kieditamanean 16.33 = se 2306. <a Sea Salt (fine) General Most of our recipes will have close to 2M salt. The Morton Table Salt (iodized) | 18.23 g The total times in the recipes do not include a gram, like salt and yeast. It helps to have If you are using the volume measures forthe the time required to prepare the ingredients before mixing the dough. The exception to this rule is when you make custom levains or preferments that take an extended period of time to prepare, such as the levain in the Teff Injera (see page 350) or the first dough in the Panettone (see page 165). In these cases, the total time includes the time it takes to make these preferments. The active time may increase slightly depend- ing on how long it takes to scale the ingre- dients ar add them to a bowl. We list the machine mixing time in the dashboard because we recommend that method for mixing most doughs. Ingredients We highly recommend weighing all the ingre- dients for our recipes. This is the best way to achieve consistently successful results. In some of our recipes, you will notice that some ingredients are measured in tenths of Flour We prefer to use the brands of flour listed be- low. if these are not readily accessible, use the bread flour that is available to you. Bread Flour Central Milling Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Pius Flour (unbleached and malted): 11.5% protein King Acthur Sir Galahad Flour: 11.7% protein Gold Medal Better for Bread: 12% protein Whole Wheat Flour King Arthur Unbleached White Whole Wheat Hlowr: 13% protein a precision scale to weigh these types of ingredients with accuracy. For amounts this small, you can mix powders in with the flour or dilute liquids in the water portion of the recipe. This will help them to disperse evenly. Ingredients that require less precise amounts, like flour and water, are rounded to the near- est gram. The smallest volume measurement in the recipes is Yis tsp. Measure Y tsp and divide the amount in half to obtain Yc tsp. We designed a specific symbol (i!) so that you will know when an ingredient is measured in baker's percentage. The majority of the recipes list the ingredient percentages by baker's percentage (i%/). When the primary ingredient is not flour, the ingre- dients will be listed by scaling percentage (see page 2-68). In the rare case that a recipe’s ingredients are listed in baker's percentage but the recipe has a component with scaling percentage, the scaling percentages in the ii column are omitted. King Arthur Premium 100% Whole Wheat Flour: 14% protein High-Gluten Flour Central Milling Organic High Mountain: 13.5% protein King Arthur Sir Lancelot High-Gluten Flour: 14.2% protein Notall brands of flour are standardized to the same protein content. Some companies will call a flour with 11.9% protein “all-purpose” flour while another brand will categorize a flour with 11.7% protein as “bread flour” (see page 2242). Look on the flour bag’s label or dry ingredients in the recipes, measure the volume first, and then sift the ingredient. Net Contents The net contents table will give you a break- down of whats in the dough. The table's entries may not always match up identically with the ingredient list. Certain multicom- ponent ingredients will be broken down into their major components (water, sugar, fat, and starch) and then added to others like it to provide you with a grand total of the primary ingredients in the dough. For example, in the Brioche net contents table on page 136, you'll see an entry for water even though there is no water listed in the ingredient list. The water that the milk, eggs, and butter contribute is what makes up the water in the net contents table. The same principle applies to the fat and sugar in that table. Note that although the recipe contains 36.4719 milk, itis not accurate to say that the recipe is 36.471 hydration. The net contents table shows that the dough is actually 59.531 hydration. Do not use all-purpose flour unless it is specified. If the recipe calls for high-gluten flour and you only have bread flour, you can always add vital wheat gluten to it (see page 3). If the recipe calls for whole wheat flour, we recommend our technique for re-creating “whole wheat” flour on page 109, This will allow you to make a bread with a higher volume than one made with regular whole wheat flour. exception is dough that is 90{%/water or above. These doughs require 2.5{i salt on average due to the additional water content. Yeast The most important goal when mixing any kind of yeast into a dough is to disperse it evenly so that it can achieve its full fermenting power. The second objective is to fully hydrate the yeast cells (if using dry yeast). Osmotolerant yeast is used for enriched doughs that contain sugar. Sugar produces a high osmotic pressure environment in the dough and steals water from the yeast (see page 2:281). Osmotolerant yeast is a strain that does well in these types of environments because it was bred for sweet doughs. If you use this yeast in nonenriched breads, it might take a little longer to proof than a dough made with instant dry yeast. We recommend blooming instant yeast in the water or milk, which will help disperse the yeast very effectively throughout the dough. The water temperature will vary, but it is usually between 18 and 24°C/ 65 and 75°F. Milk is kepta little colder, at 4°C/39 °F. Eggs, Milk, and Butter A large egg weighs an average of 50 g, with the whites making up 30 g and the yolks 20 g. To determine the volume measures for eggs, we divided the total weight of the Use the table below to convert measurements of one type of yeast into another. These conversions are based on weights of yeast, not volume measures. Our recipes are based on instant yeast, so if you don’t have that on hand, you'll use the conversions to figure out how much yeast to use. Original yeast | For instant, For active dry, For fresh, type multiply by multiply by instant 3 Sugar You should always use granulated sugar when we call for “sugar” in the ingredient list. egg in the recipe by 50 g and rounded to the closest number of whole eggs so that there is no waste. We generally recommend using cold eggs and cold milk because they are mixed into enriched doughs, which often need a long mixing time to reach full gluten development. The mixer friction can heat the dough to undesirable temperatures. If using powdered lecithin, use half the amount of the liquid lecithin called for in the recipe. We used unsalted butter with 82'%/-831 fat to formulate the recipes. In many of the recipes in this book, itis best to add the butter to the dough when it is room Diastatic Malt Powder Many flours are malted, which means they have a small amount of diastatic malt powder (DMP) added to them. These flours will have an enhanced amylase count, which means that there is more sugar for the yeast to consume. We add a small amount of DMP to doughs with long fermentation times even if we Gold Medal Whole Wheat Flour:13.3% protein °" the miller’s website to see if they list the protein content. “ - Central Milling Organic Whole Wheat Hi-Pro om ther P Fine Hour: 14% protein are using malted flour. This ensures that the yeast temperature so that it is pliable and easy to mix. : will never run out of food. Ifyou cannot find DMP (see Resources, pages 5-XXXVII-XLIID, you can replace it with amylase. This can be purchased from home brewing equip- ment and ingredient shops (they call it amylase enzyme). Use 1 part amylase for every 50 parts DMP. xi Preferments The Strategies for Using Preferments table on page 19 shows you the world of preferments ata glance. Use it as a quick reference to see the basic characteristics and composition of each preferment. It's also a time-management tool so you can successfully plan your dough production schedule. in the recipe and then autolyse, even if it is a commercial yeast-based preferment. This produces the largest volume in the loaves of bread mixed in the shortest period of time. The one exception is pate fermenteée. This prefer- ment needs no further gluten development, so it should be mixed into a dough once it has reached medium to medium-full gluten devel- if you are autolysing your dough, you can mix the preferment in with the water and flour Mixing The doughs are always mixed using the hook attachment unless other- wise specified. ifthere aren't enough ingredients for the dough hook to mix them well, use a paddle attachment initially to get all the ingredients uniformly mixed. Once you have a homogeneous mass, switch to a hook attach- ment. If your bakery is at or around 21°C /70°F, you can use water at that temperature to mix into the dough. In that case, there is really no use in calculating desired dough temperature (DDT). This is unusual, however, for a production environment. When your bakery or kitchen is hot, you will need to know how cool your water needs to be so that the dough doesn’t get too hot while mixing. When your bakery is on the cooler side, you will need to mix your dough with warm water. Ifyou do have to calculate DDT, see our formula and worksheet on opment only (see page 3-89). How long a dough needs to mix will depend the type of dough, type of mixer, and environmental conditions. The mixing times we provide for each dough are averages that may need to be adjusted based on your mixer and your kitchen. Shaggy mass describes the dough after you have mixed the flour and water (and possibly the yeast or a preferment) to a crude mass. The ingredients cannot be identified separately from each other, but you do not a have a smooth dough. Mixing to a homogeneous mass is when the dough is in a cohesive form that is less lumpy and has more body but not really any significant gluten development. Whatever machine you use, always make sure to start on the lowest speed, lest you be wearing the ingredients instead of making a dough pages 3-92-93. Ifyou are cold-proofing your dough or bulk fermenting it for an extended period of time at room temperature, DDT isn’t as crucial to measure because the dough will equilibrate to these temperatures. Bulk Fermentation You should bulk ferment the doughs at room temperature, covered, unless otherwise directed. All folds in the recipes are four-edge folds unless otherwise noted. When hand mixing, we typically mix toa lower gluten development and then develop the gluten during folding. When machine mixing, the dough is usually mixed to a more with them. Slowly increase the speed as the dough begins to forma homogeneous mass. If you are mixing doughs by hand, as long as your water is at room temperature, DDT is not relevant, Your hands will not produce enough friction to overheat the dough. Shaping advanced stage of gluten development with Because doughs with high hydrations (7518 fewer folds and a shorter bulk fermentation and above) are more fluid than solid, it is time. challenging to handle them if you have little We usually recommend 6 four-edge folds Ms a ets sana Leu during bulk fermentation for hand-mixed ane orbandiine these types ol dove fein. (see page 3-144). _ For additional tips on dividing and sh: If your dough is fermenting too quickly dur- vat dousty sexpage sas ing bulk fermentation, refrigerate it. Final Proofing Make sure to keep the dough covered if proofing at room temperature or cold-proofing (see page 3-212). You can leave a dough uncovered ina proofer. Generally, levain-based doughs can be proofed at 27 °C/80 °F for 2-3h or at room temperature (21 °C/70 °F) for 3-4 h. Commercial yeast-based lean breads proof faster, between 45 min and 14 h at 27 °C/ 80 °F or 1-2 hat room temperature. Enriched doughs take 2-3 h at 27 °C/80 °F or 3-4 hat 21 °C/70 °F. Baking The recipes will indicate with a green star which are the ideal ovens to bake in, but if you have a different oven, see pages 3-360-363 and page 3-372 for our tips on how to bake in each oven. We recommend a combination cooker (see page 3-376) if you are baking inahome oven. It will produce the highest volume and best color, plus it will produce its own steam in the self-contained environment (see page 3:305). The ideal loaf weight for these combination cookers is 850 g. Cooling Always allow your bread to cool thoroughly before consuming. You can almost always cold-proof dough, especially levain-based doughs. Our favorite time and temperature combination is 13 °C/ 55 °F for 14h. This requires a proofer-retarder or a wine refrigera- tor, though (see page 3-229), You can also cold-proof these doughs at 4 °C/39 °F for 12-16 h (or more; see our 72-hour sourdough on page 3-227). If using a baking stone, place it ona rack just below the center of the oven. This will keep the bread in the center of the oven. The majority of breads will scorch on the bottom if using a baking steel. The exception is flatbreads or if you are baking breads in a combi oven. Ina deck oven, keep all the dough evenly spaced out for even heat flow. Make sure to apply steam as soon as you close the door. Most of our breads are best consumed within 24 h of baking. If you don’t think you'll eat the loaf within that period, we recommend you wrap and freeze a portion of the bread (see page 41). Breads like sourdoughs and rye breads last for up to 2-3 d (see page 3-417). xiii Best Bets for Increasing Volume Recommended for Whole Range Lean Rye wheat Enriched Sandwich Ingredient Otherforms () breads breads breads breads breads Recipes HM pectin | 2-2.5 v v v v v pumpkin 05-1 v v v v v | powder GENU pectin 0.6-1.2 v v Vv v v irescatote amylase 0.01-0.05 v diastatic 2 Vv New York Pizza Dough (page 332), | malt powder Balloon Bread (page 346) ascorbic acid 0.001- v 0.2 French Lean Bread (page 44), Your Daily SP Bread (page 51), Ancient Grain Bread vitamin C 0.001- Vv (page 102) supplements 0.2* sodium stearoyl 0.4-0.6 Vv Modernist White Sandwich Bread lactylate (SSL) (page 187) diacetyl tartaric acid 0,2-1 ] ester of mono- glycerides (DATEM) polysorbate 80 (PS80) 0.1-0.3 propylene glycol ~ 0.25-0.5 Modernist Steamed Buns (Mantou) alginate (PGA) = (page 390), Steamed Buns (page 388) lecithin 0.25-3 v v Vv Banh Mi Rolls (page 61), Vegan Brioche (page 163) vital wheat gluten 0.5-11 v Vv Vv v Vv Rye Bread with 11.5% Gluten (page 238), Modernist Ancient Grain Bread (page 107) small amounts of fat 1-2 Vv ¥ Galliard Loaf (page 112), Pan de Cristal For more on where to buy, see pages 5-XXXVIII-XLIII. “Refers fo omount of vitamin. Supplements usually contain 0.5-19 vitamin C; calculate the number of capsules based on required amount. VOLUME 6: KITCHEN MANUAL (page 127), Ciabatta (page 113), Modernist Ciabatta (page 116) Converting Flours with Vital Wheat Gluten Although we don’t recommend trying to make bread with vital wheat gluten alone, you can use it to increase the protein content of low-protein orlow-gluten flours. We keep vital wheat gluten in the pantry as a handy tool for converting pastry flour or cake flour into bread flour when we find we're running short. The table below lists the amount of vital wheat gluten for various types and brands you must add to accomplish the indicated conversion, as a baker's percentage of the starting flour. Flour to convert Arrowhead Mills | Bob’s Red Mill ‘| Gillco Vital Hodgson Mill _ | King Arthur Flour Vital Wheat Vital Wheat Wheat Vital Wheat Vital Wheat Gluten, Gluten, 65% Gluten, 75% Gluten, 75% Gluten, 65% 77.8% cake flour (8% protein) to bread flour 6.5414 6.541% 5.51% 5.51 5.2718 (11.5% protein) = pastry flour (9% protein) to bread flour 4.6718 4.676 3.93'x 3.9310 3.778 bee protein) —| — = =| Pillsbury Best All-Purpose Flour (10% protein) to 2.8% 2.8% 2.36% 2.36% 2.268 Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Flour (11.5% protein) reall = + Gold Medal All-Purpose Flour (10.5% protein) to fi.ssw 1.861% 1.57%) 1.57%) 1.51% Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Flour (11.5% protein) bread flour (11.5% protein) to high-gluten bread 2.88% 18am 2.41% 2.418 2.3118 flour (13% protein) Strengthening Rye and Ancient Grain Flours When bakers want to make a loaf of bread with an ancient grain flour, such as einkorn, they must combine it with bread flour to avoid ending up with avery dense loaf. We had an even better idea: use the flour you want and simply make up for its shortcomings by adding vital wheat gluten. The extra protein increases the water absorption of flour, which is why vital wheat ‘i of vital wheat Type of flour gluten flour to add rye flour (light, medium, or dark) | 11.5 emmer 7.9 einkorn 5.8 durum 5.0 spelt ae Khorasan By FUNCTIONAL | gluten makes the crumb soft and more open. The logic of adding gluten to abread recipe is simple—and yet, it was a revelation to us when we added 11.51% vital wheat gluten to a 100%! dark-rye-flour bread. The dough then behaved like a wheat-flour dough in almost every respect. NGREDIENTS Best Bets for Easier Shaping and Handling The following ingredients work best with flatbreads, French lean doughs, and enriched doughs that often are difficult to stretch out, We do not recommend these for rye and whole wheat doughs. Ingredient Other forms Range (\X/) Recipe Source - : e c i For easier shaping — a = 3 7 F\ / microbial proteases 0.01-0,02 bakery ingredient purveyor i = (bacterial or fungal) an bromelain 0.0004-0.0006 Modernist Bagel, dietary supplement store —— pineapple juice 0.01-0.05 homemade | Adolph’s meat 0,01 grocery store —— tenderizer papain 0.01 online 4 — . _|papavaiuie 0.03 homemade actinidin online a kiwi juice 0.01-0.8 homemade — — glutathione 0.0005 Modernist Challah, dietary supplement store 2 page 181 | 3 deactivated yeast 0.25-1 grocery store a” L-cysteine 0.001-0.009 Modernist Hamburger _ bakery ingredient purveyor 1 ~ Buns, page 208; as Modernist Pretzel, page 382 — For easier handling ——" ; gelled water up to 401% Ciabatta with Gelatin, grocery store | using gelatin page 123 =| ! For more on where to buy, see pages 5-XXXVIII-XLIII. =" ae : — Working with Botanical Proteases rs Sourcing purified versions of enzymes can be difficult for artisan and home Second, fruits are a product of nature, and thus they are highly variable in j bakers. When we began testing other sources of proteases, we learned that quality and potency. We know that a ripe kiwi will taste sweet, and an unripe = | " certain fruit juices and other botanicals yield equally fantastic results. Juices Bs should be incorporated after the gluten has developed so that they don’t make the dough slack. Our recipes provide detailed instructions on how to use botanical proteases. Fruit juices are wonderful alternatives to commercial enzymes, but there are some drawbacks to working with them. First, like many other dough improvers, some fruit juices are so potent that they're practical only when you're making large batches of dough. Challah (%/) | Pita (1%) Naan (\3/) kiwi will taste somewhat tart. Plants develop sugar at particular times so that animals will be enticed to eat the ripe fruit and carry the mature seeds away. Enzymes work in the same way—a ripe kiwi contains more of the enzyme actinidin than an unripe kiwi does. There's no way to know exactly how much of an enzyme a particular fruit contains, so using fruit as a delivery vehicle for enzymes requires experimentation. Pretzel (14) | Recipes Modernist Challah, page 181 Se ee — 0.01 papaya juke, fresh 0.05 0.01 0.01 0.0005 one 0005 0. a ae Modernist Neapolitan Pizza Dough, page 330 Modernist Bagel, page 362 Modernist Pretzel, page 382 VOLUME 6: KITCHEN MANUAL Best Bets for Gluten-Free Breads Ingredient Range ({%/) Recipe butter upto60 |Gluten-Free Brioche (page 395) cocoa butter up to 60 nut milks (see page 401) 40-60 Gluten-Free Nut Milk Bread (page 400) aquafaba (see page 5-256) | 40-50 can be used to replace egg whites, but can give a slight beany flavor whipped egg whites 40-50 Modernist Nut-Milk Bread (page 402) coconut oil upto19 | Vegan Gluten-Free Brioche (page 398) vegetable oil up to 19 masa harina 10-15 Gluten-Free Bagel (page 365) chia paste (see page 409) =| 3-5 Modernist Nut-Milk Bread (page 402) flaxseed gel 23 ry seed snot* (see page 397) |2-3 transglutaminase 1-1.25 Gluten-Free Flour Blend (page 408) xanthan gum [0.751 lecithin [0.25-3 For more on where to buy, see pages 5:XXXVIN-XLIII. *Seed snot refers to the gooey substance that certain seeds produce when soaked in water (see page 397). Best Bets for Extending Shelf Life Recommended for Lean Rye Whole wheat Enriched Sandwich Ingredient Range (is!) breads breads breads breads _ breads Flatbreads Recipe : pregelatinized flour | 25-30 v Japanese Sandwich Bread (page 190) = hydroxypropylmethyI-| 0.4-0.6 Vv Modernist Pita (page 300) cellulose (HPMC) flaxseed paste 10-15 Vv Vv v v Vv Gluten-Free Nut Milk Bread (page 400) Panettone ( 165) fat Uptol00 ¥ v v Vv Vv v anettone (page Dimodan 0.5-1 v Vv sodium stearoyl 0.4-0.6 v V Modernist White Sandwich lactylate (SSL) Bread (page 187) lecithin 0.5-1 v Vv v v Vv v Eggless, Lactose-Free Brioche (page 162) For more on where to buy, see pages 5:XXXVII-XLIII. FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS

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