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The London School of Economics and Political Science Mixing and its challenges: an ethnography of race, kinship and history in a village of Afro-indigenous descent in coastal Peru Tamara Hale A thesis submitted to the Department of Anthropology of the London School of Economics for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, London, June 2014 Declaration I certify that the thesis I have presented for examination for the MPhil/PhD degree of the London School of Economics and Political Science is solely my own work other than where I have clearly indicated that it is the work of others (in which case the extent of any work carried out jointly by me and any other person is clearly identified in it). The copyright of this thesis rests with the author. Quotation from it is permitted, provided that full acknowledgement is made. This thesis may not be reproduced without my prior written consent. I warrant that this authorisation does not, to the best of my belief, infringe the rights of any third party. I declare that my thesis consists of 91,637 words. Statement of use of third party for editorial help I can confirm that my thesis was copy edited for conventions of language, spelling and grammar by Eona Bell. 2 In Latin America, politics is the water you swim in. —Olivia Harris To her memory 3 Abstract This thesis, based on 16 months of ethnographic fieldwork, is about ordinary Peruvians of mixed African slave and indigenous descent. It shows that villagers in Yapatera, northern Peru, have responded to contradictory historical forces through everyday practices of ‘mixing’. Villagers live in a society that officially downplays the significance of race while it simultaneously discriminates against non-white ‘others’. The thesis finds that villagers reject the ethnic (‘Afro- Peruvian’) and racial (‘black’) labels cast upon them by outsiders, and instead illustrates how villagers are engaged in a variety of social practices and local narratives which stress the cultural, social, religious, political and economic integration of the community into the local region, and which seek to de- emphasise its potential ethnic distinctiveness. ‘Mixing’ permeates through villagers’ ideas and practices relating to human physiology, procreation, descent, marriage, personhood, historicity, religion, place-making, local politics, and relations with the state. However, mixing is ultimately a fragile project. ‘Race’, as a social divider, reappears often in the very practices or domains where mixing occurs. Mixing itself can be understood as an attempt to overcome thinly-veiled local racist discourses. It is also an attempt to negotiate oneself out of the very undesirable category of ‘black’, and as such it bears continuities with historical social practices. Mixing is not so much an outright resistance to racism, nor is it a straightforward appropriation of nationalist ideologies. Instead mixing is to be understood as an alternative form of knowledge: an autochthonous attempt to engage with these external forces. By bridging the gap between Andean anthropology and the study of Afro-descendants in a variety of disciplines, the thesis helps fill a gap on mestizaje as a form of lived experience. By highlighting the central role of kinship in ideas and practices of mixing, it also indicates the wider implications of mixing for anthropological theory. 4 Contents Abstract..................................................................................................................4 List of Figures........................................................................................................7 Acknowledgements................................................................................................8 Note on Translations, Figures and Pseudonyms..................................................10 Glossary...............................................................................................................11 Introduction..........................................................................................................14 A historic apology........................................................................................................14 No more dolphins!.......................................................................................................16 Yapatera on camera, Yapatera off camera...................................................................18 Negritud vs. negrura....................................................................................................20 The village of Yapatera...............................................................................................24 The Hacienda Yapatera................................................................................................27 Arriving in Yapatera and methods...............................................................................30 Outline of the chapters.................................................................................................34 Chapter I. Mixing, race and ethnicity in historical and regional perspective......37 In the Lima mansion....................................................................................................37 Historical constructions of difference..........................................................................39 Race and ethnicity in contemporary Latin America....................................................44 Afro-indigenous relations, mixed people and others...................................................48 Ethnic despecification..................................................................................................51 Heterogeneity and mixing in kinship and marriage.....................................................54 Mixing, race and ethnicity in Peru...............................................................................56 Racism in Peru.............................................................................................................62 Peruvian slavery and manumission.............................................................................65 Afro-Peruvian ethnic mobilisation..............................................................................70 A note on the absence of ‘identity’..............................................................................74 Chapter II. A folk theory of race: Mixing, categorisation and racial essentialism .............................................................................................................................78 Fernando’s cumanana..................................................................................................78 Overview of racial/colour terms..................................................................................80 Racism.........................................................................................................................84 A folk theory of race....................................................................................................90 Race and social categorisation.....................................................................................97 Despecification and mixing as a historical process...................................................102 Essentialism and experimental tasks.........................................................................105 Design of Custom Task 1..........................................................................................108 Design of Custom Task 2..........................................................................................110 Results of Custom Task 1..........................................................................................111 Results of Custom Task 2..........................................................................................112 Discussion of results..................................................................................................113 Conclusion.................................................................................................................115 5 Chapter III. Carried in the heart: Surnames and bilaterality in kinship, marriage and personhood..................................................................................................118 Tumba, Urpi, Cazombon...........................................................................................118 Double surnames: natural, civilised and good to think with.....................................120 Bilateral descent and marriage...................................................................................129 Carried in the heart: bilateral ideology and logic......................................................137 Bilateral personhood..................................................................................................142 ‘Bilateral race’ in Yapatera........................................................................................145 Conclusion.................................................................................................................148 Chapter IV. Keeping their tombs warm: Remembrance practices, sociality and the saint-like dead..............................................................................................151 Negros veletos: fanciful blacks..................................................................................151 Engaging with uncertainty.........................................................................................155 The work of remembering.........................................................................................159 Exchange and sociality..............................................................................................169 The saint-like dead.....................................................................................................176 Conclusion.................................................................................................................183 Chapter V. Sugar Ruins and Rotting Mangos: Hacienda, agrarian reform and becoming peasants.............................................................................................186 Historical ruptures.....................................................................................................186 Sugar ruins and rotting mangos.................................................................................189 The time of the hacienda...........................................................................................192 Abuse and defiance on the hacienda.........................................................................195 Slavery and mixing....................................................................................................200 From peons to owners................................................................................................202 Yapatera’s ‘ugly stories’............................................................................................205 Freedom means drinking on Mondays......................................................................210 Beggars sitting on a bench of gold............................................................................214 Migration and mixing................................................................................................217 Conclusion.................................................................................................................218 Chapter VI. ‘Yapatera the future district’: The troublesome process of making one place out of two...........................................................................................222 A camp of Moors.......................................................................................................222 Yapatera was a district before....................................................................................225 The ‘future district’ proposal.....................................................................................231 Village consolidation.................................................................................................234 Like Samaria to Jerusalem.........................................................................................237 The water and sewage project....................................................................................245 Conclusion.................................................................................................................249 Conclusion: Mixing as a fragile project.............................................................251 Appendix............................................................................................................260 Significance test for Custom Task 1..........................................................................260 Significance test for Custom Task 2..........................................................................260 Bibliography......................................................................................................261 6 List of Figures Figure 1. Map showing the principal areas of settlement of Peruvians of African descent..........12   Figure 2. Map of state of Piura......................................................................................................13   Figure 3. Satellite image of Yapatera............................................................................................13   Figure 4. Participants in the Afro-Peruvian pottery project...........................................................23   Figure 5. Race pyramid..................................................................................................................45   Figure 6. Three cousins..................................................................................................................94   Figure 7. A ‘mixed’ family............................................................................................................95   Figure 8. Sample formulation of Custom Task 1.........................................................................109   Figure 9. Sample formulation of Custom Task 2.........................................................................111   Figure 10. Results of Custom Task 1...........................................................................................112   Figure 11. Results of custom task 2.............................................................................................113   Figure 12. Double surname transmission pattern........................................................................121   Figure 13. The ritual of Agua del Socorro...................................................................................143   Figure 14. Father teaching his son how to velar..........................................................................155   Figure 15. Man burning candles to remember his mother...........................................................162   Figure 16. Recuerdos on the wall, on a household altar and near a television............................168   Figure 17. Woman and her children serving the food for the compartir.....................................172   Figure 18. The compartir outside the house................................................................................173   Figure 19. Woman ‘crowning’ the grave of her grandson...........................................................174   Figure 20. Velaciones aided by electric light...............................................................................175   Figure 21. Members of the religious fraternity carrying a Christ figure out of the church.........178   Figure 22. Farmer bringing mangos home from the chacra........................................................188   Figure 23. The old sugar factory..................................................................................................191   Figure 24. Twin chimneys of the factory.....................................................................................192   Figure 25. The old casa hacienda................................................................................................194   Figure 26. The old motor powering Yapatera’s well...................................................................195   Figure 27. Children rest on the cepo during a cultural event.......................................................200   Figure 28. Farmer with his organic mango trees.........................................................................209   Figure 29. Men enjoying a domingo chiquito..............................................................................211   Figure 30. Campesino shelling maize with the help of sons and nephews..................................213   Figure 31. Miss Mango Festival, Winner of the Silver Mango, Miss Morropón Province, and the Winner of the Silver Mango, 2011..............................................................................................214   Figure 32. Welcome sign at the entrance to Yapatera.................................................................225   Figure 33. Map depicting the village of Yapatera as the capital of the ‘future district’..............233   Figure 34. Detail from map of the Hacienda Yapatera, dated 1961............................................243   Figure 35. Detail from map of ‘future district’............................................................................244   Figure 36. Satellite image of Yapatera........................................................................................245   Figure 37. Population growth in Yapatera 1940-2007................................................................248   Figure 38. Statue of a campesino on Yapatera’s main square.....................................................252   Figure 39. The repainted statue....................................................................................................253   7 Acknowledgements This research was made possible by an Economics and Social Research Council Studentship (ES/G017964/1). Additional funding was provided by an International Culture and Cognition Institute grant and a LSE Student Support grant. I am very grateful to these institutions for the opportunities provided. My thanks go to the good people of Yapatera, who generously shared with me the substance of their lives: espero que haya dejado el nombre de Yapatera en alto. While I have chosen not to name the friends, neighbours, and acquaintances who helped me, in order to protect their anonymity, I carry all their names in my heart. The sense of pride that many Yapateranos expressed in my project and their incomparable sense of humour got me through the most difficult parts of fieldwork. Thank you, Chabaquito for ensuring my safety and for making my work fruitful. In particular, I want to thank my host mother in Yapatera, a remarkable woman and friend, who intuitively knew just what I needed and when. I am very grateful to Taba, whom I regretfully never met, but who provided my entry in to Yapatera and whose name opened many doors for me. To the rest of my host family, thank you for your kindness, generosity and protection. Thank you to Abelardo who included me in his many projects and to Fernando for sharing his cumananas and more. In the event that this thesis makes it back to Yapatera, I would like to take this opportunity to disclose that while you told me so much about your lives and your loved ones, I felt unable to tell you the truth about mine. Peru is a country where gays and lesbians like myself still live in fear. I made the decision to protect myself by going, reluctantly, back into the closet. This has caused me pain; I hope you understand. This research project has a back story in the years I spent living in and visiting Chiclayo. I owe more to Sonia Arteaga and Lucho Rocca of the Afro-Peruvian Museum in Zaña than I can explain. Their friendship, dedication, generosity, patience, open- mindedness, and vision has inspired me beyond words. Sonia, thanks for hammering home the point that afros are andinos. Lucho, thanks for reminding me to look beyond the obvious, to look at mixture as well as blackness. I thank Carolina Dominguez Guzmán, for teaching me how to live in Peru, to be guerrera and how to love Peru; thanks to the whole Dominguez Guzmán family for all their support and kindness over the years. In Karlsruhe, Germany, I thank Hilda Gálvez whose stories sparked my initial fascination with Peru. I was fortunate to be supported and encouraged by a large number of individuals in Peru. In Piura I thank Bruno Revesz and Jorge Requena (CIPCA), Chabela Ramos (Casa Museo Almirante Miguel Grau), Lucho Gulman and his family, Henry Stewart, Maria Zúñiga del Riofrío and Carlos Arrizabalaga Lizárraga (UDEP). In Chulucanas I thank everyone at the Diocese, Ricardo Rivas Pizarro, Carlos Espinoza León and Raúl- Estuardo Cornejo. In Lima I thank Joanna Drzewieniecki, Alejandro Diez Hurtado and Wilfredo Ardito (PUCP), Humberto Rodriguez Pastor, Bertha Balbín, Nestor Valdivia and Martin Benavides (GRADE), Cynthia Sanborn (Universidad del Pacífico) and Lucy Harman. I am especially indebted to James McDonald and Elke Zapff, for their hospitality and generosity. To Oswaldo Bilbao and Newton Mori (CEDET), Monica Carrillo of Lundú, and the many other passionate and engaged activists with whom I had the pleasure of speaking, I thank them for their interest and openness. At the LSE, Rita Astuti is the kind of supervisor I would wish for any PhD student; she truly listens and engages. And then she asks very difficult questions—but ones which cut past all the fluff, to the heart of the matter, and help bring out the best thinking. Rita has also gone above and beyond as a friend: thanks for the moral support, the fabulous meals, the walks with Dapple, and for inviting me, and my family, into your home. 8 Without Olivia Harris’s coaxing I would probably not have returned to the LSE to pursue a PhD, nor would I have developed this particular research project. With Olivia’s sudden death I was forced to reach out for help and I discovered how lucky I am to form part of such a large group of people she inspired. When I write, I do so with her in mind, and I find myself trying to retrace so many of her ideas and questions, wishing more had made it to print. At Manchester I thank Peter Wade, for taking me on as his student after Olivia’s passing. I have benefitted tremendously from his vast command of Latin American anthropology, his expertise on race, ethnicity and Latin Americans of African descent, and from his pragmatic advice and encouragement. At LSE I also wish to thank all my fellow PhD students, the many rotating members of the writing up seminar and my fellow inhabitants of ‘the cave’ for their friendship and intellectual engagement. I especially thank Amy Penfield, my kindred spirit in this doctoral-plus-maternal endeavour, for all the laughs we have shared. The department of anthropology has been a wonderful intellectual home through all these years; I am grateful to all those who read and commented on parts of my work: Catherine Allerton, Charles Stafford, Mathijs Pelkmans, Véronique Bénéï, Matthew Engelke and all those who provided feedback at the Friday Morning Seminar. Maurice Bloch and Johnny Parry have been inspirational teachers since my undergraduate days. I am grateful to Yanina Hinrichsen and all the other administrators in the department who have taken such excellent care of all of us. Various forms of guidance and encouragement were also provided face-to-face or via email by scholars in the UK and beyond. Rachel O’Toole has been particularly engaged and I have found her historical research on Peruvians of African descent thoroughly illuminating. I am grateful for advice provided by Magnus Course, Jakob Schlüpmann, Frank Salomon, Harry Sanabria, Dennis Gilbert, Peter Gose, Irene Silverblatt, Donna Goldstein, Susan Gelman and Gil Diesendruck. I also thank all the participants, panellists and convenors in conferences and workshops who have provided valuable feedback on my emerging research. In London I thank Robin Pharoah, Becky Rowe and Will Norman, my colleagues at ESRO but above all my friends, for letting me go and for cheering me on. Thanks to Alice Kadri, for going through thick and thin with me, and to Sarah Gottlieb, because we became Londoners together. I thank my family for all their emotional support, especially Shirley and Bob for taking care of Dominique so wonderfully while I wrote. I am also indebted to Lisa Baker for her help with babysitting. My grandfather, Ernst Münker, did not live to see this work finished; if he had, he might have held it in his hands and perhaps finally believed that I had been up to something worthwhile all these years. I thank my father Eckhard Münker for offering his support and believing in me. Thanks to my mother Niko Hale, my father Holger Barunke, and my grandmothers Sandy Hale and Adele Hale for giving me the travel bug. To my daughter Dominique, who arrived on the scene when this project had already taken substantial shape: thank you for showing me what life is really about. And finally, but most importantly, to my wife Cheri Tatem-Hale, whose love, humour, patience and intuition have been the anchor of this thesis and its author for the last five years. For coming to Yapatera and London, I thank you. Thank you for saying to me things like, ‘great things are never perfect’. 9 Note on Translations, Figures and Pseudonyms All translations, diagrams and photographs are my own, unless otherwise specified. To protect my informants’ anonymity I have used pseudonyms throughout. I have not used a pseudonym for my research site. My discussions of local history and geography make the village easily identifiable as Yapatera. 10

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Mixing and its challenges: an ethnography of race, kinship and history in a The thesis finds that villagers reject the ethnic ('Afro-. Peruvian') and
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