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Minnesota 100 years ago, described and pictured by Adolf Hoeffler PDF

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Preview Minnesota 100 years ago, described and pictured by Adolf Hoeffler

MR. MC DERMOTT is professor of English in Washington University, St. Louis. He identified as Hoeffler's work the narrative here reprinted and its illustrations some time before the Minnesota Historical Society acquired a group of the artist's original sketches. We are presenting his Minnesota impressions exactly a century after they were recorded. Minnesota VO \j Years As^o Described and pictured by ADOLF HOEFFLER Edited by JOHN FRANCIS McDERMOTT OF THE MANY ARTISTS who roamed the 1849 and was there at the time of the great Mississippi Valley in the middle decades of fire in May. the last century sampling the strangeness During the summer he ventured up the of life on the frontier and examining the Mississippi to Fort Snelling, a great point beauties of its scenery probably the least of attraction to tourists and to artists, and known is Adolf Hoeffler. Yet when the full to St. Paul, capital of the new Territory of story of his years in America is eventually Minnesota. There he painted portraits of pulled together he may prove one of the Mrs. Alexander Ramsey and her child, for most interesting recorders of what was then which on October 18 the governor paid him western America. fifty dollars. On October 24, Ramsey noted Born in Frankfurt on Main, Germany, in in his diary, Hoeffler left Minnesota on the 1825, the son of Heinrich Hoeffler, a paint "Dr. Franklin No. 1" for St. Louis.^ er, he studied under his father and other That he had kept busy during those artists of Frankfurt until 1847. After a tour months in the North is suggested by Imlf of Switzerland, Italy, the Tyrol, and a peri a dozen signed and dated pencil and water- od of further study in Diisseldorf, he left color sketches recently acquired by the for America, arriving at New Orleans on Minnesota Historical Society. Among them December 7, 1848.^ In the United States he followed the ^ Hoeffler returned to Europe in 1853, settled in Frankfurt in 1856, and lived there until his death typical career of the itinerant artist, paint in 1898. Biographical facts are from Ulrich Thieme ing portraits for a living while he filled his and FeUx Becker, Allgemeines Lexicon der Bilden- sketchlyooks with impressions of the land den Kiinstler, 17:191 (Leipzig, 1924), and from scape through which he passed. He went the Hoeffler family through the courtesy of Pro fessor Albert W. Frenkel of the University of Min up the Mississippi by steamboat to St. Louis nesota and Mrs. Helmut J. Sieverts of Thiensville, and presently moved on to Belleville, Illi Wisconsin. nois. After some months in that neighbor " The Ramsey Diary for 1849 is owned by the hood studying English and doing portraits, governor's granddaughters, the Misses Anna and Laura Furness of St. Paul; the Minnesota Histori he went back to St. Louis in the spring of cal Society has a copy. 112 MINNESOTA History are two views of Fort Snelling, done on August 2 and 4, which show the post from the east bank of the Mississippi below the Minnesota. Two others made on both sides of a single sheet of paper on August 10 and 12 picture the Falls of St. Anthony from the west bank. A fifth sketch, done in Sep tember, is a view of St. Paid taken from .some distance below on the east bank. The Little Falls, as Minnehaha was then known, is the subject of the sixth picture dated 1849. A handsome water color of the Falls portrait painting enough money to finance of St. Anthony from the east bank —the a summer of traveling to sketch landscape. most finished picture in the entire collec It was probably on a visit to New York tion — is undated, but may belong to Hoef early in 1850 that he submitted to the fler's first visit to Minnesota.^ American Art Union a view of the Falls of The painter's itinerary next took him up St. Anthony. According to the catalogue the Ohio to Cincinnati, where he made a description "the principal part of the com short stay, and then on to Pittsburgh, Balti position is taken up by the river. In the more, and Philadelphia. Early in 1850 Jic distance are the Fcdls. The sky is covered was working in Trenton to accumulate by by thick drifting clouds." From this de scription it seems possible that the water " Twelve of the society's Hoeffler pictures — si.\ color of the falls from the east bank, men for 1849, five for 1852, and one undated — were tioned above, served as the original for the purchased for the society in the spring of 1952 by a oil.'' group of its friends. They were obtained from the artist's granddaughter, Mrs, Hilde Jaspert of The following year two more of Hoeffler's Oberursel an Taunus, Germany, The story of their upper Mississippi landscapes were accepted acquisition was reported in the Minneapolis Sunday by the American Art Union. Number 6, as Tribune for May 11. Ed. "' In the distribution of the pictures in December, listed in the Bufletin for October, 1851, 1850, this landscape, number 179, went to Alfred represented Fort Snelling; in it "the river Mosher of Stanfordville, New York, None of the is seen by evening light. On the broad table Hoeffler pictures acquired by the Art Union has land on the right are the buildings of the been located. Autumn 1952 113 fort, while beyond lie a line of hills." The ONE OF THE most interesting and im other oil (number 21), a view of St. Paul, portant portions of our country, whether shoived "in the foreground a promontory, viewed in the light of its past his tory, its present progress, or its fu with Indian wigwams. The river flows ture destiny, is that region which through the picture between low banks." embraces the Upper Mississippi and its All three canvases measured twenty by higher tributaries, known as the Minnesota twenty-seven inches. Territory. It has a history coeval with the Hoeffler's next explorations were to the narratives of Marquette, Hennepin, La south, a trip which he extended in October Salle, and other French explorers of the and November, 1851, to Cuba. The only great Lake Country, a century and three result known today is an article entitled quarters ago. Its fertility is exuberant; its "Three Weeks in Cuba. By an Artist" in climate, many months of the year, delight Harper's New Monthly Magazine for Janu ful, and never very changeable; its indus ary, 1853. Since three of the twenty wood trial resources are vast and abundant; and cut illustrations bear Hoeffler's signature as the promises of future glory, as one of the delineator and since the author identifies States of our Confederation, which its pres other sketches as his own, it is safe to as ent progress and the great movements of sume that both text and illustrations were society reveal, are full of beauty, grandeur, Hoeffler's. and beneficence. Its soil, capable of sus taining a population of eighty millions of It is merely as the author of "Three inhabitants is most agreeably diversified in Weeks in Cuba" that Hoeffler is identified its external aspect by hills and vales, lakes in connection with another narrative pub and rivers, vast rolling prairies and mag lished in Harper's for July, 1853. This is of nificent forests. In appearance and re double interest for Minnesotans, since in it sources, Minnesota has properly been called he records both in pen and pencil his im the New England of the West.^ From its pressions of the upper Mississippi on a bosom gush forth the fountains of great second trip to the region, made in the fall rivers which flow into the Atlantic, at points of 1852. With it appear seventeen wood almost the length of the Continent apart — cuts based upon the artist's own drawings. some through Hudson's Bay, some through Six views in the Minnesota Historical So the chain of great lakes and the St. Law ciety's collection of Hoeffler sketches are rence, and some through the Mississippi signed and dated 1852 —one in September and the Gulf of Mexico. and five in October.^ Additional pictorial records of the 1852 trip —views of Fort This region was once the broad land of Snelling from Mendota and of the Missis the powerful Sioux, through which flows sippi as seen from the post —are owned by the Upper Mississippi and the Mi-ni-so-tah the State Historical Society of Wisconsin ° A view in pencil of St. Paul, sketched from the at Madison. heights above the territorial capitol in October, Hoeffler's "Sketches of the Upper Missis 1852, was presented to the Minnesota Historical Society in August, 1952, by St. John's Abbey at sippi," as he called the second article pub Collegeville, through the courtesy of the abbot, lished in Harper's, is a simple and vivid the Right Reverend Baldwin Dworschak. The narrative that recreates for us today the abbey received the picture from Mrs. Jaspert in Minnesota the artist saw exactly a century 1948, as a token of appreciation for food packages sent to her family after the close of World War ago. In the following reprint, sections that II. Ed. merely summarize upper Mississippi Valley ° E, S, Sejanour, who visited Minnesota early in history have been omitted, but all that the summer of 1849, entitled his travel book Hoeffler set down of his own observations Sketches of Minnesota: The New England of the West (New York, 1850). There is evidence that of the Minnesota country in the autumn of Hoeffler drew a number of his "facts" from this 1852 is presented. volume. 114 MINNESOTA History GALENA, Illinois, in 1852 (turbid water), piously named St. Peter HOW I GOT to Rockford, in Illinois, where by the French missionaries, , , , the raflway from Chicago ended, is of little The Minnesota Territory was established consequence. Until then nothing had in 1849, and St, Paul, then a hamlet of a marred the pleasure of my journey; all had few houses (eight mfles by land below the been comfort and convenience. During Falls of St, Anthony), was made its capital. thirty-six hours after leaving that terminus, That hamlet, which even yet is on the bor all was mud and misery. Jupiter Pluvius ders of civilization in that direction, is mak seemed to have upset his watering-pot; and ing rapid strides toward the population and into the rickety stage-coach, crowded and dignity of a city; and the Territory will soon ill-ventilated, the rain trickled in little tur have its sixty thousand legal claimants to bid streams, , , , We reached Galena at an the title of a sovereign State of the Con hour past midnight; and it was ten in the federation, To that land, until lately so dark, morning before wearied limbs, and more mysterious, undefined, and almost unknown, wearied eyelids were aroused to the enjoy I went, with pencil and portfolio, in the ment of a warm breakfast within, and the autumn of 1852, to gaze upon its scenery, glorious sunshine without. The storm- and wonder at the receding tribes which clouds had rofled away to the prairies of still linger, mere tenants at will, upon the Ilhnois, or their homes on the lakes; and borders of the Mi-chi-si-pic and Mi-ni-so- over the hflls of Galena and the majestic tah, and to transfer to paper, as aid to forests across the river, the sun and the rain memory in future years, many things that had scattered diamonds and rubies, em might seem noteworthy, I here offer a few eralds and sapphires, in profusion, , , .'^ of these jottings to the reader who, bride We left Galena in the morning — a warm, groom-like, must take them upon trust, "for serene, and altogether lovely morning. The better or for worse," and prove their faith headlands of the narrow and sinuous Fever fulness by future experience. River soon placed Galena out of sight; and after brushing the dew from many an over hanging tree with our wheel-house for al ' The view of Galena and other woodcuts repro most an hour, we left the narrow stream, duced herewith are fro.m Harper's New Monthly Magazine, 7:177-190 (July, 1853), Two little pic and were ffoating upon the bosom of the tures showing "A Furnace" and a "Sketch of the mighty Mississippi, I now beheld the Father Lead Region" were probably done at Galena during of Waters for the first time, and the impres Hoeffler's day's wait for a boat. Several paragraphs describing the town are omitted. sion of its grandeur as its turbid volume Autumn 1952 115 came rolling on in a still but stayless cur rent from the far off wilderness, more than a thousand miles away, can never fade from '*tz memory. The aspect of the scene changed every moment as we glided by the beauti ful islands, heavily wooded headlands, picturesque bluffs, beautiful green slopes, neat hamlets, and thriving villages. Our first landing-place was at Dubuque, a town of Iowa, twenty-six miles from Galena, . . . At sunset we passed Cassville, a finely- located town, but lying almost inert under the incubus of a speculating monopoly. Under more propitious circumstances it may become a large town. During the night, we passed many interesting spots upon the shores of Wisconsin and Iowa, and THE Falls at peep of day we were greeted with the of St. Anthony sight of the pretty village of Prairie du from the Chien, lying upon the river margin of the east bank charming plain of that name, about four miles above the mouth of the Wisconsin River. The prairie is ten miles in length, and three in width, inclosed by bold bluffs sweeping in majestic curves around its borders, like the shores of a lake. Here was Sacs and Foxes under Black Hawk. It was an early French settlement, and in its vi the decisive stroke. Many warriors, and cinity are rich copper-mines. Immediately their wives and children, were slain; the south of the village is Fort Crawford, a great chief and his brother were made United States military post, erected in 1819, prisoners; and the war ended.^ but now unoccupied.^ Here the Mississippi Our second night voyage brought us at presents a perfect labyrinth of islands, daylight to Praurie du Crosse [La Crosse], crowned with cotton-wood and willows, another of those beautiful plains which and festooned with vines, forming a scene abound along the Wisconsin shore of the highly picturesque and beautiful. Mississippi. It is a most lovely prairie, three We did not tarry long at Prairie du Chien. miles in width and fifteen in length, level Three hundred miles of our voyage was yet as a floor, and was formerly a place of great unaccomplished. The beautiful and pictur resort for the Indians to enjoy their favorite esque scenery continually increased in at game of ball-play. It now contains many tractiveness as we ascended the river, and the monotony of mere sight-seeing was re- " There were resident traders at Prairie du Chien heved by occasional historical associations. as early as 1779. For the early history of the town Toward evening we passed the famous consult Peter Lawrence Scanlan, Prairie du Chien, French, British, American (1937). Fort Crawford battle-ground of the Bad-Ax, five miles was begun in 1816, and the troops were removed below the mouth of the Bad-Ax River, in 1849. See Bruce E. Mahan, Old Fori Crawford where the last battle of the "Black Hawk and the Frontier (Iowa City, 1926). War" was fought between the United States 'The statement about the battle of Bad Axe is compressed from Seymour, Sketches of Minnesota, troops under General Atkinson, and the 72. 116 MINNESOTA History French and German settlers, and the nucle ing the appearance of Cyclopean towers, us of a large town. Here is to be the ter grand old castles in ruins, and grotesque mination of a railway from Chicago, by way figures of undefinable shape. These cliffs of Milwaukie, and across the State, In anti rise to an altitude sometimes of six hundred cipation of this result of enterprise, quite a feet; and being highly colored by the variety flourishing village has already burst into of materials of which they are composed, bloom from the little bud of a few years of crowned often with lofty pines, and clumps gentle growth, i** of birch and chestnut-trees, and hidden be After leaving Prairie du Crosse, the scen low by dense forests of oak, they have a ery changed from the mere beautiful and mysterious beauty and magnificence hardlv picturesque to an aspect of grandeur. On to be described. The hand of culture has each side of the river arose lofty bluffs — not yet approached their vicinage, and some rocky, and some alluvial — present- those magnifiicent creations of nature stand there in all the solitary grandeur of the early centuries, before even the ancestors " Settlement at La Crosse began about 1841. Eb- enezer Childs, who settled there in 1852, declared of the Indian tribes came to the Great its population then was 116 and in 1858 about River. 6,000. See his "Recollections of Wisconsin since Just at dawn we passed Holmes's Landing 1820," in Wisconsin Historical Collections, 4:194. " Wabasha's village was on the present site of and the beautiful prairie of Wapasha. We Winona, Holmes Landing, wliich is incorrectly were now within the boundaries of Minne placed in Minnesota in the caption for one of sota, and this prairie was yet the habitation Hoeffler's illustrations, is the present Fountain City, Wisconsin, At this point, the Mississippi forms the of Wapasha (Red Leaf) and his Sioux state boundary. band." I never beheld a more charming Autumn 1952 117 silvan picture than this prairie presented; words reproached her friends for their and I could well understand the feelings of cruelty to the hunter and her own heart. the sorrowful Winnebagoes when, in 1819, She then commenced singing her dirge. The relenting parents, seeing the perff of their while on their way to strange homes in the child, besought her to come down, and take deeper wilderness, they stopped here, her hunter-lover for a husband. But the raised the war-whoop, and determined to maiden too well knew the treachery that go no further. But Messrs, Bullet and was hidden in their promises, and when her Bayonet from Fort Crawford persuaded dirge was ended, she leaped from the lofty them that the arid plains of Nebraska were pinnacle, and fell among the rocks and more delightful than the cool shadows of shrubbery at its base, a martyr to true affec Wapasha's prairie.i- tion. Superstition invests that rock with a voice; and often-times, as the birch canoe TOWARD NOON we entered that grand glides near it at twflight, the dusky pad- expansion of the Mississippi, called Lake dler fancies he hears the soft, low music Pepin. Its width is from three to five miles, of the dirge of Winona.^^ and its length about twenty-five. It is desti Late in the afternoon we saw the top of tute of islands, and all along its shores are La Grange [Barn Bluff at Red Wing] and high bluffs of picturesque forms, crowned at sunset passed the upper entrance of Lake with shrubbery, and commingled with dense forests. The white man has not yet Pepin to the narrow river above. The scen made his mark upon Lake Pepin and its ery became less picturesque along those surroundings; and there lay its calm water, lower shores, and the coming on of night and yonder uprose its mighty watch-towers was not so much regretted as on the pre in all their primal beauty and grandeur. vious evening. We passed Lake St. Croix High above all the rest loomed the bare during the darkness, and at sunrise arrived front of the Maiden's Rock, grand in nature, at Kaposia, or Little Crow village [South and interesting in its romantic associations. St. Paul], a few miles below St. Paul. There It has a sad story to tell to each passer-by; I first saw an exhibition of that strange and as each passer-by always repeats it, custom of the Sioux, of laying their dead, I will not be an exception. It is a true tale wrapped in blankets of bright colors, upon of Indian life, and will forever haUow the high scaffolds, instead of burying them in Maiden's Rock, or Lover's Leap. Listen. the earth. Several of these airy sepulchres, with flags waving from long poles over Winona, a beautiful girl of Wapasha's them, were seen a little in the rear of the tribe, loved a young hunter, and promised village, and gave me the first deep impres to become his bride. Her parents, like too many in Christian lands, were ambitious, sion that I was really in the midst of pagans. and promised her to a distinguished young '• The Winnebago removal took place in 1848, warrior, who had smote manfully the hos not 1819; the principal reinforcements were troops tile Chippewas. The maiden refused the from Fort Snelling; the new reservation was at hand of the brave, and clung to the fortunes Long Prairie, Minnesota. For a firsthand account by John S. Robb of St. Louis, see John Francis of the hunter, who had been driven to the McDermott, ed., "A Journalist at Old Fort Snel wilderness by menaces of death. The in ling," in Minnesota History, 31:211-216 (Decem dignant father declared his determination ber, 1950). to wed her to the warrior that very day. ^ Many versions of the Maiden Rock legend were in circulation. In the very summer of 1852 a The family were encamped upon Lake river captain told a traveler that he certainly Pepin, in the shadow of the great rock. should be able to give the "correct" version, be^ Starting like a frightened fawn at the cruel cause "there is an old fellow lives down here on the shore who has told it to me more than twenty announcement, she swiftly climbed to the times — and never twice alike." Missouri Republi summit of the cliff, and there, with bitter can (St. Louis), August 31, 1852. 118 MINNESOTA HistOTy SOON AFTER LEAVING Kaposia, the water, and already there is a strife for whole panorama of St. Paul and the ad supremacy between the "upper" and "low jacent scenery burst into view, as we pas er" towns. The first sale of government sed a headland; and in the midst of a motley lands there took place in 1848, and the crowd we landed at the capital of the Min ground upon which St. Paul is built was p,urchased in 1849, for the government price nesota Territory. St. Paul is one of the — one dollar and a quarter an acre.^* An hundred wonders of America. Here, five idea of the wonderful changes in progress years ago, were only a few log huts; now there may be obtained by reading the fol there is a large and rapidly growing village lowing eloquent passage from the last An of almost four thousand white people, with nual Message of Governor Ramsay [sic!] handsome public buildings, good hotels, to the Territorial Legislature of Minne stores, mills, mechanics' shops, and every sota: ^^ other element of prosperity. St. Paul is upon "In concluding this my last annual mes the north (or left) bank of the Mississippi, sage, permit me to observe, that it is now which here flows in an easterly direction a little over three years and six months from the mouth of the St. Peter. The central since it was my happiness to first land upon portion of the viflage is upon a beautiful the sofl of Minnesota [May 27, 1849]. Not plateau, almost a hundred feet above the far from where we now are, a dozen framed river; the remainder is chiefly near the houses, not all completed, and some eight or ten small log buildings, with bark roofs, " The site of St. Paul was included in the area constituted the capital of the new Territory opened to settlement by the treaty of 1837. The over whose destiny I have been commis first group of settlers arrived two years later. See sioned to preside. William W. Folwell, A History of Minnesota, 1:219, 223 (St. Paul, 1921). For a more detailed "One county, a remnant of Wisconsin ter description of the village at the time Hoeffler saw ritorial organization, alone afforded the or it, see Ehzabeth F. EUet, Summer Rambles in the dinary facilities for the execution of the West, 74-85 (New York, 1853). laws; and in and around its seat of justice ^' Ramsey's last annual message as territorial governor, from which the passage that follows is resided the bulk of our scattered popula quoted with slight variations, was delivered on tion. Within this single county were em January 26, 1853. It was printed both as a separate braced all the lands white men were privi pamphlet and in Minnesota, House lournal, 1853, p. 68-75. leged to till; while between them and the INTERIOR view of Fort Snelling Autumn 1952 119 %•• 'it^' DETAIL of Fort SnellinP from the north ^__ -t. ,^,.,,^l«'.:;l^±y'''-^ ,'-5^ '*^ FORT Snelling and Mendota • (1 broad rich hunting grounds of untutored "To my lot fell the honorable duty of tak savages rolled, like Jordan through the ing the initial step in this work by proclaim Promised Land, the River of Rivers, here ing, on the 1st of June, 1849, the organi as majestic in its northern youth as in its zation of the Territorial Government, and more southern maturity. consequent extension of the protecting arm "Emphatically new and wild appeared of law over these distant regions. Since that every thing to the in-comers from older day how impetuously have events crowded communities; and a not least novel feature time! The fabled magic of the Eastern tale of the scene was the motley humanity par that renewed a palace in a single night only tially filling these streets — the blankets and can parallel our reality of growth and painted faces of Indians, and the red sashes progress. and moccasins of French voyageurs and "In forty-one months the few bark-roofed half-breeds, greatly predominating over the huts have been transformed into a city of less picturesque costume of the Anglo- thousands, in which commerce rears its American race. But even while strangers spacious warehouses, religion its spired yet looked, the elements of a mighty change temples, a broad capitol its swelling dome, were working, and civilization, with its and luxury and comfort numerous orna hundred arms, was commencing its resist mented and substantial abodes; and where less and beneficent empire. nearly every avocation of life presents its 120 MINNESOTA Histofy appropriate follower and representative. In of St, Paul, The legislators are obliged to forty-one months have been condensed a traverse pathless forests to reach the capi whole century of achievements, calculated tal; and it is worthy of record, for future by the Old World's calendar of progress — reference, that the member from the French a government proclaimed in the wilderness, half-breed settlement at distant Pembina, a judiciary organized, a legislature consti was almost a month on his way from his tuted, a comprehensive code of laws digest home to St. Paul, to attend the last session ed and adopted, our population quintupled, of the Legislature; and his conveyance was cities and towns springing up on every a sleigh and dogs! ^^ A few years hence the hand, and steam, with its revolving wings, Pembina legislator may make the journey in in its season, daily fretting the bosom of a railway coach in twenty-four hours. the Mississippi in bearing fresh crowds of men and merchandise within our I REMAINED a couple of days at St. Paul borders." and its vicinity, and then started on a visit Yet all around this nucleus of a powerful to the Indian in his native condition. Be commonwealth is the wilderness and its fore ascending the river to the Falls, I went pagan inhabitants. Across the river we can up a beautiful clear stream that enters the see the Indian in his wildness and freedom Mississippi two miles above the capital, to upon his own soil; his canoe is darting in visit Fountain Cave, a remarkable cavern every direction upon the waters, and his out of which this tiny river ffows. The whole squaw, with her papoose upon her back, scenery was exceedingly picturesque. The is mingling with the crowd in the streets entrance to the cave is an arched vault of rocks, about twenty feet in height, and twenty-five feet in width. The entire rock " Tliree legislators from Pembina traveled to St. composing the level ffoor, the margin, and Paul by dog team for the session which convened in January, 1852. Norman W. Kittson was a mem the roof, is of pure white sandstone. We ber of the Council, and Joe Rolette and Antoine lighted torches at the entrance, and fol Gingras served in the House. Clarence W. Rife, lowed the limpid stream from chamber to "Norman W, Kittson, A Fur-trader at Pembina," in Minnesota History, 6:249 (September, 1925), chamber for about seventv rods, when the DETAIL from Hoeffler's water color of St. Paul in 1849 t0»' ., .^J>. Autumn 1952 121

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and moccasins of French voyageurs and half-breeds . rising prairie stretching away westward to or lies stretched upon the grass in the cool shade
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