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Materials and technology for sportswear and performance apparel PDF

358 Pages·2016·17.78 MB·English
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Engineering - Industrial & Manufacturing VH ea ny kaes tr a m a n M Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance A Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel T designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, E R technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging I A textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins L S by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace A knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of N leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential D T properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This E C book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an H understanding of fabric behaviour and the characteristics of a functional garment, N and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment O comfort in its design and development. L O G The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development Y of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore F O smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the R use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel S product development; highlight the widely used fibre types for sportswear and the P O importance of fibre blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of R fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents T S research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the W performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health E and performance for a range of end uses. A R A A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, N this book D P E • Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear R F • Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements O R • Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an M understanding of techniques and concepts A • Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion N and design C E • Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products A P P A R E K22205 L ISBN: 978-1-4822-2050-6 90000 9 781482 220506 K22205_COVER_final.indd 1 11/2/15 10:50 AM MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGY FOR SPORTSWEAR AND PERFORMANCE APPAREL MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGY FOR SPORTSWEAR AND PERFORMANCE APPAREL Edited by Steven George Hayes Praburaj Venkatraman Boca Raton London New York CRC Press is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2016 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U.S. Government works Version Date: 20150616 International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4822-2051-3 (eBook - PDF) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained. If any copyright material has not been acknowledged please write and let us know so we may rectify in any future reprint. Except as permitted under U.S. Copyright Law, no part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmit- ted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers. For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright. com (http://www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged. Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Contents Preface ....................................................................................................................vii About the Editors ...................................................................................................ix Contributors ............................................................................................................xi 1. An Overview of the Sportswear Market ...................................................1 Sam Dhanapala 2. Fibres for Sportswear ...................................................................................23 Praburaj Venkatraman 3. Fabric Properties and Their Characteristics............................................53 Praburaj Venkatraman 4. Fabrics for Performance Clothing .............................................................87 Tasneem Sabir and Jane Wood 5. Composite Fabrics for Functional Clothing ..........................................103 Jane Ledbury and Emma Jenkins 6. Smart Materials for Sportswear ..............................................................153 Jane Wood 7. Applications of Compression Sportswear .............................................171 Praburaj Venkatraman and David Tyler 8. Impact-Resistant Materials and Their Potential ..................................205 Praburaj Venkatraman and David Tyler 9. Seamless Knitting and Its Application ..................................................231 Kathryn Brownbridge 10. Garment Fit and Consumer Perception of Sportswear .......................245 Simeon Gill and Jennifer Prendergast 11. Evaluating the Performance of Fabrics for Sportswear ......................261 Praburaj Venkatraman 12. Application of Pressure Sensors in Monitoring Pressure .................289 David Tyler v vi Contents 13. Body Scanning and Its Influence on Garment Development ............311 Simeon Gill 14. Eco-Considerations for Sportswear Design ..........................................327 Jennifer Prendergast and Lisa Trencher Preface Sportswear and other performance apparel arguably fill a specific niche mar- ket and at the same time permeate all aspects of the fashion business. It is easy to view it from the purely technical perspective of material specification and performance, but that would fail to appreciate the importance of the aesthetic in all its incarnations. To accommodate this it is usual to speak in terms of performance or leisure sportswear, functional or fashionable, tech- nical or consumer. But again, these distinctions miss the point: The aesthetic appeal of the track athlete’s apparel, or that of the firefighter, has a bearing on how they feel about wearing it, their performance and the way they are perceived by those around them. In this book, we bring together aspects of materials, performance, technology, design and marketing that we hope will enable the reader to bridge this gap in appreciation. To do this effectively, the reader should place the contents of this book within the context of a user- centred design and concurrent product development process, with an eye on design for manufacture. Several models exist to describe these methods; choose the one that speaks to you most. Crucially, this approach allows you to be focused on the user needs (be that an individual, a team, a service group or a demographic) whilst avoiding the inherent pitfalls of a sequential, opaque development process which has little consideration for the creation of the garment as well as its conception. A chronological list of chapters here would be superfluous, but it is worth emphasising the scope of this book and the breadth of knowledge and ideas brought to you. Within the text we move from the marketing scenario to the eco-friendly dimensions of sportswear and performance apparel via consid- eration of fibres, fabrics and fit with the inclusion of specific information on smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. The focus on fit incorporates research and practice into the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development. The ability to evaluate materials for use in sportswear and performance apparel is key, and as such permeates the whole text and is given specific treatment in the latter section of the book. The chapters serve a purpose individually. But as a whole we feel they consolidate all the important facets of materials and technology for sportswear and performance apparel. This book represents the efforts of many people from within the Department of Apparel (Manchester Metropolitan University) – past and present – without whom it could not have been realised: a heartfelt thanks to all. However, praise must go to Dr. Praburaj Venkatraman for conceiving and vii viii Preface driving the creation of this book. His inspiration and diligence have been pivotal in its completion. Both he and I hope you find the book informative, interesting and of use in whichever aspect of sportswear and performance apparel you are involved. Dr. Steve Hayes

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